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wvu80

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Everything posted by wvu80

  1. This is the first review I've seen. The 600M II's outclass nearly everything to which they are compared.
  2. The letter N is the date code. N = 1975 K-C-BR means Klipschorn -Type C collar - Birch Raw Other: Type AA crossover, K-55V CD (compression driver) and K-77 CD tweeter. All good stuff, your Khorns should sound great. +++ 1962-1983 Letter format A=62 B=63 C=64 D=65 E=66 F=67 G=68 H=69 I=70 J=71 K=72 L=73 M=74 N=75 O=NONE P=76 Q=NONE R=77 S=78 T=79 U=80 V=NONE W=81 X=82 Y=83 +++
  3. I really liked this, it has very an interesting musical arrangement in 7/4. Easy to count, a measure of 4 then a measure of 3. 1-2-3-4-1-2-3. I loved the bass line and I am not usually a bass guitar guy. This guy was creative and pleasant to listen to. I am a drummer and I loved the tasty playing. I thought the drum kit's tuning was a bit odd as it was thin and ringing like a roto-tom. I'm sure those were not roto toms so it's apparent that was the sound the drummer was going for, a bit of a unique sound. Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. -Dave
  4. I know you weren't criticizing. That usually starts out with "WHAT THE HELL IS WR0NG WITH YOU?!" 🤣 +++ On a similar note, previously I never had a problem with the racks vibrating. Then another forum member asked me the same thing you did. I put my hand around one of the posts, and son-of-a-gun, resonance! Who knew? lol I think the subs vibrate the racks the most. I put everything on rubber pads but it continues to vibrate just the same. I like the racks with the wheels because I can easily move those heavy things with relative ease and I'm always behind them changing wires or moving them around. Since this picture I've moved the subs inwards towards the TV, speakers to the outside and I added Front Heights over the L/R speakers. I have them about three feet from the front wall and my couches about three feet from the back wall. It sounds good but I know I still have room issues. I have 7' ceilings, carpet over a concrete floor and no side walls for at least 10 feet on each side. Even though you correctly predicted the vibration issues, it is a problem but it's not my biggest problem. Even though the system sounds pretty good, I know there's a lot more to figure out. Thanks for asking. 🤜🤛
  5. I have three complete systems. The Mancave has a couple so I can play with different sounds. RP-600M, CF-4 and some DIY Overnight Sensations 4" woofs. The OS actually sound OK paired with the DIY 15" Reference 15 sub. Downstairs is the big 9.4.0 HT setup. DIYSoundgroup Titan 615 LX pair, Klipsch RC-64 III in the middle. RS-62 on the side, a couple of large DIYSoundgroup boxes with 15" woofs and 12" SEOS waveguides. Front Heights are DIYSoundgroup Pure 10. Pair of DIYSoundgroup 15" subs and a pair of DIYSoundgroup Magnum 12 Mid-bass Modules. The Front Heights are not shown. The Star of the Show is the RC-64 III. It outshines everything else.
  6. Audyssey et al is designed to calibrate your speakers so they all play balanced at Reference level on your AVR, usually 80 or 82 db, check your manual for the exact number. It makes sense the CS would be dialed back and the little 52's turned up. All of my large Klipsch speakers calibrate the same way. Depending on the room I use Audyssey might turn LS or Khorns to minus -12 when the AVR is set to 80. I've found that when I use different kinds of speakers and lots of them Audyssey does a GREAT job of making them all play nice together. Using a db meter and making them all play at 80 db is a crude way of trying to do the same thing. It's not the same thing because Audyssey also measures the room. Dave, you are not a rookie speaker guy. While using only two sets of speakers I've no doubt you know what you're doing enough to calibrate them to where they sound their best. You don't need to set your speakers to the mythical THX 80 db standard like less sophisticated listeners might. If you added a RC-64 to the middle, some bi-pole RS-62's to the side and some 8" Front Heights, THEN you might need some help balancing all that out. To me that is the strength of the various room correction programs.
  7. I missed that. If it is an Electrovoice kit, I've never heard an EV speaker I didn't like.
  8. You're right about the sound. I have a number of DIY kit speakers that sound great at less cost but the resale value would be the cost of the drivers, if I'm lucky. Buy some $400 Heresy's and when you sell them years later they are still worth $400. I would pass on these particular speakers even at the not-bank-breaking $200 price point because when you're trying to find speakers that sound halfway decent, the crossover is the secret sauce. Even serious amateur builders have a hard time getting the XO just right.
  9. My 2 cents, pass on the Mystery Speakers simply because they are Mystery speakers. If you're really curious about them offer fifty bucks which is your "I really don't want to buy these" price. That way you're not out much if they turn out to sound bad. And "no" they will not match your fine La Scala speakers in sound or looks. Few speakers do.
  10. Look at my post from a humorous point of view. I know you weren't trying to nail me, I was just having some fun with you. Here in West Virginia we only do that with friends. +++ You didn't miss anything in my first post, that more detailed explanation about the PIO caps is what I did NOT include. All is good. 😎 👍
  11. Oh man, I make ONE loose statement and BAM! I get nailed. Immediately. 🤣 First of all, I know you're correct and you know you're right. I was ALLUDING to the fact that the paper-in-oil caps found in LS's, Khorns et al from the 70's and 80's most of the time DO need to be replaced after 20 years or more to keep that factory fresh sound. For the most part, the more modern caps like those in my CF-4's from the 90's do not. I was just trying to be brief in a simplistic way so I didn't need to over-explain like I always do. Thanks for keeping me on my toes. 🤜🤛
  12. The problem we're going to have helping you with the CF-2 sound is that there are very few CF-1 /CF-2 owners that I'm aware of. The CF-3 /4 speakers are rare but at least there is a good amount of us here. Can you expand on what doesn't "sound right?"
  13. Not to my knowledge. I don't know if there is an upgrade out there. The OEM XO's should sound fine and they don't need replaced as the capacitors don't go bad over time. I have the 1994 CF-4 v1 and I've not touched the XO. They sound pretty good.
  14. At the very least it sounds as if you can now attenuate the offensive HF sibilance. Is the problem now corrected or do you need to do some more experimentation?
  15. Gary RC speaks true. I have the RP-600M and as he said the speakers have identical tweeter sections. I don't hear any sibilance but I have heard it before on other systems I listen to so I know what you're talking about. The source definitely makes a difference. The electronics you use makes a bigger difference as well. There are some AVR's where you can find "theater mode." Those curves typically roll off the HF which is what you want. I have a Marantz 6011 so I'm not sure what settings you need with your Yamaha. Have you run YAPO since you've acquired the 500M's?
  16. That was fun to see and hear the movers and shakers at Klipsch. Good video guys. 👍
  17. https://www.facebook.com/klipschmuseum/videos/2510207145780825
  18. Agree. I know there are better methods than listening to one's home speakers using Youtube. I look at it as a quick and dirty test just for fun.
  19. I was tested in a quiet chamber by an audiologist friend while I was in my 20's. I could hear easily into the 17 kHz range with a hole in my hearing around 15 kHz. That means sound was there, as the frequency changed, the sound went away and then returned. "perfectly normal" to have a hole in your hearing I was told. I'm now 66 and have self-tested with Youtube vids. I can't hear anything above 12 kHz. Subjectively, I don't feel any different in terms of what I can hear out of recorded music.
  20. The Stalin days were dark for Russia and the USSR. Mass starvation and millions of deaths. You dared not speak out against Stalin or you would be sent to a gulag where you would be worked to death. Demetri Shostakovitch's Symphony No.10 was just as dark a piece of music in the beginning followed in the second movement with excitement and uplifting tempos. Demetri said his 10th Symphony was about Stalin's life. No wonder he came out with that tidbit, which nobody suspected after after Stalin was dead. I'll skip the dread part and let you start with the second movement, which really cooks. Tempos are perfect in this one.
  21. You guys with the bedroom systems, especially the nice bedroom systems blow me away. I don't have any electronics in my bedroom, not even lights. I just turn on the light from the bathroom or use a flashlight at night. 🌞 The bedroom is for sleeping. And stuff. ++ Two systems: HT basement 11.4.0 DIYSoundgroup: L/R Titan LX615 w/ 15" woofs Klipsch RC-64 III in the middle RS-62 Side surrounds DIYSoundgroup Cheap Thrills - 15" woofs for Rear Surround DIYSoundgroup Pure Ten - 10" woofs for Front Heights DIYSoundgroup Mid Bass Modules - 12" woofs (used as 2 subs) DIYSoundgroup Umax 15 pair w/ one each Inuke 3000dsp Marantz 6011 AVR does the pre-pro duties and XPA-5 powers the L/C/R Mancave computer setup Rotate between: 2.1 CF-4's w/ DIYSoundgroup 15" sub, HO driver and 500 watt Yung amp. Old low end Pioneer 5.1 AVR 2.0 RP-600M w/JVC Receiver from the 90's
  22. Note: My post is based on the notion that the unit listed is now sold. I would not want to mess with another members' sale. +++ That being said, I would not advise you to buy a UMC-200. It sounds great but it has known issues which render it inoperable. The BIOS becomes unstable and it is not able to boot into its operating mode. I have not seen any solutions. Disclaimer: I bought one used a couple of years ago. It is now a semi-expensive brick. I'll sell you mine which is in non-functioning condition for $100 shipped. Maybe you can get it working.
  23. What??? Did you see where @geezin' is from? The man is from West Virginia! 🤣 I would wager there isn't a used Klipsch speaker, much less a used SVS within a two hour road trip of him, and I don't even know what area he's from. I'm from Parkersburg where Columbus, Ohio is a two hour trip, one way. The Khorns were a two hour trip, the La Scala's a six hour trip. RF-83 package? Fourteen hours, one way. I Love road trips. 😎
  24. What size room? I've used 10" -12" 15" single and 15" dual subs. In my bedroom sized mancave a 10" with 250 wpc sounds quite nice. RP600M and Paradigm 10" sub, 250 wpc plate amp.
  25. wvu80

    How far back?

    I'm not that expert. I used to own LS and Khorns and I did the poor man's version of time alignment. I used an external horn and driver for the tweeter and moved it back along the top to align with the throat of the mid driver (see pic of Khorn, below. SEOS 12" waveguide and Denovo DNA 360). I couldn't hear a difference and I don't know that it made any difference. I've always heard that to time align LS each driver would need to be individually powered and then use a DSP. After measuring, the DSP would implement the time delay needed for each driver. All of that is above my pay grade. Sorry if I wasn't of much help.
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