Dave A

Yes but no pics no price and no location.

Per Claude's suggestion I switched the 2uf mid capacitor for a 4uf and unwound the 2.5mh coil to 1.5uf. If you do not have a meter this is right at 109" of wire you take off. I thought at first they were a bit muddy but when I put the tweeter at sitting ear level the definition was much better. Before I had them sitting on a set of La Scalas and they were up to high. The bass is startling from a box that small and if you don't have the space for a Cornwall or Chorus this is a great substitute. I have a small belt 3/4" wide belt belt sander and I used it to bevel the inside of the woofer cutout as the cloth surround will hit it in heavy bass and sound like crap. It is a project well worth doing if you already have that Heresy I sitting there. I would not do it with the later Heresy's since they do not have the K-55-V K700 horn and are not plywood.

Well it's even better than that. I happen to have a single Forte II and a single KP-301 and he has been invited to hear them both since it is a short trip for him to get here. I have already replaced the 301 tweeter with a MAHL so I will have to switch that back to stock for the comparison. The Forte also responds well to the MAHL upgrade but the efficiency is lower so I normally stick an L-Pad in there whereas the Chorus requires nothing but the tweeter.

Chorus. It is my favorite vintage speaker over the Forte and Cornwall. I prefer the Chorus I because it is front ported and will work anywhere, no wall required and the minor amount of bass you give up does not bother me. The Chorus also responds well to recaps and when I stick one of my larger MAHL tweeters on there they are really good. I would not go the Ti diaphragm route and leave them stock if need be as I find those very harsh sounding.

You mean there could actually be a question? Assuming both have good recapped crossovers it is not even close for me.

Forte to Chorus is not a lateral move and you are going to have better luck buying a set outright and then selling the fortes. Both hard to find around Nashville as I am looking all the time with scant success.

Sure does.

I never have trouble getting speakers to follow me home.

That was a great trip. Came back with my Ford van FULL and a 20' trailer 90% full. Stopped by Cory's on the way home since I wanted to hear his Jubes. He took one look at my trailer with the MCM 1900 and other things and laughed and said he needed a picture for Facebook. No there is nothing like hearing your MCM 1900 when you get it running right the first time. Except maybe when you get your Super MWM running right the first time. I have some LSI's in the shop right now and they sound good but the other stuff will raise the hair on your arms. If more people knew how good this big pro gear sounds when an MCM came up for sale it would not last a week.

I buy 12g zip cord/speaker wire from Monoprice by the 100' roll when on sale and it is more than I need for 20' to 24' runs. When I set a speaker up for more than temporary listening I use crimp fork ends and fasten them to the screw down section of the bannana input plugs so I don't have to worry about things working loose.

Those would fit everywhere the DE120 would so they are of interest and I will check them out. On the DE7 my first thought though is to avoid throats smaller than the 1" size. One thing is for sure I can make them work with my clamp plates and that would add to the drivers known to fit.

OK does the woofer self limit for frequencies that are to high? What are the potential problems from doing this?

Yes and you were there to see it happen!!

OK added a 2uf to the existing mid 2uf and the mid range sounds louder. Did not jump out the inductor. What exactly does each of these steps do?

Sure did and it went out today. The ONLY thing wrong with them was a very slight scratch on one end of each logo and the rest was NIB condition. Never saw anything like it's condition in pro gear that old. 1981

I never had a chance to list them. One of my KPT-456 buyers was told that I was going to sell the stacks soon when I began to build my S-MWM's and before he made it back home he got off the highway and paypaled me $1,500 to hold them for him until he could finish paying. They went for $2,500 by the way.

OK using your recommendations Claude with this woofer, 700 horn and K-55-V, and a small MAHL with a DE10 on it and your back side port with a recapped type E crossover I have a report. Just running for a half hour or so and woofers and DE10's not broken in yet the bass is thunderous compared to what I am accustomed to with Heresy's. A little heavy on the bass but I have not fiddled with positioning much yet and drivers need to finish breakin. Far closer to a Chorus than a Heresy now.

I got two threads mixed up so attribute that comment to a brain fart.

Also agree.

And there it is in a nutshell, what were the original design specs and were they dovetailed around PWK's famed military surplus capacitor buys or cheapest vendor costs. I have not found anything that specifically addresses this and if I remember to ask this at Boneheads class perhaps we will get an answer.

HEY what happened to the rest of this thread?

My current favorite coffee and vendor.

Well figuring that any additional resistance changes what you hear and ESR is resistance keep it low if possible. I can't tell you in professional engineer terms why but here is how I have learned to judge things. In welding and machining and CAD design you look for people who get results you can prove to yourself in a couple of areas and then pay attention to the other things they have to say. They are far more often right than wrong and it saves you a boat load of time figuring out everything for yourself. Therefore when people who have lots of experience in crossovers say this matters I accept that. I have a good Fluke multimeter and on uf it is not as accurate as the B&K 885 and forget about ESR unless you have a meter designed to measure that. Good tools give good results and poor ones give you trouble you probably don't know you have because the poor tool cant solve or assess your problem correctly. It would be nice to have a spec for ESR with actual values but all I have found says the lower the better and no acceptable tolerance range. Most of the old caps I measure have from .15 to .5+ ESR and the Sonicaps and Daytons are normally no more than .005.

Hooray a thread about coffee and not booze!!!