Dave A

I am kind of a cringey guy. You do bring up a good point though I have had decades of watching metal flow so I have no fear of excessive heat input on what I do but I can't speak for others skill level. I am trying to remember if there was space under those boards to get the soldering iron in there as I certainly like that method to.

Show and tell never happened but the few who did see it liked it. It was a lot of trouble to do and I have not made up my mind if I am interested in making more. This was donated to the Klipsch museum with the instructions to auction it off and keep the funds. I have no idea what their plans are but it is theirs and might be the only set I do.

I thought that's why the old Heresy's had the plys showing at the corners so the sound could bleed out that way.

I'm with Rick. Way to much for those and if you are going to seriously mod them, like maybe make Super Heresy's in time, the I's are the ones to get. If you are going to leave them basically stock I prefer the K-55-V mid driver on the HI's but the H2's and up have a better tweeter. Personally I only get the HI's to fiddle with. If Cory had some B stock Heresy's and you want to spend that kind of money the new versions are the best of them all by a pretty big margin. I am a cheapskate though and like to fool with rebuilds.

Leave the old leads in place and as much of them as you can. Then take the new cap and by eyeball cut one ends lead and put a 180 degree bend in it with enough past the bend to bend it tightly over the one lead sticking up. Then do the same at the other end and the trick here is to keep the trimmed and bent new cap leads short enough that you can snug it down into the spot where the old hot melt glue was. It makes kind of a cradle for the new cap to sit in. You are soldering close to the capacitor so you want to get on and off quickly to keep heat input low. If you are new to soldering practice first before you do this. If you can wait a week or two I have been thinking about making a video on doing this and posting it on my old CAD design channel on Youtube. Word of caution on removing old caps. Do so as gently as you can. Some of those are really stuck on there and you do not want to damage the PC board, Poly caps have no polarity.

Say Mookie you DO know that's not the right kind of stuff to use when building high quality speakers right? There are studies out there proving layers confuse sound waves and they don't know if they should be going up and down or left to right or both.

I will get exact info later to post as I have somewhere to go and no time.

I am hoping someone here knows where to go for the 10000uf 100VDC capacitor. It is a Mepco/Centralab C-6485-4.

There is no difference on the internal dimensions as far as I know. This was never built and was based on the basic Ls Scala plans out there everywhere. I would redo this if I were to build it so the pieces would all cut out of a 60" x 60" sheet of Baltic. One thing I did do is rebuild a set of bass bins and used 25mm Baltic for the sides and 18mm for the rest but made the bass bin 3" deeper to protect the point on the doghouse which is always getting beaten up. It was a nice sounding set.

Hey Edgar remember insufficient heat from your soldering iron will cause more problems than one that gets to hot. A good one flows solder quickly and you get on and get off quickly.

See Dean it was a safety measure and I did not want any tech's to get lacerated on sharp cable tie thingies.

Right and next time I do one I will post a picture of the old cap removal and wire hookup on the new one before soldering.

And last but not least the Heresy I's are the ones to get for modification into Super Heresy's which will get you most of the way back to Cornwall bass thump.

I thought one could never have enough. Wasn't it Rockefeller who when asked how many speakers were enough he said just one more?

Look you don't need to take that apart just clip the existing cap leads as close as you can to the capacitor end and solder your new caps in to those. On the 68uf cap I just zip tie a big ol poly cap o the top of the upper pc board, with some protection on the bottom of the cap, mainly the loop side of velcro, You do not need to take that old crossover apart. Yes getting them in and out can be tight but you will figure that out. I have a picture of one of my recaps jobs above did you not see that?

Klipch makes the Jubilee so not sure what you mean. What you are getting since you asked for advice is advice on what various people who have heard these differing speakers have to say about relative sound quality in their eyes. You can hardly expect people to not tout their favorites when that is what you asked for. Personally speaking I would not stop at the Jubilee and would move up the food chain to monster cinema speakers which are another whole world of audio quality. But then my wife assures me I am not right and maybe that is true. I go through a lot of speakers each year and have two LSI's and an LS in the shop right now and they are OK. We heard the new Heresys, Fortes, La Scalas, Cornwalls and Jubilees the other weekend. The new Cornwalls sounded much, yes I used that word, better to me than the LS did. But once again it is all opinion and until you hear them in person you only have what you have heard to go by. Listen to a variety of speakers before you plunk your money down or suffer buyers remorse later when you go somewhere and hear something better you will wish you had bought instead.

There were a number of us that heard the newest La Scala and Jubilee in Hope the other weekend. I think it is safe to say none would put the La Scala as being even close to the Jube. Yes and I am getting double posts sometimes lately.

It's all that brown water you guys have been talking about for weeks doing it.

It is hard to compare La Scalas to Jubes When you don't hear one half of the equation. I am betting the Jubes were not pretty enough since what he was looking for is overwhelmingly the domain of the Jubes. He never mentioned a real budget either so that may have been the clincher, who knows.

You just had to go there Eldon.

++ 100% and my exact journey also. And you don't have to have expensive tubes to have sound that will blow you away just a good amp will do. Remember that xilica can tailor a lot of things and I figure my $225 Crown xli800's do just fine. I don't think the less than towering improvement TADs bring to the table for the cost involved are worth it. The last 5% of possible improvement will be 90% or more of your total cost and I bet you will be thrilled forgetting about that last 5%. Save your money and learn how to use Audacity.

I am a minimalist sort of two channel guy. I had to be dragged kicking and screaming into active crossovers but with a 106" horn length there was no choice. I feed a high def signal from my PC right into a Xilica and then two Crown xli800's and then to my speakers. I am finding using Audacity to fix my music files + the bare minimum of electronic gear yields tremendous benefit and don't go any further. The trick is to use the least amount of stuff to arrive at a desired quality level in my book. I am beginning to think the desire to further complicate things stems from either not optimizing what you already have right or an attempt to band aide over the deficiencies of a system without identifying exactly what was the weak link causing problems to begin with.

Yup that's what I am too but I see I am keeping good company ;D

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Scary isn't it. I just don't get it.