The History Kid

I didn't. As soon as I got the 15 working again I dumped the idea. I like how the 15 sounds, but size was also a major hurdle. FWIW I could get the 1600 right now NIB from Klipsch at $1139 shipped - just don't have a reason to. haha

You will be hard pressed to beat that RSW-15. There's a select bunch of people that champion the RP-1600SW as a reasonable replacement, but even that seems marginal. I wasn't even going to keep the 1600 in my system when I thought I was going to have to repair my 15. Tl;dr - keep your RSW-15. I doubt, strongly, that the 1400 would perform better in any way over the 15.

I think you'd have a better value with the 82's versus the 5000's - especially with your setup. Inspect them, make sure they're minty. You could always try $450 and settle on the $500 too.

It's almost as if it's a mass produced product. . . . Waitaminute...

Personally if you go with the 8" drivers, I'd almost exclusively look for RF-35's or RF-82's. The issue has more to do with the horn than the woofer.

The RF-62's are the match to your RC-62 and RB-61's. Your best bet would be those, the RF-25, RP-260F, and RP-600F. Make sure you don't look at the budget line (R-600F, I think they are?)

The manual is online: https://assets.onkyo-av.com/product-manuals/SN29403926A_TX-NR6100_En_200616_web_2022-11-02-210645_cjuw.pdf?v=1667423205 You will need to set up the unit and EQ it to some degree. It should have just as many "adjustment features" as your AVR 630.

Easy there, tiger. Most Sony's would be a huge downgrade, and depending on the Denon you're looking at, it wouldn't be much better. Start with telling us what you don't like about it. Next, your XO - I'd run Audessey first and see what it's feedback is. I tend to run flat, but the mic setup is a good baseline. Most recommendations are 80 Hz for the mains unless they're full range.

Have you considered contacting support? Computer Speakers – Klipsch

That's a loaded question imo. I think there's many different ways you can get the sound you want - or there's only one real way - and that's as unique as you are. Playing with the toe, EQ, tone controls, sources, and dampering (also room acoustics, but that's not always that simple) are your best bets. I would also recommend an XO rebuild. I think they'd benefit fairly well from that and possibly help that brightness a bit.

Paper can't hear or measure anything, so I'm not sure why this is even a factor here. The RP-600M's are fundamentally different in virtually every concept. To be so dismissive when you even said yourself that an amp/speaker combo would have been better (because it would have been, that's true) - is astounding. I feel for you on the Sevens, I really do - that's unfortunate. But this take on the 600's is balkable at best.

Good, that should help a little. I had thought once upon a time I had seen a similar complaint of the RF-7's on the forums here. If I'm recalling right, there was some fiddling with fabric in or around the horn that resolved the issue. I'd have to search the forums though to find exactly what it was.

They should be set to small. 100 Hz is probably okay, but they are not full range speakers at all, and shouldn't be run as if they are. You might also try 120 Hz for them. Not sure how capable they are at lower frequencies with a 4" driver.

I will say that I tend to ignore what my pre or AVR's say with configuration at the front when using floorstanding or full range speakers. I would encourage you to run them large if you aren't doing so already. That should help a little bit too.

No problem at all. The X2700 will be plenty for your application. It has the 3D modes and plenty of power for what you need to accomplish. I don't know of any true difference between the SA and SA II's - I assume they're similar in difference between the 3's and 3 II's (which was Monster Wire, I imagine the difference is similar in ambiguity or may be cosmetic). Either way, the II's should not be any issue and should integrate perfectly fine.

OP - I think you are having some hard times seeing the forest through the trees here on a few things - and that's okay. Let me try to put this into perspective for you. I've owned every speaker save the KSW-12 (I own the KSW-15) in your configuration and have run both S and X series Denon AVRs. Many older Klipsch speakers are just as good (and in a fair number of cases better) than their modern counterparts. Most of the folks on this forum all are running multiple-generations-old systems for any number of reasons: They prefer the sound. They're built better. The cost of upgrading does not present a sonic improvement for the value. They just like what they have. We all have gotten bit by the upgrade bug at one point, but you need to understand that the speakers you have are perfectly fine. Their modern counterpart is the RP-8000F. Would buying the RP-8000F be a noticeable upgrade over the RF-3? Only you could really decide if it'd be noticeable and worth the value. I personally think many of the new lines of Klipsch speakers fall well short of how they used to sound and what made them great. Onto buying NOS - like I said, there are many speakers that Klipsch just didn't build replacements for. The RF-63's and 83's are a good example of this. Likewise, there are many speakers that had a good iteration, and a not-so-great replacement. The RC-62 is one of these incarnations. In your setup, your sonically weak link is your RC-3. That doesn't make the RC-3 a bad speaker, it means that if you really wanted to upgrade, that's where your sonic improvement would be noticed the most. Your concern regarding 3D programming is valid; but the recommendation here is to make sure you're providing quality power with a well-built receiver that has a capable power section. The S series Denon does not do this. The X series does. For Atmos speakers, you can easily buy the addon speaker without getting all new speakers - that isn't necessary. Thus, the RP-500SA's I linked. You don't need to upgrade everything just to upgrade. Many speakers are perfectly capable of handling new applications despite their age - hell there are home theaters stocked with only La Scala's and Heresy. In your shoes, I'd upgrade in this order: Denon X series AVR New center channel Atmos Speakers Sidenote: I run RB-5's as heights for my Atmos configuration - they're not Atmos certified, nor designed with that in mind. They're dated 2000 - they do the job perfectly fine. Don't let age fool you like that - especially on a Klipsch speaker.

It's ca 2015ish. It's still a better center than the RC-3 and is often revered as one of Klipsch's best. I'd recommend that if you were looking to upgrade any speakers - otherwise the rest of what you have is pretty solid.

This confirms my thought. I just wasn't entirely sure since I hadn't dabbled in balanced outputs at all prior. It's a shame the 2125 nor the 2250 have balanced inputs.

Guys, I can appreciate the commentary on the looping noise - but I've resolved that issue in this system by taking the steps I outlined by simply not having two sets of outputs on a unit running to two inputs on two preamps - which for my purpose would be redundant anyway. My current question is the one mentioned having to do with the best connectivity, and thus far Schu's been the only one that's even addressed it.

Correct. Thus why I recommended you look at the X series AVRs from Denon (if you're sold on the Denon brand).

As long as I don't plug in a single source to both pre amps it isn't an issue.

^ Alternatively, just the addon Atmos speakers RP-500SA II Surround Sound Dolby Atmos Speakers | Klipsch

It's already fixed to the best that it can be.

Yes. A ton. Again, the issue has to do with the quality of the parts. The S series has a very anemic power supply that is prone to distort easily. It is not adept at delivering clean power. You want something that can deliver what you need cleanly and with enough overhead to prevent clipping and distortion. The X series is where you will get that result. The S series is not. The only reason I'd even upgrade is if you really think you need the 3D sound profiles, the current AVR you have is more than enough.

I know the digital vs. analog matter, it's just a matter of what is the best result. So, here we have the DACs: The Parasound uses a Burr-Brown PCM1798, the Yamaha a ESS SABRE Ultra DAC ES9016S. On paper it looks like the ESS in the Yamaha should be the better of the two, but then my question becomes am I creating more issues by adding another stage between the source and the output?