ninjai18

Definitely go for one of the old flagship models from either Denon or Onkyo that came out a few years before the Atmos craze. They are FAR superior to the tiny "feature packed" light weight receivers they are making these days. New flagship models are a joke.

I was wondering why the RF-5 has a higher crossover frequency of 2500hz compared to the RF-3's, which is 2000hz~. This makes no sense to me, as the RF-5 has a larger horn, and I do believe the rule of thumb is, the bigger the horn, the lower the crossover point, the better the sound. Can anyone explain why they did this?

Terrorism is what we do to animals. How we treat sentient beings like property.

Anyone know if they might be releasing a mk2 series for the Palladiums at any point? Would be cool to see them further refine and upgrade the series.

Ah, I see, very cool. How thick is that foam? And I assume it's open cell foam?

I am actually still trying to get my head around exactly how you permanently mount it and where it goes, exactly...

It looks like he's putting in inside the horn, are my eyes playing tricks on me?

Ninjai, I have a pair of RF3's also and was looking into upgrading them, What mods did you do to the crossover? I did all new crossover parts from Parts Express. The only original part I kept was the original iron-core inductor in the woofer section of the crossover per DeanG's recommendation. Message me for more details, I'd be happy to help!

I have upgraded my crossover networks to have all better parts, but with the same values. What I'm wondering is, can't you just use one air core coil, instead of two? Why not use one 0.55 mH coil, instead of using a 0.25 mH and a 0.30 mH? Would there be any harm in simplifying and using just one bigger coil that is the combined mH of the two smaller ones?

I agree, I cannot wait to see the schematics for it! I am probably going to do these upgrades, as they seem well founded. I am wondering though, I would like to do something similar to the crossovers in my matching RC-3 II center and RS-3 II surrounds. How would I go about doing that? Any chance you're going to measure those, as well?

Maybe they have Bob Crites or DeanG crossovers in them? I wish...

Did that, too. Put some nice 14 Gauge wire in there. These speakers now sound like they're worth thousands more than I paid; I have heard RF-7 IIs and B&W 800 series towers. I'll just say this, my upgraded/modded RF-3 II system compares favorably.

I have the RF-3 II system, and I am curious as to what else I could do to mod my woofers and tweeters to make them sound as good as possible? I have added damping with Dynamat to all drivers, braced the cabinets better, and completely rebuilt my crossovers with much better parts (all upgrades I've done have yielded MUCH better sound). I also put light foam on the speaker internal walls. Moray James gave me some great tips, and said I should also add 1/8" felt over the spider on the drivers, which I do intend to do, as well. Just curious about any other improvements you all know about that don't include changing out drivers or buying whole new speakers. So, show or tell what mods you know about!

So, this is the official values Klipsch uses. I used the original values to do mine and they sound great, though I am curious to see what he came up with for values based on his REW measurements. My interest is peaked!

No, they couldn't hang with RF-7s, that is a good point, as the horn and woofers and overall enclosure are better in the RF-7s. But I will say, I have heard stock RF-7s, and while they do sound great, I certainly prefer the sound of my fully modded RF-3 IIs. But that's just me. Now, I can't even imagine how incredible some upgraded/modded RF-7s would sound! Okay, I was probably being a bit hasty saying "screw buying high end speakers" - many consider RF-7s to be high end (I know, it's a matter of perspective) and they certainly are worth the cost of entry, My end-all be-all of speakers is an RF-7 II HT system with fully upgraded crossover networks, better bracing in place, and the damping mods.

I think upgrading crossover parts is absolutely worth it. I personally scrapped my original crossover boards and rebuilt them, but with the same value parts, just far higher quality ones from Parts Express. Couldn't possibly be happier. Just bought new air core inductors I will be putting in today. Also added much stronger internal cabinet bracing, as well as damping the horn and woofers. The difference really is unbelievable. They sound like much much more expensive speakers. Screw buying high end speakers, just buy a good old used set of Klipsch speakers and do some mods. (did same mods to matching center and surrounds) Only paid $100 for the RF-3 II towers. Yet I get many people saying they are, hands down, the best speakers they have ever heard. (having acoustic room treatments and Audyssey Multi EQ helps, as well)

How would you go about applying the 1/8" acoustical felt over the spider?

cannot recall if it is on the list here but I do remember that it is the same as the RF82 there was no network change only internal wire and some cosmetics I believe. Actually I believe the RF-82 is crossed at 2000hz, and the RF-82 II is crossed at 1400hz.

What don't you like about the sound of the Premiere towers?

Will they be releasing an add-on speaker like they did for the Premiere Reference line? It would be really nice to have a timbre matched Atmos add-on option for the RF-7 II system.

Just wait till you hear them with better caps, resistors, and coils in them. I did full crossover upgrades to them, and holy hell, absolutely unbelievable!!

Oh okay, kind of a bummer, but it's okay, they are amazing speakers.

YES, it should be $15, and people should not go bankrupt from hospital bills. This country is so behind in social justice.

Awesome! Thanks man, you are super helpful!

I think I just might look into a real wood veneer. I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this. Toothpicks and wood glue would be the easy way out. Filling the old holes with Bondo & pre-drilling new screw holes would be my choice. I think I'll go with the first option, I'm not sure how you could drill new holes? The holes just wouldn't line up with the mounting holes on the drivers for the RF-4s, they aren't perfect circles. Any chance of a walkthrough for the toothpick and wood glue option?