delta88343

Check your crossovers. If they are old they could be shot which would produce a raspy sound. Replace the caps with good quality ones, that will only cost a couple bucks. Hopefully none of the voicecoils are fried but that is a cheap fix as well.

Babadono, imo absorption is always better than diffusion. Now for lower frequencies you want diffusion because it's too difficult to absorb. In regards to floor and ceiling, I have wall to wall carpeting for the abortion on the floor, and ceiling I'm not worried about due to limited vertical dispersion and with the rockwool panels on the rear wall there is no such thing as secondary reflections. On my sidewalls I have nice looking area rugs hung on the wall so it addresses both astetics and sonic functionality. There is of course a single early reflection from the front wall which is my movie screen, but not at high frequencies which is the issue. Nothing escapes the absobtion properties of the Rockwool except the much lower frequencies. I've used TEMU a number of times and have never had an issue. It's basically products straight from China without the multiple middle men so items are dirt cheap, like half the price and more for the same item on amazon. I'm not hear to preach, just wanted to express how one can transform the sound of heritage or other speakers with sound absorption. It's a major effect of a speakers sound yet goes unaddressed 99% of the time. The room is 90% of what you hear from a LOUDspeaker, especially one with some directionality.

What year are your LS? You also MUST buy a sub. Just get a cheapy one to start to make sure that does it for you. You must have that bottom octave. The difference you're also hearing in the midrange is the way its better voiced to the bass horn vs a direct radiator in the Cornwalls. You'll get use to it and like it better. The LS are far superior to a Conrwall. But get a sub, or an equalizer where you can boost an additional 10-15 hertz of bass out of the LS. A sub would be best, but make sure it can match the sensitivity and playing levels of the LS, that's why I suggest a cheapy equalizer to start with the proper bass controls to boost levels BELOW 50hz. A 40hz control would be ideal.

Islander: You wouldn't be placing sound absorbing material randomly, the most important place to put it is on the wall in which your speakers are pointing. I just ordered 64 sq ft of hopefully real sound absorbing foam from TEMU for just $17. Far and away lower that what sonex costs. Hopefully it's real sonex like sound absorbing foam and just not foam which is near useless. If not, I'll return it and nothing is lost. If it real, it's a major steal and I'll buy more. This is 2" thick foam. I'm a single guy so I don't have to worry about my wife bitching at me that it doesn't look nice. It looks just fine. I have a very nice looking AV room with a 16ft screen for watching movies from my LED DVD player in-between my K Horns. Concert videos are simply just LIVE. Regular movies, just as good or better than a movie theater.

I have tested this effect by measuring these characteristics with a calibrated microphone placed in a portable anechoic chamber I built vs free standing in the room. If memory serves, I recorded via frequency graph plots I generated an increase of around +4db in the higher mid frequencies between 1k and 4-5k. A +4db response is quite dramatic. Lowering those frequencies via an equalizer still didn't fix the issue because those frequencies are still bouncing around the room at the rate of 7 times every second until the amplitude decays. Putting up the rockwool panels I built transformed my klipschorns into the SMOOTH (no brightness) sounding speaker I fell in love with 40 years prior when once again they were in a well damped room. Just stand in the middle of your listening room and clap your hands. If you can hear the echo and subsequent decay of the clap you have a bad room, sonically. The louder you play your music the worse it gets and destroys imaging, and klipsch heritage speakers can generate some damn good horizontal imaging and depth.

Different horn design have different dispersion characteristics. I believe the exponential design PK used has controlled directives which causes beaming. This beaming effect can significantly increase the amplitudes of various frequencies which can cause a harsh sound in what are considered bright rooms. Remember, speakers are tested in an anechoic chamber that absorbs ALL frequencies and it is in that environment that a speaker produces its fattest frequency response. Now stick that same speaker in a room with large areas of hard surfaces and the sound, especially the mid to higher midrange frequencies are going to continuously reflect and bounce around the room like an echo chamber. This is why a room needs sound absorbing materials, if you're unhappy with the higher frequency sounds.

I guess I erred in its topic placement.

For all the Klipsch Heritage Speaker owners out there, in order to truly hear the full potential of the real Klipsch sound, you MUST dampen the rear wall in your listening room that your speakers are aimed at. This can be done with 2×4 panels (any size) of Rockwool which is a great sound dampened material by design, or real sound absorbing panels from Sonex or the like. Even in Paul's original Dope From Hope notes he mentioned the room should be well damped. This is due to the dispersion characteristics and pattern of the horns. Most rooms are 90% bare surface, and with sound traveling at 1030 feet per second, if your room is 15 feet deep from your speakers to the rear wall, the sound will bounce between the rear and front wall 7 times per second which will accentuate the high end which cannot be conquered or reduced even with an equalizer. Those mid and higher frequencies MUST be ABSORBED to eliminate the sound continually reflecting and bouncing between the rear and front wall, building every second which produces a very BRIGHT sound that cannot be tamed with an eq. Once you dampen the rear wall, you will transform your speakers and hear that butter smooth and live sound Klipsch speakers are capable of producing. Everything you have ever heard about Klipsch Heritage speakers sounding bright is due to them being in a "live" room and not a well damped room acoustically or the back wall at least. It is not the speakers. Trust me, you will transform the sound of your system to that A rated butter smooth midrange and high range sound only Klipsch heritage speakers are capable of producing. Unfortunately however, Klipsch Heritage speakers are more sensitive to this room effect than dome radiators with a wider dispersion patten. Once you do this you will not believe the sonic transformation of your Klipsch speakers. They will give you that dynamic and incredible live sound WITHOUT sounding harsh. Do it!

What's the website address?

Cranky, You build filter networks for the heritage series?

It appears the best driver of the lot is the first K55V with the 2 piece phase plug which is distinguishable by the soldered leads. Anyone know what years this driver was made and implemented? Thanks.

The community driver is still sold. Just heard from their main distributor in the US about an hour ago. Its $345 plus $25 for shipping for each. So the question remains, is it better than the BMS 4591 for the same money, or as good as or better than the 4592ND for 50% less.

Thanks to all.

Does anyone have direct experience comparing the BMS 4591 vs 4592ND against the Community M200? Though it has been stated that the M200 is smoother than the BMS, but it does not have the extended frequency response as the BMS drivers do so what have you dont about the drop between 400-500hz and tapering off above 4k? The 4591 is about the same cost as the Community M200. Plus, I'm not crazy about drivers that have inverted U shaped frquency plots, and the BMS driver does have a smaller peak trough ratio. Thanks,

What do you like better about the K77's or like least about the crites? Thanks,