snailtrax

I got the idea from another website. I don't seem to be able to post the link. I built one so far here https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/140483-my-lab-12-tapped-horn-build/ I don't know about the V3.0 from Brad Litz except to say that i don't think they are the same. My one so far kicks some serious azz. I will build another and stack it under the tv with the first one. Bill

I'd buy one.

Watts in is at 120 volts AC. Watts output is at a lower voltage, so according to Watt's Law or Ohm's Law, "I forget which one" it is very feasible. Google Ohm's Law and Watt's Law. They can explain it better than I can. Bill

You can cut the mounts or make some french cleats. There is info on each in this forum. French cleat. metal and wood, https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1 Google french cleat too. They cut the small metal ends real short, like one inch long and re-drill for the bolt. Bill

Want to buy a KLF or CF badge for a CF3 speaker. Pic below. Bill

I have read where the KLF-C7 Is better than an Academy and will timber match well with the Heritage line of speakers. Bill

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test

I have a 12 volt 5 amp power supply that I had used with this same amp before I changed all the caps. It worked fine before. I ordered a new cap and diode from Mouser on Tuesday. Hopefully It will be here for the weekend. Bill

Are you saying the sub cannot keep up with the speakers? You will get +6db gain from a second sub. Will your AVR just turn the gain down 3db on each sub? Here are my thoughts depending on that answer: 1. If the sub isn't keeping up, then mouths together on one side. That worked best for my two THT's as compared to flanking my center LaScala. 2. If the sub does keep up, but there are just very quiet places (standing waves). If that is the case, I'm with DrWho. You need to use positioning to reduce the severity of room modes by putting the subs in different locations. Either way, you will be flattening the bass response if the mouths are within 5' of one another (I remember Bill Fitzmaurice saying this). I think the sub keeps up just fine. I just figured two would add to the fun. Flattening the bass response is a good thing right? How would one know if the sub was not Keeping Up?

I see it now. Thanks, Bill

I thought the capacitor did not have a polarity. Guess that is what I get for thinking by myself. Are you referring to the C5 or C4 capacitor? And if either one, Do you think the capacitor is ruined? How do you tell from a picture? Just curious. Bill PS How do I determine what to replace the diode with?

Help. I changed the five caps and mounted the little amp on a piece of aluminum. When I powered it up, the diode D2 split, and cap C5 got very hot. Any Idea what happened? Bill

I finally ordered new mid and tweeter diaphragms and got them installed. The 250's sound great. They make excellent yard speakers and I ran them off of the tiny TDA7297 chip amp without mods. I am modding one of the amps I bought with parts that rhing recommended, and when I am finished I will do a build thread with a few pics. Bill

I used Duratex on my Lab 12 build, and it turned out nice. I used the plain white vinyl spackle they recommended to fill screw holes, and did not have any problems. I did notice that the Duratex did not cover as well, where there was any glue residue from the PL glue I used had been wiped off. This was on the inside and did not affect my results. I would use vinyl spackle to fill, and sand any excess glue spots off. Vinyl spackle shrinks as it dries, so you may have to do some spots several times. If you have a thick spot of spackle,just give it plenty of time to dry and check for shrinkage. If you need to use a primer, use the one they recommend. Bill

Just got home from work. Saw this thread and figured I'd reply. We had them tied in good, they weren't going anywhere. Plenty of room in those old Crown Vic's. You could hide a bunch of dead bodies in there . I loved the way they sounded, but needed the space back. Hard to displace my Chorus II's. The wires on the tweeters is plenty big enough, not much power going through them. You might want to clean and tighten the spades. Glad you like them. I'm happy with the deal. Bill

That never occurred to me Scrappydue. That makes the most sense. I will have to do some more research. Till tomorrow, Bill

How close to the wall can I get?

I know that would be ideal, but I have to live with what I have, and both are going in the front and stacked. It is really my only choice. I just wanted to possibly avoid trying all three possibilities because they are so heavy. Bill

The picture below shows where I have my Lab 12 tapped horn in my living room. The room is 20 x 20 and open on the left to the kitchen which is 20 x 13. The living room also has a 14 foot cathedral ceiling. I am wanting to build another one for more SPL. You can never have too much. I already have everything except the wood for the build. I was going to make one with a single fold and put it on the right side standing up, but have changed my mind. I want to make another one just like this one, and stack them below the tv. The question I have is, should I stack them with the mouths on opposite sides facing me, or should I put one mouth facing the wall or both facing the wall? I have read about one sub canceling the other out and want to avoid this if possible. I can't put it behind me because there isn't enough room. I have to live with what I have. The only place that will work is stacked under the tv. The subs will be powered by a pair of Bash 300 plate amps and a Pioneer VSX-1121-K. Questions and advice welcomed. Thanks, Bill

Alright rhing, you have started something here. I want to mod one of these TDA7297 amps similar to what you have done in post 170. I want the best recommendation you can give for capacitors and whatever else needs replacing. I want to get rid of the volume pot and replace all that I can with point to point wires. I am now going to ask a large favor. Can you draw up a schematic that a layman can understand. I would like to retain the original pc board for the visual effect. I am going to use two boards to mount everything like you did in post 170. I already have two of the amps that just arrived Wednesday. Thanks, Bill

Thanks for the suggestions. Bill

I know it has been asked in the past, but I have searched to no avail. I am looking for a demo BLU RAY dvd that shows off the best attributes of home theater with some good video scenes plus select cuts from some good movies with a lot of LFE. I have seen a few on that auction place, but I am looking for some proven recommendations.

Thanks for the input. No need to try this then. I'll stick with the small Lepai.

I want to try one of these, mainly out of curiosity, on my Lascala's. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=230-108 "Output power: 70 mW (32Ω), 12 mW (300Ω)" Can someone do the math and give a reasonable opinion as to the volume I should expect using an Iphone 3 as the source, and this headphone amp as the "Amp"? I am thinking it might be suprising. I have no idea what the output of the Iphone 3 is. I already have a home-made adapter made up to adapt an earphone plug to speaker terminals. I can see it now, just a AAA battery making all that music. I want to impress one of my "Car Audio" friends that believes the only way to get performance is with a pair of 1500 watt amps and power wires as big as your thumb. I already have a couple of small t-amps and am quite pleased with their performance. He hasn't seen the t-amps in action yet. I may be in for a disappointment, but I may try one anyway. Thanks, Bill