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Audible Nectar

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  1. Ladyklipschfan - About the Lowpass Enable/Disable - LFE: When listening to a 5.1 DD soundtrack through a surround receiver, the Subwoofer out on that receiver will send out an LFE (low frequency effects) signal to the RSW-15. Those LFE sounds contain bass information at 120hz and below. In "Disable/LFE" mode on the RSW-15, the reciever is handling the crossover duty, and allowing the LFE signal to come into the sub at 120 hz and below. The idea here is to let the sub play the full LFE signal (all LFE dedicated sounds are 120 hz and below). The bypass mode is used when you are using another crossover, other than the one that is in the sub. Enable mode is used when you wish to use the crossover in the sub itself. This is frequently used when you want the sub to blend in with the main speakers, without "duplicating" any of the frequencies between the mains and sub. For example, your RF-7's extend down to about 40hz or so. In 2 channel, ideally you want the sub to pick up where the RF-7's drop off, below 40 hz. This prevents both sub and RF-7's from playing duplicate frequencies, which can give too much bass in the duplicated frequency range (creating what is known as a "peak") - the audible result is more "boominess". In short: Bypass/LFE - when you are using crossover/bass management outside of the sub. Enable - when you want to use the crossover in the sub. Bass management is a complex issue, but it's not calculus - mostly it depends on the capability of your gear, and how you intend to use it. The RSW-15 (and most other powered subs) have such controls for user flexibility. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002
  2. OK, charlietuna, I'll do the best that I can here, without knowing much about the room overall - this is just general info. I read this on one of the forums (can't remember which one), but the question dealt with placing two subs, and it involved one of the SVS folks who gave a poster some advice. The basic theme was as follows (and I am recalling this from memory, here). 1. The best placement method was to put both subs in the same place (IIRC in a corner) - the SVS experiment gained 6db additional output vs. one sub by doing this. This is tough with two of the JBL's, due to the size of the cabinets. Maybe back-to-back or side-by-side is an option. 2. The second most preferable placement method is to have the units in two front corners (in my case, I am going to try placing them in the front corners, behind my Cornwalls) - 3 db additional output was realized by doing this with two SVS units, vs. one unit. 3. The least preferable was having the units in opposite corners or sides. Normally, when installing a sub, experimentation is necessary to find out how that unit sounds in the room. Placing it in different locations alters the response. You put the sub where it sounds the best. Add another variable (a second sub), and the issue becomes more cloudy. There are many more possible placement combinations with two units - so finding the "sweet spot" for the two subs becomes that much more difficult. If the two JBL's are kept together, you can treat it as one unit, and experiment from there. If your room doesn't have space for this, I would think that front corners would be something to try (if the room can accomodate this). Sorry that I cannot be more specific. I have similar thoughts about placement issues with the two cabinets (I have a feeling that my SPL meter and BFD will see lots of action in the next month or so). I'll be sure to report my findings when my JBL's get here. I hope that this helps some, and I'll keep looking for the post. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002 This message has been edited by dndphishin on 03-28-2002 at 03:54 PM
  3. Talking Heads - Stop Making Sense. This is one of the best music videos available - period. It also is a wonderful test of the musicality of a home theater system. Through Heritage, you'll think you're there! ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002 This message has been edited by dndphishin on 03-28-2002 at 08:42 AM
  4. Justin, don't forget that new Heritage are coming soon ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002
  5. Seb... Call JBL pro at 818-894-8850, they will answer your questions. All you have to lose is the price of the phone call. Amp - I'm starting out with a Crown CE1000 to drive these (pro amp). You need one channel of amplification for each bin, that is stable to 3.5 ohms (minimum impedance on the system as listed by JBL). It is doubtful that your receiver is bridgeable. Even if it is bridgeable, it is not likely it would be stable at that impedance - most amplifiers lose some ability for low impedance drive when bridged. Pro amps seem more suited for the 4638's - if you need an affordable option to power these. Most cheapo receivers would not be recommended for the job - in fact, many home amps/recievers aren't suitable for the JBL's. A Bryston would be excellent for a pair of these cabinets, but that's too many $$$ for me. Kenratboy, do these connections use bare wire only? I've got 2 of the 4638 in transit - can't wait to hear them! ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002
  6. Get the Chorus II's - with Klipsch, bigger is better!! The Fortes are very good, but the Chorus II's are more of what you buy the Forte for. Excellent main speakers for any system (assuming you have the room, of course). $750 is a good deal too - have you seen some of the Chorus auctions on ebay? Perfect condition Chorus II speakers get over a grand at auction. Dougdrake has an even better idea - get 'em both!! ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002 This message has been edited by dndphishin on 03-27-2002 at 07:14 PM
  7. The audio/video hobby does not give buyers many choices for "100% American owned and built" gear - especially where electronics are concerned. While there are some high end goods made here in the USA, as well as many speaker manufacturers, most buyers would be severely limiting their choices if they were to buy "All American". OK, so if one were to buy 100% American, what would our choices be? What would be the "All American" system? ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! A Beast is Lurking.........To be unleashed May 2002
  8. I'll be using an EQ for my new bass rig (parametric), but I don't find it as necessary for the rest of the system. For me this has more to do with room response - a good system should be fairly flat, but the room can and does affect the response curve. In addition to acoustically treating the listening room, EQ's can be helpful if used properly. If you are thinking EQ, think parametric. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  9. It never sold - ended at $759, reserve not met. Zero feedback seller in a remote location must have scared off the bidders - since the unit is worth more than that. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  10. Here's another set of Cornwalls on ebay.....let's see how long these last. link They do look nice ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  11. Soooooo Busted ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  12. Did someone say Heritage I find it almost impossible to write Quintet and Heritage in the same sentence. If you have Quintets as mains, it's time for an upgrade! Think speakers first - it's the most direct way to audio bliss for one purchase. There is nothing fundamentally wrong with your DVD (or the rest of your electronics for that matter) - it's just that the quintets don't cut it for music - period. How much can you spend on speakers? This would be helpful to know, but before you answer, I'll tell you that this is the "make or break" purchase for your system. Think big There's nothing better you can do for the quality of your system than to get the speaker purchase right. Spend as much as you can (without doing anything unwise or irresponsible for more important things in life, of course - food, shelter, etc.). Klipsch offers many choices that will blow away any notion of "slow". You just have the wrong tool for the job right now. What is your room like? How much room do you have for speakers? You've come to the right place, for sure, but "we need some information, first". Once you deal with the speaker issue, then you can address the rest of your electronics. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  13. Kingfish - April 3, 1976 at the Beacon in NYC. Excellent series! ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  14. Nice pics!! Where was the pic above/behind the bar taken?? ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  15. Now THAT'S craftsmanship! Wonderful work, Al. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  16. Bryston is regarded as a "can't miss" amp if you are talking solid state - one of the better brands available. 20 year transferable warranty (not needed often but first rate service) and very reliable and stable. If I had the dough, I would buy Bryston amps all around for my HT (would especially like one for my yet to arrive JBL subs), but that's a bit out of my price league. For 2 channel, the Bryston integrated amps and amp/preamp combos are said to be even better as the amps/preamps match each other perfectly. Good stuff. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  17. Count me in as another satisfied Outlaw 750 owner - I use it in a Heritage HT as well, with excellent results. Built like a tank, runs cool, sounds great in HT and 2 channel. I've not heard the Carver either. I'm only guessing at what you are spending, but in this general range, there are quite a few Acurus 200x5 amps floating around too - and might be had for similar dollars. It's worth a look. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  18. From reviews I've read, the Crown CE series amps fans rarely run (only when worked extremely hard). They should be more than adequate for sub use - I've found several users of pro subs in Google searches using the Crown CE series with good results. I've located a like new CE 1000 and BFD at a very good price - it looks like I've got power for the JBL's now. The CE 1000 should be plenty of power, given that this gear is going in my living room. If it's not good enough, I'll have no trouble recouping the investment. In 7-10 days I should have the gear here - I'll give a report. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  19. Are those 2360/2380 horns on the JBL pro website?? I don't see them on that site. I want to see these.... ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! This message has been edited by dndphishin on 03-22-2002 at 08:35 PM
  20. The number for JBL Pro is 818-894-8850. Before calling JBL, you should check with your CC issuer to see if the funds have been withdrawn from your account. That should happen by late Friday afternoon (remember that JBL is in California, so give them the business day Friday to get it done). JBL will not send a confirmation - they will only contact you if there is a problem with your order. Most major CC issuers have automated 800 #'s that allow you to find out about recent transactions - if JBL charged your CC, that is instantaneously charged to your account, and should reflect on your CC balance. There should be no tax or shipping fees - just the listed price of the items ordered. If the funds have been withdrawn, the gear is on the way, and you are good to go. There is no tracking (they ship these by truck), they will just show up in roughly 7 to 10 days. In this case, there is no reason to call JBL. If the funds are not withdrawn by Monday, then give them a call - they are very helpful. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  21. Vavoline - the crossover is built into the Parts Express amp, so problem solved. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  22. I'm going to offer this up here before I go to ebay/audiogon, etc. Velodyne CT-150 subwoofer, 3 months old, absolutely mint. Original box, packing, manual, and shipping container included. Basically identical to the CHT 15, which lists at $799 (as did the CT-150 when it was current model). Shipping this puppy is problematic - it weighs 90 pounds packed, and is $90ish to ship it (limited options too due to the size and weight). I would prefer a northern/central Illinois or eastern Iowa buyer - I would be willing to deliver or meet up to make it easier to deal with shipping expense and issues. Free advice/help at no additional charge $450.00 ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  23. Sub EQ's - you could skate by without, but I'm doing my homework on them now. I'm looking at two. Behringer Feedback Destroyer (1124 model priced at $139-$179) - here's a primer that explains the unit better than I can. link The BFD is actually an anti feedback device, but has flexible abilities as a parametric EQ. Rane PE17 ($399) - sold through SVS and elsewhere, also a parametric EQ. I'm still researching these, but both appear to be good options to control those JBL beasts by flattening the room response. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! This message has been edited by dndphishin on 03-21-2002 at 09:13 PM
  24. Just got the call from JBL - the 4638's are on the way I called them back today and they had me re-place the order. If you placed an order on the website within the last week, check your CC to see if the charge went through - if not, call JBL. I placed the order again through the website, and the customer service rep gave me a confirmation call, due to my trouble with the first order. Happy Happy, Joy Joy!! ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll!
  25. Vavoline - Let's re-evaluate... Do you have a 2 channel or a home theatre preamp? It sounds like you have a 2 channel. Scenario #1 You should be able to simply run the RCA's from the mono outs on your preamp (assuming that the stereo and mono outs will put out signal when they are all connected), to the RCA in on the Parts Express amp. Run both mono outs, to take up both the left and right input on the sub amp. Then connect the speaker leads from the PE amp to the JBL, and the Denon leads to the Cornwalls (that part would stay the same as it is now). I am assuming that the preamp does not have a crossover. If it does, scenario #1 works fine - you can use the preamp's crossover, and bypass the one in the PE sub amp by flipping a switch. If it does not have a crossover, you may consider another option. Scenario #1 works great in a 2 channel system if you want your Cornwalls to play as low as they can go, and you are looking for the JBL's to pick up where the Cornwalls roll off on the low end (Cornwalls are good to 40 or so hz, Jbl's would play below that). However, the JBL's are some serious woofage, so you may consider letting the JBL's handle some of that low bass, taking some load off of your Denon amp and Cornwalls. So, I present scenario #2: If you want the JBL's to handle more of the bass range, you will want to run RCA's out of the "stereo outs" on the preamp to the PE sub amp, then run RCA leads back to the Denon inputs (which plays the Cornwalls). This way, the Denon/Cornwalls only see what the sub does not (the Denon/Cornwalls are then relieved of playing the low bass, gaining a performance edge). The Parts Express amp is passing the signal to the Denon/Cornwalls without the lowest bass that the JBL's will provide. What method is best? Can't really say for sure, but for a 2 channel system, I'm inclined to go with scenario #2. You can try both, to see what yields the best results. With scenario #2 you can adjust the crossover point to see what balance gives the best performance. If you have a home theater preamp, the possibilities become more numerous, but manageable. I hope this helps - I'll check in again later. ------------------ First we Rock, then we Roll! This message has been edited by dndphishin on 03-21-2002 at 07:35 PM
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