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Yankee Frank

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  1. Link for wire is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975M7X3L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I (obviously) have a lot left over. PM me your address and I will send you plenty to do yours and be happy to save you some $$.
  2. Here is my first Chorus 1 re-capped crossover. Let me know if you see anything that doesn't look right, before I put 'em in!
  3. Received mine from Jim at JEM and in the process of doing my Chorus now. I like the idea of going Klipsch supplied parts!
  4. https://rochester.craigslist.org/ele/d/rochester-klipsch-kg4-vintage-speakers/7434922767.html No affiliation or interest.
  5. Turned out well! Looking forward to seeing the Chorus... I have almost received all the components I will need.
  6. I am with you on this, but after getting his email I have resigned myself to doing it myself. Just need to wait for the parts to be in stock again.
  7. Per JEM: Shipping services today are extremely rough on the packages and getting a claim for damages settled is an experience you want to avoid at all cost. Due to this situation, I am not offering installation service for the networks that contain circuit boards.
  8. Thank you. Never saw or heard of a PCB configured that way.
  9. I already tried JEM, Jim doesn't want me to ship PSBs because the shipping process has damaged others that were either headed to him or back to the customer. Now, after reading a lot of other posts on the topic, I most likely will be buying their capacitor kit, since it is Klipsch approved. Unfortunately their Chorus capacitor kits are out of stock until (about) late Feb. Put the crossover back in today until then, I can't listen to the JBL 530s another minute longer if I don't have to! Loosening the autotransformer made crossover extraction and re-insertion MUCH easier and I was also able to install the port tubes from Parts Express while I had the 15" K48 out. I grew a thin union collar on our 3D printer at work to couple the 2 halves.
  10. Did you use the 1.8 uF and 6.8 uF Clarity instead of the 2.0 and 7.0 uF?
  11. Thanks for the alternative idea Tiger! I will think about how to un-sandwich the sandwiched boards to possibly achieve the results I am looking for. Not sure if Chorus II had the same sandwiched configuration as shown in the Chorus I photo.
  12. Thank you oldred. I do have a great Weller soldering station and the components I need will be ordered this weekend. I will work on my soldering joints!
  13. Hoping to get some help and insight for re-capping my Chorus. In the process I want to take out the printed circuit boards and mount the components similar to a Heritage type arrangement on a separate board. While I have the schematic, and believe I understand it, I am wondering if the existing PCBs are printed in a "zone" type arrangement, vs multiple layers and connections (see attached photo.). It looks to me as each "zone" has a non-conductive boundary around it and then various wires are soldered into that common area to connect the required components. So my questions thus far are these: 1) Is this what is really going on with regard to the PCBs? (zoned areas) 2) Is there a preferred type and gauge of wire I should use on the crossovers? 3) Has anyone else here done this for first generation Chorus before, and if so, would you have any pictures or tips to share, please? Like I said, I believe I understand the schematic (although I wish I had a "road map")and have the skills and equipment to do the labor. I just want to understand the current configuration better so I do not to mess this up! I will be taking the old inductors and autotransformers off off the PCB's and plan on replacing the capacitors and resistors. Once I have completed the first one, I will post another picture for review to make sure I didn't cross any wires! Thank you for any advise or tips you might have! YR
  14. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154673683554?hash=item2403451c62:g:YgIAAOSwBhZhX1T7
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