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grindstone

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  1. OK @Flevoman -- got some info for you, please check your PM's. If you're not a DIY'er completely comfortable with ~500VDC, my advice would be to stay out of there. If they run right, I'd just listen a while and get used to what they do. No help on value, sorry.
  2. That was very much a serious amplifier and you are fortunate to have them. I just lost 2+ hours trying to find (what used to be easy to find 20 years ago) info on the thing. I still haven't found Ron's circuit, but perhaps someone who built one will see your post in time. What I remember is that Ron and Jack (Electra-print) worked together to hatch that thing based on Jack's 45 DRD circuit. Jack spent a bunch of time finding input tube operating points that were complementary in distortion to that of the output stage, and the magnetics are all custom, all first-rate and wont be wound again (Jack retired). If there is specific information you seek, it may be gone unless you are lucky enough to correspond with the right person who perhaps built a kit. I've never seen a gutshot except yours so I can't say from the pics (thanks for those, BTW) if that's Ron's work or not--perhaps other Welborne owners may comment. It looks minimal because it is minimal--and you may be sure it was quite well-engineered for the given set of goals. IMO, that's the zero-NFB SE config to do the least damage to signal on the way through an amp--but it needs a pro winder with fast test gear to keep all the parasitics well out of band (and as an old RF guy, audio was/is slow to Jack). Personally, I'd expect the listening report to be as yours sounds (thank you, also, for that)--clear and more sparkle, basically. I'd expect the harmonics out of that thing at 5-700mW or whatever you feed Lascalas to be very much different than many other low-watt SE amps. As zero NFB SE amps go, a direct-coupled amp _should_ be cleaner. My opinion only, but something like that is about as good as it gets for low-watt zero-NFB SE amps. Twenty-some years ago, kits were $1100 +/- 200 a pair, depending on options/wood/tubes/caps/blah blah...I remember because I didn't have the $1200 then Congrats. This was Jack's, but I _think_ (?) Ron's is supposed to have a 6N1P input tube.
  3. Just popped-in to say I'm with Scott -- glad people are still building and posting. There must be a pile of threads out there for these type things by now if people want to do variations on the basic theme (ask 5 people, get 6 opinions). I think what you did is important in keeping it all accessible w/o deep-diving, Henry. There's not much of that around anymore and there are plenty of places for the other thing. This thread has a good vibe carrying enthusiasm and encouragement so you've succeeded. i've not met a "tube diyer" that hadn't at least once hacked on a console carcass to get some ear-time on something of the ilk.
  4. Deep and sincere well-wishes to all. Brandon helped me with contact info for Gil as well. Much too young to go.
  5. Hey Jim, just tripped-over a '58 Mar Hi-Fi blurb about parts to either corrob or mess with your ointment. FWIW & thanks for fighting entropy.
  6. Make sure that if any wires have to cross anything else that there's space and crossing happens at right angles where possible. Also try it from a temporary extension cord to an outlet on a different leg of your electrical to rule that in/out quick, too. World is full of hash...
  7. They're unique and they're exactly what retired guys are supposed to do (because there's no time for it before then). Thanks for posting the updates. I never did buy one of those Japanese saws and, courtesy of your report, I now know why I wont.
  8. Welcome JPH. Your geezer-cred completely blends here, however timely
  9. Hey where is the TOS? I just went looking and struck-out. If it's updated, I need to read it.
  10. We dare you to put them in corners and listen to them if you haven't heard them :)
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