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NBPK402

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Posts posted by NBPK402

  1. I have 1 that I have owned for about 1 year (but only used for a couple of months due to my system is not completely made yet), in very good condition... I believe there is a little smudge or minute scratch on the top (I say I believe because it is boxed up ready to ship). It comes with all the MINIDSP XLR adapters, power cord, extra blocks for screw terminals,, and a remote too. With this box you can use it as a (8 channels input, and 8 channels for output...which means you can use a max of 8 in and 8 out. If you do 2 4 way speakers you are maxed due to 8 outputs used) crossover and also for Dirac (8 channels max). Dirac license and crossover license are included...all you will need to do is register with MiniDSP, and give them the serial number and they will transfer it from me to you.

     

    I have 2 of these, but at this time I only need 1 (I purchased 2 because I was going to use them both for 5 channels biamped and for Dirac, and I am using a XiIica xp4080 for my front 3 channels, and the other channel will be used for subs down the road. The 2nd one is. Ot being used, but will be used for my surrounds once they are done. I have almost $1200 invested in one after all the options, US CUSTOMS fees, and shipping, plus I had to pay an additional $200 (so $1400 total) on top of that to get one to Mexico. I have a mail courier in Laredo that will deliver from Mexico to Laredo, and then ship it to the buyer.

     

    I am asking $700 plus shipping from Laredo and PayPal fees. Offers and trades considered. 1154069652_othersidewithsomesmudgesontop.thumb.png.ec8e5614088e28588acea26bff5ebc08.png194538930_nicknotzoomedin.thumb.png.a46bda71aa8334c355f9a6d8a90f12f7.png

    • Like 1
  2.  The UB820 looks to be very nice.  The UB9000 looks even nicer, but out of my cost range.  I also see a 420 and a 150.
    I read somewhere that the 9000 and 820 have identical video...the 9000 has better audio than the 820 (I believe the better audio is for stereo audiophile use(.

    Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk

  3. After all the reviews and help on here, I think the UB820 is the player for me.  I can buy new for under $500, so fits the budget nicely.  The ub820 had 2 hdmi out’s, so why can’t I run and hdmi out to the tv and another out to the marantz?
    You can...you run the 1st hdmi cable to the TV, and the Audio only hdmi to your AVR.

    Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk

  4. The picture quality of the Panasonic is incredibly good on my LG OLED 4K 77". I sold my 203 for more than I paid for it used. The only thing I'm missing is the ability to play SACD's (5.1 and 2 channel), I only have a few dozen of those, so I have a cheap Sony 700 to take care of that in another input.
    I have a Pioneer bluray that I can play and rip my SACDs to.

    Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk

  5. 20 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

    Well, I'm late to the party but that's nothing new.  I've pretty much been a class AB guy all my life or at least since I've been into audio which has been a while.  I can't comment on the original ncore amps but i recently purchased an amp with the Purifi modules.  Im absolutely in love with it. The way it controls the woofers is nothing short of amazing.   I wasn't expecting that.  The micro detail it reveals it the recordings was a nice surprise as well along with the dead silent background.  I'm impressed to say the least.  No way I'd characterize the sound as dry or sterile.  The amp came with the option to return for a refund.   No way I'm sending it back.

    From what I have heard the class D amps are best at bass.

  6. I am currently working on some 2' cube synergy horns with 2 15" Celestion woofers. I currently have them installed in a pair of k402 MEHs, and the performance was so good, it gave me an idea...what if I make another horn 2' wide x 36" high and the same depth as the k402? Now the idea is 2 put 2 15" Celestions on each side of the horn (stacked on top of each other), and then 2 stacked on top of each other on the throat of the horn. Then run the ports as normal with 2 oval ports per woofer. The rear area where the compression driver normally would go would need to be 6" wide instead of 2" wide....with 2 slots side by side or 1 large port that would, give the same compression ratio  as the MEH ports do. By going this way I would have 6 15" woofers for each MEH, and I am assuming 6db more output at 20Hz with a total of 8 woofers per channel vs 2. 

    I came up with this idea when I saw a DIY sub that Pass had made that was an open baffle...with a stack of woofers on each side feeding a "U". I kept looking at it and how similar it was to my first OB k402 MEH. I would not go OB, but enclose the wood horn the same as my mini MEHs will be, but instead of 24" high...make it 36" high. This would then put my Mini MEHs at close to ear level, and make them closer to being flat from 20hzto 20khz (with over 100db efficiency for 20hz to 20khz). I could also just make the sub with 2 or 3 woofers and get a 3db increase and take up less height.

    I do not have the software nor do I know how to calculate the outcome...just going by the performance of my MEHs, and adding 3db for every doubling of the number of woofer drivers.

     

    Ideas, problems, comments?

  7. So is Klipsch using AudioQuest wiring now?

    I remember back in 1981 when I got my first pair of La Scalas (Brand New), i removed all the wiring and replaced it with 12 gauge Monster Cable and we def heard a difference. I believe that wires can make a difference, but I believe that the differences in wire are because of Impedance, Capacitance and Resistance. I have some MilSpec Silver clad wire i have been wanting to try out, but I need to use a lot of wires connected together to get up to 12 gauge...from 20gauge. LOL

  8. On 1/1/2022 at 9:39 AM, Supersteff said:

    Hi Ron

     

    Sorry, did not sea your post until now.

     

    I must admit that I do not have a finished plan for the attachment of the second flare yet, and I am still far from building a horn. I am stil in the planning and preparation, trying to figure out where to start.

     

    But if I do understand your question right, you want to extend the tractrix-curve of the second flare all the way out to 90 degrees, and by so extending the whole horn.

     

    I think the idea makes sense

    You could make two frames, an outer one extending the tractrix-curve, and an other one screwed on from the back, clamping the K402 horn between them? Does that make sense?

     

    Happy new year 🙂

     

    Steffen

    That is a good idea!

  9. I will tell you one thing...my old projector did not look dim to me when it would be over 2k hours, but when I replaced the bulb it obviously was very dim. We become accustomed to stuff over time and do not notice it geting dim. One thing you could do is to look at one of the inexpensive ultra short projectors. I have seen some under $1k that they appear to have a great picture.

    • Like 1
  10. On 11/12/2021 at 2:06 AM, Supersteff said:

    Hi Tweakin

     

     

    I did ask Chris the same question some time ago in this thread, and Chris did answer it back then. You have to go back and find it your self, I have lost track of where it is, its in the last third I guess.

     

    I have decided to build my horns about 53 inches wide, as that is as big as I can accommodate in my living-room. It´s actually about where Chris estimates the (meaningful) limit to be, 60 inches I think he mentioned. Meaningful in respect to your/most living-rooms Schröder-frequency. Directivity-control makes sense as long as the reflections in the room behave like billiard balls, and that is the case above Schröder-frequency, below that frequency room modes (standing waves) are dominating. That is how I understood Chris in regard to size.

     

     

    I have followed this for some time now, and there doesn´t seem to be a commercially available horn alternative to the K402, so building a horn based on Bill Waslo´s spreadsheet is the second best option as I see it.

     

    I have decided to build my horns in two sections. The primary horn (first expansion) with all the drivers, and a second section (second expansion) for the outer flare/second flare. In that way I can get my horns through the doors in my house, and it will be less heavy to transport! And I can experiment in steps, so that I can start with straight (second) flares and later build som tractrix-like flares. 

     

    I hope that helps.

     

    Steffen

    How do you plan on attaching the flare... I ask this because I am thinking of extending mine to give me the flare all the way to the stock horns flat front outside edge. The only think I could think of was to make a picture frame and route the inside to match the flare, but then where and how do I attach it temporarily? 

  11. I would get a new projector. I am sure you can get a better projector now for around $1k... I think you can even get a 4k projector for around $1k new. Check out this one... BenQ TK800M HDR XPR 4K UHD DLP Home Theater Projector ($1099 at BHPhoto) Not sure how it compares, but I would think after so long it would be better.

     

    Bulbs do sometimes explode when they go past the recommended hours of usage. I seem to recall I had one do that (years ago), but I was luck enough to be able to remove all the bits. I have read that sometimes people are not that lucky.

  12. I had the Krell HT Standard/Krell Showcase preamp. and while it had the signature Krell sound it was an ergonomic nightmare to use.  It was not logical to use and was like each department was assigned an area and no one communicated with anyone else. I kept it for a couple of months and sold it

     

    I would see if...

    1: You can demo it for functionality and sound

    2: You can return it for a full refund if you do not like the way it works or sounds.

    3: If it has ever been serviced (electronics tend to need servicing due to age).

    • Thanks 1
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