ousig
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Posts posted by ousig
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do you know the stated "contrast ratio" # for TVs is basically made up? it is 100% impractical to compare this number to another TV brand or display type.
if you question the plasma picture then I think you need to go look at some before you ask questions here. Plasma is known to have the BEST picture overall if you do some research. now of course if you try to compare the low end plasma vs a $2000 LCD then you may have a hard time but in general if you talk to a person that really understands flatscreen displays - plasma is the best picture. no longer do you have to worry about burn in, or a display that is not bright enough for a room. I have our 4 year old plasma in a room with 7 full size windows and I never have a problem. If you get a new plasma it will be even better.
as I asked earlier what is your total WIDTH max? depending on the TV the screen size diag will mean many more or less inches overall. The 1 thing about plasmas is the outside surround is thicker than LCD displays/ if you want a 55 inch display then LCD is your only option. plasma is not offered in that diag
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you mean 56'' wide total?
Plasma is by far your best bang for buck and best picture - while LCD screens can look very good, you are going to have to spend up to get a nicer model to come close to the base plasmas.
my parents just got a new 7000 series Samsung LED smart TV. like you I wasnt too impressed with the smart apps until I set their's up. It is very cool and can be very handly.
basically like computers TV prices are so low now and you dont have to spend $3k+ to get a good one like years ago.
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my dad has a Pioneer SC55 with my old KLF20s and the KLF center - they sound as good/loud/clear as I have ever heard them. We have played movies at full volume on the receiver w/o a hint of distortion and after about 20 minutes the receiver was barely even warm...it will be my next upgrade for sure
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you honestly think it is that much better than a new RC62II that you can get for around $400-$500 on the high end from authorized dealers? I cant imagine it being worth/performing double in 90% of all setups.
sure the visual wow factor is impressive but I cant see it being that much "better"
just trying to save you some $$$ - send me 10% if you like
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set your fronts to "large" and tell the receiver you do not have a sub then listen to them. Honestly to get those big speakers cranking you need about double the power you have. Of course they will play very loud and clear as is but if you want big bass you need big power. I mean look at your sub - you probably have 200+ watts at least to 1 speaker (sorry didnt notice your model). Your RF7s have 4 10 inch woofers...so do the math.
They will play plenty loud and keep up with any sub in the 60/80HZ and up but if you want to get bass you need more power or bi amp them.
I used to have the KLF20s and like yours they have 2 10 inch woofers. I had them hooked up to a 200 watt/channel QSC amp (real power not AVR power) and they could play extreme bass when cranked up loud - and very clear.
When I had them on my Denon they still had good bass but like you are saying unless I had it up nearly all the way on a bass heavy track the woofers did not move very much at all - just not enough power to get them excited. And that is a big reason I downsized...I just was not able to use the KLFs like they should be in my room/setup.
and also the "pure audio" setting will not only bypass the subwoofer but it will turn off any internal EQ where you may have the bass ticked up a little bit. So you are getting very little bass pressure from your AVR in this setting. That is why I say just run your normal setup, but remove the sub from the receivers output and put the mains as large - then report back
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yes somewhat - but the DJ/professional subs will hit much harder in the region that music and most bass lives. HT subs are designed to play down very low 20 - 25hz and just cannot keep up in the critical 40 - 80 hz region the beast DJ subs can
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the newest reference line centers do not use this anymore - both woofers play the same frequencies. if anything I do think the tapered array makes more since than not in a center because it should help avoid some of the frequency cancelations.
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it would sound just fine/great
the RC62 has the same drivers as the RF62 just a smaller cabinet and less bass responce. But with a sub that is not a problem because you will have them crossed over at 80hz probably anyway.
I say go for it assuming your space will let you utilize them properly
There are reviews that state the sound of a typical center (mid/tweeter/mid) puts out the best sound in vertical position vs horizontal.
real question is why would he have not 1 but 5!!! in a theater room not being used?
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most of the DJ subs dont go much below 40 hz but for music that is plenty - as you could tell by the sound. sounds like what you need is simply A LOT more energy in the 40 - 100 hz region and a couple big bass towers with 500+watts/speaker will do the trick. I personally like QSC amps for the vast amount of power you can get for the money.
the QSC amp I had in the past had regular RCA inputs like any other amp so I hooked it up that way
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right, but i originally didnt notice he was changing the horn also. I just assumed the KLF10 and KLFC7 used the same horn that the KLF20/30s used as a mid horn but to handle the full highs
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to determine if your amp is getting "choked" just get one of those meters I said earlier. 1st plug it into the outlet and the amp directly into it. run it through some tests and note the power draw and total power used after a set time. Then plug the conditioner into the outlet directly, plug the kilz a watt deal into the conditoner then amp into it. Run the same test and see
lightning strike to your house will blow everything no matter what conditioner you have unless you are very lucky. it is impossible to say exactly what will happen in that situation. small surges or fluctuations (if your area has major problems with it) the conditioner will smooth that out. but at the same time modern electronics are designed to run on slightly different voltage (not strictly 120 volts) and be just fine. and home electronics are not that sensitive for the most part.
go to a hospital and ask them how they have their equipment plugged in - you will see mostly they have a "hospital grade" surge protected outlet at least. you can buy these at HD for $30.
I can imagine some pros to these super expensive surge protectors but honestly like others have said it is just another way for companies to get $200 - $500+ of your money based on mostly marketing hype and something else pretty to put in your equipment rack.
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the KLF10s only have the 1 horn so makes since.
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you probably will still want a floorstanding speaker. are you looking for something shorter, thinner, less deep or all of the above? I moved from my KLF20s to the RF62II and even though they are basically the same height the fact they are 4 inches thinner really makes a nice difference. These go louder than I ever need them too so I am not missing anything there compared to the 20s
like also mentioned you may like the KLF10s but you do lose the 3 way design that the 20 and 30s have (something I am finding I really liked). The 30s are HUGE so you should not have too much trouble finding a smaller replacement
if you have a sub and can use a bookshelf there are tons of options also - look up at the top of the site and search all of the bookshelf Klipsch speakers including the discontinued models
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I am not an electrician, but I never exceed 450 watt/ 3.5 amp running all my gear on the high side of things. I hope some more knowledgeable members chime in.
you are correct - when I got my Sunfire sub with a 1000 watt amp I was interested in how much power it really was pulling since I have my Plasma, receiver, PS3, DISH box and some lights in the living room all on the same 15 amp circuit...
anyway so I got a "kilz a watt" from home depot and pluged it into the sub and with the sub really hitting hard it max got up to about 250- 290 watts. now it could have been taking more for very brief times that the cheap meter couldnt read but you get the point. during normal listening it rarely got over 50 watts and usually 20 watts.
the TV ranged from 350 - 450 watts depending on how much white was displayed. the 4 year old 50inch plasma really sucks in the power...
the DISH box was 60-65 watts no matter what - recording or not
my receiver with all speakers crossed over at 80HZ playing very loud surround sound got up around 190 total and over 250 playing full range but less than 50 playing full surround at "normal" levels
so basically unless I am really playing it loud I am only taking about (350 for TV, 60 for DISH, 50 for receiver, 30ish for sub) so roughly 500 watts total and that is with the TV.
I would want to have plenty of power to my speakers if I had a real dedicated HT room just for the extra dynamics for the sound. But in reality it is not needed
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why did you want to take if off?
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look for a 6.5 inch surround replacement on ebay or online? any should work just fine
not exactly the same but I replaced the surrounds on my 12 inch JL audio subs in my car and it was pretty easy.
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very nice, thanks for the reviews. when are you getting your new AVR?
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RF62ii - $800
RC62ii - $370
quintet surrounds - $50
Sunfire sub - $750
DenonAVR - $1000 (in 2005)
Samsung plasma - $1700 (in 2008)
I got everything from local retailers - better surround speakers would be great but cant happen in our current room. these are plenty good for now until we get our next house and I will make sure I have a good HT space!
I know Sunfire doesnt get any love on this site but if anyone is looking for a serious sub and needs a small one I will recommend this to everyone I talk too. Everytime people come over and listen they keep looking for the "other" sub or assume I have bass shakers on the couch - this little gem kicks butt and looks great.
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I was replying to QH post about the sound of a quailty high power sealed sub. I think to many people on here think the biggest/heaviest (ported) box is the only way to go. That Velodyne is great but at nearly 10 years old not quite sure I would drop $1000 on it...
and the OP never said anything about wanting reference bass levels in his whole room - he doesnt even have a sub at all currently "frankly I'm not looking for earth shaking crazy bass; just trying to get down around 20 Hz pretty cleanly"
any sub we have listed or even the lower SVS he mentioned would be a nice improvement. ideally he can try out a few to determine what works best in that large room
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to echo this statement I recommend trying out a Sunfire if you have a local dealer - I am more than impressed with my new one that replaced the SVS. it dig VERY low and really thumps hard and clean. all in a 13.5 inch cube...
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i used to have the SVS you are considering - while it was a great sub in a room your size a step (or 2) up in their line will really be worth it.
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yes the SW line
how much did you pay for it? my parents used to have the 12 inch model for many years - it was a pretty nice sub. not a big pounder like so many subs are today but plenty for a small room
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the C7 is the only center made for the KLF10,20,30 speakers
of course depending on your room you could use a floorstanding one but the C7 is more than capable of keeping up with the KLF30s
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ha exactly
I needed something to last through my college frat days - and sounded good at the same time. I went through/fried multiple pair of Polk Audio and Cerwin Vega speakers. It was heaven when the 20s lasted through whatever I put through them for hours off my QSC 200 watt/channel amp at full power.
Help me choose, RB or RF for my setup.
in Home Theater
Posted
how does the RC52 seem "too big"? do you mean sound or just physically?
if you mean sound then I really think you should be able to fix that expecially if your reciever has any of the common sound adjustments - what receiver do you have now?
for a small room like that you really will not get much of an improvement from larger speakers unless you improve all of the speakers and receiver. but there are plenty of authorized online dealers with great sale prices and plenty to be found on other sites if you want to try some different models.
if you got bookshelfs would you have to buy stands also? that will change the overall price vs simply keeping the RFs
I have read quite a bit and it seems that the design of these towers and so many other brands with their stacked woofers playing the same frequencies is not ideal at all for limiting horizontal cancelations at some frequencies. with that being said I would lean to you trying the RB51s to match the center and see how you like the sound (assuming it wont cost you more overall money) or keep what you have now. I wouldnt recommend downsizing the center any