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Steve Phillips

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Posts posted by Steve Phillips

  1. If it is flat on the floor that would be an issue, angle it up if it is not already. Anything between you and the 2.2? Table?

    All the drivers working? Both woofs and the tweet?

    There is only 2 dB diff between it and the 4.2's

    Even angled the better solution is no more than 2 feet above or below the mains

    A KV-3 offers the same 95 dB rating as the 4.2's, but maybe hard to find

    Today new the KC-25 would be a good match and offer 98 dB, but you still need it off the floor even a foot would help

  2. Picky....I missed you down there, well we all did

    RF-7 II's with RC-64 II

    P-39F and 60ths in the room as well

    60ths close to the corners, P-39F next with RF-7 II next

    Pwered by a Jamo reciever, they did well with reciever power.....

    I had the Gallery room around the corner using the G-28 for the LCR and G-12 as side surorunds with a SW-308 sub......I would like to hear some feedback on that system. They sound great. Room was 16 1/2 wide and don't recall depth but most sat about 12 to 14 feet back

    Other than that it was HOT, nice to be back here where it's 66 right now......Hunter and I stayed a week, Trey is still down there on vacation

  3. In a conventional horizontal, WTW (woofer, tweeter, woofer) center channel both woofers are in parallel (seeing the same signal) and respond up to the crossover frequency of say 2000 Hz where the horn tweeter takes over. The problem with this approach is pronounced hot spots and nulls in the response as your listening position moves to the left or right of center. In other words the tonal balance of the speaker is inconsistent or varies quite a bit as you move laterally off of the tweeter axis. The cause of this is common midrange information coming from two different acoustic sources (locations) on the front of the speaker.

    A tapered array takes one of the woofers and rolls off it's upper frequency range at a lower point than the other woofer. This gives one acoustic source for middle and upper midrange frequencies (the other woofer and the horn tweeter). Both woofers still contribute to bass and lower midrange frequencies, which are less directional, and the lateral dispersion from one end of the couch to the other is now more consistent. I hope this helps.
  4. more pics of the inside

    Pardon my ignorance, but what mid-range horn is that in 100_1544[1].JPG? I thought this vintage of C/W would have the old metal K-600. That one looks like a composite 600-Hz version of the K-401. Thanks --

    Hey Larry, that is a K-601 and used during that time between the 1st and 2ond generations. Not sure what mid driver he has, but it's not a 55-V.

    I just spoke to Jeff and offered some thoughts on what to check with his tweeter

  5. Muffled suggsts the tweeter are gone, call our parts dept at 800-554-7724 ext 1048 8 am to 5 pm eastern.

    To double check, take the grill off, then the 4 screws you find in the grill pin holes on the cabinet.

    With a battery, like one out of a remote...disconnect leads to the tweeter, it will only make a scratchy type sound if good.

    Typically the network would be fine, but if you hear a sound from the tweeter, it is the network. The tweeter is a replaceable part, but I would take the speaker apart and have a look inside

  6. The backs are screwed on, so I guess they're 1980 I's. Any thoughts on crossover maintenance? The caps are about 30 years old at this point, & I know some changes were made to the crossover design shortly after these were made. Do owners generally consider those changes to have been an improvement, or is there dissent?

    Send me an email, a bit easier to address and offer thoughts on what you are asking, use the link for email

  7. ***! You guys are fast! The serial #'s look like 244668 & 9. But the 4's also look like they could be U's. They have CWO handwritten on the tag. I thought these were II's? No? I'll check the link you guys provided. I love that I can actually read the legible signatures of my inspector (Bill Gibson), and my tester (N.W.Bradford).

    Do the backs come off? I's.....if the backs are fixed, can not remove...II's

    The 4 being a U? if that is what it looks like then 1980

    CWO, walnut oil finish.......the s/n would not be a II. The II's used the first 2 numbers for the year as noted in the s/n list

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