Curmudgeon
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Posts posted by Curmudgeon
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Wouldn't a Blose comparison be more appropriate on the SounDesign or Emerson forum? Under the topic of how to market a cheap pressed-wood box full of itty-bitty limited range drivers as "audiophool" speakers. The number one choice of octogenarians and tinnitus sufferers! Yeah, baby, yeah!
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Ah, the old wire debate reincarnates again. Those three foot high flames really burn my arse! Here is an image for my wires of choice, they come in different lengths and colors, and truly have high-current capability! Not only will they make your speakers sound better but can start your Toyota if you leave your lights on. Their thickness alone will impress any audiophile, readily available from high-end auto parts stores and/or your car trunk. Van den Hul decals optional.
This message has been edited by Audioholic on 03-31-2002 at 09:50 AM
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Ebay has its share of jokers but if you're careful you can still find bargains. I just recently bid on and won a pair of 1975 Cornwall I's, Designer series, raw birch, from the original owner for $626.00. The speakers were within driving distance from my house so I didn't have to pay for shipping or worry about damage, it cost me about $25.00 in fuel. The pair is in great condition and after watching other Cornwall's go for over $1000.00 I was glad to get these, if the Heritage line price trend continues it will get harder and harder to find a set for a decent price.
Usually I read between the lines of the seller's listing to try to determine whether its just someone selling their old stuff or a reseller/scrounger trying to sell junk for the maximum dollar. If you're reading a listing and it starts looking like a sales pitch its best to run away fast and look elsewhere. Also, if a seller won't answer e-mails during the auction or gives unclear descriptions (especially about cosmetics) its best to steer clear no matter how bad you want the item. I've been burned on a couple of low-priced items but I've met some really decent people on Ebay who would go out of their way to help you (like the people on this forum) and share a passion for audio equipment. I'm a bit of a curmudgeon but dealing on Ebay has restored my faith in humanity somewhat, its nice to know that there's far more honest people out there than the media would have you think. Just watch out for the schmucks and stay away from bidding wars (no matter how bad you have a case of the "I wants").
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Aragon Soundstage pre/pro
Aragon 8008ST amps (3 of 'em)
Aragon D2A2 dac
Aragon 47K phono stage
Linn LP12 Lingo turntable
Rega Planet CD player
Nakamichi DVD-15 DVD player
Denon DR-F7 cassette deck
Cornwall II mains
Academy center
Cornwall I's (once reassembled) surrounds
KSW-12 sub
LF-10 sub
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Hello everyone,
I just purchased a clean pair of Cornwall I's (the same ones discussed on the "Cornwall III's" topic in another thread). I wanted to match my existing pair of unfinished birch II's with another set for rear surround use but when I picked them up yesterday I determined they were not II's but I's for sure. Even though they were advertised incorrectly the price was right and they're in great condition so I closed the deal figuring I may have done better than if they would have actually been II's. The seller (original owner) was extremely pleasant, forthright, and accommodating but just didn't know that much about them (not everyone is a technophile). At what I paid for them ($626.00) I was willing to take a risk rather than give them up and a big plus was that they were located only four hours away from me. I drove down and picked them up myself so they got to my house undamaged and for less than $25.00 worth of gas. I think I did OK but I welcome any opinions either for or against!
I am in the process of cleaning them, checking fasteners, etc. before they go into service so I pulled the backs off to check the drivers and crossovers for numbers. If someone out there (Trey? Mobile Homeless? HornEd?) with the serial number decoder and a better knowledge of the Heritage line could identify these properly and offer opinions I would appreciate it. I'm trying to figure out if the I's would sound better as mains or to use them as surrounds like I initially thought. At some point I will set them up for a direct A-B comparison with the II's but I'm trying to get a bit of a head start. Here's the info from the speakers:
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Type: CD-BR
Serial #'s: 5N856 & 5N857
Crossovers: B3 with original wiring to drivers
Tweeters: K-77 (#'s 29008 & 28977)
Mid horns: K-600
Mid horn drivers: K-52-K
Woofers: K-33 ( 15162 4 ohm 67-92110093 G2 ) Round magnets
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Thanks in advance for any help, if anyone needs more info I'll have them apart for another couple of days. I'll be using them with the following components:
Aragon Soundstage pre/pro
Aragon 8008ST amps (3 of 'em)
Aragon D2A2 dac
Aragon 47K phono stage
Linn LP12 Lingo turntable
Rega Planet CD player
Nakamichi DVD-15 DVD player
Denon DR-F7 cassette deck
Cornwall II's (currently mains, may swap to surrounds)
Academy center
Cornwall I's (once reassembled)
KSW-12 sub
LF-10 sub
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*** Post moved to a new topic ***
This message has been edited by Audioholic on 03-16-2002 at 10:26 PM
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The Sansui G-33000 receiver was Sansui's most powerful and expensive receiver in that era. It was made from 1978-81 and retailed for $1900.00 (adjust for inflation). The amp section was rated 300 watts RMS, which paired with Cornwall's would allow you to vaporize your furniture in most rooms. I've seen them go on Ebay for $1100.00 to around $2000.00 due to their rarity, if you can get it from your friend for a good price it's a great investment and an attention-getting component. Just make sure you've got a reinforced shelf to put it on, if I remember right the two sections combined weigh around 120 lbs. It probably wouldn't be the best pairing with Cornwall's since they're so efficient and need clean power in the lower wattage range but if you're looking for overkill that will qualify. Kinda like driving an Indy car on the street. You won't find consumer level components built like the G series any more unless you throw out the cash for the likes of Krell, Levinson, etc. I've still got my old Sansui G-8000 receiver, its "only" 120 watts RMS but I really like the aesthetics, impressive with all that aluminum and backlighting. Good luck!
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I also have a reservation for the Outlaw 950 pre/pro (December 14th!) and am looking forward to giving it a workout. If I didn't already have an Acurus A125X5 and a A150 I would strongly consider either a 750 or 770 amplifier. Outlaw has built their reputation by word-of-mouth with very little advertising so they won't survive unless they put out a quality product, at this point the length of the 950 waiting list is a good indicator they've got another winner on their hands. Like dndphishin I have a Cornwall/Academy setup that's overkill as far as power goes but for home theater its always better to have a little extra in reserve. The money you'll save on the Outlaw components will help finance your next component upgrade (and believe me, there's always a "next")
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It's perfectly OK to have a monkey as long as you don't ask anyone to touch it.
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Craig, using KLF-30's you don't really need to biamp with a unit as powerful as an Acurus A200X3. Your speakers are VERY efficient (102 dB) and your ear drums would likely burst by the time you would ever hear a difference. At 102 dB efficiency you're listening to between 1 to 10 watts most of the time (and thats LOUD) in an average size room, the Acurus will have more than enough power to spare for bass control unless you move your system to a gymnasium or concert hall. Just make sure your speaker wire is sufficient (16 gauge or thicker) and its terminated cleanly for the best sound, also good interconnects can make a difference.
Biamping is usually done on more inefficient speakers or to achieve a perceivable difference in sound using different amp types. Some people use tube amps for the mids/highs and solid state for the lows, which sounds great if gain is matched. I'm currently using an Acurus A150 to control the lows on my B&W CDM9NT's with a Michael Yee Audio PA-1 to control the highs, both amps have similar gain and work well together.
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Mike is on to something here, the toons he's referring to are classics that deserve to be viewed unmolested by continuing generations. If there aren't any on DVD there SHOULD be. Those were absolutely great cartoons, especially in their original uncut versions. Loony Tunes, early Tom & Jerry, Popeye, and Ren & Stimpy are good examples of very talented animators with a knack for blending humor that entertains the kids but allows the adults to pick up on subtle social and political references. If enough people indicate they're interested then Warner Bros., Nickelodeon, and the like will respond to the demand, large companies generally won't ignore the opportunity for income. The problem is just a matter of getting past the PC morons with their Socialist agenda, but if everyone interested in seeing good cartoons on DVD would e-mail the distributors it can get done. There's also some online petitions to that extent, so if you want to see good, uncut animation on DVD just whack those keys and state your opinion. The PC types that say these toons are racist or inflammatory should quit trying to rewrite history and view them in context, allowing for the era the animation was produced in. History should be used to educate, not be erased because a small percentage of whiners "aren't comfortable" with it. As for any PC types that dislike this post my suggestion is to keep trying for your Darwin Award, the sooner you get one the better off the world will be.
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Thanks for the info and the link, I just ordered one. Very nice of Kenwood to make it available.
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Doug, here's the Pioneer SX-1250 specs you wanted:
AMPLIFIER SECTION:
RMS Power Per Channel: 160 into 8 ohms, 200 into 4 ohms, 20 Hz to 20 KHz
Damping Factor @ Load Impedance: 30, 20 Hz to 20 KHz into 8 ohms
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): 0.1% at full rated power into 8 or 4 ohms, no more than 0.05% at 80 watts/channel
Frequency Response: 5 Hz to 100 KHz, + 0 dB, - 1 dB
Hum and Noise 100 dB
Intermodulation Distortion (IM): No more than 0.1% at full rated power, no more than 0.05% at 80 watts/channel
FM TUNER SECTION:
RF Sensitivity: 1.5 uV (8.7 dBF)
50 dB quieting sensitivity, Stereo: 35 uV, 36 dBF
50 dB quieting sensitivity, Mono: 2.1 uV, 11.5 dBF
THD, Mono: 0.1%
THD, Stereo: 0.2%
Signal to Noise Ratio, Mono: 80 dB at 65 dBF
Signal to Noise Ratio, Stereo: 74 dB at 65 dBF
Frequency Response: 30 Hz to 15 KHz, + 0.3 dB, -1 dB
Capture Ratio: 1.0 dB
IF Image Rejection: 110 dB
IF Rejection: 120 dB
Stereo Subcarrier Rejection: 74 dB
SCA Suppression: 74 dB
Alternate Channel Selectivity: 83 dB
Spurious Rejection: 110 dB
AM Carrier Rejection: 60 dB
Stereo Separation at 1 kHz: 50 dB
Mono Switch: Yes
Signal Strength Meter: Yes
Center Tuning Meter: Yes
Multipath Listen: Yes
Muting Switch: 2.5 uV (13 dBF) fixed
AM TUNER SECTION:
RF Sensitivity: 300 uV/meter or 15 uV with external antenna
Alternate Channel Selectivity: 40 dB
IF Rejection: 85 dB
Image Rejection: 65 dB
Signal to Noise Ratio: 55 dB
PREAMPLIFIER:
Bass Adjustments: +/- 10 dB at 100 Hz, and +/- 5 dB at 50 Hz
Treble Adjustments: +/- 10 dB at 10 KHz, and +/- 5 dB at 20 KHz
Tone Control Defeat: Yes
High Filter: 8 KHz, 12 dB/octave
Low Filter: 30 Hz, 12 dB/octave
Gain Control: Calibrated detent knob
Loudness Contour: + 6 dB at 100 Hz, + 3 dB at 10 KHz
Mono: Yes
Muting: -20 dB
Balance: Yes
Tape Monitors: 2
Tape to Tape Dubbing Yes
Auxillary Inputs: 1
Phono Inputs: 2
Phono Overload: 500 mV
DIMENSIONS:
Width: 21 7/8
Height: 7 3/8
Depth: 18 3/4
Weight: 64 lbs 4 oz
If you can get a clean one for less than $300.00 I would jump all over it, they go over $300.00 on Ebay all the time. I was lucky enough to get mine with the manual, brochure, and the original box with matching serial number. There's still some service manuals available too if you check around on the net.
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The old Pioneer SX series has a great AM/FM tuner, pulls in stations much better than a lot of expensive modern equipment. If you get the pots and switches cleaned its a nice sounding, fairly quiet unit with a lot of balls. If you look inside you'll see that the caps look like Coke cans, the toroidal power supply is friggin huge, and the circuit boards are individually shielded by aluminum covers. It may be old but the build quality is outstanding, plus considering that the components are discreet (no IC's) and very repairable it will most likely still be working when the grandkids are ready for music. Too bad Pioneer hasn't made anything like it in years because there was a lot of engineering and aesthetic pride put into the late 70's flagship SX's. Your SX-1280 was made from 1979-81 and had an original retail price of $950.00 (in 70's dollars).
I sure like mine, I've got two mint Pioneer SX-1250's and I even have a mint Sansui G-8000 like Mike Lindsey mentioned. I may not listen to them every day but they're all hooked up and fully functional. There's just something about a massive receiver with more aluminum than most Harleys and real wood trim, it looks like its ready to knock the pictures off the walls just sitting there. Enjoy it with your Cornwalls but don't turn it up too loud, the combined power of the SX plus the efficiency of the Cornwalls equals a visit from the cops if you're not careful (don't ask me how I know)!
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Boy has THIS discussion gotten interesting since I last posted. You guys would make Don Rickles proud! I just love the smell of sarcasm in the morning!
Seriously, though, I've been looking around lately and there's a plethora of speaker wires and interconnects making all kinds of claims so its rather hard to weed through. I may soon be trying some of the DIY recipes just to see what happens, I'm somewhat jaded towards the wire difference claims but starting to get rather curious. I'm going to install permanent in-wall speaker wiring soon for the HT system and will be looking for high-quality cost effective wire since this is one job I don't want to consider re-doing. Jon's article makes a lot of sense but (like most of you)I don't have the background to quantify the information fully so it seems some experimenting is in order.
To Mobile: I'm going to need probably 200' or so of wire to do 7 channels, any hot tips on a supplier of good stuff?
To the dude with the "Optimus SS-120 six channel receiver (120 watts! Times 6!) Lloyd subwoofer (fits under my coffe table) Kenwood CD150 CD player (a real keeper) Sony XA700 speakers (15" woofers!)": You may want to chime out on this topic, with THAT system you're lucky to tell the difference between a CD and an 8-track tape, much less speaker wires (Stay out of Walmart and Home Depot!).
That one's for you, Mr. Rickles!2-CHANNEL
Mobile Fidelity UltrAmp (Michael Yee PA-1) amp
Linn Kolektor preamp
Linn Sondek LP12 turntable, Basik Plus arm
Rega Planet CD player
Denon DR-F7 cassette deck
B&W CDM9NT speakers
HOME THEATER
Sherwood R-956 (utilized as a pre-pro)
Acurus A125X5 amp
Acurus A150 amp
Sony DVP-S330 DVD player
Sony CDP-C725 CD player
Klipsch Cornwall II main's
Klipsch Academy center
Klipsch KSW12 subwoofer
Sansui XL-500 rear's (full-range, no Bose cubes here!)
Cerwin-Vega LS6C rear center
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The next step is an THX certified theater effects simulator. Gives you the bad smells, incessant talking, cell phone ringing, crying kids, cheesy commercials and the like for a true theater experience. The optional module locks your bathroom door on movies that exceed two hours for squirm effects. And it will only be $1999.99 - a must have.
By the way, you left out quadraphonic in the formats (SQ quad is what Dolby ProLogic was developed from). Today's home theater market reminds me quite a bit of the hype used to push quadraphonic in the 70's, except there's more equipment to buy. But it sure sounds and works better than quad ever did!
This message has been edited by Audioholic on 12-31-2001 at 08:55 AM
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NOS440: I'm not familiar with Scott turntables but their other equipment was of good quality so it probably isn't a bad deck, you may want to run a Google search on the model to see if any info is on the net. The Ebay seller seemed honest from his responses to you, it could be a good deal.
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MIKE STEHR: I haven't owned a Rega turntable myself but I have a Rega Planet CD player and its of very good quality. I've heard music on a P2 and a P3 at other people's houses on good systems and both produced excellent sound (and I'm picky). You may want to check www.audioreview.com or Stereophile for reviews if you're seriously considering one. I jumped from good mid-fi decks (Denon DP-45F, Yamaha PF800) into a Linn Sondek LP12 due to the LP12's reputation but I came really close to buying a Rega P25. Also, if you can find a Yamaha PF800 in good condition for around $300.00 its an excellent deck and can rival much more expensive stuff if set up properly. I still have my PF800 and won't be selling it, Yamaha outdid themselves on that one.
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Food for Thought:
1. How much do you want to spend (total of turntable, arm & cartridge)? Work on that number first and stick to your limit! Don't get into a bidding war on Ebay and end up overpaying.
2. Are you experienced with turntables and able to do a reasonable setup yourself, adjusting things like cartridge alignment, tracking weight, antiskating, VTA, leveling?
If the answer is no to #2 you may want to go with a new deck to keep from buying something used that you won't know is screwed up until you try to use it. Also, shipping a turntable is a delicate matter and it needs to be partially disassembled then packed EXTREMELY well to survive the common carriers. The turntable should then be visually inspected for obvious problems, reassembled, leveled, and set up with a known good cartridge before you try to play a LP.
If you go new my suggestion would be a Rega P2 or P3, since they come almost ready to play out of the box and Rega's cartridges are self-aligning on Rega tonearms. Rega setups are uncomplicated and user friendly, you don't need a shop's help to get it playing. Either turntable will produce very nice sound for the money and hold their value well when you're ready to trade up.
I'm a big advocate of buying used components due to the major amount of money that can be saved but be careful and KNOW what you're buying. If the deck needs repair instead of just setup (damaged tonearm, worn bearing, etc, etc) it gets expensive fast and its also getting hard to find audio shops that will even touch a turntable. If you do go used try to get a deck from the original owner if possible and thoroughly check an Ebay seller's feedback before you bid. If there's too many disclaimers in the listing run away fast and if the seller has any negative feedback run away faster.
Stuff to look for when getting a used turntable:
Will the seller take it back if its broken or worn out?
Is a tonearm included? Is the tonearm fully functional?
Is the headshell included (depending on tonearm type)?
Does the damped cuing work OK or does it drop the arm like a rock?
Is a cartridge included? How old is the cartridge?
Is the dustcover scratched or cracked? Hinges OK?
Are all of the accessories included? Owner's manual?
If belt driven is the belt usable or stretched out?
Is a replacement belt even available for this deck?
What is the cosmetic condition? (get it in writing)
Has it been in regular use or sitting for 20 years?
If automatic, do the automatic functions work OK?
If it has a strobe lamp does that light up?
Has the turntable been modified or is it original?
This may seem like a myriad of questions but you need to know exactly what you're buying and a good seller will have no reservations about providing needed info and/or pictures.
Hope this info helps! Good Luck!
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Colin - No big deal, I was just being anal retentive about the phrasing. I'm new to this forum but I've read quite a few of your posts and they're all good.
The 12" black records are supposed to be better but I don't really know why, it could be better grade vinyl, better quality masters, or perhaps shorter pressing runs. My classical LP collection is not that extensive and I rely on a friend that plays cello to pick out the better recordings. He studied music in college and really knows the right ones to get, as far as orchestras, labels, conductors, etc.
I agree that the recording media is still very lacking but those who demand reference quality music are outnumbered by the cattle who are happy with mediochre sound. It seems we aggravating audiophile types are willing to spend plenty of money but have the gall to want good quality recordings in return, and there's much more money to be made from the gum-chewers buying mass quantities of hip-hop and boy-band schlock.
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So I'm not a true Star Wars fan, huh, although I've seen every Star Wars movie in the theater as it was released (starting in 1977). I guess you're right, since I don't own any of the masks, uniforms, or a play light saber. How often do you wear yours, TODDVJ?
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Colin, nothing personal but if you're going to quote someone use his or her original words in context. The words you left out of my second sentence vastly changes its meaning:
Original - "If you're sitting and listening to music critically the difference is usually obvious but if you're working or otherwise distracted it can be hard to notice."
Misquoted - "If you do sit and listen to music critically the difference is obvious but it can be hard to notice."
My griping is now concluded, its time for more of my demented opinions (groan):
Colins suggestion of buying older used classical LPs is a great idea, except in reality you shouldnt expect but so much dynamic range (although you can find some great titles that were never released in CD format). A CD actually has much more dynamic range available than the average LP. Even the best half-speed mastered 180 gram LP just does get near a CD's 90db dynamic range (average LP's run 50-70 at best). I love my LPs but do recognize their limitations; I just appreciate them for the type of sound they have compared to CDs. Colins comment about orchestras hitting 130db peaks is true and ANY compression changes the sound negatively, so both formats are incapable of 100% accurate reproduction.
If numbers were everything a CD would have sonic superiority but the problem there is that music is about more than dynamic range, signal-to-noise ratios, distortion, etc., etc. Rhythm, timing, timbre, and the natural decaying of notes are the main elements that determine whether the music sounds as it was recorded rather than like a tin can on a string. These elements are greatly affected by room size, shape, furnishings, source and amplification equipment, speakers, and rarely can be made to sound exactly like an original recording (especially live concerts). When all the variables are considered and combined its my opinion that LPs extract more of the right things needed from the analog wave than a CD can. I may be nuts but at least Ive got plenty of company in the asylum.
The new formats may be a step forward but its starting to look like VHS vs Beta all over again. SACD supposedly has a 120db dynamic range while DVD-A can do around 140db but that doesnt mean the best format will win. DVD-As 140db range doesnt mean that it is automatically the best format either, but its a good start. The shame of it is that the winner wont be determined by consumers in a market economy but by big-money corporations using unscrupulous methods to try to bring an early demise to the competing format. Essentially, the corporation with the best lawyers will prevail, lets just hope some of the lawyers are music fans. Maybe some of them actually own turntables.
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Besides the previously mentioned movies:
"Gladiator" in DTS-ES, opening battle scene. If your system is set up properly the arrows fly in all directions, and when the catapults launch it will really show off a subwoofer's power.
Another good one is "U571" in DTS, especially the depth-charging scenes. This DVD will really show off the overall power of your system as the explosions occur and the creaking noises from the submarine's hull move around the speakers quite a bit.
On the quieter side, "Bram Stoker's Dracula" has very good effects. These aren't in-your-face type effects but are more subtle, there's numerous scenes where there are really creepy noises that move around the channels to give a good, eerie environment. Its enough to make my cats lift their heads up and look around when they're in the room.
"The Haunting" in DTS-ES has pretty good effects also, but you need the room lights off and the volume up for proper enjoyment.
As for Star Wars Episode 1, if you can get the DVD for free it may be a good demo disc but there's no way I would pay for one. The movie is not up to the originals and the Jar Jar character is so obnoxious that it brings back the need for "barf bags" in theaters. I saw it in the theater but won't be buying this DVD no matter how good the sound is.
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I would recommend a Rega Planet as a good, no frills CD player. They're expensive new but can be found used very easily on eBay, Audiogon, or the like for around $400.00 or so. The unit has a nice sound & excellent Burr-Brown DAC's so it is good as a stand-alone player. Buying used equipment is not as risky as it sounds and can save you significant amounts of money. If you get it from the original owner and they have the manual, box & packing it usually means they took good care of it.
Also, I would not recommend putting ANY equipment on top of speakers, especially a CD player. Vibration from the speaker cabinets can affect the CD players sound and bring an early death to the circuit boards in any component. Any kind of shelf is better than putting components on top of speakers. Good luck!
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In regard to the last few posts: Sorry, but I have to agree with Mobile here that vinyl in decent condition played back on good deck/arm/cartridge combos has a slightly more appealing sound. If you're sitting and listening to music critically the difference is usually obvious but if you're working or otherwise distracted it can be hard to notice. For a goofy analogy consider this: the movie "Airplane" is pretty funny just listening to the dialog but if you're REALLY paying attention to what's happening on the screen there's so many sight gags going on its hard to pick up on all of them without multiple viewings of the movie. Music can be like this on multiple listenings, as I've improved my equipment over the years I'll pick up on nuances or background noises in the recording that didn't stand out as well when played previously, but your source material has to have it there to begin with.
Another way to think about it is that music is an analog waveform which an LP duplicates mostly true to form (other than RIAA EQ) but a CD is a digitized version of that waveform. Depending on how many pieces the wave has been sliced into yields the APPROXIMATED analog wave which a CD is giving you. If you think of a connect-the-dots picture or dot-matrix type images compared to their originals you can get an idea of what I'm driving at: CD's get CLOSE but still don't reproduce a true analog waveform entirely in its frequency and amplitude. Both DVD-A and SACD should do better at this but I can't give an opinion on that since I don't own one yet (I'm waiting for a format winner). If you talk to musicians or recording engineers they'll almost always tell you that CD's are limiting them in how they record material but one must go with the format that's popular or they won't make any money.
Don't misconstrue what I'm rambling about here: CD's do have their advantages as far as convenience and dynamic range, plus they work much better in a car than a LP so I'm not about to give up my CD's. Vinyl can be a pain to deal with and its not for everyone but there's just too many people (including musicians) that prefer its type of sound to relegate LP's to the boneyard anytime soon. LP's are still in production due to DEMAND, otherwise the money-grubbing music industry would just give you CD's or whatever they can make the most profit off of. I won't be selling my LP's until a format can equal or better it in ALL ways, not just convenience.
Disclaimer: This has been an opinion, and we all know what they're like. No suicides or drinking binges are required to deal with an alternate viewpoint, but inflamed responses from the personally offended can be quite entertaining to read (hence this forum).
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
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Linn Sondek LP12 w/Basik Plus arm
Mobile Fidelity UltrAmp (Michael Yee PA-1) amp
Rotel RC-1070 preamp
Rega Planet CD player
B&W CDM9NT speakers
This message has been edited by Audioholic on 12-24-2001 at 10:12 AM
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Tsk, Tsk! Everyone play nice or you'll have to stand in the corner and listen to Abba on a Soundesign 8-track player (repeatedly).
Also, the REAL secret to audio nirvana is a boombox. Just think: it totally eliminates the need for separate components, expensive interconnects, expensive speaker cables, power conditioners, and even the need for 120v power itself. However, one must be very careful in battery choice to get the proper "slam" and "imaging": Eveready gives a nice warm sound while Duracells have better RF shielding (Copper-top). Stay away from Japanese batteries - they sound so "transistory" and bright.
Improbable as it is, all other explanations are more improbable still.
"THE ADVENTURE OF SILVER BLAZE" - Arthur Conan Doyle
That one's for you, Mr. Rickles!
Published Response Curves for older speakers
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Ray,
I can't get any of the links to work, just get an I.E. error message and several popups when you go to the main site (www.topofthecatch.com). I would love to see the Cornwall II curve since I have a pair of them.