catman0122

Here's another site for FLAC purchase/downloads: https://us.7digital.com/

Can anyone advise if this would apply to the UG Jube bass bin if powered with 8 ohm amp?

Upper Ear, Las Vegas NV. around 1988 or 1989. Heard the entire Heritage line-up, from the mighty K-horn on down to the original Forte's. I was hooked. Through the help of a friend, I managed to pick-up a pair of Forte's. The store had an awesome program and within a year, I traded-up and exchanged my Forte's for a Chorus II. Since then, I've bought and still own three LS1s and currently trying to dial in a pair of Jubes. While currently working abroad, I have three cherry Heresy IIIs to try and satisfy that itch while I'm away from home.

Comparing costs on their respective websites (2-channel amps), for about $120 more you can get a Nord Acoustics, Hypex NCore amp shipped. Rated 75 watts per channel at 8 ohms. Yeah, somebody buy these, compare and let us know...please. 😀 https://www.nordacoustics.co.uk/product-page/nord-one-mp-nc122-125w-stereo-power-amp-in-silver

I once auditioned a used Onkyo Grand Integra M-508 in the mid 90s with my La Scalas. It was absolutely harsh. Mated very well however with Denon's POA-4400 mono-blocks.

And then there's this.

These are available at http://www.usspeaker.com. The web page shows no longer available but they do have them in stock in 8 & 16 ohm versions. Contact Al at service@usspeaker.com if interested.

FYI, Just passing on info, I'm not affiliated with seller. These are available at http://www.usspeaker.com. The web page shows no longer available but they do have them in stock in 8 & 16 ohm versions. Contact Al at service@usspeaker.com if interested.

Projectorcentral.com has a huge data base on PJs and with the use of their calculator, should help you pin down what you need. http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-Home_Cinema_5040UB-projection-calculator-pro.htm

I recommend reaching out to Steve Herrala from this site http://www.soundvideo.com/author/steve-herrala/ . He's one of the largest if not the largest dealer for Marantz. I got an incredible deal from him on a brand new 8802A back in 2016. If I'm not mistaken, he does trade-ins so he may have used stuff as well. Anyway, being the largest dealer gives him ability to provide unique deals. Also has a wealth of info on Marantz. He should be able to help you pin down the right model for your needs at the right price. He's also a regular at AVSforum and goes by SteveH. Good luck! Update: Looks like I missed the part where you already picked up your loot. Well done! Well, advise for anyone else who may be looking into Marantz anyway.

Just curious, what do you guys think of these other D class techs discussed here? http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=148188.0

Not dipole surround, but you'll be Atmos (object-based surround tech) ready as direct radiating speakers are recommended by Dolby.

The MiniDSP should give you flexibility in sub location in regards to the two being treated as one. With your current setup, you're limited to co-locating them, or having to be equidistant to your listening position. The MiniDSP can time align the two freeing them from the aforementioned restrictions, and give you more control over room response of the three subs. I'm not sure however if the BFD is capable of the same thing. I have a MiniDSP and it was fairly simple to set up.

Here's what the manual says on page 4: Hook-up (see fig. 1). There are a variety of ways to configure your new sub. Usually, a simple mono, shielded 75 Ohm A/V RCA type cable is used to take the subwoofer output of your DD/DTS surround sound receiver and feed the low-level input of the sub's amp. There is no need to "split" the signal going to the sub (c.). You can feed either one of the two amp inputs, it doesn't matter, right or left. The receivers you're looking at with two sub outs (if mono, as in not L & R) are designed to feed two separate subs. Depending on make and model, the receiver is either implementing an internal splitter of the same signal, or is actually independent of each other which can be processed separately for room correction. SV oofers

Just an FYI, I think these would qualify as an updated B4 as the two companies have previous ties with personnel. https://www.powersoundaudio.com/products/S7201 This behemoth is 295 lbs and cost $3.9K

Hmmmm, wouldn't this be a perfect opportunity to break out updates? Chorus IIIs anyone?

I'll second that. I'm using D-Sonic and loving it!

Peerless Adjustable Component Shelf for AV EQ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00155PSXS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another option but a bit more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A358ELI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Home Ozone Generator Water and Air Purifier - eBon 500mg Ozone Deodorizer Sterilizer

PM sent.

Try this: 1. Disconnect left speaker at amp, fire up right speaker and see if overload circuit (OLC) is triggered. If not triggered, go to step 2. If triggered, go to step 1a. 2. Disconnect right speaker at amp, reconnect left speaker at amp. Fire up and check OLC. If not triggered, see ** below. If triggered, go to step 2a. 1a. Disconnect right speaker at amp, move it over and connect to left speaker terminal at amp. Fire up and check OLC. If triggered, follow step 1b. If not triggered, something's wrong with the right channel amp .To confirm, disconnect left amp channel, hook up your left channel speaker to the right channel on the amp. OLC should trigger. 1b. Swap speakers at speaker terminal ends and fire up. If triggered, follow step 1c. If not triggered, speaker is bad. 1c. Slave in new speaker wire, or swap speaker wires at both terminal ends (amp and speaker). Fire it up. If OLC is still triggered, see ** below. But if it's not triggered, the speaker wire is bad. 2a. Disconnect left speaker at amp, move it over and connect to right speaker terminal at amp. Fire up and check OLC. If triggered, follow step 2b. If not triggered, something's wrong with the left channel amp .To confirm, disconnect right amp channel, hook up your right channel speaker to the left channel on the amp. OLC should trigger. 2b. Swap speakers at speaker terminal ends and fire up. If triggered, follow step 2c. If not triggered, speaker is bad. 2c. Slave in new speaker wire, or swap speaker wires at both terminal ends (amp and speaker). Fire it up. If OLC is still triggered, see ** below. But if it's not triggered, the speaker wire is bad. ** Something's wrong with the amp. Hope this helps you isolate the issue.

I've had brand new speaker wire cause this.

Upper Ear, Las Vegas NV. Sometime between 1988 & 1989. They had the entire Heritage line from the Forte on up. It was simply amazing! Rich let me audition every single one of them starting at the bottom. Every model up was a definite level up! I threw all my test tracks at them and was astounded by how effortless they sounded with very tight bass. Rich let me push the SPLs...dang did they sound better as they got louder, with nary a hint of speaker breakup. I was hooked for life! No other speaker system since have come close to Klipsch Heritage dynamics!! I came away with the Forte. The Upper Ear was so awesome, they had/allowed trade ups (one model up) inside of a year. Not long after, Forte IIs came out, and Rich allowed me trade up to those even though they weren't exactly one model up. Traded all the way up to the Chorus IIs eventually. Never stopped dreaming of owning a Klipschorn since.

D-Sonic switched to Pascals. http://www.d-sonic.net/

Saw this browsing for stuff the other day. Probably a bit more than a little better...at least in price anyway. https://www.wyred4sound.com/products/digital-converters/blink