001

yes you can apply more oak stain to darken them... but oak stains are usually a different color tone than walnut, oaks are just tanish browns, walnut gets a orangeish red hue to it. i would do like tigerwood mentioned, buy some of the smaller cans of stain & look at the board of colors they usually have in the stain isle, i think a true walnut stain will be a better match to the walnut speakers, even though the grains will obviously be different. test on the bottom board to see what looks best before doing the top & sides.

Scotchrite ? LOL. never heard of that. "scotchbrite" was a early morning typo/brainfart. i will go ahead & edit the post for you though, just like you do to so many of yours...

i would trust eminence too. i posted the other stuff as a suggestion before scotchGARD was mentioned.

im sure you know but the grains will not match & when you stain oak the grain can get darker in areas where walnut has a more even smooth grain so the color stays more consistent. a walnut colored stain from minwax or other brands should get them as close as possible color wise. follow the instructions on teh can & they will probably need a light sanding after applying it since stains will usually raise the grain & as i mentioned oak is probably he worst for that. another product is howards restore-a-finish or watco rejuvinating oil in walnut or dark walnut, that wont be as strong as real stain so might be a little more mild on the color. any product you use will get darker the longer it sits or the more coats are applied.

im sure scotch guard would work too, but the stuff i have always used is just shoe/leather/fabric water protector. i bought a bottle from foot locker that was $5 years ago when i bought a new pair of shoes but i have used other brands like this one as well on a leather coat & suede type hiking boots. https://www.target.com/p/kiwi-protect-all-waterproofer-spray-bottle-4-25oz/-/A-13290940

i would think some of the spray on water proof stuff for shoes/boots or leather coats would work good, its not a silicone or has any heavy ingredients to change the weight of the woofer etc. dries fast & doesnt change the color of anything ive used it on for decades... but as with anything like this its a good idea to test on a small area or on a bad woofer before using it on good ones.

not too familiar with the GSA's, they are an older ac-3 surround processor meant to be added to an existing 2ch system to provide surround sound. i had a smaller version i bought used/untested many years ago... sure enough it was dead & wouldnt produce sound. sold it for parts on ebay for what i paid, about $100. i stick with the original GFA 5xx series 2 amps, the later 5000 series mosfet models are supposed to be pretty good too but ive never owned one.

forte/quartet for size/price/WAF. many other bigger models like chorus, epic cf3/4, cornwall etc. or if size price dont matter K-horn then jubilee at the top. many very nice pro models too.

bummer... thats not normal for 5802s or adcoms in general. i have owned almost 10 different adcom GFA-555ii amps & lots of their other amps & gear over the years & never had a single issue with them, running them hard or bridged or low to medium power on efficient klipsch speakers. adcom is know to be very reliable except for a couple models of amps like the GFA 565/585 that had some leaky caps or bad PCBs. a used 555ii for ~$400 is one of the best value/sounding amps there is IMO.

why do the caps need to be replaced? ive read a few members here state these mylar caps never go bad...

here is a older link regarding spike/feet for KLFs. in one of the pics in the first post from "crunchman" you can see the spikes i was talking about, they have a very coarse thread that just screws into the raw wood of the cabinet. i thought those were what i have seen on some KLFs & what were on my epic CF4 v2 speakers, klipsch must have changed the style of the spikes/feet at some point on some models to the threaded metal insert. post a wanted ad for the correct style spikes/feet or keep an eye out on ebay... or if you dont care about originality just buy some spikes/feet from parts express with the correct thread pitch for the inserts. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/189653-found-looking-for-klf20-feet-epic-cf-3-cf-4-are-the-same/

best placement is on the floor in or near corners for best bass. ive read a lot about the "ear level" thing & never found much of a noticeable difference for large tower speakers like this when youre seated 9-10ft back from the speakers. when seated that far back you can look at the tweeter horn & they are almost at eye/ear level, add to that the angle of t he horn & you are getting 99% of the sound directly at you, moving a few inches to get perfectly level will have minimal benefits for mid/tweet freq in my experience. but raising them 12" on stands will noticeably reduce the bass. as for the loose boards, play some bass heavy music with the volume up loud & you should hear the vibrations on the bass beats, listen on the back side too. i have been able to push on the back board with my hand & stop or reduce the noise. ive had 2 pair of kg5.5 with this issue & helped a friend with some KLFs, also had some klipsch subs do it. easiest fix without removing the boards was to use gorilla glue on the inside seams, that stuff will get into any nooks & crannies & seal up the boards solid, other glues like liquid nails or other construction adhesives or wood glue will work too but GG will expand & force its ways into any gaps & its cheap & has many other uses. $5 for a bottle at walmart. play around with placement positions & determine what sounds best to you in your room. KGs are great speakers & probably the best value to performance of any vintage klipsch models.

the plastic or metal feet do NOT go into the covers, the metal spikes insert into the holes in the bottom of the speaker cabinet, then the plastic covers are optional depending on the type of floor the speakers will be on, metal spikes are usually for carpet to couple the speaker to the floor better, the plastic covers are used for hardwood or tile etc to protect from damage. can you post a pic so we can see what youre dealing with? metal bolts screwed into the bottoms is not original from the factory on KLFs as far as im aware but pics will help determine whats going on. also the feet in the link i sent are for KG or older kg subs, the KLF use the same type of metal spike & plastic cover but im pretty sure they have a very coarse threaded body that inserts into the wood, the KG type in the ebay link just press into the hole with no threads. hope that makes sense.

KLF use a metal spike with plastic covers. probably best to post a wanted ad for the KLF feet in the garage sale section of the forum... or check ebay as they do come up for sale often. heres a link to the older KG style spikes but shows what the plastic covers look like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275348486638?hash=item401c0c79ee:g:HIAAAOSwx7Bip6lG

x3 or 4 on good quality SS amps. ive talked with flevoman quite a bit about his system upgrades going from the chorus to his now CW4 & new fancy expensive tube amp... but along the way we discussed amps & possibly even subs when he had the chorus. he found a cheap priced older onkyo integrated amp with 100 watts per channel & he liked some aspects of it but felt his upgraded recapped dynaco tube amp sounded better in other ways. so his experience with SS amps is limited to a 100w 30+ year old onkyo integrated, which is decent but more of a run of the mill mid fi 90s amp. i mentioned a few other brands & that to make the chorus really come alive at higher volumes & harder rock/metal music they will benefit from a good quality 200 watt amp. not that they will ever actually see that full 200 watts but having the reserve power or "headroom" makes a big difference over lower quality SS. another spec to consider on higher quality SS amps is the damping factor, mid fi amps & receivers usually have around 60 DF, his onkyo states 100... adcom GFA 555ii has 800 & my rotel 990bx has 1000 damping factor rating. higher power amps also usually have much better bass at low or high volumes. using a good pre amp helps a lot too, i think i recall he has a NAD pre, for me, especially with some bigger klipsch models up loud, they can benefit from tone controls or an EQ to tailor certain freq to your liking, up loud in a smaller room K-horns & other big 3 ways can get too hot in the midrange for my taste so a good pre with mid freq tone controls helps a lot, so does boosting the lower bass at lower volumes. i agree with the 200watts SS amp of good quality suggestions for anything but a very small room listening to lower volume softer music. each system, room & person will like different things & you cant rule out an SS amp vs tube when the only SS amp listened to is a lower watt mid fi amp that is in unknown condition.

for my 2 ch system i use an adcom pre, gtp-500ii.

i have a few SS amps i swap around but the main one i use the most is the adcom gfa555ii on my chorus 2 & many previous klipsch models i own/owned. i have a rotel rb-990bx i like a lot too, both are 200watt per channel amps. i also have an onkyo M-504 165 watt per ch amp that sounds very good, but the adcom has the best bass of them all & capable of higher volumes.

no. none of the cornwall drivers are the same as chorus 2.

"Q: How about break in time for drivers or new driver diaphragms? A: Yes, and depends on the size of the driver. Tweeter diaphragm probably break-in at a matter of seconds. They are very low mass and move very little, so any break in would happen almost instantly. Probably happened when the factory tested the diaphragm after manufacture. Midrange are a bit bigger and have a bit more mass. Break-in is probably on the order of minutes with these. Woofers would take the longest. I think that break-in on a 12 to 15 inch woofer would be less than an hour played at pretty good volume using music with a lot of low frequency content." -Bob Crites

nice find, im not familiar with the icon models. def tech uses the 6x9 woofers like that in their mythos line.

KGs & KLF had pretty common cabinet issues, its the glue they used that failed along with cheaper construction than heritage era models. should be able to press firmly on the rear panel when its vibrating to determine if its the rear panel & roughly where on the panel its loose, do teh same on teh front panel to see if thats loose too. 2 ways to fix it, easiest is to scrape out the old glue from inside seams then use a good strong glue like gorilla glue or a PL or liquid nails construction adhesive & apply it on all the inner seams, i have done this a few times on KGs & klipsch subs as well as other brands using gorilla glue & its worked excellent, made the cabinets stronger than they ever were from the factory. 2nd way is to actually remove the rear panel (& front if its loose) & reglue it with either of the mentioned glues or a good wood glue.

are you sure thats a klipch speaker? kinda hard to see the logo & they dont look like any klipsch speaker ive ever seen... looks more like a definitive tech mythos speaker.

in the case of one pair of the many chorusii i have owned, it wasnt the change to poly caps that made the difference, the speakers sounded like a towel was covering them, no crisp mid or highs & muddy bass. the other 2 pairs i owned at the same time with stock caps sounded great. so something caused the mylar caps in that set to fail, i didnt measure them nor was i capable of measuring ESR, im sure just replacing with the same stock mylar caps would have had the same results. the original mylar caps were bad either from age or use/abuse from the previous owner but he said he never listened overly loud & he was an older guy that listened to classical or softer type music so i dont think their history caused it. i trust what mr crites has said about caps & many other things in general about audio, like caps dont "break in" nor do tweeters & smaller drivers etc. to claim mylar caps dont ever go bad is false based on my experience & many others who have reported improvements in sound when replacing 25-30 year old caps in these era of speakers, even when using the same type of mylar caps, so that shows that mylar caps can & do fall out of spec. the difference in sound or quality of poly vs mylar caps is a touchy subject around here, some claim mylar are the best caps ever made & you absolutely must use "authorized" caps or else your speakers arent klipsch anymore & that poly caps are cheap snake oil... LOL.

mylar caps can degrade with age/use too. i have replaced original caps in chorus2 & forte 2 as well as other brands of speakers with budget poly caps that made a very noticeable improvement. electrolytic caps in most 2 & 3 way klipsch speakers are in the woofer circuit, they dont keep low freq out of the midrange as far as im aware but i could be wrong. the mylar caps filter the LF from the midrange & tweeter.

i dont have a tube pre... but have used 200wpc adcom GFA 555ii on K-horns as well as a 200wpc rotel, both are great "mid-fi" amps that get excellent reviews & compete with more expensive amps, they both sound excellent on high efficiency klipsch speakers. currently using the adcom with chorus2 & SVS subs. have also used an onkyo M504 @ 165wpc, very nice warm sounding amp. as mentioned above, high power amps can work great for high efficiency speakers, having reserve power for if/when you need it is much better than running a lower power amp close to its peak/clipping power. reserve power/headroom is a good thing.