Fizik
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Posts posted by Fizik
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4 hours ago, wvu80 said:
Passive radiators went out of vogue for a long time in the DIY world in favor of ported designs which I assume are less expensive due to to savings on the relatively expensive PR's. It looks like you are ahead of your time in bringing the dual PR design back. Let us know how it sounds.
BTW the only thing I wondered about in your system was the DA SA 1000. I wasn't sure if that amp is big enough for your Umax 15 which I think is rated at 800 watts RMS. I don't know if the SA puts out the advertised power.
Where I'm coming from is the Inuke ratings are optimistic to say the least. As I said I have the Inuke 3000 w/dsp but it doesn't put out anything close to 3000 watts, maybe 2000 watts at most while bridged and 600 to each channel @ 4 Ohms. The DSP feature is handy although I don't know how to set it up properly. It is nice to use the computer to change the settings and listen to the results instantly in real time.
It sounds great when it's working, and definitely louder than the single 18" I had. Unfortunately, one of the passive radiators is defective and PE is going to exchange it.
I am curious about the SA1000's actual output as well. I would like to test it at some point soon and see what its really delivering. The driver is 800 rms and the amp is stated to be 1000rms. If it's not anywhere close, I may go with the original plan and pick up a Crown drivecore.
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27 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
I've shopped PE many times and I've never seen that kit, so I'm assuming it's something new. The single RSS390HO driver with a couple of passive radiators in a 3 cuft box looks like a similar design. I imagine the 18" version of that kit would perform admirably as well.
1It must be, it was not there when I was ordering stuff for this build less than two weeks ago. Must be coming into stock for the first time in about two weeks. Should be a pretty nice kit though for anyone who wants a smaller cabinet and a higher output.
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On 8/13/2018 at 9:28 AM, wvu80 said:
I've read the optimum amount of subs is three. There is a law of diminishing returns above that number. When running four, like you Carl I've also heard the optimum placement is in the center of all four walls.
I currently have in service a DIY sealed Dayton Audio Reference 15 w/500 watt Yung plate amp. I also have the sealed Ultimax 15 w/Inuke 3000 w/dsp and in process of building the second one after I decide in what configuration I like the first one. Each will have its own Inuke 3000 w/dsp.
I can run the Inuke 3000 w/dsp in dual 2 Ohm in which each of the dual voice coils gets its own amp. I can also run 4 Ohm at 800 watts, or 4 Ohm bridged for about 2000 watts which I would run with a limiter.
So far the only thing I've proved is I don't know how to set up the Inuke. The Reference 15 sounds better according to my ears but I am no authority on deep bass.
I do like the sound and look of the reference ho series as well. My previous 18 was a reference. During modelling the Ultimax just a much higher output compared to the 15" reference so I decided to give it a try.
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20 hours ago, babadono said:
how's about an 18" active and two 18" passives
I mean just fer fun
18"s would be fun. Would have barely fit on the sides, but would have been pretty cool.
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19 hours ago, babadono said:
Looks like his is baltic birch or some good ply. And walnut veneer to boot.
That's correct. I took some 13 ply 3/4" baltic birch and some 11 ply 1/2" and laminated them together. Then laminated on the walnut veneer which is about 1/4" and mdf backed. Works out to being just shy of 1 1/2" thick.
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19 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
Looks like maybe he bought THIS?
Nope, I built and designed my own, similar though.
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23 hours ago, wvu80 said:
The single looks like the Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohms Per Coil. That's the one with which I am experimenting. I'd like to try running the dual voice coils but that requires a very specific amp setup which supports the DVC.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um15-22-15-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-514
The outside pair looks like the Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm. That is the same as mine (High Output version) using the Yung SD 500 w/bass boost plate amp that I like best.https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss390ho-4-15-reference-ho-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-469
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Nice build on the box! Are you going to brace it? My box is .75" MDF with a 1.5" front baffle. I used the 3.0 cuft flat pack from DIYSoundgroup.
What amp will you be using, and if using an Inuke are you going with RCA connectors or Speakon at the sub? The Inuke only supports Speakon output connectors.
I had an iNuke on a previous build and did not like it, had a lot of trouble getting the signal strength bumped up from to something the pro amp wanted. I like the Dayton SA1000 and the crown amps better. Not a lot of room left for bracing, 3 of the sides are taken up mostly by the drivers. The entire box is 1.5" thick though so that helps quite a bit. I'll be using the SA1000 on this one.
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Time for a new DIY build, My old 18" box was just a bit too big for my new space, so I decided to sell it and do a new build. This should have a higher output in a smaller box (according to the speaker design programs anyways). I'll be using the Dayton SA1000. It worked well on my last build and I found a good price on an open box parts express had. Drivers used are the 15" ultimax and two of the 15" passive radiators.
New Drivers
Dry fitting the box
Sealed nice and tight with PL Premium
Can't have too many clamps
Some better final photos coming soon.
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It is with deep regret I am selling my complete Klipsch Ultra2 setup. It hasn't been used in a couple years due to not having enough space for everything. I recently moved again and still don't have space so its time to let it go. This system was roughly 13k new. All the speakers are in excellent condition, though a couple of the larger ones have some scratches on the bottoms of the cabinets from being moved around. Everything is fully functional and sounds amazing.Would like to sell as a complete set, but may consider selling separately if there is enough interest in each set. Actual photos coming soon.SoldIncludes:
- KL-650-THX LCRs (3)
- KL-525-THX LCRs (2)
- KS-525-THX surrounds (2)
- KW-120-THX subwoofers (2)
- KA-1000-THX subwoofer amplifier
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Not affiliated but a great deal. Happy to inspect for someone if need be.
https://boise.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-klf-30-tower-speakers/6262743525.html
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I'd be interested in Lie to Me and the Lone Ranger if they're still available. I'll send PM as well.
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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:
Looks like Boise ID.
You'd be correct.
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Selling my RSW-12. It is in excellent condition overall with only a few minor wear spots on the box. No dents or dings in the drivers or cabinet. The grill is in great shape but is missing one of the 4 pegs, the other three hold it on just fine.
The amplifier was repaired by Edwards electronics in August, so you'll have peace of mind for many years to come. I have only put about 10 hours on it since it was repaired. Since I'm not really using it I decided it was time for someone else to enjoy.
One of the most musical subwoofers you can buy and digs down great for movies.
The grill will ship separately from the subwoofer to avoid damage.Asking $640 plus shipping.
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On 4/10/2017 at 1:22 PM, jjptkd said:
Wow, beautiful work! I really like that Walnut veneer. I bet they sound better than the RF-7 II's too, I recently had a pair of the RF-7 II's and they sounded ok but lacked the clarity of the 3-way Klipsch's. Congrats on a job well done!
Thanks!
I can't speak for the second gen RF-7 as I've never heard them in person, but they do sound quite a bit better than the first generation 7's
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3 hours ago, jjptkd said:
Sold already.. I wonder where one would come up with suitable woofers for these cabinets?
I had the 4 woofers available too. Guy in Texas bought them and the cabinets.
This is what I did with the rest of the parts: Link
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15 minutes ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:
the shipping hurts
Yea, there big and heavy so not much I can do about that. If a forum member wanted them I'd knock the price down a little however.
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1 hour ago, pzannucci said:
How do you rate the RF7 woofers to the KLF20?
You said they are the same size so they could fit in the same recesses?
I've been debating on moving from the KLF20 to the RF7 woofers in my home built's but didn't want to do a bunch of retro fit. The crossover work might be a little more painful.
Thanks,
The KLF-20 woofer really is a great driver. I'm sure there a slight acoustic differences (different materials, etc), but not drastic enough for me to notice. The driver switch for me was mainly for cosmetics. The tweeter and crossover upgrade were a much more noticeable difference for me.
Also they did fit into the recess, the screw holes were just a bit further out on the rf-7 driver.
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If Klipsch had made a three way RF-7 with a limited edition Peruvian walnut veneer, they might have looked something like these.
I had previously done a few upgrade to my KLF-20's, the titanium tweeter and upgraded crossover from Bob Crites. They really helped improve the sound. The one thing I still missed was the copper drivers my previous RF-5's had. So I found a set of 4 RF-7ii drivers and started a project. My cabinets weren't bad or failing like some of klf speakers can have, but decided to rebuild them anyways. I kept the width and depth the same and increased the height closer to the rf-7ii. I left the ports on the rear the same, this dropped the factory tuning frequency by only 3 hertz or so due to the increased volume inside the cabinet. I've seen some people change the tuning closer to 30 hz but since the speakers are usually crossed over at 70-80hz it was easier to just reuse the stock klf-20 ports.
The cabinets are made from a combination of Baltic birch plywood and Peruvian walnut. The walnut and plywood were bonded before being cut into the panels for the new cabinets since the walnut is not a thin veneer. No dyes or stains were used on the walnut, just a tung oil based finish. In the first photo I was testing the fitment to see if i could use the dimension from the stock cabinets. The drivers were fortunately the same size which made things a little easier. The only different really was where the screw holes are.
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9 hours ago, ACV92 said:
Fizik - I'll be heading to Boise in a couple of weeks. Are you up for a demo? I usually stay in Nampa. If not, that's fine. The Dayton unit you recommended does look like it would be a little less involved than a DSP. Unless I'm looking at this incorrectly. I'll have to do some more research.
I'll Pm you about a demo.
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21 minutes ago, jason str said:
Don't overlook the Dayton HO series drivers, works good in small sealed boxes and i would prefer these personally with a music only system but not sure exactly what you planned on using this for.
I agree with this also. It is an excellent sub line. I have it in the 18" and its fantastic for both music and movies. If you're leaning towards music I would consider it over the ultimax, the ultimax is a great sub as well, the HO line is just slightly more musical. I have mine paired with the Dayton Audio SA1000, and highly recommend the amplifier. It's easier to connect in a home system, less adapters etc. Also has plenty of power if you decided to upgrade to a larger subwoofer down the line.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable--300-811
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Still available, small price drop etc,
New DIY Sub Build Triple 15's
in Subwoofers
Posted
Why yes I would like two of these, how'd you know haha.