ousig

my dad has the Elite SC-55 from last year and it absolutely ROCKS my old KLFs. you can watch a full movie at extreme levels and the receiver never gets more than slightly warm on the top. the class D amps run very cool and pump out big power. If I was to get a new AVR I would 100% look for the best Pioneer I could afford. the one mentioned above looks even better for the $550 price.

if you want to use it on your home system you need a dock that takes the digital bits from the IPOD and bypasses its internal DAC. the 100% best bang for your buck is to get the Pure I20 dock off of Amazon. It makes Pandora sound very pleasing - I also use Spotify and stream at 320kbps. the sound is spectacular and makes me realize how important a high quality DAC is in your components. Something I was not educated on before but I am a believer now. "For its analog output, i-20 again extracts the digital signal and uses its Cirrus 4353 hi-fi quality DAC and high-precision low-jitter clock to deliver true hi-fi audio performance levels with a -105dB signal to noise ratio, better than -93dB THD+N and 2V RMS audio output from its 24-bit 192KHz digital audio processor" http://www.amazon.com/PURE-i-20-30-Pin-iPhone-Speaker/dp/B0049MOK92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360722811&sr=8-1&keywords=pure+i20

can you put it in the shelf the receiver is in currently? swap them basically that would bring it up higher and closer to the height of your mains very nice though!

when you say "behind the wall" what does that mean exactly? why dont you run some romex wire and extend an outlet like speakerfritz said? That wire is made for in wall and full amperage - much safer vs buy EBAY! extention wires looking at your system I think you would be happier with it done correctly and not skimp out

those particular bose speakers are ok - I generally dislike most anything with that name on it to answer your question I have the Klipsch KHO-7 speakers outside under our patio cover powered from zone 2 on my Denon in the living room. We have the same speakers at our land and they can play very loud/clear like most Klipsch speakers. I would suggest if you want to play anything loud or have any bass, get a speaker with a 6.5 inch woofer

i look forward to hearing any real experience with this situation I have the same setup - our couch is against the back wall and I now have to suffer with way too small surrounds sitting on the window sill... to me the difference between the RF 62 and 82 is not THAT much and really not needed if you have a quality sub. Unless pushed very hard you wont know a difference. the RS42s should be fine either way especially since you dont have enough space behind the sitting area (same as myself)

do you have a 1 story where you can access the area above where you are wanting to mount them? if so you can add a 2x4 in between the studs behind the drywall to increase the support. 25 lbs of dead weight hanging down seems too much for me to be comfortable with. not like a picture that has very little outward force when hanging

in responce to the phase question - I always thought that with subs in the back of the room the phase should be turned to 180 or at least adjusted from 0. What frequency does the sub phase adjust? so it sounds like with new receivers no matter where your sub(s) are leaving the phase at 0 and adjusting volume or letting the receiver do it is probably the easiest unfortunately so far I have not had time to really crank the system up and use my SPL meter to tell the difference/improvement/lack of with running the 2nd sub. that is life with 2 little kids!

right now I have the sub out split then a y connector at each sub ok thanks for the tips, I will play around and see what I can come up with. the only way I can use both is have them placed like I do now - the 12 in the front left corner and the 10 in the back left corner and this one is kind of boxed in with a chair and end of couch. will run some frequency tones and find the peaks and valleys then try to blend for best overall even output.

a little background - I have had my Sunfire HRS12 for a year now and it is more than enough (is there ever enough bass?) for pretty much everything I can throw at it in my current situation. that being not having dedicated HT room and our current room/downfloor really isnt ever happy with trying to set up proper HT spacing and have 2 kids running around...it is basically a 13x16x9 room that opens to the kitchen/dining area, then to the entry/formal area. so only 3 walls. anyway I saw on craigslist a deal too crazy to pass up - a Sunfire D-10 (model before the HRS-10 but exact same specs so a solid $500-$800msrp sub) for $80 total! I had previously tried the HRS 10 in my room and was amazed with the bass it could put out. no matter if at low volumes or full blast very low bass. This thing simply sounds great and can put out amazing clean bass if asked. Honestly guys you all need to hear these Sunfire subs to understand. I say this because I know so many dont believe that great bass can be had from boxes this size. And the visual UNimpact is great if you cant dedicate the space for a proper SVS beast so back to my delima. I got the other Sunfire of course but I want to get them both setup if at all possible/reasonable. I have been reading on many sites and it seems that adding the 2nd sub isnt very easy, especially if you cant simply stack them in the same corner. with my room I cant, so currently I have my HRS up in the front left corner then I can put the D-10 in the back left corner basically in between a chair and our couch. So it is on the back wall. honestly the bass with only the HRS has been more than enough but there are certain spots in the area that have very little bass so I wanted to add the other to clean that up but try not to cancel out the bass in other areas. Could I simply measure the distance from the listening position to each sub/2 and put that into the Denon setup and then run some test tones to confirm the best gain level on each sub to make it the most even? Basically is there anything random I need to account for that I am not thinking of? right now I plan on playing test tones and measuring from a couple spaces with just the HRS playing. Then the same with only the D-10 playing. then the same with both playing and note the times where the bass isnt improved. Then should I adjust the gain or phase on the D-10 to "smooth" it out? I can post some pics later if needed

The problem with the older stuff is that they don't have subwoofer outputs. If you go that route, you'll need a sub plate amp that accepts speaker level inputs. how much older are you talking about? anything decent over the past 7 years will have all the in/outs you/he would need for a basic system. a higher level older receiver will handle a zone 2 (like mine) with ease. the main benefit for new receivers are the HDMI handling and other wireless options. I got the Apple airport express to stream (lossless) from my iphone to my receiver via Itunes or Pandora, etc and the PUREi20 dock for docked streaming (sounds amazing!) Basically the same as a new receiver will do but I spent $90 on the express vs $$$ on a new comperable receiver. food for thought! but I would look at CL for some used receivers that are 10 - 5 years old. I have seen some $3000+ Denon receivers go for $200....! i will say if you want HDMI handling then you should go with something 2 years or NEWER due to the recent changes and improvememnts. No care for HDMI? then save money and look used and good luck~!

I just got mine and I am amazed the sound via RCA output. I was always ok with thte Iphone headphone output but this dock brings a new level of SQ and for $90 it is a no brainer. listening to Pandora (what I do mostly via my phone) is a GREAT experience compared to the boosted crap Iphone output. music is so clear and clean I am very happy. now if you have systems that bypass the Iphone/ipod internal DAC then I can see why this product is necessary. other than that it is such a great sounding piece then I recomend to everyone here. i plan on keeping mine for a later nice 2 channel system

you look like a fake and smell like one. why would you ask how to do an exchange, the CAPS is really helpful also so how about you take them back to the authorized dealer and replace them - pretty easy. oh ya because your are a fake - go jump off a cliff idiot

Hey now - McKinney is the 2nd best place to live.[] Though I dont know where they got this random picture from...nothing like the McKinney I see everyday! http://money.cnn.com/magazines/moneymag/best-places/2012/snapshots/PL4845744.html I wonder what their AC bill is in the summer? http://money.cnn.com/video/pf/2012/08/20/pf-best-places-to-live-mckinney-tx.moneymag/index.html?iid=smlrr

right now other than a few channels you cant even get 1080P TV, how usefull is a 4k TV going to be anytime soon when it cant be broadcast??? right now many of these TVs cant play "real" 4k signals - only multiply the regular 1080 I or P signal - have to read the fine print. and how about a 4k movie? most current BluRays are 50gb dual layer disks - how can they get 2-4x the info on the disk? maybe we will go back to laserdisk days and have to pop in another disk 1/2 way through! ha I am just happy the whole 3d craze is hopefully over. I agree the OLED technology will probably gain more traction sooner and have the most improvement vs current technology. give it 10 years and hologram TVs will be here [H]

ok the key thing is to know how important the overall size is - if it is important at all you really owe yourself to listen to the Sunfire. If you have a very large room and are not worried about a big sub then this is not a "must have". You say you want accurate low bass - that is a high point for a sealed sub. one this powerfull will go MUCH lower and louder than most sealed subs. if you want the lowest bass (25 hz and below) loud (very uncommon other than some movie scenes) then you will probably want a large ported sub. sorry to be so wordy but a sub is the 2nd most important purchase you make in a HT (behind the receiver); some people say it is the most important. Knowing that I suggest looking at multiple options and trying them out in your house if possible. I give a [Y] for the HRS12

pretty open ended questions... what are you going to use it for? what do you have now to compare too? I have always been interested with the Sunfire subs because of their small size and insane output. My SVS was simply too much for my wife to look at anymore so I had to get something smaller. But I was used to the SVS output...so 1st thing I thought was Sunfire. I went to a local dealership and they have a very large theater room with Martin Logan speakers but no obvous sub in the corner. After watching a few movie clips and music I went searching for it and "it" was the HRS12...a small 13.5 inch cube filling the room up with massive clear and amazingly low/deep bass. I am also very happy with the sound at low volumes. where the SVS would almost sound off the Sunfire still puts out clean bass notes at low volumes. Because it is sealed I was nervous I would not get the very deep/loud bass the SVS could pump out but the Sunfire can easily keep up with my previous SVS Ok back on track. What price can you get it for? if you can get it for $600 - $800 I would go for it. BUT BUT BUT for that range you can get a much larger sub from a ID brand and have more stomach rumbling low bass available. so really goes back to what you need. if you need a smaller sub but want great output there is no other sub out there for $1k or less that will compare (that I have heard at least).

you mean running speaker level into the sub and from the same connection speaker wire to your Hersey IIs? if so yes that is fine - will take a minimal amount of power/signal for the sub

I am living a bit through you right now with your options and great room to listen in!!!!! (3 year old and 3 month old lower my ability to have audio fun....) I think if you live with the KLF series you will like and respect even more. I REALLY miss my KLF20s....our current house just didnt make since for them, but my parents HT loves them. My buddy has the 30s and like mentioned before we both thought the 20s have better overall sound (even bass). I really miss the punch of the duel 10s and duel horns. My current reference line seem to be a bit less "in your face" that I got used too with the KLF. But also our current setup is a joke for good HT sound. Just not enough room to let everything breathe. glad too see people are keeping the older lines in the news!

none of the reference lines have a mid horn like others have mentioned, with the mid horn that the Forte used (like my old KLF20s) I think the sound can be much better vs the new speakers with just 1 horn. I like my new speakers for what they are - the size is nice also compared to the KLF20s but the sound is different for sure. So my vote is to replace/repair the passive radiator on the Forte.

go to Home Depot and get a kilz a watt plug it into the wall then your amp into it to get some real #s. You will be surprised how little the amp will really draw under "normal" listening conditions.

what bitrate does Pandora stream at? i notice in the settings you can select "higher audio quality" but I cant seem to tell much of a difference. I cant imagine it being at 64kbps...it sounds much more like 128 or more. but MOG at up to 320 kbps is amazing

i would never plan on putting all of that equipment outside...like others have said either run a zone 2 (easy for audio) or some sort of way to get video outside if you must have most. But keep everything inside that you can. There are plenty of ways to get audio/video outside with keeping everything inside other than the speakers and TV. And most people who have flatscreens outside bring them inside when not using them - unless you have one specifically made for outdoors. I installed a system at my parents new house using the Pioneer SC-55 receiver (3 powered zones) and they use the Iphone/Ipad app for it to control everything no matter where they are. Many new receivers have this option (Pioneer, Denon, Yamaha and probably more) that way you dont have to worry about the annoyance of having to go inside to make any changes. or like pathos said - an RF remote eye would handle that all from outside.

yes that is sad - they had some big time car audio subs when I was in college...at least he is admitting the problems/issues/challenges maybe he can get hooked up with another current solid company

another way to look at it - you are wondering about saving maybe $200 for something that could last you maybe 10 years? I know you are looking for a "lower end" receiver but I would certainly spend the little extra to have some room to expand a bit if needed and you know you would be plenty happy with. The zone 2 capacity would be more than worth it to me. Another route is look for a used Denon (or whatever you like) on CL or ebay. if you do not need HDMI then you could find many great 3000 level receivers out there for $300 or less. again that just opens up another endless search...so the easy decision is get the 2112 for $350 an move on happily My Denon has been flawless for over 7 years and still does everything I "need" good luck and I am very impressed with what you have stacked up so far!