Dave A

It can be easy at times to break that tiny little lead wire from the spade end connection. You pull and wiggle to get the lead off and can break that wire if the spade end swivels to much. Some of those rivets are not done real well. Bending the leads getting them in and out can also do this so be careful when you fiddle with these. The Ti diaphragm will not sound the same as the OEM phenolic one did. Simply Speakers sells a phenolic diaphragm for these. Klipsch Replacement Speaker Diaphragm K75, K76, K78, K79, 127103, D-417 Klipsch may also sell the phenolic ones too and I have never checked to see.

I have five of those I threw in the scrap metal hopper. Re-conning is a problem in getting OEM spec kits to work with. The people I spoke to about them could not tell me the TS parameters of the K-45 so how were they going to be able to verify what they used was correct? I honestly don't know what small variances in re-conning kits would do to the sound and maybe those generic kits will work good enough. Simply Speakers comes to mind here.

Lucky winner gets 4 cans from some Crites crossovers. Values are uf and uf.

Along with other things.

Bonus prize for lucky winner is four GE cans I found during cleanup today. These came off a Crites crossover. Values are uf and uf.

I bought a whole pickup truck of paint from Sherwin Williams one time. Expensive stuff but not the right color for various reasons. I got it mainly because there was some paint I wanted and others that said they wanted some too at that price. The grief I caught with that because it was "not the right color" or "only two gallons of it" and on and on. What the heck if it is the same type of paint go and get them to tint it or mix it all together and live with it. They were getting, and this was 15 years ago prices, up to $50 a gallon paint for $5 a gallon. I never did that again and was left wondering if they were secretly mad because I did not offer to deliver the paint and do the painting for them too.

No difference. Personally if I wanted black I would paint the aluminum ones. Yeah I guess you could paint the wood too but buying wood is, to me anyway, a choice made for esthetics.

One of the key things that make these work well is the mouth of the horn is flush with the front of the motorboard. Only you can decide if esthetics of looks trumps esthetics of sound. Personally if I was worried I would paint them black and go from there. Nice looking set of speakers by the way as I happen to like the Pro look.

Values marked on the sides of enough of them to get the general idea and no I am not going to fiddle with a cap by cap value list. In general even if the caps measure OK for reuse I put new in anyway figuring that it buys the new owner an additional 20+ years of good cap life. The newest speakers I tend to work on start around 2000 and go back from there. I did measure for capacitance and ESR until I determined that especially in ESR I did not like the values I read from these and so I just quit. I replace them all now. These caps were mentioned strictly for that small group of people who expressed interest in them in other cap threads.

It's called UShip Rudy and you don't have to drive. Getting ready to send another set of speakers off this way and so far with great success. Much cheaper than driving and you get them delivered to your front door by people who seem to care.

Well as the poster for the item in question the value to me is obviously zero. I replace all old capacitors. The offer was to those who might want them for any reason and some have expressed interest in these in the past. Some really old WW2 metal can caps have some value to collectors who want them for whatever reason. I personally would never use these in crossovers though some do measure OK for use.

Where possible. I had tried giving away a pile of input cups too a while back and no takers. Lucky me since I needed a fuse holder for a set of KPT-456's last week. No fear on the capacitors though as they have been replaced with new.

Be patient Nicky. These are rare big pro gear rigs and when the right person sees it you will get that.

Some of you have mentioned you save those old Klipsch capacitors. I have saved a small pile of them and if you want them pay for postage and I will send them. I might have more to dig up if there is any interest.

I wonder more about how they were used over their life then the age. I have had plenty of woofers and horn drivers of the same type newer and older and they sounded the same unless there was a problem. Now I will say that with a K-55-V driver I had one time it never did sound right. Frequency swept and ohm checked OK but did not sound right. Talking to Crites about this and hating the idea of ordering $$$$ diaphragms for them. He mentioned they had some that acted the same way and all they could figure was there was some degradation they could not measure that did happen at times.

I think he changed it when he got promoted from 50 cents to 62 cents.

Hmmm, having to rethink things here. When the whole systems approach includes bean counters perhaps the best that can be expected is optimization of what they allow you to work with.

I have not seen the inside of the latest La Scala's but I will say this. If Roy is putting foam in there it is part of a whole system approach and another piece of the puzzle that includes cabinet, drivers and crossovers designed to work together. Putting foam in older LS's may or may not do the same thing. One thing that will work with all pre 1" sides is the dog house bracing. Of all potential modifications this one has the biggest return for the money spent BY FAR. You might not like the look but you will like the sound. I never let a set go from here without doing something about the side wall resonance. These will also reduce dog house resonance at the same time. I was going to say stop the resonance but there will always be some. It makes a dramatic improvement and there is a picture floating around the forum of PK doing just that. I would love to know why they were never incorporated into the design by him.

Admittedly I never know how hard speakers are pushed before I get them to work on. There is more than one reason I do not like electrolytic caps and working on a crossover this past weekend reminds me of another one. I have yet to see one of the poly caps do this but I have pulled more than a few of these off boards. Rest of the components are fine and on the Chorus and 301 crossovers it is always this one that fails in this fashion. Thought I would add to this just in case someone wondered why I posted this. This got so hot it is swollen at both ends and part of the plastic side melted. And of course it measured very poorly.

I hear in CA it is "like wiire dude, totally gnarly"

In the end are you happy with what you hear and had fun getting there? That is the important thing. We will all pile on with our opinions and comments though because wire and capacitors demand we do so.

Unless the wire is 8g and 54.5" long all superior sonic ability is lost. Quote from famous audio engineer and designer Jeffrey Medwin who has extensive research done on this very topic.. They say wire in the upper midwest. They say whyuhh in New Jersey and they say waarr in the south. Which sounds better? ;D

On this specific speaker the improvement is inevitable and often is pretty amazing in what a recap will do. I stick an Audyn 68uf cap on there and not one of those electrolytics. Just got done working on a KP-301 which is very similar where that electrolytic cap was swollen and the plastic melted off part of the side. I would not loosen those screws as the input cup crossover might be real tight to get in and out but I have never had much trouble doing so. If you do then remove the woofer so you can tighten them back up. This is assuming they were tight when you removed them and that you loosened them for re-assembly.

Well today I unloaded what I got the other day. A set of KPT-456 with road gear package and covers from RAM audio years ago. A set of KP-301-2's with 115 subwoofers under them in virtually like new appearance. No I am not kidding. A mismatched set of KP-301-1's I need to work on. Opened one up today with rat fur on it I am going to pull off. Must have been re-coned as the cloth surround has no sealer on it like someone forgot to finish the job. And one of those nasty electrolytic caps I despise sitting there with a bulged end and had been hot enough to melt the plastic cover and hot melt glue. I see more of these in pro gear then anywhere but fail they do. Really happy to play with 456's again though they wont stay here long since they were spoken for before I got them. Last good two way meant for main sound and side fill with no Dolby junk. Mo bettah then 904's

Which is correct. All the older 2.5cm tweeter lenses have the same size and shape and only the motor is different and perhaps the diaphragm too. The more modern 2.5cm tweeter first appeared in the KP-301-2 if I remember right but all of them fit the same size cutout. There are no K-79's listed right now at any price.