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Steve Phillips

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Everything posted by Steve Phillips

  1. That's the Z bracket, used since 1983 on the K-Horn to move the tweet forward. Mounts from the inside of the motor board. The D eliminated the need for the Z
  2. Not a typo. The current production K-Horn and LS uses the D. The differnce is the flange on the D. Horn is the same design, but the flang allows the tweeter to flush mount without the Z brackets or cutting the hole larger and it fits through the back of the motor board 1982 and earlier K-Horns. The F used the same mount as the M and K-77 Alnico.
  3. [H] the front end kinda looks like your room with the covers down......we'll geter done soon......complete renovation from the last room.....gonna be nice down there for sure
  4. Mike, pull the amp, unhook it from the woofer. Run a piece of speaker wire to the woofer and to a channel on your receiver. Play something through it. If it sounds OK, no distortion that is, then it's the amp. Now it won't sound like it did as a sub, but at least you should be able to tell if the distrotion is still there or not.
  5. What is your work around for that support pole? My room was finished when we bought our home and if structurally possible, I would have moved the pole 2 1/2 feet, but it's right there almost in the way. Trey found a nice wrap at Home Depot to cover mine. The owner before boxed it in with drywall, I will remove that mess and wrap it. Too many square edges. I am still working on acoustic treatment ideas. What are your plans for projection? Screen size? Do a screen over painted wall if you had thoughts that direction. If you need to budget, painted wall works till you can go screen, but the diff with a "real" screen is very noticeable. Hey scooterdog, your room looks great. After 2 years I replaced my 4805 with a Yamaha DPX-1200. Man steping up to 720 over 480 was a great move, I am fine now for a while, no plans on 1080p. I have a pull down now, gave up on the painted wall. Still woking on the right screen, but a friend gave me his old Luma 106". Colors jumped with a "real" screen over the painted wall screen when I still had the 4805. I would love to build a frame or just do a new one fixed. The gain is my question, still working with samples.
  6. Well I did have on my PWK tie, BS on the back......Miss Valerie gave me that tie at the first "Pilgramage", back before there was an official yearly "meeting". but that was no BS for sure, they sounded great..at that level. Clean, just loud. The Stage One goes to +12, that's it. "No BS kinda guy"? hehe........thanks Doc Who.....that was the room beside the chamber.....
  7. We don't do WFO much, but sometimes we just can't help our selves. My hearing is great, I hear things that scare most, from soft to real soft. I rarely do 90 dB with my khorns, now I do get carried away in my HT room. For 55 years young, I may hear better than most. I am careful with my hearing. Love music too much to chance it. We were definitely haven fun. I don't normally subject myself to that loud of a range. Sure sounded great. BTW, it's silver gray not white, blame the flash LOL[] That SPL was taken 16 feet back, 123.9......ouch
  8. Call and ask about B-stock. I have the 971 B-stock...one tiny hard to find nick on an edge. They may have B 981's now I had DVI in on my PJ and went with the 971 as per Oppo recommendation, they suggested possible conflict. Now I have a PJ with HDMI and using an adapter. Looks great, but wishing I had gone 981 mainly for SACD and DVD-A, no other reason. My PJ is 720p and rescales back to 702 from 1080i. I noticed a nice difference using both 1080i and 720p out from the 970, experiment with your TV to see what looks best. Mine likes 720 a bit over 1080i Check their site out, great links to reviews
  9. Call our parts dept, we may still have stock.........800-554-7724 option 3...8 am to 5 pm eastern
  10. For centers the older KG 2.2v and KG-2.5v would be fine as well. SC-1 shoule considered. Surrounds, KG-.5, 1.5, 2.2, 2.5 and the SS-1 as well as the SS-3.
  11. I found a pair of KG-4's about a month ago, bought them for my wife. We had a pair about 10 years ago and sold them, had to add these to my collection. I listened to them for about 2 weeks in between my RC-64 and that actually sounded good. I would suggest either an RC-62 or 52, depending on how much room you have for it, if it's going in a cabinet. The RC-52 should be fine. With either, the RS-42 should be fine as surrounds. RW-12 sub. Even the C-2 and S-2 from the Synergy series would be a good match.
  12. I think the 804 offered different selections for eq bumps, but yes the 805 would work as well. I am not a fan of cutting either, You may want to take a piece of 3/4 MDF, make a plate for the original amp plate, put a binding post on it. Don't get me wrong here, best to keep things as they were, but the SW series was built back before DD and DTS came along, it was back in the prologic days. DD signals are suggested to be 10 dB hotter and they could possibly blow past the limiters in the amp and over drive the woofer. This was not really an issue with the 12 and 15 from that generation. A new amp is designe d with DD signal's in mind...Keep it stock, great sub back then and still holds it's own today, just older technology. You will need to call tech support and the person you speak with will generate a case number and get you over to the RA dept. Send the control panel along with the amp ***'y, service will check everything as a combo
  13. The SW series has been around for 10 + years now, I rarely get calls on them. The amp was rated at 150 nom, 189 peak. Take a look at Parts Express sub amp with adj. eq. Bump about 4 dB or so at 30Hz, you may need to fine tune a bit. Don't bump anything below 30, you don't want to over drive the woofer. I know we still service this amp, but at $240 repair charge, you may want to look at 300-804 at Parts Express, that amp has adj eq settings and @ 170 into 8, that should be fine. The SW-12/15 series was a simple circuit but difficult and time consuming to trace, reason for the charge. Power outages are not friendly to electronics, All my gear, except my KW-1000 and 2007 amps, plugged into a pair of UPS Tripp Lites. Power flickered a bit ago, not even a flinch except the lights came on both to let me know. I can not realy suggest running an amp off of one, but I never had an issue
  14. About 3 1/2 years ago a recording studio called me, they had 6 Cornwall's from about 1968 or 70. The Heresy should be fine, as well as the Cornwall, any series I's, II's or III's. I am a bigger fan of the I's and III;s though, just my pref.
  15. Ok this makes no sense to me but here are the results. Same 70hz sine wave signal as before AVR volume @ appx. 25% RSW-12 gain at 100% = 91db Volume control disconnected = 80db If the volume control disconnected should result in max output why is the subs ouput in this configuration so much lower than with it connected and the volume control all the way up? I will check into this Monday morning and get back to you on that, I should have said "should" not "will", I know for sure this happns with the RW subs and they use the same vol as the RSW. I don't have the schematics here to double check this
  16. no problem Steve, I was just pointing out what was said as a lot read this forum and I wanted to explain what we suggested. We will try and figure this out. Not always an easy task without having everything related together in one place. Like asking the auto dealer to figure somethign out without having the auto there to test. I took my car in the last day of warranty, but the tech found nothing wrong with my auto tranny, but he does not drive the car everyday and at that moment he found no problem. I am still not certian it's right...but I will see. Let me know what happens if you disconnect the vol control, if there is a problem with the control the sub will operate as if the vol was at max. rare to have a problem with the control, but never say never. I will try to keep an eye on this thread, but at the moment I have my projector in my lap all apart cleaning the color wheel and lens......it was dirty big time, film all over it. The things you have to put up with when wanting a 106" screen. It should result in a "new" picture....
  17. Steve, not what I said in an email to you. "his techs felt that I had just been unlucky so far and should just hook it up and not worry. " What I said.....""Our tech says he could not say for sure where the problem is or if what was suggested had a direct baring on the possible problem, he had no answer. The first amp/control you were shipped was a repair unit. What you received this time was brand new amp and control. The first preamp control shipped may have been the problem and according to tech, use it (the sub with new amp and control) You should be fine now." Pull the control panel and disconnect the lead from the vol control on the preamp board, it's the one with 3 wires. Now make sure you turn the gain in the HK down all the way before sending a signal to the sub. With the vol control disconnected, the sub will operate at full vol. Let me know what happens. The only thing not new in this sub is the passive vol control ( rare for this to be a problem) and the cabinet it self.........let me know DC spikes should be blocked in the sub. There is a cap internal that filters DC from the internal amp. It's a 25 volt cap and have a hard time seeing more than 25 v coming from a transit, but never say never. If the amp/control panel are out again, it may verywell be the HK spike you suggested to me in an email. Hard to say for sure.
  18. I have the THX Ultra 2 pair up front, left and right of my center channel. Do to weak bass in the second row of seating, I have a RT-12d in the back corner. Stage One set to 60Hz do to a suck-out starting at 75 going to 65Hz. With all speakers set to small, it works great, no more dip. Both the KA-1000 and the RT-12 are Y'ed off the S 1' sub out This is in a 23 x 14 room............................... multi subs? They are the way to go. Low end a plenty.
  19. It's plug and play, just remove the screws and the woofer connections should be push on. I do not believe Parts has a replacement any longer, but check there first. 800-554-7724 option 3. If they do not then try this web site for woofer repair. http://www.nealspeakerrepair.com/ They are located in Sacramento
  20. send an email to technicalsupport@klipsch.com and we can send you what we have. We do not support the remotes or trouble shoot any problems you encounter with the programing of the remote. If you have the Philips Pronto, Universal Remote or an RTI remote that requires connection to a PC for programing, we have the zip files for those UEI manufactures remotes http://www.uei.com Under products you should notice One-For-All, Kameleon and Nevo. The code that should work for these is 1991 for the IR Reference subs Please note, this should be for all UEI remotes, but not sure when our codes will be incorporated across the board.
  21. This is from Klipsch research, April 1960 Transition to the K-33-J (Jensen) from the EV 15WK Sept 1967 Transition to the K-33-M. The records are not clear as to the origin of this driver, but believed to be an Eminence driver with an Alnico Magnet Jan 1968 Transition to the K-33-P (CTS Paducah KY) 1975 Transition to the K-33-B (CTS Brownsville TX) 1975?-1979 K-33-E (Eminence) and the K-33-B were used interchangeably. Records are not specific about the actual start date for the K-33-E, but it is believed to be early to mid 1970's. My 1977 K-Horns have the square magnet K-33-E's, never been out of the cabinets that I am aware of.
  22. Here is a differnt thought and opinion......Heresy III on the sides if you have a good place for em. Any H would be fine, but I work here so please buy new. The room is wide enough for a direct rad to work well. I would lean a bit more to the RS-62 than the KS-525-THX if you go WDST, but either would be fine. The 62 handels more nom power and 1 dB hotter spl than the 525, not that it's an issue. I was happy with the RS-7 WDST's when I used my Horns and LS center. I did not have a place for the Heresy. The HF of the Ref has a nice detail to them. Before WDST's came out, I used direct rad's for a long time. In rooms from 12' to 16' wide. Place em about 6 feet off the floor to the bottoms with the width you have.
  23. 1977 CW I's is what they are, I'd pay that for em. Good find it they are in good to really good condition. We miss our 81's we sold 4 years ago for $850, in fare condition
  24. Sorry if my suggestions seemed to point away from using the fire box, you seem to be concerned about low end. The Fire box's sealed design would help tighten the lower end, but may limit the lowest frequencies. I am fully aware of the capabilities of this speaker in open air environments for which it was designed. The fire box will limit unwanted mids/lows in the ceiling area and from the floor above by about 10db. The box seems to be the best suggestion here. One thing I would suggest, set the 5800-C back surrounds to "small", it really does not need a full range signal. 50 watts nominal rating. Just a suggestion and an opinion. Check with an install or Reference dealer about purchasing the ME-800-C
  25. I have not had my hands on one yet, no excuse, it does come with a tile bridge. I was concerened by the weight of the box plus the speaker and even with an 1 1/2 less on each side. Doesn't sound like much, but something I may not suggest, needs to sit in the grid, not just close.
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