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kodomo

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Everything posted by kodomo

  1. I checked all that. I tried connecting a 9v battery to test if there is any sound coming out at all, and none! Still, I installed both crossovers and made all the connections except the tweeter. I will wait till my fostex arrive and install my volti t1's to these. I also plan on dividing the cabinets into two. I couldnt fit both of them in my 4 door wrangler!
  2. I have a problem. Everything is working but the tweeters. I thought there may be something wrong with the crossovers, so I tried connecting the tweeters directly to the amp, full range, just for a test. No crossovers but still both of them are unresponsive? It seems like I am missing something here! Any help?
  3. I have replaced mine with Crites woofers. I have also changed the crossovers, so I am not 100% sure it is because of the woofers, but my bass bins are sounding a little less distorted and extend a little deeper.
  4. I am getting there. They look like some Jamaican's sound system. I can just put a lion, a green and a yellow strip Sunday I will be finishing this speaker, hooking up the crossover and binding posts, etc.
  5. Yes, I know. I have used birch plywood before as well. Still, this is what I had, and I did not want to buy anything and just use what I have. Let's hear how it turns out
  6. Parts have been mostly cut. I love the tools that help you get precise cuts. There will be absolutely no leaks in my box! I will mount the 401 horn from outside rather than inside. I will flush mount the woofers. I just put the drivers and horns for photo purposes to have a reference. I am also planning putting felt inside the box all around. I have some good felt I used in another speaker project.
  7. I have identified the crossovers I have and they are not AK-3. They are AK-4's made from Dean's schematics. Hope they work for me I will not tune the box lower than 40hz. Today I will take some photos and share here of the developments.
  8. I was going to divide the cabinet internally to keep a similar volume with the cornwall. However I do not have to do that. I have more internal volume undivided. The cornwall's internal volume is around 14000 cu.in. but mine is 23000 cu.in. undivided. As I have more volume, how can use it to my advantage. I can have deeper bass I guess but how should I change the port? Can anyone help me with this?
  9. I will surely try the spare AK-3 networks I have first. Hope they work! I ll let you guys know Do you mean wrapped around the corners like this, but total opening dimension is kept the same around the perimeter?
  10. I just want to use the stuff that I have in my possession. I already have a 2" throated wooden tractix horn in my system This is being built for a friend with the spare parts that I have. I thought lower port profile is dictated by the volume of the box. This shares the volume of the cornwall, so I kept a similar port. What would you recommend, anything I can do without buying more stuff to make the speaker sound better is more than welcome I haven't cut anything on the front board yet. It will be the last piece I build, I have still time to reconsider port size and shape.
  11. I thought I need to cross around 800hz and 5000hz. This site says around 600hz is enough (http://mysite.verizon.net/res12il11/id92.html) There is also a schematic of Klipsch b3 which the site owner thinks is good for cornscala. I found the b3's original schematic as well. Do you guys think that would be worth the effort. If it is good for cornscala or cornwall, it would probably work in my speaker.
  12. Yes, I am in Antalya, Turkey. I have cool engineer friends that would help me If I can get the schematic and source the parts, it wouldn't be a problem. If the speakers sound good, I will put the sketchup file and all the dimensions here. ps. These will be given to a friend who is a struggling musician. I do not like the spare parts lying around. He is very talented, has very good ears and I really want him to be able to listen to good quality sound.
  13. Today I started cutting the wood with the help of a local carpenter. I have atlas drivers, k401 horns, k33 woofers and the tweeters. I wanted to build the cornscala at first, but then I found them to be a little bulky and short. I wanted to make a slimmer one, and found some people (a german guy) trying that. From his dimensions, I just put on a few more and matched the total volume of a cornwall after drivers and horns etc. My local carpenter had some mdf laying around, so I changed the project from birchwood plywood to that. He had two of them with finishings laminated on top. Red and cream colored. I will be using the red in front, and cream all around. The only things I am missing are the crossovers. The usual people get them are from Al (Alk) or Bob (Crites) but the cost of crossovers are over the customs limit. This means lots of fees and hassles. Do you think other crossovers with 800hz and 5000hz crossover points can work as well. This one costs peanuts (http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-crossover-3-way-8-ohm-800-5000-hz-100w--260-210) so I may give it a try. Maybe, I should buy plans from Bob or Al (if they are selling them) and try and build my crossovers. Still I would need to source parts etc. Any recommendations on this crossover issue?
  14. I am using Volti Audio's tractix wooden horns with 2 inch BMS 4592ND-MID. The tophat stays intact if thats what you care about. It sounds very very good to me. I am using volti crossovers as well. They are nifty as you can adjust the midrange level and woofer cutoff with them according to your room. I just took off tweeters from the sides and put them on top of the speakers, as to my hearing it sounds better this way.
  15. Yes, I have seen your room and understand what you mean when you say its no small feat. I had few problems with mine like harshness on the harmonics of female vocals, I guess around 12k-16k hz, boxy plasticy sounding around 1000-1500hz... Generally a little fatiguing. Then I changed the horns for Greg's from Volti and put the 2 inch bms drivers behind it. The new tweeters are to my liking as well. Putting the basstraps on top helped a lot too! I actually had bigger ones on top and were responding better but I couldnt position tweeters with it. Now, I am building proper boxes for tweeters and will put back the bigger traps back again with them. I have about 18 feet between speakers and now quite happy overall. I plan on adding a horn subwoofer that I am going to build. I keep on listening all the speakers I can, spend time with them if possible. I have 4 different sound systems (2 of them at the studio, active monitors from Adam, Germany and one full range horn) and my father has 2, one in a purpose built room. I very much prefer my system over all of them. After the changing of the horns, drivers and all, I actually prefered it over avant garde uno that I had a chance to listen to.
  16. Thank you for the information artto, I have wrongly named it I guess. However we have made blind tests and we can hear the difference everytime... Especially the coherence of the stage is more stable. The instruments are mroe isolated.
  17. Thank you guys for the warm welcomes I don't think it would be practical to send the woofers from Antalya, Turkey to U.S. and get drivers from there. Too much shipping and customs hassles will ensue. MWM bins does not match what I want... I am not using digital processors, I have physically put the tweeters horizontally in line with the mids. Then moved them back enough so I do not need to send a delayed signal to them. I decided to build the THT low profile. I am on the verge of getting a driver for it and keep my k33s with the rest of the stuff I have for a cornscala project!
  18. I'll build one then. So, the dimensions will be 24x18x72 for me if I go with the tall version. I can find mostly any kind of wood. Which one would be the most desirable for the job, the birch or the plywoods?
  19. I can go for a THT. Its 36x36x24 inches. I can make the taller and narrower version too... Which dimension are you referring to for 8" deep? Is it the driver placement? I may get these plans, cut the pieces in cnc and just glue them at my place! I guess birchwood plywood would work. How about a double k33 in an enclosure?
  20. Thanks mustang guy! I will document my project over here. I am on mac os x, so hornresp doesn't work on my os. The program seems easy enough, I will have to find a friend with a windows machine and try my best. I also think of adding a plate amp on it with a built in filter. Do you guys think this one http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa100-100w-subwoofer-plate-amplifier--300-802 would be enough. It is rated 100watts and I think a suitable horn would be efficient enough... Lilmike's Cinema F-20 uses 15" woofers, maybe I can substitute k33's for the eminence?
  21. From the album: The system

    At last, I took off the tweeters out from the khorns tops. Volti's mid horns are really really great and work incredible with the beymas, but putting the tweeters to their sides could be bettered. This is what I have done and I am very happy about it.
  22. I have a great system that I am very happy with. My system is built upon klipschorn with volti horns 2"throats and BMS drivers, plus a beyma tweeter I time aligned and put on top. I have crites 1526c woofers in the bassbin and have volti crossovers too. I am very happy with my corners as well and could go down to 40hz without much loss. I have a klipsch home theater sub, that is less than satisfactory in movies and completely useless in 2channel listening. That is why I decided to build my own horn subwoofer! I just need to fill 20hz to 40hz with as little as distortion as possible. I know it can be big, but I have space and no worries about waf. My initial thoughts are tapped or folded horns as I read they work better with khorns. I also like a full horn system. I have 10 feet ceilings so I can have a tall tapped horn with maybe one fold that would be easier to build. I am not sure which design would be more appropiate for utilizing my k33s though! I am sure there are lot different and better ideas. I am working very hard and only have Sundays and nights, so I cant build a few different ones and try em out. I am waiting to hear about your experiences and help! And if any day you decide to visit sunny Antalya, Turkey, you are welcome to listen to music at my place
  23. kodomo

    IMG 3605

    @minermark: Thanks for noticing! It is quite rigid too! @crouse: There are 18feet from center to center between khorns. My seating position is at the intersection. I guess I am 11,5feet away from the front wall. I hope that helps.
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