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CANT

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Everything posted by CANT

  1. I already have a pair of standard HII's and a pair of 2-way Heresy I built that use a K28E paired with a D220TI-16 on a K65/66 horn. So I don't really want to build just another pair of Heresy? As for parts, I have parts from all 3 generations and some other models... but I will probably be using K77's and K55's for the tweeter and squawker on this. As for the woofer I have not decided? It could be K series, Crites or something else I find acceptable and handy? I will build the crossovers my self so I don't particularly feel tied to a specific arrangement... More thoughts?
  2. So, I'm thinking of building a pair of decorator boxes in the old vertical arrangement to use up some spare Heresy parts (seemed different & interesting) but I can't decide between 2 designs... The first is just a straight scaled down Cornwall. At 85% of it's original size a 30.5H x 21.5W x 13.25D would rather perfectly fit all of the available pieces but would double the internal volume which might be a bit much? Also, with only a 15% reduction from it's original size it somewhat begs the question, "why not just build a Cornwall?". This led to the second design which is 22.5H x 22.5W x 13.25D. At this size we are near the internal volume of the Forte, which seems more reasonable and the square design allows for a much easier orientation change should the listener choose to turn the cabs horizontal? These dimensions would make for a far tighter fit though which may not be as visually appealing? I realize this question is random and right now hypothetical but what are your thoughts?
  3. Do you still have the bad crossover? I've been hoping to find one of these that I could play with/dismantle...
  4. When I was playing around with my KG4's the mod that made the biggest difference was replacing the stock phenolic tweeter diaphragms with newer titanium diaphragms. These can be sourced from either Bob Crites or Klipsch directly. Some people have had issues buying directly from Klipsch so it might be easier to talk to Bob? I have purchased/used many of both and they are nearly identical. The second best upgrade came with replacing the capacitors and inductor on the high pass side of the crossover network. I actually tried out/tested a bunch of different components in the KG4 network! I settled on ClarityCap SA capacitors and a 16ga wire inductor. Those parts are BIG for that board though and it took some finagling to fit them... in retrospect it would have been easier to relocate to a separate board but at the time I didn't feel like finding two pieces of scrap wood. Obviously you can choose to use whichever parts you like but I would say, as a rule, bigger is better. I did also replace the woofer network components but noticed little difference using a larger gauge wire inductor or better quality capacitor there. I think it is important to note here too that changing the values of any of the capacitors will tweek the crossover even if only slightly. Going from 8.0uF to 8.2uF I didn't do much but deciding between 2.7uF and 3.3uF to replace the 3.0uF is a personal preference. There are a few options if you want to stick with the actual intended values (3uF & 8uF) but far more if you allow for a slight varience (2.7uF/3.3uF & 8.2uF). I personally almost always choose the lower value but like I said that is my preference. My KG4's were heavily modded when I sold them. I also preformed many of the other mods listed in this thread (bracing, damping, etc.) and they are technically upgrades but for me the differences are so minute part of me feels like they were kind of a waste of time on this speaker? I mean duct seal cost almost nothing so you might feel like picking some up or you might have a bunch of dynamat lying around like some of us or you might just feel like killing a weekend cutting up and installing braces and if any of that is something that sounds good to you I would not discourage you but I felt like I should let you know that if you don't feel like doing all of that you aren't really missing out on all that much. Have fun with whatever mods you choose to do. =)
  5. I don't have any experience with the stock K33E, Kappa 15C or CW1526C, so I can not give you a comparison, but I do have a CWIII with a CW1526 in it that I enjoy and what little testing I have done on the set up seem to support the CW1526 being a good fit as well. I should note that I didn't really put too much thought into this selection though... I just happen to have one lying around?
  6. Pictures in Ad. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/ele/4674135415.html
  7. I believe what you are describing is basically a KP-301-II?
  8. Yes, this SA-HF would have been used in one of the following: Klipschorn from roughly 1951-1961 Shorthorn from roughly 1956-1961 H700 (Heresy) from roughly 1957-1961 Cornwall from roughly 1959-1961 *side note: Universtiy was actually acquired by James Ling/Ling Electric Company/L.M. Electronics (later LTV or Ling-Temco-Vought) in 1959-60 and turned into a trademark shortly there after. The manufacturing of University Sound product line was moved to Oklahoma City, OK in 1963 and in 1970 a merger made Universtiy Sound a division of Altec Lansing who was also purchased by James Ling/Ling Electric Company/L.M. Electronics (later LTV or Ling-Temco-Vought) back in 1958-59.
  9. Hi All, I am selling my single Klipsch Tested & Approved University SA-HF mid-range compression driver. I hate saying something is rare, because it seems like an over used term in these instances but I also can't say I've seen many of these? I acquired it to possibly use in a project with a few other pieces but now think it might be better suited for some one else's restoration? I don't know if it is because this unit is rated at 25W and the unit other I purchased/tested was rated at 30W or if it is a product of the QA process but this unit does have a smoother and slightly better frequency response than the other said standard SA-HF unit. Neither unit buzzes or seems to have have performance issues. In fact at it's worst the 30W unit seems to more closely match the K-55-V / PD-5VH and would make a good replacement piece itself. I generally reply to inquiry with 24hrs and will mark the post SOLD when the unit is no longer available as I don't anticipate this moving all that quickly... Asking $100+S&H
  10. If anyone on here wants to buy this directly from me via paypal I'll sell it for $40+S&H? The box is 16x16x8 and weighs 14lbs and would be shipping out of KS 66061, if you want to run your own estimate. I get a pretty good deal going to through UPS at my work but I will to ship whatever carrier the buyer prefers as long as I clear $40. The last S&H quote I ran for someone was $12 but they weren't that far away. Please, no offers for less than this amount.
  11. Bought for testing and didn't end up suiting my needs. See auction for details, pictures and price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321356924076
  12. Bought for testing and didn't end up suiting my needs. See auction for pictures and price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/321356906550
  13. The AB3, AL4 & AK4 are very similar... Here is a repost of Dean's AK4 schem from the other page if anyone wants to compare...
  14. In case anyone else found the original files as hard to read as me, I cleaned up the PDF's... AB3.pdf AL4.pdf
  15. Well, it was a fun experiment but... no dice... The woofer itself sounds very similar to the K28E but despite trying a few different network arrangements and tweeters I just couldn't get the high end to sound right... On to the next harebrained idea...
  16. I am very interested in getting more details on this mod...
  17. I randomly found this (http://www.usspeaker.com/paudio%20ph-2510-1.htm) while browsing through currently available horns. You can see the mold mark for the notch/cutout needed to mount this in the KP/KPT assemblies and the measurements are correct. I've attached the spec sheet in case anyone's interested...
  18. Yeah, I don't think so either...
  19. And I am not saying that the Cornscalla-wall wont work just that it posses question and that I have not tested it...
  20. I wasn't attempting an HIII clone per se... just trying out parts I had available with a crossover I already had in place? I will be looking at other crossover orientations in the future to see if they like the K107/792 better though? Oddly enough, I did have several people say that the Cornscalla-wall would be good option for the Heresy but 33uF is still a little too large for the K53K and .62mH seems too small for the 4ohm K28? I need to look at the response pattern though...
  21. Maybe we are talking about 2 different crossovers? Attached is the schematic I found for what was referred to as the ALKjr... I'm using the K28E so I went with a 1.3mH instead of the stated 2.5mH but if I were still using the stock K22's the 2.5mh should have been fine? Now the 40uF on the K53K is definitely a bit large (which could be what you are talking about) but the K53K has such a steep natural drop off using the 40uF wouldn't really so much change the crossover point as leave it somewhat ill protect from lower frequencies? In any case I used a smaller value. I really don't know why the K107/K792's doesn't like my Heresy's? All I know is this: HX + K76 = fine/great HX + K107/K792 = sibilant CWIII (w/K53K) + K107/K792 = fine/great CWIII (w/K53K) + K79 = a little too forward sounding Oh, I believe you also asked about padding? I tried a few different options but in the end the easiest was to just use the K76 motor on the on the K107/K792 horn...
  22. I would like to note and this seems as good a place as any, that I definitively did not prefer the "tractix" horn of the K792/K107 over the stock exponential K76 in my Heresy's with ALKjr crossovers. I mentioned my crossover because I believe my preference is directly tied to the design I am currently using. I came to this conclusion after playing around with my mono CWIII, in which, I definitely prefer the K792/K107 horn. Since both networks use only slightly different 3rd order high pass circuits I am wondering if the issue I notice has something to do with how the squawker is terminated? When I have more time I would like to try switching out my 1st order mid low pass for a 2nd order mid low pass to see if that helps...? For now I would not suggest using the K792/K107 unless you have a III series, KP series or appropriately comparable crossover.
  23. FYI, I've edited my prior post since finding out that the driver I used to initially audition/test this horn was not up to spec... my current comments are based of subsequent audition/test with a fully functioning driver. Please excuse the original misinformation.
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