WakeJunkie

The IB would not have to be in the middle of the room, but would need to be in front of the false wall. Probably right in front of it. It is possible we can have the manifold open up inside the top cabinets since we will be using grill cloth fronts. We really don't need that much clearance in the attic. Black trim with black grill cloth on your black ceiling. Someone would have to look for it. It would not be noticeable at all.

I'll likely build it with Wake. Together we can knock it out in no time. We can definitely knock it out. Building isn't the problem. Deciding is. I still think an attic IB should still be in the running.

Thanks Dave, I have had fun with this one. I still need to build the bar, add the kitchen and possibly a bathroom attached. All in due time. Unfortunately it all cost money. If I quit buying boats I could get more done down here.

I second this one.... If I come across an RF-7ii I can turn into a center then that is a possibility. I am very pleased with the look and sound of the 7ii's. I am hoping Youth won't corrupt me to bad....as if that hasn't already happened.

In the words of George Lopez - "I got this"

Two weeks, i'll come give wake a hand, in two weeks we cold knock out a wall and go 10' wider and go fishing the last few days Come on, lets hammer this thing out. haha It will take a few weeks to build, but not all onsite. I will build most of it after work when I can get time to do it. I plan to deliver a kit that we can install without spending to much time on it so we can spend the rest of the time enjoying it.

To protect your speakers you should probably just run straight off your receiver. I can keep that Sherbourn amp cozy for you. ;-)

You want to carry an IB from my shop to Central America... hope you brought some friends. The enclosure alone is over 250lbs. I seriously have considered doing some contract work on the side for fun. If you drive up from Central America I am sure we can work something out. ;-)

"Does yours have any mods or is it stock? " All my speakers are factory. I personally love the sound and don't see any need to tame anything. If I had a pair of original RF-7's I would probably be giving DeanG a call.

To get the true match you would need the RC-64ii, or best would be a third RF-7ii. I have the RC-7 behind my AT screen and have never once been watching a movie and thought about it not matching. As far as I can tell it matches so close I can't tell. The one and only time I ever have was when my AVR plays white noise to set the levels it sounds a little different from the RC-7 than from my RF-7ii's. I went from the RC-3ii to the RC-7, and what a jump that was. I personally have been very please with the RC-7 performance and think it complements the RF-7iis nicely. The RC-7 has a much wider soundstage and movie vocals are coming from the screen. With the RC-3ii I felt like I could just point at the speaker. The RC-7 was much more natural. If you come across a steal for an RC-64ii on Craigslist then maybe, but otherwise I really think you will be as pleased as I am with the RC-7 for years to come. As far as the rear speakers I think Scrappy is right, I wouldn't expect the surrounds to carry much bass. That is what the sub is for and should carry that load. As far as harsh goes, the original RF-7s were a bit harsh IMO. The RF-7ii's really sound amazing and I have listened to them for hours on many occasions without fatigue. No mod required. You already have a good center, get the RF-7ii's and If it comes down to money, skip the rear channels and get a better sub. When it comes to experience those are the things that really make the difference. For what it is worth, FI IB318's in an IB are pretty beast in the sub department.

Yeah, but what would I do after lunch on Saturday when I finished?

I could if I had the parts. Youth has all the parts.....just saying...

Here is what we need for the ultimate in Home Theater speakers.... The LaScalla 7ii.

I need to find an RF7ii that I can turn into a center channel speaker. No chance of me fitting LaScalas no matter what they sound like. Youth keeps telling me how great they are and honestly I hope I don't like them as much as my 7ii's so there is no itch to scratch.... I always liked the 83's until I heard the 7's and 7ii's. To me they really knocked it out of the park. Are the LaScalla's really that much better than a stock set of 7ii's? Wish I could A/B that.

If we raise the LaScalas up so that the horn is midscreen will it really hurt the sound? Having the vocals come from the center of the screen seems to make sense. I expect the dispersion on those horns is more than sufficient that raising them another foot or more probably will not mater much. Since I have never heard the LaScalas I am hypothesizing. Someone with some first hand experience should chime in. Here is a test. Sit down and listen, then stand up and listen. If you can't tell a difference then we should be able to move them up.

We can do better than that. ;-)

If we can manage a motorized masking system like the DIY one I built, you would only need to swap the side panels and adjust the stop location to change screen size. I could build a manual version with the same roller principal if we can't find the parts for the motorized one reasonably.

Plan for your next projector, not just this one. In 3-5 years you will likely have a 4K projector that is much brighter than the one you have and can uncover any screen you can't use now.

Thanks Bro. Your HT inspired me to build one of my own. I need to do a new Panorama shot. That pic doesn't have the IB Subs.

I agree. I put as large a screen as I could (130") due to height at 16x9. I have never regretted it. On the beanbag I watch much closer than Youth and it is truly perfect, not to big. I just couldn't go 2.35:1 and shrink my football and Xbox games.

Came across something this weekend I just could not pass up. 10 Ft Curved granite counter with a matching smaller straight granite countertop. The 10ft fits behind the theater seating nicely and was exactly what I wanted. It even matches the granite in the kitchen upstairs. It is counter top height, not bar height. All the wood base you see here will be removed and I will build an oak base to match the rest of the woodwork in the room. Obviously it will be designed differently so legs can go under the bar from this side. This is the old table it is replacing. It is sitting on a pretty tall flat dolly here. The final height will be about 2-3" shorter at 42". The length is perfect and the recliners lean beside it with a couple inches to spare. It is a little tight near the foosball table, but not a big issue. I didn't get a pic of the second piece that matches. 50" long by 24" deep with matching backsplash. This will be for the wet bar under the stairs. I already have the black sink and fixture to mount into it as well as a single drawer dishwasher.

That is exactly what I am talking about. The front edge of the cabinet as it enters the room would be very much like mine only taller. Behind it in the attic it would be easier to think about it as closing in a room vs building a cabinet. It is in your attic, make it big enough you can get inside with the gear. You don't need anything pretty behind the gear if you use blank faceplates to cover empty slots. Even if you don't paint it black you should not see it because there should be zero light in that room. Cover the walls with something cheap, hardwood plywood is not necessary if you can't see it. I didn't even paint inside mine and you would have to put your face up to a hole around the Xbox and shied your eyes to have a chance of seeing in there. If you can't find rails cheap and unless you need it somewhere else I would scalp the rack you have and use the parts. Angle grinder with a cut off blade makes quick work of racks... Missed your rack shelf question. Got them and the blank faceplates from same place I got the rack rails. Buying new is EXPENSIVE. Don't forget to check screw size and thread. They are not all the same.

I pretreated with Minwax Wood conditioner before I stained the wood. I did not buy the wood like that. I would not recommend it either unless you can get enough to do your entire project and anything else that may come up in the future in that room. It could be very difficult to match later. For staining and varnishing plywood I use these: Shur-line handi Painter paint pads. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-6-in-Handi-Painter-Paint-Pad-01500H/100186429 I use the mini roller pans with them, they work perfect. Goes very quick on flat surfaces and does a good job. Use Satin finish stain and not gloss and mistakes will not show nearly as bad. Sand to 220grit. Pretreat with wood conditioner, stain with paint pad and allow to dry a couple hours or more, put first coat of varnish with clean pad. Allow to dry fully, overnight, VERY lightly sand with 220 just enough to take off the raised grain. Watch the edges so you don't take the finish. Wipe clean and put a second coat of varnish on with paint pad. Second coat is the important one, it should look wet when done. You want to keep a wet edge.

The wood on the walls and inside the rack area is cabinet grade Birch plywood. Pretreated and stained with Minwax Red Mahogany. I make my own trim out of rough cut oak and layer different stains to make sure the oak and birch match since they each take stain differently. Pre-stained...I am insulted. lol. The 19" opening is for the rack rails and opening only. It should be a snug fit, but that is only for the first couple inches. That is the visible part from the room. Behind it mine opens up several inches on each side for airflow and easy access. For the rear access I built a small door and put a regular knob and hinges on it. Easier than trying to come up with some kind of cabinet enclosure. The little doors they sell for attic access in gable houses would work well and are sometimes available at Habitat for Humanity stores. As far as supports you should post some pics so I can get a better idea of what you are working with.

I got 6 rails and a 10" fan out of a LAN enclosed rack for $22. Ordered the black screws from fastenal. I used 4 rack rails. Mine has front and rear rack just like the cabinet to support the APC UPS3000 that protects the toys.