Rick J B

Interesting idea. I have never sprayed lacquer on top of shellac and don't know if shellac could withstand the chemicals in lacquer. Not many coatings do well with lacquer and its chemical makeup. Um, it'll be fine. Over the 30 years I owned a cabinet shop the amount of precat and conversion varnish I've sprayed over shellac is measured in the thousands of gallons.

thanks Rick, actually it's a customized (designed and made in Iran) multi-axis single spindle CNC machine that is controlled with Artcam and Mach3 software. it has an automatic tools changer with 12 section so there is no need to change anything manually it's just like a Swiss army knife. the spindle is a HSD heavy duty made in Italy, it's the only spindle that could cut BB plywood as thick as 3 inches with no problem. after all it's damn good at accuracy. the cuts are just precise. it utilizes a special linear bearing and ball-screw for least tolerance. we use a 43 sq feet/minute vacuum pump for suction. I don't know much about Point to point machines but the router we use is a continuous routing machine that can change change X,Y,Z axises at the same time according to the given G-code thus is able to engrave complicated shapes. once we tried to shape a elliptical tractrix horn into MDF with a bullnose and the result was fantastic. even there were no need for a sanding! 8a2113e947dfae4f23dd15e0bcd391a6024bf50439d0a8fd51fbef9a0caca922.jpg 00f3a647ecfda076e5f4f468078eae6e7da106528e63f0411da1db5c32db5578.jpg752432e5af6ad5a48e1fdae2bd456bdcd2ee4b443600bd3affdf2d8a7594551d.jpg Very nice. What you describe is what is known to me as a point to point. 3 axis, with tool changer. My 13 had a ceramic bearing router, 5 head gang drill and a grooving saw. With such a rig you can create whatever your programing skills will allow. Have fun, my friend. Rick

Very cool. Arash, are you guys using a CNC router, or a point to point machine? I only ask because I find numerically controlled machines cool. The last one I owned was a Rover-13 point to point. Cool project.

Rudy, you can control wood movement a bit by using a couple of coats of shellac under your lacquer finish. Shellac makes an excellent sanding sealer and slows down moisture transfer quite well. It also makes a good general purpose finish, just don't spill vodka on it. For sealer, a thin one pound cut works great.

The Knu Koncepts oxygen free copper in 12 and 16 gauge is nice stuff and inexpensive on amazon.

I'm going to have to try these in my up coming Belle build. At this price point even if you decided to try another woofer you're not going to lose your shirt.

Or even better, why does a certain driver work in the Belle, or whatever horn????

Lacquer sticks. They work in some instances but not every instance. Better than filler tho. If the wood fibers are torn or broken it will always be visible to one extent or another. Raw birch has no protection, or are you talking about natural finished birch?

15a is only good for Open Baffle bass. Look up Martin King. Gotcha. I guess they're similar to my augies then. (Hawthorn via Eminence)

So, for conversations sake, how would the Kappa 15C and the 15A compare to each other?

He probably gets the "you don't have permission for that" deal I've always gotten.

So, Dennis, are you going to share what horns/drivers you used up top?

Cool. As to the type of wood used in the original photo, it has grain like walnut, but seems too light in color (tho photos can be funny) so I thought of Butternut, but I doubt Klipsch used that. I think its an odd photo. Its an open grain hardwood, so cherry, maple and birch are out, yet its quite light for walnut,.........

Karson, it would be a good idea and no doubt interesting to contact the crossover guys mentioned in this thread. Bob, Dennis, Dean and Al could give you more insight into what would work for your Cornscala's and I'd imagine give you a nice spread of costs and up grade paths.

I'm obviously no expert, but I do have opinions! In a speaker set up like the cornscalas it is my personal belief that the most critical component is the crossovers. Assuming your enclosure and chosen drivers make sense, (Bob has shown you the way here) its the crossover that will make or break the outcome. You can cut corners like using mdf vs quality plywood, or fiberglass horns vs custom wood units, but if you go cheap on the crossover you'll regret it every time you listen to the speakers. I especially wouldn't use a crossover designed for a totally different setup just to save a hundred bucks.