wdecho

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About wdecho

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  1. This forum exist for the benefit of Klipsch and not the promotion of sellers with other products period. Let the members praise other products as should be the case. I agree with Neil the OP that one should just ignore the clowns and not feed them. I think the forum has made a turn and is much better now with fewer flaming post. We should all be Ladies and Gentlemen and respect others opinions in a positive way. A few bad apples can ruin an entire barrel. Nothing wrong with disagreements but in a civil way. Our fine moderators are doing a great job now. William
  2. Pontification, just stating facts. If then not moderators who then? I had to look up your $5 word to understand the meaning but then that was your point. I am not going to get into a long flaming thread with you. I agree with the fact that self-promotion has largely been stopped but not willingly by the moderators of which you are not aware. The reason for my above statement. I do not participate on this forum much anymore because with many I am not welcome but I love my Klipsch speakers and am willing to help someone on a specific topic if I can. That being said I have made many good friends on this forum. Moderators are made up of long time members with many post so it is natural they have many friends but this forum should not be for just a clique group. As with any group of people there are good ones and others not so good. I apologize to the good ones if they were offended. But some moderators have openly insulted me subtly on this forum without mentioning my name because I did not agree with their policy of allowing self-promotion. It just showed their true character with their offensive post and they know who they are. They attacked me for righting a wrong with very offensive language knowing that I would understand who they were referring to. I guess they thought they would run me off but I am still here, occasionally. I mostly stick with more technical forums with proper moderating. William
  3. Who has allowed this happen over the years? Could it be the biased moderators of old taking sides with their friends who attend the Klipsch gathering every year? Moderators are supposed to keep this from happening, at least that is what is done on respected forums or at least I thought so. Notice I said moderators of old. One must not offend the moderators, right, or one could get some grade school warning points. That being said I do think the changes made lately are for the better. I hope this forum grows without letting certain members use the forum for profit even if their product is good. Let members praise the products not venders.
  4. The bass of a LaScala should in no way be muddy. Something is wrong. Nothing wrong with bracing cabinet but from your description you have a problem with the speaker or crossover. A LaScala does not go down into the wall shaking bass stage below 50hz but the bass it makes is outstanding. Some detective work is called for.
  5. The description pretty much says it all. This is the only 16 ohm one Parts Express sells. Check the impedance on the mid driver to be sure the driver you have says 16 ohm. If 8 ohm pick an 8 ohm L-pad. Try 2 on the mids at least. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-l-pad-attenuator-100w-mono-3-8-shaft-16-ohm--260-261 For the tweeter this one is plenty enough if the driver is 8 ohm. https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-l-pad-attenuator-15w-mono-3-8-shaft-8-ohm--260-248
  6. I've said this many times and some on this forum and say "you cannot do that" but I just do say it. Throw some L-pads on the mids and tweeter and tailor the sound to your taste. Cheap and not hard to do and I can almost guarantee it will solve the shouty problem. If not, not much blood lost. https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=l-pads&sitesearch=true
  7. I have heard many people like t try the different settings and pick out the one that sounds best to them. A speaker's impedance is not set in stone but generally has a lot of range depending on frequency. Pick the one that sounds best to you and go with it. A better description of the impedance of a speaker is said as "the nominal impedance of this speaker is" with emphasis on nominal.
  8. Chris the subject has came up on the diyaudio forum on the Pass Labs section about the F1 and F2 amplifiers and Nelson commented that a later model amplifier as being better himself. If my memory is correct this is the design he recommended for diyer's. http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_zen_ ga10jt12.pdf You have to take in consideration that this is a 20 year old design and the first amplifier marketed by Nelson as a Firstwatt brand. The transistors to make either the F1J or F2J are obsolete and virtually unobtainable. I have built the Zen 8 and Zen 9 amplifiers along with the Firstwatt F3 and I know that the Zen 8 and the Zen 9 are very easily converted to a transconductance amplifier and one would then have a transconductance amplifier using J-fets for the power transistors. Page 3, 2nd paragraph. I believe this would be the way to go if a fellow diy'er wanted a transconductance amplifier. http://www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_zv9.pdf The Zen 9 and the Firstwatt F3 are virtually the same amplifier. One was a project for the diy crowd and I assume Nelson like it so much he produced the F3 for a retail amplifier. I have the F3 myself in a proper case and it is an outstanding example of a SE SS amplifier. It is one of my favorites. My limited understanding of the F1 being a transconductance amplifier is that the speaker voice coil itself becomes part of the amplifier. This is just a simple layman's statement. In reference to ground inside the amplifier you have plus 13.8V on the positive speaker output and a negative 13.8V on the negative speaker output. The voltages have to cancel each other out or you will have too much offset and blow your speaker voice coils. The internal mosfets have to be matched really close to achieve less than 50mv of DC offset between the 2 speaker outputs. I found this out the hard way. I did not blow any speakers but I did have to remove some mosfets and replace them with better matched pairs. This amplifier is also extremely sensitive to ground loops and hum as well but it is not that big a hurdle for a diy'er. If I ever go down the road of a full range speaker I might consider investigating and building a transconductance amplifier for myself but I do not see that happening anytime in the near future. I love the sound of my modified LaScala's too much. I have not mentioned the member I stuffed the boards for and I am going to let him review the sound and what he thinks about having a transconductance amplifier to drive the top end of his Jubilees if he chooses to. He has many Class A amps to compare the sound to. The service manual for this amplifier is available on the Firstwatt site with detailed analysis of the circuit and schematics of the circuit and PS needed for anyone interested.
  9. I must eat crow. Chris A is correct in that a transconductance amplifier is a different beast. After our lively discussion I did some research and learned a lot more about what a transconductance amplifier is. Not for most though. only full range speaker owners or those biamping a 2 way system using a driver. I recently finished stuffing some Firstwatt F1 boards for a fellow member who Chris A has helped with his active crossover setup that took an interest in a transconductance amplifier. I tested the boards in my designated testing wood framed chassis I built for this purpose alone. I cannot give an impression of the sound because I only tested the circuit on speakers with passive crossovers which Nelson Pass said is not what this amplifier is designed for. The mids and vocals did sound good on a pair of test speakers I use. It would not be fair to the circuit to test and listen on my main speakers. I did not measure correctly for the big caps hanging by wires. They are 1uf film caps that are going to be replaced by the owner of the boards later. Excellent caps but way to big to fit correctly. If I am wrong I like to be man enough to admit it. Sorry Chris A.
  10. If it's not broke why fix it. Just an old saying. The PS caps are the ones that probably need replacing and if you want to, replace the other electrolytic caps on the boards. Nichicon is a good brand. Mouser or digikey. Probably best to leave the op amps alone. With some numbers they may be able to be changed out. As far as changing out the caps in the audio path you will need a schematic to do so. Another old electronic technician saying is working without a schematic is like working in the dark. If I were you I would just change out the PS caps. Check and be sure what you buy fits the same spot. Equal capacitance or larger will be fine. Remove one of the PS caps and give size in mm and I may offer suggestions. Mouser or digikey with so many options can get confusing.
  11. After trying over 30 different combinations of Xovers which included most of the ones described on this forum I settled on this one as the best for me with my speakers in my room. I am using an Altec 501 horn with the stock K55M driver and a baby cheek tweeter horn with the Selenium D220 for its driver. I added the resistors I think I used for my attenuation of the mids. I may have attenuated 8 db but the values are not hard to figure using this calculator. https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/DriverAttenuationLPadCircuit/ Same with the tweeter, the attenuation one would use would depend on the efficiency of the driver. If the driver is rated for 108 db one would want to bring it down to some near 101 db with this crossover using the chart above. Many may choose to just attenuate the mid 6db and throw in an L-pad to adjust to taste. I chose to purchase many different 10 watt resistors and just use resistors. The range of an L-pad is not enough to attenuate more than 5 or 6 db alone. The R2 in parallel with the driver using ohms law will equal 7.14 ohms. R2 is the resistor that does the attenuation and you add 7.14 ohms to it's value of 8.85 ohms and you have 15.99 ohms the nominal value of the driver where the Xover will not be changed. Not that complicated. You can increase the wattage of R1 if you want but I can assure everyone 10 watt will be sufficient with our speakers. I am using some Russian paper in oil caps purchased off of Ebay but I have tried many different brands of capacitors as well. Motor run caps in my opinion work just as well. I would not concern myself with trying to purchase caps at precisely the values listed. Anywhere reasonably close will be good enough because a 1st order crossover depends on acoustic xover almost as much as electronic. I think I purchased C1 as 4 ohms and C2 as 20 ohms. I have been using this Xover for a couple of years, no shout, no ear piercing highs. Just lovely sounding with all my many amplifiers which has now grown to over 20.
  12. I'll see if I can work it up for you since I finally got my scanner working correctly probably next week. I spent months playing with all different variants of X-overs before settling of a simple 1st order one using resistors for attenuation. I know of no company making speakers that use autotransformers anymore including Klipsch. In the day of very low output amplifiers PWK thought them to be an advantage but low power amplifiers are certainly not a problem anymore.
  13. Ditch the autotransformer and go with a simple 1st order Xover and it will only get better.