Dave A

Those are not Klipsch handles and I bet this is an aftermarket alteration. Looks like a K-43 in there so yes a nice beefy woofer. Looks like nice work though.

I have at least five of these that are not broken or chipped. I am not going to use these as they are too fragile but if someone is interested they can have them for $15 each FREE and PICK UP ONLY!!. I am NOT going to even try to send these because the amount of packing to get them safely to the other end is not worth it to me. These are crude, I mean really crude compared to the later models. This is a limited time offer and soon I might just give them to the speaker place where all parts go to die if they are still here. If you are interested be forewarned that slight overtightening of a screw will cause pieces to spall out or the mounting flange to break.

The only other driver I have tried is the B&C DE75's I have on hand. I read good stuff about those Faitals but for some reason thought they were discontinued and only want to try things I know I can replace with current production. My experience with 2" drivers is not all that great but I am starting to get more serious.

A question I ask myself at times namely what really matters. The fabled K-55 soldered lug drivers measure better in the mid range I believe but I have never noticed a dramatic improvement over a good condition K-55-V. I have a handful of K-55-V and M's here that don't sound all that good and I wonder what new diaphragms would do and how many of these old drivers we all have been using are not right but still OK. New diaphragms are just a tad over half the price of a whole new driver and that rules them out for me. The new Atlas drivers are priced at $300 a pair just like those 1981 Soldered Lugs are but no wear and tear. When my last soldered lugs are gone I will probably go with new Atlas drivers if I am doing rebuilds. I have people over here that can hear details I can't any more but they have never noticed any wonderful things worth remarking on with soldered lugs.

Yeah John Allen saved a few bucks getting these done overseas. I wonder what he thinks of that choice now? I have thought about these drivers and kind of figured I would get Atlas and that the difference is not enough to get excited about.

You who are thinking of getting some better act quickly. Looking at some stuff at Bob's site today and he mentioned that when they run out of these it may be MAY 2021 before they have more. They are concerned about Italian drivers also so be aware if you want to do some thing do it soon or be prepared to wait. As much as I like B&C this is causing me to look at Eminence more closely in the next few months.

Looking for these two items and also five K-45 woofers if anyone has some.

Yes on at least three versions.

Thanks for the info and the reminder to do the battery check.

I can imagine some of the conversations Cory has had. Sold an SMAHL to an individual recently who is a smart guy but had no mechanical aptitude. I finally had to get him to send pictures to me of his problem. There are four screw holes on the DE-120. A set of three on one side and a single on the other. He was trying to make the three holes on the driver match three holes in the clamp plate and had real trouble visualizing using just the two holes 180 degrees apart. I don't know why but some peoples minds just go blank when a mechanical item is put before them.

Good to see the Jubes for sale like this.

Center bracing for me as it seems to do what I want and looks balanced. The other alternative requires much more work and that is to take a rubber mallet and beat the sides off and replace them with 25mm Baltic Birch. Both methods accomplish the same thing but replacing the sides looks much better.

OK I never thought about that but resistors in series add up so that makes sense. Before I do anything with these I am going to try the above suggestion for hookup and then I have a horn and some B&C DE-1095's I want to try on them. The DE-1095 is a 280 watt driver and I have used it with a horn lens elsewhere and have hope it might work here too.

What I know and respect is Boneheads proven knowledge which he demonstrates with the products he designs and his willingness to share that knowledge. I am no expert just a serious dabbler but one thing I do know is who to listen too. Why don't you start over as Travis suggests and begin a thread and not be so certain you are the only one who knows speakers. No one likes a smug know it all.

Well the other option is to get the new DATS measuring thingy from PE and then look for a close match from Eminence. If these woofers are like the ones in the 904's even when you have them cranked up loud the excursion is not much so I don't know how much worry that is. The cubic feet may be another story though but until I have a way to get the Thiel parameters of the driver I won't know. Looking like I will get DATS very soon. Talking with Bill H the other day and he mentioned that the 415 was split to run off two channels so the amps could run 4 ohm. Taking them and using a jumper would make it a 2 ohm so that is a problem also. I did that with my only trial run playing these and it did not sound to exciting and I wonder if it was driving that Crown XLI800 too hard.

Just what are your proven credentials that your opinion carries more weight in the real world than Boneheads? Audiogon is looking for you. They misplaced you and want to know where you are.

Wondering about using the top and bottom woofers instead of all four. Thinking to cap of the left and right middle pair and then also blanking one of the triangular ports on the bottom. Four woofers provide way more SPL than I need for a great system so my thought is rather than buying some woofers at $300 a pop to replace missing or damaged ones maybe I should just convert these into two woofer units and have spares. Has anyone done this?

Hmmmm, Okaaayy.

That is an interesting topic all on it's own. I had some Chinese and some true Baltic Birch in the shop at the same time. You could take a piece of each and tap it with your knuckle and there was a dramatic difference in the sound you heard. Talking to a speaker guy in Nashville one day and he mentioned a friend who built speakers for pro use preferring 1.25" Poplar plywood for motorboards because he liked the tone they gave. Some of the old Chorus speakers I have had were Poplar motorboards also and I wonder if the choice was price or tone + price. The idea that cabinets have to be braced to dampen resonance also implies that no matter what we do some resonance will be a part of every box built and then you have to determine how to eliminate what you don't want. Wood suitable for the best stringed acoustic instruments is carefully selected so what is heard when played produces sound at or better than certain critical standards. Now I know acoustic stringed instruments are also their own stand alone "amplifier" but just like people go crazy over warm and mellow and musical characteristics of electronic amps I think the same can be true for wood choices. In the only real test to compare the two mediums namely BB or MDF I have only tried this with La Scalas. I have heard the MDF La Scalas. I have also heard some La Scalas where I have beaten off the 3/4 plywood sides and replaced them with true 25mm BB and the MDF does not win. Now above and beyond all the durability stuff what I also prefer with BB is I like how it sounds.

I have 9-904 bass bins, 6-415 bass bins and some KPT-450 horns in the shop right now and not one is BB. Now Klipsch might use Birch veneered plywood but I have never had a Klipsch speaker made of true BB. I have heard reports of some out there but in all I have handled not one. JBL is a mystery to me as the ones I have heard are not good. They must have a great sales team though. I was picking up a bunch of speakers from Rescue Audio in St Louis a couple of years ago. Tim had mentioned a rare JBL speaker he could not sell and so he had stripped the drivers out and was going to dump the cabinet. In the mean time we start loading my goodies on the trailer while his labor guys are disposing of the JBL cabinet. THUMP is what we hear and then OH WOW! OK we all want to know what OH WOW is so we go and look. The big box they had heaved into the dumpster had neatly dis-assembled itself and lay there in pieces. Maybe the permanent install JBL's are MDF but I can't imagine touring or non-permanent install people being thrilled with them. Maybe they all are I don't know and not interested enough to go look up JBL as I really don't like what they make.

Regular plywood though right? Think of all the money they wasted by not using consistent but more expensive up front wood such as Baltic Birch. Wonder how much they lost saving money buying the cheap stuff. While I have not cut tons of BB what I have cut has been void free.

No actually I don't think that. I think they were told to cut costs however they reasonably could and still achieve a certain level of sound and appearance quality. Now prove me wrong and you have to come up with more than sales literature quotes.

Wonder what his threshold for stupid lowball prices he won't respond to will eventually be. I am thinking of fixing up my set and listing them with major work done for 2G and I am sure he will love that.

Went back with the Klipsch OEM crossovers yesterday on these. Decided to dump the 510 Ist gen horns I have and the clones and use 2" Throat Horn Bolt-On 18"x10"For Assorted Bolt On 2"Exit Drivers 90°x 40°(398) | eBay instead. Also stuck a Zoebel circuit on the back of the DE-75 drivers using a 20ohm resistor and 15uf capacitor and it sounds pretty darned good. This larger horn is better sounding than the 510 clone with Klipsch OEM crossover and the Zoebel as described above. I have no doubt this could be improved on but I can also live with these results. Reminds me a lot of the KPT-456 which I had high regards for now. I will be trashing all those old brittle 510's and since the bigger horn sounds better than the 510 clone and is the same basic price will be sticking with the big horn.

8 ohm driver Dean. It's a B&C DE-75