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About wdecho

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  1. Don't even bother, way too difficult

    Good place to start. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/loudspeakers/
  2. Don't even bother, way too difficult

    I understand that there are cell phones for kids that only they can hear ring. A 35 hz to 18k hz speaker that is reasonable flat is all one should be concerned about. You will not go wrong building the cornscala speaker. I would love to hear the 2 way myself. Bob Crites is a knowledgeable, honorable guy.
  3. Don't even bother, way too difficult

    On the top end you will get into the RF range. Waste of time and money. Dog whistles produce a sound dogs hear but most humans do not. Attainable but unnecessary. Might be fun to do but you will only know it is there with test equipment. A 20 hz note is more felt than heard. I never worry about anything under 30 or 40 hz myself. More 40 hz than 30hz. I own LaScala's that go nolower the 50 or 60 hz. I own a decent sub I built but I mainly listen with it turned off.
  4. Don't even bother, way too difficult

    Every electronic component in the audio path brings with it the good and bad. The more components you add the more bad you have to compensate for. If you after loud digital sound probably will not matter. I believe you would love the newer digital amplifiers.
  5. Don't even bother, way too difficult

    First 20 hz is not a realistic goal. Attainable but not easy or cheap. There are some subs that can produce a 20hz note but not at the same level as a 60 hz note. Produce maybe but not at the same level. And on the high end the range of human hearing is 20 khz. Being almost 69 years old my high range is approximately 12K now. There is hardly anything musical above 18K or even lower. Do some research and find the range of musical instruments and you will see what I am talking about. A realistic goal can be achieved in a 2 way system but not cheaply. Most build 3 ways for this reason. Bob Crites has useful information on a horn build here. http://www.critesspeakers.com/cornscala.html
  6. An insane or completely sane question

    A lot depends on what you expect from a speaker or the sound you are after. I think you have found different opinions on this forum about what constitutes good sound. No one is wrong, it boils down with what someone considers best. There are those that are after quick, dynamic, loud reproduction and those that are after the purist sound over the former. There is a lot of interest on another forum of these full range drivers that cover most of the audio range. I am not aware of any speaker that covers any where near what you asked about. https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/loudspeaker-drivers Many of the finest full range speakers cost much more. I would not expect loud with such speakers but quality sound. I have never pulled the trigger on any full range speaker. I like the quickness and dynamics of horns and their ability to produce extreme sound levels with excellent detail. Fostex full range speakers are reasonable priced many like if you want to play with a full range driver. Perhaps you may like the kind of speaker you first mentioned but it will take much time even with active X-overs with test equipment to dial it in correctly.
  7. An insane or completely sane question

    Completely opposite from what I believe. Simple is better. If not a 2 or 3 way horn possible one full range driver for me. All crossover components whether active or passive are there to correct a problem with the cone speaker or driver. For example, the reason for different speakers, bass, mid, highs is because one speaker, driver, will not cover the full audio spectrum by itself. Hence the popularity of the 2 way pro speaker from Klipsch for serious horn lovers.
  8. Amps make no sense

    I have many amplifiers but one feels like you could reach out and touch the performer. My single ended 45 tube amplifier. No coloring of the sound that I can distinguish. Not cheap to buy or build and only a couple of watts. Little weak on the bottom but no problem with the addition of a sub. The SE45 is loved by many who say the same thing.
  9. Amps make no sense

    The parts cost of most amplifiers is very small compared to the R & D to design a new excellent sounding amplifier. That and one must take in consideration that in the general scheme of things it is a small market where very few will be made and sold. Quantity made reduces cost per unit in mass market made products. Fewer sales dictates higher cost per unit. When you move to Class A SS the hardware involved raises the cost considerably. Heavy expensive heatsinks, big transformer, costly PS section is some of the differences vs other forms of amplification. I also use to wonder why an amplifier made by Firstwatt or PassLabs was so expensive. One of the biggest cost other than hardware is the labor intensive matching of the components at the temperature the amplifier will run at. When you are purchasing a PassLabs amplifier you will get an amplifier that has had many hands on steps to achieve the maximum amount of audio production from one of the best designers in the world. Much can also be said about the other manufacturers of class A amplifiers but without the labor extensive matching of components. With a Passlabs amplifier you will get a product that will last for many, many years and it is an amp that is not a throw away like most audio amplification amplifiers. Firstwatt and Passlabs are just examples. Tube amplifiers is another case of expensive hardware to build in limited numbers. There are DAC's that are pretty decent in the $100 range and also others that exceed $5000. You can be sure that the 5 grand one has very little value in the parts inside. There are very many excellent sounding long lasting amplifiers in the $1000 to $2000 range now and many good ones that cost far less. There is no better time to purchase a quality made amplifier than now, at least in my 50 or 60 year experience in audio.
  10. Raising P.S. Capacitance

    CL-60 in series on mains if concerned. With just the value increase you are talking about I would consider it not necessary though if you had no problem before. I would not consider ESR a problem on a new cap for power supply. Even the best pill has side effects. One has to weigh the value vs consequence.
  11. Why I DIY

    Looking good. For those unfamiliar with a diy BA-2, or as some call a BA-3 as it is called when the BA-3 driver board is installed, it is very similar to a Firstwatt F4 with a preamp board inside the case as well. One of my favorites of the Firstwatt clones I have built and own.
  12. Raising P.S. Capacitance

    Correct. One could too far in the extreme with a diy but hardly with a production box due to physical restraints. Typical capacitance with a Class A is 60,000uf per bank of caps. Some builders go much higher. When you get too far in the extreme other factors do come into play but hardly worth mentioning in a production amp. A higher voltage rating is desirable in a cap along with a higher temp rating as well. Typically the temp ranges available are 85C and 105C with 105C preferable. Probably overkill for most circumstances.
  13. Raising P.S. Capacitance

    Not sure exactly what you mean. Are you talking about the physical size of the cap? Knowing if a larger value cap will fit should be a no brainer for anyone working on electronic equipment.
  14. Raising P.S. Capacitance

    Deoxit for the pots and no problem with increasing capacitance or voltage rating of caps.