ryanm84
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Posts posted by ryanm84
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Hi. I own an XSP1 and last night after power up, while playing music, the unit shut off into standby mode. When trying to turn on, it powers up momentarily (blue lights instead of yellow) and back to standby. I’ve unplugged it and removed all connections with the same result. Of course it is Saturday and I don’t think I can contact support today...wondering if there is something I should look at?
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
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My Ortofon is a MM cart. So we shall see. About 2 hours before the dog walk and I can give it a go.
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ok I may have figured a little something out. Rookie mistake by not turning the volume knob to the right. I put in a cd and the entire system roars to life. Like concert level 100 feet away ( my wife was outside by the pool with ear buds in and she heard Led Zeppelin loud and clear) and the bass bin response was quite a bit different. So based on that it is not the pre or the speaker. After dinner and when the kids take the dog for a walk I’ll grab some vinyl and give the volume a healthy turn. I find it hard to believe that I have an issue with my TT but shall see.
Thanks for the ideas so far.
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31 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:
Have you tried using another source other than the turntable? It may not be the speaker fuses at all...lots of distance between the turntable and the speakers electronically-speaking
I have and it Seems like something is missing across the board.
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35 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:
First thing is to check your fuses on the bass bin connection panels.
Will check. Good point!
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As it is very dry here, I get a lot of static shocks. Well one jumped from me thru my tone arm on my TT and now it’s like I’m missing action from the bass bin. I’m going to play some different music to check but there doesn’t seem to be a lot of air moving out the back. What should I check first? What is unlikely to be the issue? Thanks in advance for any ideas. Does my issue as stated make sense?
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BigStewMan
in Lounge
I haven’t been around a lot but one of the last times I was Steve was there and he was commenting on life. Good luck Steve! I hope things work out for your brother.
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On 10/9/2018 at 6:13 PM, WMcD said:
I would think that lacquer is not compatible with oil finishes. I'm sure you'll check the label and the Internet. Start with an inconspicuous spot as everyone says.
Are you using Deft, or a rattle can, or professional sprayer for lacquer? Just out of curiosity.
OTOH I always recommend wipe-on varnishes. There is plenty on the Internet about it.
Everyone here has heard my recipe. Wipe on, remove any excess, let dry over night. Scuff lightly with no-scratch Scotchbrite. Bat off the dust. Wipe on another thin coat, remove excess, let dry over night. Repeat for four days. After a week you can put on some Butcher's wax
You're really investing about one hour a night and four hours total. You'll get a marvelous finish you can't get in one four-hour set of work. You'll see many variations on this. But it all comes down to thin coats and patience.
WMcD
Oh yeah, it was Watco lacquer. It worked well even with all that surface area on the LF cabinet and all the different surfaces of the top hat.
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The horn would be a bear for sure!
The right side of my room is almost all windows. If I’m sitting by those windows (there is a bar there) I can turn that speaker into the corner and properly load it. The other sits in a similar corner but it would face away from you. I know what they can sound like but until one of my kids goes to school or I enclose the backs I leave something on the table.
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Probably hard to see but the work is done. Oiled and lacquered and back in their original positions. Heavy and awkward to move but fun to take them apart and see how they were constructed. Makes one think they could build a pair, maybe.
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On 10/9/2018 at 6:13 PM, WMcD said:
I would think that lacquer is not compatible with oil finishes. I'm sure you'll check the label and the Internet. Start with an inconspicuous spot as everyone says.
Are you using Deft, or a rattle can, or professional sprayer for lacquer? Just out of curiosity.
OTOH I always recommend wipe-on varnishes. There is plenty on the Internet about it.
Everyone here has heard my recipe. Wipe on, remove any excess, let dry over night. Scuff lightly with no-scratch Scotchbrite. Bat off the dust. Wipe on another thin coat, remove excess, let dry over night. Repeat for four days. After a week you can put on some Butcher's wax
You're really investing about one hour a night and four hours total. You'll get a marvelous finish you can't get in one four-hour set of work. You'll see many variations on this. But it all comes down to thin coats and patience.
WMcD
I have no issues with applying a top coat as I really think the right one really improves the look of wood and more importantly, helps keep it from drying out, maintains the color finish and makes ongoing maintenance a little easier.
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I’ve used lacquer on some hallway tables I built from walnut plywood and solid walnut. I didn’t notice any issues with applying lacquer over the top of them with a Watco oil finish (no wood stain) Forget what brand I used but it’s brush on which had me worried when I first used it. But following the instructions on how soon to reapply a second coat and the sanding done before the third gave great results.
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Flood. After it sits for a bit (10 mins maybe) I put some more on then wipe all the surfaces to remove the excess.
Label says to allow 72 hours before applying a top coat. If you’re inclined to add one.
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I’m happy with the finish. Second time doing this. First time was on my refurb corns.
Watco has worked well every time and a lacquer top will make it permanent.
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I don’t argue that a corner would help but with 12 foot ceilings and a cavernous downstairs, I can’t really complain. My daughter is 13 so her room might get turned into my dedicated listening room.
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This next weekend I will put a lacquer over the finish even though it didn’t come that way. And even better clean off all the dust and dirt and tighten all the screws for the mid and tweeter, magnets,etc.
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Took the top hats off and removed the grilles (sides and top) so I could oil everything. Used Watco natural oil and a cheap foam brush to flooded all the surfaces. After letting them set for a bit I used a microfiber towel to remove excess. They are hanging out in the garage drying. I am so glad I got the set I got - walnut and cane go well together and the wood is just great with a fresh oil.
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I bought my pair in October 2016 and they are from 1990. Nothing has been done to them by me or previous owners (the woofer trap doors are still sealed from the factory). But the veneer needed a little attention.
What I normally see:
what I got for about a week due to drying oil and a few days of travel for work:
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I am not getting it. I have a Samsung with Arc at HDMI 2, an oppo 103, and direct tv. My direct tv is connected to the tv at HDMI 1. HDMI 2 is connected to the sound bar. The oppo is connected to one of the HDMI inputs on the sound bar. I get sound and picture when the oppo is on. The tv has no sound. I’ve unplugged everything in case there was an issue with HDMI but nothing. What am I missing?
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On 7/9/2018 at 5:48 PM, edzu1234 said:
Hello Fellow Klipsch Addicts, I need to ask if anyone has experience REPAIRING AND FIXING RISERS?? I have two pairs of Forte II and a pair of Quartets in black in need of riser repair. The veneer is peeling, splintering, and chipping in a variety of places on the risers due to dryness of the wood surface and moving the speakers around. I need someone who has expertise on repairing the risers. What type of wood patch, putty, or plastic wood would be the best for the job. Also, what kind of treatment or preservative that can I apply to the wood before I repaint them and have it retain a sense of sturdiness, stealth, and moisture so I will not run into this issue again. Thanks to all in advance for your help!
Where you located?
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I redid a pair of Cornwall’s a few years back. My risers were delaminating, chipped and I think water damaged. I simply created new ones out of plywood and reused the screws to attach to the speaker box. I reveneered mine to match the walnut veneer on the boxes.
On 9/2/2013 at 11:22 PM, ryanm84 said:I am refinishing my cw1. I used the old grilles as a template for new ones rather than the motor board. I believe the grilles to be original. However, when lining up the old and subsequently the newly routed grilles, the tweeter and sqawker holes partially obstruct the motor board cut outs. I plan on fixing this but realistically what kind of impact does this have on the sound? I assume minimal as this came from klipsch this way. Thanks.
If yours Are in really bad shape, you might consider making new ones.
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I did have a firmware upgrade waiting but that didn’t make a difference.
Will look into converting. M2ts appears on the supported list for the 103 but it just isn’t happening.
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These are high res files burned from DVD-a or blu ray or similar.
Files apparently played from said thumb drive on an older Sony bd player.
Looking for some Crites Cornwall B2 crossovers
in Garage Sale
Posted
I have a pair of B2 crossovers built by Dean at Aletheia Audio. Had them in my cornwalls and sold them without the x-over. Message me if you want to know more.