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Everything posted by kapsnb01

  1. Thanks for the recommendation Schu, I'll have to see if I can find a pair of these to give them a try. How are they in mitigating background noise (airport, airplane, etc.)?
  2. I'll have to check out the QC-25 also, especially if noise cancellation is on par with the 35.
  3. Appreciate the responses so far. I've tended to stay away from in-ears because I haven't had a lot of luck with them. Owned several including a few Klipsch, Senheiser's, and others but never really had a pair that I liked. So, I guess I've focused mainly on over-ear's for this search hoping that I'd find a good pair that I really like. I do agree, the in-ear is more convenient for travel due to the size, but just have not had good luck both from a fit and overall comfort perspective (I must have weird ears).
  4. Hello everyone, been a while since I've been on the forum. Would appreciate your advice on a purchase that I'm contemplating. Recently transitioned job roles and will be doing a fair amount of traveling. I'd like to get a decent pair of noise canceling headphones that will mainly be used alongside my iPhone while I'm in an airport or on an airplane. In doing research, a lot of the reviews highly recommend (and I feel dirty for saying this...) the Bose QC35 and the Sony MDR 1000X cans. Both are wireless Bluetooth which I'd likely lean toward simply because of the lack of a dedicated headphone jack on the iPhone. I've listened to both briefly at the local BB and I'd probably lean a bit toward the Sony's as they were slightly more revealing than the "rhymes with blows." So, I'd appreciate advice, real world experiences, etc. For the use I described, what would you recommend, what sets should I be considering that I haven't listened to yet? Looking to stay somewhere in that $350-400 range or below. As always, thanks for sharing your wisdom... Brian
  5. To answer your questions... 1 - No. Biamping will make no difference with the passive crossovers. So, not really worth the bother. 2 - if it's setting your center at max down level then something isn't right in your setup. The center (or any other speaker for that matter) should not be getting set at the max value. You might try running the setup again? Are you using multiple positions in the setup or just the main listening position? As pertains to the RP-450...newer doesn't necessarily mean better.
  6. How did it compare to the first one?
  7. Cabs are the same. Drivers and crossovers are different.
  8. Agree with Dave upstream. B stock isn't a death blow...Klipsch isn't going to sell it if it doesn't sound to spec, but there's usually a small cosmetic issue leading to the B designation. I'd go check em out and at least give them a listen.
  9. Interesting... I'm with Dave, sounds like B stock.
  10. Like Bill said the RC-7 and also the KV-4 have 8" woofers.
  11. I disagree. Nothing worse than when sound pans from one side to the other and it's obvious which speaker is outputting it. I'm a big fan of timbre matching for a seamless sound stage. But that's just me.
  12. There's currently an academy for sale in the garage sale section.
  13. I'd probably stay away from the reference centers and go with an older type center between the chorus. Something like an academy, KLF c7, or kv4 may work out ok.
  14. Well said. Thoughts and prayers with you guys.
  15. As with any receiver question asked here, you're going to get answers based on what each of us has. So, you're best bet is to try and find somewhere to listen to those you have listed and pick the one you like best. Since you mentioned power isn't important, then simply pick the one with the features and sound you like best. Any of those listed should suit your needs just fine.
  16. 222nd day of 1994...most likely version 2s. That's a nice deal if they're in reasonable shape.
  17. Wow Youth. That is going to be one beautiful setup when it's all done!
  18. I owned the 667...it's fine for what it is and drove an RF62 system and a 3.1 CF3/KV4 system just fine. Not my most favorite receiver I've owned but no slouch either. Just don't expect to run at ear splitting levels and it'll be fine. Get yourself an SPL meter though. I was not at all impressed by their room correction software (YPAO).
  19. Was a great storyline for a meaningless game.
  20. That is a huge room... How stuck are you on wanting your speakers in wall? With a space that large, I think you're going to be disappointed with the in walls. Also...I think you're going to need at least a couple subs to fill that type of space. The used market will be your friend...and a DIY solution for the subs could really work well. Just my 2 cents.
  21. He dodged a major bullet at 39, but sounds like he's had a ton of health issues for a while. RIP
  22. What I've found useful... ESPN OpenTable Weather Channel Ticketmaster StubHub Yelp Just my 2 cents
  23. Any of the main brands will suit you fine. This question is asked a lot and it always ends with each of us recommending the brand or brands that we've had good luck with. Look for the specs and features that you want at a price point that makes you comfortable and each of the big brands will work just fine. Your room is on the large side, so your bigger issue could be whether your speakers and sub will perform well enough to fill the room. That will be up to you to decide after you get things hooked up and dialed in. Best advice, best to spend your money on the speakers that will perform best first (even if it's only a pair of towers to start) with mediocre electronics than to get state of the art electronics with speakers that can't do the job. Just my $0.02.
  24. Great post by GP...agree whole heartedly with him and scrappy. Best advice I got on this forum was to put your money into speakers and sub first, electronics later. You'll save a ton of money with the right speakers out of the gate. Electronics come and go as technology changes. Good speakers last a very long time.
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