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Posts posted by jvs1670
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So ALK, Crites and now JEM are all on record saying the AL crossover basically sucks. If I don't want to change out the K-55M the only solution is the AL-3? JEM is saying you shouldn't just go with the AA crossover, but Crites says his AA or AL-3 are what he recommends. Does his AA account for the K-55M?
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"Klipsch Approved" updates apparently don't apply to the AL crossover. I checked with JEM by email a couple days ago regarding what can be done to improve the AL's in my La Scalas and he agrees there is no simple fix. Here is his reply regarding the AL's...
Next the AL network in your LaScalas. Well, this network really isn’t the best. The midrange driver attenuation is off by 2db. Then there is the issue of the notch filters. That is a whole discussion by itself so I will leave that alone at this time. This was all corrected in the AL3 network but to modify the AL to AL3 is expensive and would require parts no longer offered by Klipsch. They would have to be sourced from other vendors and I don’t get involved with parts other than what the factory can provide. This is the only way to keep a repaired speaker a genuine Klipsch product.
If you want to keep your LaScalas performing as-built, I can provide the Klipsch replacement caps. However, this doesn’t address the problems with the AL network. You can’t change to a AA network unless you change the midrange drivers from the K-55M to the K-55V. The M and V have different sensitivities and therefore need specific networks to operate properly.
So, you have two choices available that will still give you a genuine Klipsch LaScala other than just leaving them alone. First you can back-date the LaScalas by switching to AA networks and K-55V midrange drivers. I would recommend finding a good set of solder terminal K-55Vs. This would place your LaScalas in the ’81 to ’82 vintage. 1981 and ’82 vintage Klipsch speakers sounded extremely good. The only reason Klipsch changed things in the mid ‘80s is because the manufacturer of the midrange driver had some quality control problems and ceased production of it. Electrovoice made the K-55M but due to variations in design, a new crossover network was needed for this driver. The AL network was the result. The other option is up-date to the LaScala II. This is probably the most expensive route but it would get you essentially a 2018 speaker. You would need to change the crossover network, midrange driver and tweeter. Unfortunately, all that would be left from your ’86 speakers is the cabinet and woofer.
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On 12/26/2020 at 12:13 PM, Bubo said:
Open it up
Blow it out with compressed air, outside.
Check the DC offset with a multi meter on the speaker terminals, write down the numbers, which should be almost the same.
Take notes and photos as you go
Inspect all of the components for damage, leaks and hot spots
Inspect all of the solder joints carefully, for me this means in sunlight with a magnifying glass
I have found cracked and cold solder joints, that when retouched, the system problems disappeared.
Inspect the board carefully for hot spots, browning.
Inspect the caps for swelling and leakage, if you see any don't power on until replaced.
Hose down the inside of the RCA connectors with CRC, clean the outside with std chrome polish from any auto parts store using a clean rag. They can be really gritty.
Flush all of the switches and connectors with inexpensive CRC, allow to dry, then flush with Deoxit, repeat with Deoxit 24 hours later. Spread some clean rag or paper towels for the over-spray.
Check the wires and power cord for dry rot. Sometimes the old power cords have been bent one too many times and the broken wires cause all kinds of noise. May be a good idea to replace when you restore.
Take a thermal image, or without frying yourself put fingers on all of the output transistors at the same time too see if any are hot or hotter than the others. Same for the rest of the transistors.
Find the power trimmer varistors, and hose them down like the switches. Don't attempt to move the trimmers.
If everything is OK, the CAPS are beyond the Specified life, and should be replaced soon.
Also replace the power cord and DC protection switch if it has one, if not consider having one added. DIY sells one, and other on e-bay.
Post your inspection results here.....
That is one comprehensive list, thank you. Also worries me because I think I'm in over my head even attempting most of what you suggest. I'm gonna take a peek inside again but I think I'm going to have to get it looked at when all is said and done. Guess I don't mind spending a few bucks if it can be fixed.
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I have a HK 730, was getting some noise and scratchiness in the volume so I cleaned it with Deoxit, also sprayed the other knobs and in and around the RCA inputs. Worked great for awhile then would get random distortion as volume would rise. Sprayed again (not too much) and moved my speaker connections to the B inputs and it again worked great and sounded awesome. Now the distortion has returned when the volume goes up, not crazy loud but moderately loud. The distortion can be in either speaker.
Do I need a certain part, is it something I can do myself? Do I need to spray something I haven't tried yet? Love to hear some thoughts if you guys have any ideas. I love this receiver and plan to keep it forever.
Thanks
John
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Bought it new with the optional AptX Bluetooth module, both pieces were $350. Still have the original double box that Emotiva uses which is very sturdy, so shipping could be a possibility if you wanted to pay for that. No damage or scratches, works like new.
Asking $200 on CL, $175 for forum members.
Just listed it on Denver Craigslist. https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/d/aurora-emotiva-basx-pt-100-preamplifier/7247795842.html
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1 hour ago, Ceptorman said:
Good deal. What are your plans with it? Awesome center.
I've been using a Cornwall I for a center between my Khorns but to do that I had to split up the pair so one them has just been sitting collecting dust. I figured this Chorus II should be as good or better movies. I tried it briefly yesterday by watching The Patriot, the cannons, bombs and dialogue seemed awesome lots of depth and presence, think it does better than the Cornwall for that purpose. Very happy so far.
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Costco near me is selling them for $89.99, great deal if anyone needs it. Mine are still running strong for over 10 years.
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Gone.......Just got back home with it, it's in like new condition. Super nice guy he helped me out and gave me a few more bucks off.
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I'd pass for that price, had a couple pairs and wasn't all that impressed. Now for around 300 I think you'd be happy.
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in Garage Sale
On 11/8/2020 at 6:27 PM, Westcoastdrumz said:I'll likely get A LOT of S*** for this, but for what I paid for these Jbls, they KILL every klipsch speaker I have had that was over and under the price I paid for these NEW and shipped to my door... That being said, the cabinets and finish on these are as CHEAP as can be. Particle board and vinyl, but if you are careful with them, they sound truly incredible.
What JBL model did you get and what did you pay?
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On 7/30/2020 at 12:44 PM, EpicKlipschFan said:
that is a black speaker-------- the tweeter diaphram costs 40 --$------ GLWS
???? What kinda post is this? you did the same kinda thing on another one.....
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On 8/7/2020 at 8:50 PM, Blvdre said:
Yes, in the op's first post, they mention interest in building false corners.Sorry yea I guess he said he'd use acoustic bass traps to create false corners, in my mind that still sounds like a variation from the version built by PWK. Maybe that'd be fine.
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I can't see how Khorns would work at all in that room, you need corners or you'll need to build false corners. It won't sound right if they aren't used the way they are designed to be used.
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Klipschorn = Toe In 45 degrees...I think a little bit of thought went into that.
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Maybe 950-1200 depending on the finish and of course the condition.
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Wow Quartets are really going for that kind of money?! Had a couple pairs in the past and wasn't overly impressed especially for that kind of money. Make sure you hear them first before buying.
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On 2/23/2020 at 3:16 PM, mr clean said:
I heard they were on sale too late. I have been wanting a pair for awhile. I may have to pull the plug anyway.
JBL is selling factory refurbished 530's for $279.00 right now, bought a pair today...2 day shipping included for free.
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What is the Make and Model of the 15" powered sub? More pics?
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7 hours ago, glens said:
Just for kicks, have you tried wiring one of them "reverse" polarity?
Could be as simple as that, they should destroy those little JBL's with no problem.
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23 hours ago, Coytee said:
A lot of wisdom here!
Though I have no clue what I paid for my LaScalas.... let's call it $1,500. Bought them in 1979 so that's now 41 years so that's approximately $36/year. Heck.... I paid $6,500 for the Jubilee's and that now, was (I think) 2007 so that's 13 (yikes) years or down to $500/year.
Considering they are still worth about that much and you could get almost all your money back you really spent nothing...just tied your money up for a bit.
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On 12/7/2019 at 9:09 AM, Jvitti1970 said:
Went to ALK in my LaScala’s
1976 AA Crossovers ALL ORIGINAL
IM in Connecticut. Will ship.
MAKE ME A REALISTIC OFFERLove to hear a review and how you feel about the change. Been contemplating the same move, I have LS with AL crossovers and wonder if the difference is dramatic enough to spend the money. Let's hear what you think.
Thanks
John
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That info was here somewhere at one time...I'd like to know too.
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I used one in my THT LP, dimmensions of the cabinet is 18"x18"x60". BFM plans, it sounds awesome.
Capacitor Rabbit Hole. Just How Do You Measure?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I asked the same question. That's what I have too, so what is best? Honestly would really like to know.