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Everything posted by DMH

  1. There's something to learn with this thread and it's not that anyone has made an effort to blame or accuse the seller of wrongdoing. More to the point is that a potential buyer is responsible to do his homework to determine the validity of the seller and the product, this is especially true in these days where internet fraud is prevalent. The common legal term to describe the buyer investigating the transaction prior to the sale is labeled as caveat emptor or "let the buyer beware." There are many tell tale signs that would call for the buyer to exercise caution and to further investigate. Probably the simplest of these "red flag" warnings would be observing some aspect of the item for sale or the seller that's doesn't make sense. In other words, something that's out of the ordinary needs to be looked into or more closely examined. Examples would include a seller that didn't have a history of sales on that particular site, no positive feedback if the site provides for comment from previous buyers or a price that's too good to be true. There are numerous other examples taken from actual situations where fraud was successful. One that comes to mind is a seller requesting to meet in a remote location to compete a cash transaction. It's difficult to imagine a potential purchaser not seeing this as something "out of the ordinary". Much to the unsuspecting surprise of the trusting buyer could be the end result of getting held up at gunpoint and separated from his hard earned money or much worse. I understand that in Los Angeles this type of scam is so common that police dept. buildings have been designated as official "safe buyer zones" where parties to internet sales are encouraged to conduct transactions. In this particular sale there are a few things that are out of the ordinary and worthy of a closer look; the less than reasonable cost of the item, a poor level of communication from the seller, the seller requesting "local sale only" but apparently unwilling to have someone inspect the item in person, not posting the item in the garage sale area of this forum despite knowing of its existence and the seller stating that there are many other people in line for the product even though many previous attempts were made to arrange for an on-site inspection, the sellers history of posting once or twice and so on... None of these things are direct evidence of any fraud. But in the mind of a justifiably suspicious buyer they are data that should demand one take a closer at the situation in order to make an educated decision about the validity of the sale. In the matter of internet sales one is wise to assume the viewpoint of being overly suspicious. The cliché, "if it seems too good to be true... It is probably a fraud" is an appropriate guiding principle for internet buyers to assume. Caveat emptor!
  2. Thanks for posting a reply! Apparently the confusion is cleared up. Just a suggestion for this sale and other items that you may have, it's common for forum members to initially list their items for sale in the "garage sale" forum and state that they prefer to do a local sale and then post it elsewhere if you fail to sell the item to a fellow forum member. This provides other forum members in your area the opportunity to purchase the items prior to the sale being offered on other sites like Craigslist.
  3. He replied to my most recent PM where I asked him "Are you for real?" and pasted a link to this page. Cully's answered: "yes! very real - not a bot. I prefer to sell local to avoid shipping! There's been a large interest in these cabinets locally" I suggested that he answers up (on this page) and defends his reputation. I'd personally be interested in clearing my name instead of leaving questioning doubts in the minds of other forum members.
  4. "If it seems too good to be true... It is probably a fraud."
  5. In another thread this same person wrote that he was interested in selling these LSI bins. I sent him a PM and he initially answered but has since failed to reply... Just bad manners, or perhaps he has nefarious intentions? https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/profile/75086-cully/ I just sent him a pm with a link to this page. He should have the opportunity to defend himself... We'll see if he answers up?
  6. Looks like good stuff! It has been "received with excitement by those industries that specialize in painting dumpsters and storage containers". https://fmipaint.com/direct-to-metal-coatings/
  7. It looks like the rust is very established. Sand blasting would be the preferred method if you really want to do a pro job, most likely you that's not what you had in mind. The inexpensive alternative is to treat it with a "rust converter" after using a heavy duty wire brush attached to an angle grinder to remove much of the flakey surface rust and old paint. There are many different brands of the stuff for sale that are all basically the same. Here's an example: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html https://www.eastwood.com/4-5-in-angle-grinder.html https://www.amazon.com/Makita-Piece-Grinders-Heavy-Duty-Conditioning/dp/B01869GKBY After that a good sanding with an orbital sander like a DA (dual action) using progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Start with 60 grit and work up to 300 or so... I'd then use a brush to apply a couple of coats of enamel paint. A brush or roller is the way to go with tractors and farm implements when the surface is rough and you aren't interested in a "show car" quality paint job. Rustoleum makes a farm equipment enamel (and a primer too) that's available at most any Home Depot. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-1-qt-Farm-Equipment-John-Deere-Yellow-Gloss-Enamel-Paint-2-Pack-7443502/202552473?MERCH=REC-_-PLP_Browse-_-NA-_-202552473-_-N In the past one could purchase original decals for John Deere, Ford, International Harvester and other manufactures. A good finishing touch!
  8. Thanks! Resurrected from severe plywood delaminating water damage, misused, mistreated, abused and left for dead. They were literally trashed! The grills were made from raw materials. Paint is acrylic urethane "hot rod" flat over feather fill polyester primer.
  9. http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/ http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/karma-ss-speaker-kable/
  10. DMH

    Going on the Lam

    The artificial intelligence monster has read these posts, traced our locations and we should expect to picked up by the "soylent green" garbage truck sometime today.
  11. That rack is looking great! Very well done! I'm can't wait to see the completed project. I had the same thoughts about "why audio racks are so expensive" when I built my 2-channel audio shelf. There wasn't a shelf on the market that was exactly what I needed, most of them were flimsy and way too small, so I built my own. I used hard maple and stainless steel tubing for the supports (without the electrical components it weighs 165 lbs). More than enough mass and it's wide/deep enough to resist/dampen normal room vibrations.
  12. DMH

    Going on the Lam

    Hey Steve! The same thing happened to me a couple of years ago. My work computer was turned on but in sleep mode. I mentioned to my son that we needed eggs. When I woke the computer there were numerous adds for eggs in the right margin in the Yahoo page. After that I got a VPN (https://virtualshield.com/) and haven't been bothered with this sort of nonsense again. But, it makes me wonder what would have happened if I was joking around about something controversial, like wife beating (not that I do that), would I get a visit by the police or a swat team breaking down the door? Unfortunately, this is a sad commentary on these times because it appears that 1984 has indeed become reality.
  13. The first gen horn material is some sort of plastic that's very porous, brittle and as already stated, very sensitive to heat. Standard epoxy glues work fine to bond cracks and does not dissolve this base material if you can manage to get it into the cracks. Thin CA or cyanoacrylate glue works wonderfully in the hairline cracks where epoxy cannot be forced in. These glues are easily available at any hobby shop or woodworking supply store. Besides the glues, standard body shop methods and materials work well to refinish the surface of these horns. An experienced body shop man would make the job look too easy. But, if you go through all the work and expense to repair the cracks and resurface the first generation horns, you still have a defective horn that's susceptible to heat warping because of the poor choice in plastic used in the original manufacturing process. Not to say repairing isn't an option. If you have the time, tools, know-how, experience, materials and willingness, then by all means go ahead and repair them. As long as you're at it, the entire outside of the horn could be covered in laminated fiberglass resin and cloth to prevent further warping. It's sorta like the DIY'er that devoted many months to restore a 1970's Chrysler. After all the work, time and expense - all he has is still is an old Chrysler that was never worthy of all the time and expense put into the restoration job. People also have different standards of aesthetics. I personally can't have a set of warped K-402's in my listening room, the rough demeanor would bother me. Heck, these horns in brand new condition generally rub the wife the wrong way just because of the outlandish proportions. Add a horn surface that's all warped out of shape and I'm pretty sure most married men don't have spouses that are that understanding. I wouldn't mind a set in the workshop, except it gets much too warm in there. Another option is to repair the cracks with epoxy and build a nice plywood cabinet with a grill and forget about it. There's a third option! Did you know that a sales rep of Klipsch Inc. will sell you a set of brand new replacement horns for a very reasonable cost if your horns are really 1st generation? The sales are Roy Delgado approved, he took full responsibility for the defective 1st generation horns that I purchased (at top dollar) from an unscrupulous long time forum member. So I would imagine that you too can purchase just the horns, no drivers or stands at a considerable discount.
  14. Jim Gregory can you post a photo or two? And are your horns first or second generation versions? I've repaired and repainted both types with great success. There are quite a few pre-existing body shop techniques that work great to repair or refinish these 402 horns. About my 1st gens melting, maybe melting isn't the best choice of word, warping would be closer. I suppose if you set the things in the sun on a 90 degree day they'd literally melt.
  15. The right stuff: Nelson Pass' droolworthy parts stash!
  16. In this episode - Nelson Pass talks a little about the Amp Camp DIY amplifier.
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