parlophone1

Just intetested, how would you compare LS50s with what you have now? What amp did you use on LS50s? How much power?

What does the letter "J" stands for on the iscriptions on capacitors? Just curious.

Most of them what I heard were a bit bright. Paired well with more mellow British speakers.

The connections are clean, checked 😀. However, that does make a slight positive change in midrange presentation in my RF42s. I know these are not the same speakers, but it does not hurt to try. Also, if Dave Ritchie's data are true the front parts if the speakers could be raised up a bit to fire more up. That should lower the acoustical gap in freq response where tweeter and woofer meet. If true, that would confirm Ritchies data.

I am looking to this and wonder if any forum members now of alternative drivers comparable to Kappa C that are more efficient and made in EU? May be from B&C, Faital or others? I am also interested. Prices of imported US products go way high in the EU, enough to kill DIY projects.

Your first post is comming just in the right time and on a hot subject 😀😀. Wellcome to the forum.

Also, try to connect speaker cables to upper pair of connectors on the back of the speakers. That might change sound to your liking. If you loose some bass just move the speakers closer to the walls.

I would suggest experimenting with positioning of the speakers in the room. Try to place them at equal distances from adjacent walls, as equally as you can get. Then experiment with toeing in or out. Keep the space between the speakers empty if you can. Then try to tame the sound reflections near the front of the speakers, you can try something simple as a shirt on a hanger and see if it helps. Also carpet in front of the speaker could help.

Is that a stirofoam acoustic absorbers or something else? Anyway, a very nice looking room.

Zero if I can get by. Other vise a pill for alerghia only. Simethimes I get a hard headache and then a pill for that. In any other case a glass of wine is ok, or a home brewed schnapss.

Everything what said above. 😁 I have been using as pure coper wire as I could find in my 2-way listening rig. To this point, I have Knukonzeptz thicker wire as I could get. And they run fine. On my other system I run VanDenHull cheepest cabel I could buy locally. It is just fine. If I could advice anything beside that, it would be to experiment with your speakers placement and soundproofing of your listening room. Those things might surprise you more tha speaker wires. Just my 2 cents.

Hy there. I will try to answer your question about K69A driver, although I do not have direct and personal experience with it. It should support 2-way operation as you mentioned, and it should be enough to serve as a starting point doing that. I have recently been in a position to almost buy a second hand K-402 horn with that driver but did not manage to get them. If you find that K69A does not do it for you, then upgrade to a better driver later.

I would pick a pair for my self If I were in the US. Only customs duties and VAT cost more than double the asking price. And then there is shipping. I hope someone sees the opportunity here.

I am glad all of you had a great time and at the same time learned new stuff from the Chief. I was also awaiting comments about Cornwall IV from you guys that had a chance to listen them, especially in comparison to other heritage speakers. Regret that I could never attend the class.

DuckDuckGo app finally crashed on my smartphone. It lasted only a few months. It is annoying that one app crashes after short use. And I was accustomed to it. That is exactly one of the reasons why smartphones are not doing it for me. I want something dependable, at least for a year or two. Crash in a couple of months is just a no-no in my terms. It is a proof of incompetence from the side of developer. Still hate smartphones, and as long as I go further, there is nothing to prove me wrong in that. Just a note to that, my Nikon F2 is still working, after 40 years as of it's first day of use.

It seems that crisp highs are characteristic to the RF line of speakers. Also, in most music these do not sound natural.

That's exactly what I had in mind when writing about my friend's experiences with modern auto transmissions. Glad to see your opinion.

Much more cars today are automatic transmissions. Especially in a more expensive segment. I only had manuals and still drive a manual stick. I am used to them and never drove an automatic. And yes, manuals are in most cases less problematic and easier to maintain. But it is the feeling. There is just some magic in a smooth manual gear changer and more if it is short shifter. Modern auto transmissions are very good, at least that's what I heard from friends that drive these. But still I am sure I will miss manual in the future.

I was late in the Klipschforum when Amy was still here, but I sure miss her posts and photos. Stay well Amy...

The Boss...Born in the USA ... just playing a lot of good memories rolling.

I would appreciate if someone could direct me how to put up an active 2-way system that includes turntable. I am aware of AVR receiver which could provide for a preamp section. However, recently I had the opportunity to get my hands on Crown SL2 preamp, which to my knowledge would be suitable to provide for an active two-way system that would include a turntable preamp. What would be used as a preamp in this configuration? In fact, to my opinion it would be very useful to do instructions on how to assemble: 1. An all digital system, 2. A system that include an analog component(s). Partly, the reason for posting this question lies in the fact that I do not want to part with my LPs as a source of music. I am sentimentally attached to it. Thanks.

I do prefer the speakers (or any other thing produced) come from the country of engineers that have first laid hands on them. Period. Soundwise, I was not thrilled by the sound signature of Reference line of Klipsch. Haven't heard the RF7III, but I doubt that my opinion would change much. That said, I would love to get my hands on ChiefBonehead's work.

Have not tried Nagaoka , so I can not tell. I chose cart based on specifications of my tonearm. Was pretty limited because there is no way a I could adjust VTA on Philips 212 tonearm. What I had in my hands were the compliance and dimensions of the cart (here I just roughly followed the measurement of the cartridge on vertical axis, since there is no way to adjust the VTA on the TT). Ortofon 2M carts did just fine in that regard. Playing with available parameters did the rest. Old Philips is playing ok. Of course, having a good MM preamp is a must, but I do not have to tell you that.

Yes, K402s are hard to find without the drivers.

For 1/3 of a price I would not think twice.😉