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NBPK402

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Posts posted by NBPK402

  1. Your front 3 speakers should be the same for the best sound...in fact your center should be at least as good as your left and right, as it is the main one on for Movies and multichannel music. If you cannot afford this... I would get just one Heresy or a pair of Heresy's, and then when you upgrade your front channels move them to the rear. You can always run without a center until you get your reference speakers and just get a 2nd pair of Heresy's for surrounds...then when You upgrade your fronts...you will have a killer setup. 😉

     

    I am running K402 MEHs for my front and no surrounds currently and it sounds great. Sometimes you just need to get the best you can afford in small steps, and buy more pieces as you can afford them (IMO). We have all been there before.

    • Like 1
  2. What center channel and surrounds would you recommend pairing with dual R112SW's and Klipsch Heresey1.5's? I'm putting together a home theater system around current primary speakers and what I already have on hand. But I do intend to upgrade at some point.  Looking for 7.1.2 setup
    Ideally stick with the Hersey 1.5s for the center and even the surrounds.

    Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk

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  3.  
    No, it is ~40X20 Ft.
    Better than square...best would be not divisible by the same number though. Not sure what you can do about that though. My room is worse...we have to each deal with what we have as a room unless we custom build it. I am sure you will get it tuned to be the best that it can be.

    Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  4. 13 hours ago, StabMe said:

     

    It is painted rectangular steel tube. I should have filled them with sand, actually. But since the weight of the speakers is really huge (I expect about 60-70 kilos each), that should damp vibration.

     

     

    Thanks! Already hear huge difference in how much easier it is to listen and comprehend dialogues in movies.

    I would fill them with sand... I had a rectangular stand built that I designed years zgo and if you rap it...it would ring. I filled them with sand and they did not ring anymore...not sure if it would affect the sound, but the good speaker stands are sand filled.

    • Like 1
  5. I followed your suggestions and put in the plastic plugs. Aesthetically they are more pleasing. It is subtle but a just different feel in the room. Or maybe I am imagining it, perception bias and all that. YMMV.
    You could always get some sticking black velvet to attach to the flat face...might even help the sound.

    Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  6. 20 minutes ago, Area 51 said:

    Thanks! Would it be safe to assume you don't hold the low power amps in high regard? Some of the Decware amps, for instance, are rated at 6 amps and even 2 amps. They seem to have a pretty good reputation (along with a 12 month waiting list). They do caution you; efficient speakers are a necessity. I have read that the high sensitivity Klipsch speakers would work with a low power tube type amp. I'm in the market for something to power my recently acquired Heritage and was hoping to find something for less than $35,000 - and I don't want to wait a year! So, I am soliciting recommendations. Thank you for your thoughts.

    I have a Ampcamp mono  (class A) I use for my compression drivers when I want to listen seriously. I could have went with the stereo  version, but I use balanced XLRs.

    • Like 1
  7. Wow. I have a lot to learn. I would have expected 200 watts and 50 watts to be a lot! Would that "fine" apply to Klipsch Heritage speakers? I thought they would be "fine" with a lot less. 
    Headroom..remember doubling the power is just 3db. default_smile.png

    Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk


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  8. Good news, I have the bass back up to where it was and if you look at the was before we added the 2nd amp... I def got a nice improvement in bass by powering each woofer by its own Icepower amp...also it appears the large peak and dip when i used 4" of Roxul all around instead of 2" on the side, floor and behind the mic actually caused the difference. 

    Right channel 11 1 old vs new.png

    • Like 2
  9. Hi
     
    I was wondering what you refer to in regard to wiring between your two woofers and the Icepower 125asx2BTL?
     
     
    So I take it, that you had your two woofers wired in series and then driven BTL.
     
    I don´t know how well you are into your Icepower-amp, so excuse me if i tell you something you already know. I have attached the manual for the Icepower 125asx2.
     
    On page 9 there are some Power Specifications, but it doesn´t seem to indicate, that there should be much difference in output-power whether driven with two channels SE and 4 ohm or one channel BTL and 8 ohm!?
     
    An other thing that I noticed when studying the manual is, that there is a pin on the signal connector from the DSP-board to the ICEPOWER-board that says "BTL Sync". Page 6. When it is activated it synchronizes the switching-frequencies of the two amp-channels. Page 12. I don´t know how much DIY your amps are, but maybe that is an issue when driven in BTL without synchronization? On my MiniDSP plateamps, the software/dsp-board takes care of that.
     
     
    (I own six of the MiniDSP PWR-ICE-125 plate-amps, and have studied the the manual for the Icepower  125asx2, to figure out how I can substitute the Icepower with a small class A amp. There is a manual for the Icepower 125asx2 on the MiniDSP homepage.)
     
    Steffen
     
    ICEpower125ASX2_Datasheet_1_9 (3).pdf
    I was running in BTL mode driving 2 4ohm woofers which was presenting a 8ohm load to the amp (I never drove them in SE mode...I only use XLRs). I added a 2nd amp and rewired my woofers so each woofer was now powered by a single amp in BTL mode. Now if you look at my REW graph you will see how much my bass has increased by adding an additional amp and powering each woofer individually. I am tninking it has to do with the impedance load, and power output the amp is seeing by driving 2 4 ohm woofers versus 2 amps driving a 4ohm load each. I have the BTL pin as per the manual too.

    I find it strange in the way they are showing their power output too. I think they flipped the 8ohm and 4ohm spec on the one spot as they show way more power into 8ohm than 4ohm. The amp is spec'd at only 70w into 8ohms at one spec and 200 at another. For 120v it is spec'd at 370w into 4ohm BTL...with no rating at all at 8ohm. I am assuming 8ohm would be 1/2 that and since it would be driving 2 speakers...wouldn't it be giving 1/2 of that 8ohm to each woofer?

    Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk



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    • Like 1
  10. I decided to change the way my speakers were wired to the amp. I did this because my Icepower 125asx2BTL amps are spec'd for 4 ohms, and my Emminence Kappa 15c woofers are 4 ohm woofers. The way they were wired I believed was starving them of bass power due to them being seen as a 8ohm load. The way I now have them wired from the Xilica is with a XLR splitter going to each amp and the amp output goes to the individual woofer.

    I ran REW for the first time from the MLP and noticed a huge peak around 100hz, and Chris said lower the gain by 8db.. I did and it sounded much better, so I ran my right channel with the mic 1 meter from the horn mouth Using my 6" deep acoustic panels (filled with 4" of Roxul r60) to form a box (somewhat, as I ran short on panels) around the mic. The previous measurement was done with a single layer of Roxul r60 (raw), with one standing upright on each side of the horn (in the gap between the horn and cabinet), one on the floor, and 1 behind the mic stand I made.

    I ran REW and compared it to the old REW, and saw some interesting things. Even after the 8db gain reduction...we still have a big peak. Now what I also find interesting is at 22hz where the measurement stopped...look how much more bass I have compared to the original REW run! If I was to put the gain back to where it was previously and get rid of the peak around 100hz... I would have superb bass down to 20hz!

    Next question is why do I have a null now around 650hz? Is it the mic? Is it the thicker acoustic panels?
     
    If I was to reduce the bump...how would I do it so I only got the selected area that is boosted, and would it affect the phase growth?

    As everyone knows I have loved these MEHs that Chris has shared to everyone, and now after seeing it is possible to get close to 20HZ without even having a sub. I am VERY HIGHLY recommending everyone to give these a shot, as you WILL NOT be disappointed!

    Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk



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