The History Kid
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Posts posted by The History Kid
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Just now, hanksjim1 said:
why not run coax out (digital) to the parasound and xlr to the yamaha? Direct signal to both.
I have ample issues with ground loops in this system, and I am concerned that running things in that way would exacerbate the issue a bit. Also, extra wire, which I'd like to avoid if possible. Of course, I could totally be wrong, but I did decrease noise when removing looped connections like this before.
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I'm a little outside my league on this and wanted some input from the bright minds here. Here's the situation.
I recently purchased a Cambridge CXN for a decent price - it's been the only source I've been eyeing at all lately since I don't have a lot of upgrade potential anymore in my space. The CXN has virtually every output conceivable available, including Coaxial RCA and Balanced XLR.
The pre-amp section I'm handling is two-stage. Usually my two-channel sources have run into my Parasound 200 PRE. I'm using the TOSLINK and the USB input on this preamp, so the CXN could only use the Coaxial RCA or the standard unbalanced RCA. The amp out is unbalanced from the 200 PRE to my 2250 and 2125. There is also an HT-Bypass that runs to my Yamaha CX-A5100. Here's where I get lost a bit. The CX-A5100 has balanced XLR inputs.
Am I better off using the Coaxial RCA to the Parasound or the Balanced XLR to the Yamaha?
My understanding tells me that regardless of if the signal is balanced to the Yamaha or unbalanced RCA to the Parasound, it'd be virtually the same signal passed to the amplifiers because neither of those outputs from the preamps are balanced. In addition, running balanced to the Yamaha would mean the signal would have to travel an extra stage. Is my reasoning correct?
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On 12/31/2023 at 10:15 AM, pzannucci said:
Newer version of what? Looks quite a bit older.
Like the integration 🙂 What dollars is that amount in?
Looks to be one of those speakers that starts out as a one driver system, then you add parts at your leasure.
Comes out to around $300ish. LUL
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OP, how do you know these are JBL speakers? First it was Klipsch, now it's JBL. Are the drivers JBL? Did you take pictures of them? Are there model numbers anywhere? All of this information would help you with your sale. You also need to include a price and include a location.
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Looks like an RC-25 or 35 too (with the RB-35's) with a Polk sub and AVR for $300. Not a bad deal at all.
No affil.
Complete Stereo System - electronics - by owner - sale - craigslist
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Also a correction for you, those are not R-51M's, they're RB-51 II's from the looks of it. Much better speakers too.
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9 hours ago, johnq said:
The system sounds great at full volume can't even get a whisper of distortion. Which leads me to feel I need more power for all of this. Can anyone suggest or share what kind and brand of extra amplification are best suited.
None, if it's clean at Reference Level, then it's the endzone. You don't want distortion - that's kind of the whole point.
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There might be someone around here with an answer, but I would encourage you to reach out to Denon's support or see if there are some support forums for Denon audio. The speakers are fine, it sounds like a limitation of the processor programming which isn't something anyone can really do anything about.
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9 hours ago, Ceptorman said:
Replacing the factory speakers can go a long way in making the system sound better.
This. Don't go adding subwoofers unless you determine you really need them. That should be the last place you look to make changes. Start with speakers already in the car, then the head unit. Then if you're still unsatisfied, look at subs.
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So, an update on this - and I'm seeking continued input from the folks smarter than I.
When I'm able to get the unit powered on - there *is* a signal, it's just incredibly low quality, over muddied, and seems to require extra gain off the side volume dial. Does this still seem like an issue on the board, or could it also be a driver issue?
EDIT - IT LIVES! By god, it appears that the issue is actually my Parasound Pre Amp. The Subwoofer 1 Output is bad and fried. Switching to Subwoofer 2 resulted in it springing to life again as it was. (My wallet and I are both very happy.)
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You'd be better off to just not connect the speakers up top. You'd be running them in parallel, which will have less than ideal results and could even cause problems on the cheaper Denon AVR's. They don't have a very beefy power supply, and they aren't exactly known for pushing the cleanest power with the anemic power supply they have. I'd just DC the Atmos for now and run a simple 5.1 setup.
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39 minutes ago, Nathat777 said:
Okay for sure, that makes sense, thank you for the assistance! Now one more quick question if you don’t mind: If I just wanted to use the speakers by themselves for a 2.1, what type of amp should I get, like in terms of power. I’m not sure what would be the optimum wattage to be sent to the rb5’s. Thank you again friend!
That depends on your budget. I run my RB-5's mostly in a configuration with a Parasound NewClassic 200PRE pre amp and a 2125v2 amplifier. You could probably find a good Yamaha stereo amp for around $300 on Accessories4Less. If you know what you're looking for you could also look on the used market. Aim for 100 WPC on a 2 channel amp, again, like wuzzer mentioned. I think on average (assuming I can trust my power management meters) I run between 3 and 36 watts at any given time with them in my setup.
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18 hours ago, Nathat777 said:
I see I see, thank you again for the input. Now I have a possibly simple question. Would I be able to use my unused additional sub preamp to run an external amplifier to the rb-5s to more amply power them?As wuzzer said, no. That is not what that pre-out is meant to do. You would best be served by upgrading your AVR to a unit with cleaner power, and possibly some pre-outs for expansion later.
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I mean, you certainly run that risk with a form factor change, timbre, and imaging across the front sound stage - I won't lie to you and tell you they won't overbear the center. The Sony AVR you quoted has a total output of 240W, so it works out to about 30 or so watts per channel. That's not a lot - and while the RB-5's don't need nearly that much I would be concerned that your Sony is a bit anemic. I think you'd be better off upgrading the AVR than investing in an additional preamp for the time being.
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They're a steal at $20. A literal steal. Those speakers easily still sell for about $200. They're one of the best bookshelf speakers Klipsch ever made, and play much larger than their footprint. If you have a good amplifier and a good preamp, you honestly may not need a sub depending on your room and listening habits. If you're leaning more movies (i.e. the 7.2), you'd want a sub almost regardless.
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I've listened to my fair share of speakers from many brands over the years, but Klipsch was always what caught my ear. I've always liked how they sounded and how they looked - the two biggest things probably when pursuing audio greatness. That being said, I've also been an avid critic of many Klipsch designs over the years, especially the "modern" "Reference" series, and the in-between-years of second gen Reference and Reference Premier. But I'm still a fan at heart, and I base it off my experience of the sound, not the science - which I think we often get way too caught up in.
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An update on this, my dealer mistakenly thought he could still source an amp. Edwards Electronics hasn't gotten back to me yet. I think my COA is to see if I can work with the dealer to get an RP-1600SW at a good price again, then wait for repair on the 15 - once it's repaired, I'll either keep the 1600SW in this system and put the 15 in place of a KSW-15 I have on another system, or put it back where it was and put the 1600 there. Either way, I still can't part with this 15, it's so pretty and sounded amazing, it'd be a shame to part with it.
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Sounds like I'm going to use a substitute plate amp for the time being, while getting the original repaired. Edwards Electronics seems to be the most reputable I found, but they aren't accepting repairs right now. So I'll hold onto the damaged unit until repairs can be made. I just can't bring myself to part with the RSW-15.
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Based on everything I'm reading it doesn't seem quite as simple as sealing the port, installing a terminal, and adding an amp. Seems like it may be a bit more involved. So it looks like my best two options are to repair or replace.
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I wouldn't say that I can't live without it. My thing is mostly tied to having the space torn up - I guess it's a sorta OCD thing. I'll have to reach out and see what repair costs would be. Right now, it looks like the RP-1600SW is running $1,169 on sale - which really isn't bad, but the problem is the footprint is so much bigger - that might be what ultimately has me spending more than what I normally would on a repair versus replacement.
I think part of me is worried about performing work on a 23-year-old plate amp in a subwoofer - and how dependable it'd be beyond. Kinda like a car. Is this the start of an ongoing series of repairs that I'd avoid just by getting a new sub, or is it something that's worth converting into something else? Questions you weigh and the whatnot.
Is there a thread on converting these to passive, speaking of which?
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Thank you both, I'll weigh my options. It looks like the turnaround on these might be a bit spicy - any feedback on that?
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I picked it up second hand from a seller I think either my second or third year of my job - so about 6 years ago. It sadly went through one-too-many power outages. Despite being on a surge protector it no longer receives power. Actually, it's a bit of a scratcher. It sometimes won't power at all, but other times the green light will come on dimly.
Before I chalk this up as a need to go to the RP-1600SW (which looks mighty good on sale) and part out the 15, does anyone know of a simple troubleshoot? I have no place around me to service this, and I'm not sure I'd be good troubleshooting innards myself.
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Sold
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Sale pending.
Question about older floor standing and center speakers
in Home Theater
Posted
Of all the speakers you have, in order of weakness they are as follows:
RC-3 II, KSW-12, RS-3 II, then the RF-3 II's.
How much have the speakers changed? A lot. Is it a worthwhile upgrade though? That's entirely up to the end user. I personally prefer my RF-3's to the RP-8000's and I know many others who prefer the sound to the newer models as well. The AVR-S970H isn't just a lower end receiver, it's also in a lower class from the 4520, anemic power supply - you'd really want your old AVR back most likely for that swap.
I recommend swapping to an X series Denon first, then upgrade your center channel, then your subwoofer. I'd look for an RC-62 used, personally.
All that being said - your speakers are fine. Center channel is the area of most desire.