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The History Kid

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Posts posted by The History Kid

  1. On 1/7/2022 at 4:08 PM, blueyeleon said:

    I get that it's the biggest woofer ever put in a Klipsch bookshelf speaker.

     

    Just to clarify, that is false.  The RB-5, RB-5 II, RB-35, RB-81, and RB-81 II all used 8" woofers - and that's just the Reference lines.

    • Like 2
  2. There should be a fair amount of stands that work with the RS-3's.  I've seen a fair share of them out there, but I couldn't tell you what they are.  I've always had mine on the walls.  You should be able to use just about any stand that doesn't use guides or screws (using padded feet and grips) that can be used for surrounds.

  3. Secondary bump.  I have spoken with the repair guys - they are just waiting on the new board for the unit.  Apparently the last one was DOA.  Not good considering the shortage of supply in chips right now.  I'm probably going to try and sell these as a pair at this point.  $1,400 to forum members plus shipping for the pair.

     

    I'll update perspective interest as I get updates from the repair shop (no final commitments until I have both units to ship, I'd just like to have this unit shipped from the distro to the new owner).  My goal is to have these units sold ahead of an anticipated extended leave for work.  I anticipate sale would be around or just after the holidays.

  4. 2 hours ago, LostBoyNZ said:

    Someone else recommended I consider the THX-6000-LCR. I have no idea if they're a big upgrade over the RF-7 II and RC-64 II or not?

     

    I have heard many things on the 6000-LCR's.  Mostly that if you're just doing movies and nothing else, they sound really good - but that's about it.  If you ever intend to have music in that room, they'll sound like a watered down mess.  If I'm remembering right too, they're older than the 7 II and 64 II, and were never replaced.  So you need to think; if Klipsch didn't replace them and kept on with the 7 and 64's, then that's probably where I'd place my bets.  The only thing I'd swap out in there is the 64 for another 7, but that may not be practical - and if you were to do this, the 6000-LCR would have no leg to stand on to begin with.

  5. Unfortunately I'm not a very good reference for tubes since I'm mostly solid state myself.  The monoprice was affordable and the footprint was right for the space I was handling and the speakers I was powering.  The only other brand I'm aware of at a price that I'd call reasonable is Schiit.

  6. 51 minutes ago, Aragorn said:

    RP8000s are rated for a 30x30 room!

     

    This is absolute bunk, and I'm disappointed there's someone in the team that's making up numbers like this.  These speakers aren't "rated" for room sizes - no speaker is, and if it is, it shouldn't be.

  7. 3 hours ago, AVP said:

    Sorry. I am going to run a 4 way active crossover. My RF5’s would be responsible for the hi’s and mid/hi’s. I want to amplify my tweeters with a tube amplifier. The 8” would be a seperate solid state amplifier. My understanding is that this is possible because of the LF/HF option on the back. Thank you for your response. 

    As long as you disconnect the passive inside the speaker that should be possible.  Otherwise your 4-way AXO won't do a darn thing other than add a headache.

     

    To be clear it's not possible because of the HF/LF terminals on the back.  All four terminals may as well be two as they're shipped.  To use them as HF/LF you will need to take the passive crossover on the back of the cup out of the equation. 

     

    As for tube amps, I reckon that will depend largely on what you're mainly using your RF-5's for.  I could make the simple recommendation of one of the Monoprice 50-watt tube amps, which power a pair of RSX-5's beautifully for me, but that might not be the best in your situation if we don't know what it is.

  8. Most of that will have to do with the power supply unit of the PC, and the proximity of the pre section in the PC to the rest of the topography of the other components (including how good the shielding is).  My Dell computers were terrible with noise, mostly because the motherboards in them are just standard breadbox boards that aren't really built with anything other than cost cutting in mind.  When I moved to a custom build with my MSI board, there was still noise until I swapped out the power cable with just a little bit better quality one.

     

    In addition, heat can cause significant problems with components in PCs.  You will see degradation over time.   Laptops almost always will run hotter than desktops.

  9. 20 minutes ago, JoeHawkins said:

    Yes, well the add-on itch maybe. Just trying to figure it out what would make it just that little bit better.

    id say I hardly ever use 100. Don’t think I ever have, tbh 

     

    My point there is that the sub is probably fine in your configuration, but otherwise...the assessment with the 110 is correct.  That being said, you will only gain approximately 3 dB with adding the second sub - but with better coverage is all.  You would want to look at maybe one of the SPL lines?  I think that's the current.

  10. 1 hour ago, JoeHawkins said:

    No I didn’t. I also thought my two little bookshelves sounded quite good. ;)

     

    So the short response is that you just have the upgrade itch.

     

    While it's true that you would generally have a sub that outputs more than your mains, consider the following: How often do you think you're using 100 W of power on your Quartets?

  11. 2 hours ago, JoeHawkins said:

    Just to start this, I’m a complete novice and have a question. I was recently told my sub should have 4 to 5 times the wattage of my speakers. Now, what I’m wondering is the following. My speakers, Klipsch quartets, have 100 each. My current sub (sw-110 has 200watt) sounds quite good the way I got it set up. But it’s not 4-5 times the wattage. Would I be well served by getting a second set-110 or get rid of mine and get just one with 400-500 watt? I’m confused.

     

    I listen fairly loud and haven’t had any issues with my current setup. Just wondering about options and what would be better. 
    thanks

     

    OP, you just answered your own question.  See bold/underlined.

     

    It's not broken, don't fix it.

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, AndreG. said:

    Michael, You wouldn´t happen to have some photos of your work-progress then?

     

    I don't remember if I took photos when I did the foam treatments.  I think I had photos when I installed the XO's though, because they're actually on the back of the baffles rather than above the terminal cup.  The foam that I used on the back was actually trimmed foam from the wrapping of the bass port (because the need of room for the XO).  If I get a chance to take them apart again, I'll snap photos though.

    • Like 1
  13. 6 hours ago, jjptkd said:

    I didn't really modify mine just had the caps replaced in the crossovers I believe I went with Daytons from Partsexpress there's a few threads here specifically on RF-3 crossovers and modifications I'll try and find one for you.

     

    That OP looks familiar :lol:

     

    These are indeed the XO's in my current RF-3's.  They cleaned a lot up for the towers.  The diaphragm cleaned them up a little bit more and made them a little less harsh.  The wrapping of the wire inside and laying out the foam in the back (inside of course) helped with some relatively tighter bass response.  They sound different enough that they're *very* obvious in A/B between a stock RF-3 and the modded RF-3.

    • Like 1
  14. 8 minutes ago, AndreG. said:

    Did You modify any RF3? Because, as one of my future projects, i thought about doing some real verneer on mine, and while i´m at maybe brace the cabinets and probably take a look at the XOs as well.

     

    I have modded RF-3 II's.  The XO's are S/N1 and S/N2 B&K XO's.  I replaced the diaphragms as well with some Crites spec'd ones and added a little extra foam on the rear of the speaker behind the woofers (made sure all the wires were wrapped too).  Still have the stock cabs and drivers though.

    • Like 1
  15. 7 minutes ago, erikcave said:

    Thanks for all of your input.  I am picking up the speakers today for $300.  I am very excited.

     

    That's stealing.  Excellent deal, OP!

     

    Quote

    Now I will turn my attention to my surrounds.  I am not too worried about them, but it would be nice to have a matching set.

     

    You are correct that you shouldn't be too worried about them.  Enjoy what you're getting right now and start saving.  By the time you start feeling the itch, you should have enough saved up for some great speakers.  Your front three are what you'll hear the most, so enjoy them for now!

     

    Andre is correct (above - just posted) - the RS-35's are the designated match to the RF-35's.  However you should have a little wiggle room there up to the RS-62's if your budget eventually allows.  But I digress, enjoy for now - itch later.

    • Like 2
  16. Age does not mean much when talking audio - especially speakers.  Some of the best speakers you'll see and hear are older (look at most KHorns, Heresy, Chorus, Belles, etc).  The newest speaker in any of my configurations is dated 2007, the next newest is 2003.  

     

    Alone the RF-35's *or* the RC-62 II are easily $350 - so that's a hell of a deal.  The 35's are the speakers that replaced the RF-3's and RF-3 II's.  They were superseded by the RF-82.  All will perform well over the R-28F as originally posted.

  17. Count me as another vote to Yamaha's CX-A preamps.  I'm floored at the quality of build in my 5100 and it does all that I want and more.  I was able to get it on A4L for $1,500.  I don't use the YPAO, but most people that I know of that use it rave about it.  

     

    At the risk of a few fans balking at me, I will share that I can't stay far enough away from Emotiva products.  Every single Emotiva pre or unit that I've owned that's had some kind of digital interface has had problems or failed in an unreasonably short amount of time. I don't know about their newer stuff, but at least as recently as their MC-700, their pre's and CD transports were abysmal (oops, it's a day out of warranty...guess you'll have to pay us $200 to look at it, plus shipping).  Oof.

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