Jim

I just picked up a Denon DL-103 modded with the Paradox Pulse body potted with epoxy. Only used it for about 10 hours or so, but it sounds very nice. I bought it used from the owner of Paradox as he had the cart retipped with a new cantilever and diamond. I'm surprised how nice it sounds. I hooked it up to my JVC JL-F45 and had to put on lead tape on the counterweight as the cart with the body is 15.2 grams. Tracking it at 2.4 grams.Surprised how good a conical tip sounds compared to other conical tips I've heard.

Made a move into MC carts and picked up an Ortofon MC20 MKII, a modded out Denon DL-103 in a Paradox Pulse body potted out with epoxy, and 2 SUTS to try out on my tables. . I still have a modded naked Ortofon MC15 coming with the cactus cantilever and shibata tip.

Just got it in today.Mounted it to my JVC table as the arm can handle it with a little extra weight. Put on about 18 inches of lead tape around the counterweight. I also am using a newly built adjustable SUT to try it out as well. So far it's not a bad cartridge at all. I also tried it on the Ortofon T-20 SUT, and will be trying it out on a Schiit Mani.

I have mine coming with the aluminum potted gold body. I'm looking for a newer phono pre or SUT that's adjustable for the loading of it as well.

I'd actually like to see something like that tarnish over time.I think it would look really nice.

I think I saw this pic on Facebook,or maybe vinylengine. The one below with the wooden headshell.

Schu, The reason I'm trying the 103 instead is I was told it's more forgiving/versatile when it comes to SUT or MC phono pre amps. I still don't have a great SUT or MC pre yet. Right now I have the Ortofon T-20 that I use on the Ortofon MC20 MKII, and a Schiit Mani MM/MC. I've been playing around more with tables and carts the past few months and am leaning more towards investing in a better phono pre and table within the next 6 months or so. My plan on this 103 is to try the wooden case,then try the Paradox Aluminum casing with the epoxy pot on it. Then upgrading the cantilever and tip afterwards. All in all,costs for the wooden body,cartridge,and the upgrades it already is coming with on the cantilever and better tip, will run me $190.00 complete.If I do the Paradox,it's another $169.00.So it's only going to run me about $350.00 total. Paradox also has a set up complete with the ruby/line trace or 2 other upgraded cantilever tip set ups for $599.00.They get the modded cantilever and tips done through Soundsmith and one other guy in Oregon.

I will be trying it both ways as well. My tables now are a Hitachi HT-500 and a JVC JL-F45, so they have two different arm styles.

I saw this video as well. So there was no difference for you with it?

wish they could be shipped to NJ,I'd sell a kid. The bad one.

Has anyone done the modification to this cartridge? I am getting a modified cartridge with a new aluminum cantilever and line trace tip and see where people are cutting off the casing to the cartridge and putting it in a wooden casing. Soundsmith does it as well as a few others out there. There's a DIY wood case that you can mod by yourself with directions on how to do it,so I'm contemplating doing it. I got the cartridge for $112.00 + $18.00 shipping, and the casing runs $79-99, so I figure it can't hurt to try it.

Deadpool is a comic book character. I'm not a comic fan myself, but have been into the movies made abut them. This one is actually funny as hell and worth the watch. He's been aligned with the Avengers. You won't be disappointed with the movie. I laughed almost the whole movie from start to finish. Very raw with the humor.

Matt, those black are gorgeous. Excellent job on them. I like them better than the lighter wood. Both sets are beautiful.

That's great parenting there. I was taught the same thing by my parents. It doesn't get any more intimate than that. On a funny note, his spoof on SNL was funny when he was playing football with kids.

Because some people just can't follow the rules. So why are those people allowed to hang around? If you can't read/understand the rules before you post or after you've been warned, then they should be given a long timeout. If it happens again, delete/block their account and all their posts. And if you look at most of these posts and locked threads, it's almost always the same group of 5-10 people who like to "stir the pot" or post a "before it's locked" comment... Just send them on their way (permanently). We've already had this discussion several times, and the powers that be have decided there is nothing of the sort like this happening. The problem is that the people who have stated it more than a few times have been excommunicated from here, and not the ones who've made the snide remarks before the thread was locked. This is one of the reasons I have pulled back myself on posting or commenting. My opinion is that if someone posts a link or website and it doesn't knock anyone else or their competition it should be allowed,especially if they are helping the overall forum. But when it attacks someone or their business it should be squashed and that person banned. But that doesn't happen as the same people who attack are still here,while the others have left,either of their own accord or by "management". I also agree the few complainers are the ones that have things taken away from the forum, I say they should have the balls to put it out there for all to see. If not they should either shut the F-up, or leave the forum. You don't like a post or website, move on to the next post. You don't like a person's signature or quote,don't read it again after the first read. You don't like a person's name or avatar, don't focus on it. For a bunch of adults on here we all act like high school kids when we don't get our way. I don't agree with how some people on here do things, and I know there are people who don't agree with me, but it's their right to be the way they are. I just choose to ignore their posts or comments,or scroll past them when reading a thread.It's that simple.I don't send emails to mods or corporate or threaten taking legal action with corporate. I just move on or stay off the forum for awhile.

I do both, and I take pictures of products received as well as shipped. I even mark them for my protection. I've had 2 people try to scam me when I was a seller, and when I showed some of the pics they backed off. Same on the buying side. I take pictures of the serial numbers as well for my protection. Ebay does suck when selling, but I usually get better prices on my sales through them.

BUMP, Also lowering to $130.00

I always wanted to do that, the DNA test. Did you have anything that was surprising? American Indian, I am not sure what else they can tell. What can they tell? Germanic, anglo, saxon, West Africa, asian? Saw this article that says some results have to be taken with a grain of salt. https://www.theguardian.com/science/blog/2013/feb/25/viking-ancestors-astrology First let me say, that Ancestry doesn't state I am of Viking Heritage. That is my own statement more in a generalizing way as I have Norway and Sweden accounting for 14% of my DNA makeup (that region). The testing did give me a bunch of surprises though. My mother's side has said we are German, Dutch,Irish and my testing also shows those "regions".It doesn't specify a direct amount of German or Dutch, but "Eastern European" which is mixed with France and a few other countries, and does give me a 33% makeup from the UK, which then expands some into France within their "circle". Ancestry gives a really good explanation on how they do the testing and how the results are tallied on them. They also state that you can be related to someone and not share DNA,and vice versa. The test runs $99.00, so it's not like it's a waste of money. I have my brother and sister doing it as well, as I don't know who my real father is, and am using them to see where the DNA breakup is. The testing today is a lot different from what it was even a year ago. Now it gives both parents in the makeup, where the past tests were more specific with paternal and maternal lines. I can say with my test with the matches it gives you as potential relatives that 326 people were matched to me. I have contacted 3 of them so far, and all 3 are 2nd cousins with us sharing the same great grandparents. Their grandparents wound up being a great aunt to me,and all 4 of us didn't know each other or even about each other.So for my instance so far, it seems to be accurate. The test results overall won't give you the path results your ancestors took like the testing being done at NATGEO, but they give you your "makeup". I do plan on doing the NATGEO one and potentially one other from 23andme. This way I can see if the 2 are comparable or not.

I have a turntable cover that needs to have scratches removed from it and I am looking for pointers on doing it. They aren't deep,but the cover is almost "frosted" now due to the years. I purchased the table used of course and would like to salvage the cover if possible. There may be one slight scratch that needs a little help, but overall,I think it should be able to get refinished.

I don't believe that's correct. If you have a card and don't use it, it does nothing for you. If you're card is active and your payments are on time (full or partial payment) your credit score will go up. I've been doing that for years and my score reflects it. There is actually truth to both responses. From a mortgage brokers standpoint, if you don't use the card, it goes as a negative for your credit score as it neither goes up nor down, and companies will actually bump your credit sometimes, or even close the account which is negative,and if you pay the balance off fully it won't give you the jump in score you would think you should get. It shows as 1 more thing that you have "credit" for,and if not used doesn't bump the scores as you are using less overall. Your score increases the most when you let the companies make a little money on you from an interest standpoint, and also your credit line being more than "average". As it will then show more credit is being used when compared to your income and the payment history. The more cards you have with average or below average lines, is a negative, while the less cards with more credit lines are positive. The more you owe within a certain % of the allowable credit amounts the more your score rises. Once you go over that threshold even though you're not over limits and on time, the less the score rises. If you are under a certain % of the amount allowable, the score also doesn't climb as much,and can actually drop in certain instances.

It's funny how you have to jump through hoops to pay bills through a phone system, but they will let you open accounts and even help you make up a name if needed (Of course I'm embellishing the name making up part). I've had a harder time paying through a person on the phone to the point I've yelled at them asking why would I call in to make a payment on an account I don't have, or for another person? There is no common sense anymore,especially with people in other countries set up to help us.

A little off topic,but they just found a 2nd ship or something along that lines showing they were in North America before we initially thought they were. I also found out recently in my Ancestry DNA test,I have 14% "Viking" heritage. Not that anyone cares, but I was surprised.

The Bronze and Black are close with the Black edging it out in the upper high end and is slightly more open IMO. Same with the OM series.OM30 and OM40. The OM series is better for LM arms and the 2M better on medium and up.

On the VMS, try the Jico stylus.It has a nicer sound to me than the original. I am also getting one of the 2 done with a line trace tip.I am also contemplating the ruby cantilever with line trace. I had the Shure V15 III with the original high track and SAS replacement stylus, and felt it was too subdued for my tastes. Nice cartridge to me, but not enough on the low end or high end.

I know on my end,I like using an external phono pre.I went through my receiver, but it sounds better IMO with the external one. You can get a phono pre with both as I have a MC/MM one and it has an adjustable gain as well as a 20/100 gain button. Now if you had a nice Scotts or Fisher, that may be a different story. I'd definitely try out a few of the carts with shibata tips, whether through Jico or not.