The History Kid
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Posts posted by The History Kid
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That one you're showing is in pretty rough shape. The 02-20144 refers to the matching Klipsch part number, they aren't the same diaphragm based on what I've had in hand.
These aren't the ones I have, but they're similar:
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8 hours ago, Gusss said:
Here are the diaphragms and XO's:
CD76TiM Titanium Tweeter Diaphragm - Pair - FREE US Shipping! – Crites Speakers
RF-3, RF-3 II Crossover - Pair, New - FREE US Shipping! – Crites Speakers
I don't remember which feet I purchased, but basically I purchased a set that has a beam across the bottom of the speaker rather than the floating feet that comes with them. This relieves some of the stress on the corners and can help with issues with the front baffle and the feet.
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4 hours ago, Gusss said:
I bought both sets (because of your late response) “just kidding”…. 🤣
Once they get to me, I still have to ship them down south, I’ll do a comparison.
I can only keep 1 pair.So, if I decide to to stay with the F3ii’s, what mods do you recommend, I’ve been reading about just changing caps, with better quality ones…
Everyone is different, there are many things you can do to them. My RF-3's have B&K crossovers in them that were reworked. I don't know if Bob's son has taken over the business, but if he has you could opt to get them built. If not, if you're good at soldering, replacing the caps would be a good bet. I'd have to double check, but I also know we beefed up the diaphragm in the horns too, fixed up the internal padding a bit and replaced the feet to help with the front baffle separation that some of the earlier Reference II's had. If you really want the look - you can use RF-35 drivers in the RF-3's as well - removes the black dust cap - but you aren't gaining anything over cosmetics (I personally like the caps myself).
The XO's are definitely where I'd start though, they're the most practical and most likely to improve your overall experience.
EQ them well (I actually just use tone controls and they open up well), feed them plenty of power, toe them, and pound it. Should be a great experience.
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On 2/19/2024 at 11:17 PM, Gusss said:
So…. I am probably confused…
whats better?
Rf3 ii (2001)
R-28F (2014)
I'm late to this, but to answer your question, you're talking about two fundamentally different series of speaker - as I mentioned in my post that you quoted. The R-28F's are the lesser of the two, with the IMG cone and aluminum tweeters. The RF-3's use cerametallic woofers and titanium tweeters. The 28's - as mentioned - lend themselves to the budget line of Klipsch speakers, while the 3's are more associated with the Reference Premier line. Although the RF-3's are first generation speakers, they're still some of the best budget pickups you can get, and with very little in the way of upgrades can be made to perform absolutely above and beyond their pricepoint.
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Please clarify:
R-800F, not FA?
Are you referring to "Height" or "Hi?"
If "Hi" they should be jumped to "Low." If "Height" they're atmos channels. So it's kind of a big deal to make sure you're clarifying and getting these terms right.
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This is a learning experience for me, so I have a stupid question to ask. Wouldn't this cause more intermittent issues? It doesn't seem to happen once it has a signal. Case in point, I used it last night after it stopped working and it's still working now. If it was something as described, would it be more intermittent, or not necessarily?
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I'm scratching my head here. After about an hour it's responding again?
Does this sound like a short? I'm just...stumped. What could possibly cause something like this? I sat here and even did the thumb-test on the lead - nothing. Then 45 minutes later the sub suddenly has signal when I do the same test? It's not in auto mode - at least not that I can tell. Is my sub haunted?
@OO1 - noted that. The most reviews I've seen has been for Edwards Electronics, so if I do repairs, it'll probably be there.
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16 hours ago, babadono said:
@The History Kid just saw this. Good deal on the RSW-15 but what the heck on the Parasound? Is just the output jack fried? Or do you see circuitry arond it burnt or what?
It's convenient you bring this up. Not sure, but the sub is back to being unresponsive after another outage. I'm not even getting feedback this time off the cable, so I'm back to waiting for options for repair or to see if I can get a replacement plate amp used. I'm wondering if that was all coincidental and the issue was still the sub.
I'm trying to weigh the options between repair and replace - if I replace it's unlikely I will go the Klipsch route since I can't fit the 16 in the space, and I'd like to go with a 15 in some form. But I'm also trying to weigh the value with it.
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13 hours ago, onezero said:
Yes, it only happens when it connects/pairs to the soundbar it seems. And the sound randomly shows up (it can be one time per day, or every 10 minutes) - is most likely that it gets disconnected and reconnected. Do you have any idea what frequency klipsch uses for it's wireless connections?
I don't, unfortunately. But there should be a way to mute that - I wish I could say for sure, but if that's the issue it comes down to two things:
1. Disruption from signals around it.
2. A problem with hardware.
Have you tried calling Klipsch or messaging them?
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Does it only happen when the sub turns on and upon pairing? I know that a lot of Klipsch wireless devices tend to have audible effects when powering and connecting but can be muted using some method or another.
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On 1/1/2024 at 6:08 AM, Frzninvt said:
Junk and junk. Plate amplifiers will fail it is just a matter of time.
Amplifiers will fail, it is just a matter of time. Fixed it for you. That's literally all electronics. Kinda why there's an industry for it.
The only plate amp I've ever had fail me was on my old HTIB Kenwood SW-22HT 8" sub - which should surprise no one.
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Bi-wiring wouldn't get you anything. Especially on an AVR.
Just use the jumpers and run one set of cables from the speakers to the terminals. You'll run your rears to the rear surround (or side surround) terminals, and the atmos to the height terminals.
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The RF-3's use 8" drivers, not 6" like the RB-3's. You should be able to use the RC-3's woofer, however. I'd still probably replace both if you can.
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On 1/20/2024 at 12:31 AM, liquified said:
Now time to unload my old center and my Denon-AVR 4520ci. How much do you think this receiver is worth? I feel
it definitely had value but I’m not sure how much
Glad Klipsch got you sorted.
I don't know the value on the 4520CI. The cursory view I did says between $300 and $600. RC-3's are probably in the $100-$200 range.
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That much I don't know. I'm sure there are some other variables I might be missing. The diaphragms could be different too, but I'm not sure that'd bring up a difference of 5 dB. I'll have to yield to the input from other experts here.
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I would still test it in the other working speaker just to rule it out entirely. Is it likely that you have three bad speakers? Not really, but is it possible? Sure.
When I said testing the others, I meant also testing the other speaker altogether. You want to do a comparison between the one system that's working against the one that isn't. Does that one also test at 5.9 ohms?
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I tend to prefer flat myself. There are some that get good results with the auto setup, and some that don't. I fall into the latter - sounds like you do too. Glad it's working out now. That 62 is a huge step up, don't be surprised if you need to do a few more tweaks after you get it.
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A company that verifies the warranty? BLASPHEMY! Every company should just always assume the purchase was valid and the S/N's are authentic.
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Just to clarify, "loud" means nothing without knowing where you're using the speaker.
The RS-3's are surround speakers, they aren't necessarily designed for "loud."
Now, you mention that you've moved the K106's around - around where exactly? You tested all three tweeters on one crossover, or you tested them across multiples? Did you check the readings against the "good" speaker?
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I'd start by setting all speakers except the RF-3's to small and cross the sub at 80 Hz. Set bass to both. Set the sub for now to 0 dB. Start there.
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Did you run Audessey? Have you configured the EQ to your own room settings beyind XT32? The Audessey should be your benchmark, you will need to dial in things beyond what it gives you. What do your settings look like?
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5 hours ago, Jeff frantz said:
Not exactly the same as this convo but…. Can I hook up left channel to speaker A and right channel to speaker B via the A/B button. I either have a bad channel on my avr or a bad speaker. Just trying to further troubleshoot the issue I got a bunch of old stuff and it seems I got a bad speaker that will trip the avr when volume is increased
This thread is over 20 years old. I recommend making a new thread - but to answer your question: yes. A/B switches generally won't cause any issues as long as they're properly assigned in the AVR's audio menu if applicable.
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3 minutes ago, sakayus said:
Awesome thanks for the input!!
I was guessing technology would be better by now, but if that’s the case then I’ll just stick with it. Great loud sound, musical and compact without being too heavy. (Can’t lift the svs 16 incher up to a 2nd story)
Technology, maybe. But the RSW-15 generally is regarded as the better performer. Better technology only takes you so far. Look at most Klipsch speaker designs in the Heritage line and compare them to the mainstream stuff. Look at many amplifiers now versus older ones. You start to notice that newer technology doesn't equate to better.
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Run, don't walk for this if you're still wanting to upgrade anything.
Sub 12 blowing fuses
in Subwoofers
Posted
The short answer is yes. There's more to a sub than just the driver. I had an RSW-10 outperform a PSW PRO 660i - which is a 12" Polk subwoofer. The Polk wasn't a bad woofer, it just wasn't designed the same as the RSW-10, used a different cabinet acoustic method, better amp - just all around different. Even a move from the R-12SW to the RP-1200SW would be a major difference in sonic experience.