derrickdj1
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Posts posted by derrickdj1
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Is there any role for a parametric EQ in the HT beside for the sub?
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There is a nice Aragon 200/400 watts/ch.in the garage sale section.
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You are blessed, Enjoy!
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RF 63 HT system or the RF 83 for some reason have a special appeal to me. I like having 3 woofers for a little tighter bass and the 1.25 tweeter is a nice size to fill in the Hi's. I wish one of those system had a horn like the Icon V or W. They just look great!
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http://www.aperionaudio.com/AperionU/spl.aspx is a good place to start for how to use the meter. Good direction should also come with the meter. I don't use my much since the meter and avr readings are very close.
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If you don't want real large speakers, one or two subs will fill in nicely to give that extra punch to your system.
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you can use a power center like the Monster Products if you can't find another way.
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Depends on the cost benefit ratio, you will need anothe amp, active x-o and the technical know how.
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I brought the BD which has a 3D/2D version for $19. If you like action, you will like this movie!
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Run the wire behind the wall, make a small opening in the wall for the wire and forget about the banana clips, surround should not be moved around much. I have not change my surround location for years with 3 different HT setups. So, pick the location carefully.
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Sometimes it take a little time to adjust to new equipment since our ears are biased to our old setup. I like to use EQ on a couple of my preset to bring out the instruments that I fill are lacking in SQ, for a particular genre of music. Autocalibration get's you into the ball park but, only you know what you really like. Sorry to hear that you are not impressed with your purchase. I would not think about another amp just yet!
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Check out -SHOOTOUT! Epik Empire vs HSU VTF-15H vs CHT CS18.1 vs Rythmik FV15... on our forum. It may give you some Ideal[^o)]
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Yes, the Underwold series are dark movies. I guess I am a fan of Kate B. and like all the action and special effect. This latest movie is around one hour and 20 min. so, not to long. It gave my subs a great work!
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Interesting thought, even though the signal is changed to the speakers before the signal. Maybe it should be termed semi-active bi-ampin[:#]. This also increases head room with the signals not being summed, and less distortion at the x-o.
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Even though it is active Bi-amping, you are using the speakers x-o. This maybe as good as true external x-o but, you don't have phase and time aligment issues to deal with and the cost of a pure external x-o. There is no learning curve with this particular way. The manufacture has done the x-o work for you. The R&D developed the x-o fit the drivers and the speaker box which is hard to beat for most us that are not that tech savy.
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I set mine to auto, but off is ok also.
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Thank for the reply Chris. I have seen other post where someone ask if they could use this type of option with the avr and most of the advice referred to it as passive bi-amping. But, since the Hi/Low signals are separated i did not feel that this was passive bi-amping with it's flaws. Now come the qiestion, with the stacked configuration of Klipscsh X-0, dose anything have to be removed from the speaker other than the binding post. I would think that the passive X-0 that has been designed for the driver and speaker cabinet would be better to use than making an active one considering the techical knowledge required to do it correctly. The benefit of using the avr this way should be more than modest. This should be a nice option for 2 channel listenings with some of the 7.1. or 9.1 avr's on the market providing that you willing to go down to a 5.1 or 7.2 for the rest of the system. This may be a shorter post than I first thought.[
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Bi-amping throug the avr using the surround back amp for the hi frequency and the front amp of the avr for the low frequencies. The DSP split the frequencies, coming out of the reciever into 2 separate signals, one for the hi and one for the low. This should be similar to using and active X-0 since it is before the speaker? Klipsch 2 way speaker use a stacked X-0, which is why the towers have 2 set of binding post, one for the hi and one for the low.. In theory, this should not be considered passive Bi-amping ? This set up should not have the hi and low frequency wrave summed together as passive bi-amp, resulting in more headroom, less distortion and most of the other benefits of using an active. X-0. Opinions appreciated. The jumpers between to speaker terminals has been removed in this setup.
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Sorry mustang guy, for catching you in the morning, lol. [
] For $3.99 at BB, I use them since they are cheap and no risk to the system. -
This is my personal opinion, so as not to start a war on the forum. Amps usually have a higher slew rate, so that voltage change can be accomodated and provide better dynamics. They also provid a higher available current and damping factor, which also relates to dynamics and control of the speaker cone. A typical speaker can go from 3-4 ohms to 20 ohm load/impedace during dynamic passages in music/movie. When this occurs the sound from the speakers get compressed or clips. For example when watching a movie, that cause for a 105 db peak and the amp/avr can't deliver it, the signal to the speaker is clipped to protect the amp in most cases. This is why lower or mid price avr may not be the best choice for demanding speakers. Yes, Klipsch speaker can be demanding inspite of their sensitivity. I like the ideal of a good avr with the option of pre-outs for the front stage. This is a more cost effective way to get the benefits of an amp. The aesthetics of your system also comes into play. Now with some of the newer Class D avr's, this become lesser of an issue since there are separate amps for each channel. You should recieve less fat bass, vocal and instrumental clarity. There is a lot more theory concerning amps. A good amp can last you 20-30 years. Buying on the used market makes a lot of sense due to cost / benefit ratio. The build quality is usually superior to an avr and heat is less of an issue, which lead to clipping, equipment burnout and lost of dynamics. Other will disagree, so in the end it is a personal choice. The avr offer the benefit of nice features compared to separate pre-amp due to the economy of scale, that stop smaller companies from upgrading formats and features as often. Not to mention the benefit of passive vertical bi-amping or electronic bi-amping for even greater benefits. Amp up the cost of a system and only you can determine wheater it was beneficial. This hobby is expensive, addictive and rewarding, lol.[
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This is not Disney, but Underworld the Awakening is a great movie for showing of the system.
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This is the science behind it: Y-connector
There are two formulas used to find
the db ratio between sound levels.
The first is used ONLY FOR
POWER (watts): 10 . log (P2/P1). This formula is used when comparing
Sound Intensity, measured in watts.
The second is used ONLY FOR
VOLTAGES (and SPL levels): 20 . log (V2/V1). This formula is for
voltage relationships and Sound Pressure Levels.
Using a Y adapter will
add two correlated signals. When you sum two equal correlated audio signals
(i.e., mono sources from sub output on the receiver/preamp), you will get
twice the signal level (A1 + A2 = 2A1, since A1=A2).
Therefore ,
since V2 = 2 V1 and the log (2) = 0.30103, it follows
20 . log
(2V1/V1) = 20 . log (2) = 6dB gain in voltage.
For power,
it will be
10. log (2P1/P1) = 10 . log (2) = 3dB increase in
power.http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=95817 , A Guide to Bass Management Part I
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I have the gain or volume on the amps at the max and regulate the volume with the avr. So, the RMS wattage is really never comes into play.
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Right now I am watching a BD at -20 on my SC 35 avr and my mains and front height speakers are using less than 1 watt 98% of the time. Transient peaks in the movie will increase the wattage up to around 2 watts. This is around an average listening level of 75 db, p[us or minus a few db not counting peaks. Only if the avr is at -10, which I don't use, will the wattage go up to near 20. That is very loud and not my usual listening level. For music the avr is usually between -30 to -50, so I am in no danger of blowing anything.
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] For $3.99 at BB, I use them since they are cheap and no risk to the system.
Need a new receiver
in Home Theater
Posted
Use Pay Pal if you buy the Marantz avr. if something funny happens in the deal, you can dispute it and Pay Pal will not turn over the money to the seller. A little hassel, but you will not loose your money.