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ATLDiver

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  1. Rob, No I'm not but I moved my gear around this weekend and after hooking everything up I just got to thinking maybe I was missing out on something. I am considering upgrading to dedicated sub cables of better quality but I was wondering if I'd *really* tell a difference with the dedicated cables.
  2. All, I've searched the forums for the following information and came up short even though my question is simple enough, (maybe even a little dumb.) I have two RP3 towers and rigged up to my H/T but I'm not sure my subs are configured correctly. I have standard good quality 12ga wire connected into the top posts of each tower; each post (upper/lower) has the gold-plated bridge supplied by Klipsch. I'm using a Monster audio inter-connect cable from the back of my AVR to my right speaker's LFE-In and another Monster inter-connect from that same speaker's LFE-Out to the LFR-In on the left speaker. My question is should I bring the AVR's lead into the Line-In on one speaker and use a dedicated Subwoofer cable to connect the two speakers?
  3. Ouch....$250-$350 for a replacement amp? I better guard mine with an iron fist...... In a related subject why wouldn't the built-in fuse catch a voltage spike that would damage the speaker? Is it possible the wiring used could be a problem? He's using cheap lamp-cord wire with soldered ends where I'm using high-quality 12ga wire with crimped Banana plugs.
  4. DrWho, To answer, no it does not work when switched from auto to on hence why I still feel it's the amp inside. I did not try to switch out master/slave setup due to a few things but mainly I felt it wasn't necessary after testing input directly from the Sony into the LFE-In on the suspect tower. I took the second tower out of the equation all together so I didn't see a need to take the time and effort to physically move speakers due to the length of his cables, i.e. one's shorter than the other. Oh and another poster asked about the AVR setup, that I played with too and surprise the Sony didn't really allow to much control over the LFE channel. Even still no matter what setting I tried I couldn't get anything to come out of that sub
  5. Kieth, Just to clarify my above post...I do have the speaker wire connected into the top posts on the back of each tower and the bridge is in place on both tower. However, I must take issue with your info on the indicator light in front of the unit. On my system my towers are lit red when no impute is coming into them, i.e. my system is off. When I feed my system power and send signal to the speakers the green light comes on and I of course do notice the bass response. His *working* tower does just this when the tower in question stays red unless I flick it from the auto position to permanent on. As for the inter-connects, he's using a decent quality audio cable (Monster) connecting from the back of the Sony, (Subwoofer output) to the LFE-in on the suspect tower. Next he has another audio inter-connect cable from the LFE-out to the LFE-in on the other speaker. Again, I mimicked my setup to the "T" as I thought this was the optimum setup. When I say I mimicked my setup there is one little difference, my setup uses a bi-wire cable for each tower where my father-in-law's does not. From what I've read I highly doubt this would make any difference as I'm using the inter-connect cable to send the low-end signals straight from the receiver to the sub. I base all this on the fact that the one tower's sub is working fine by being the *slave* sub. I would have tried to setup the working tower as the master but the cables he had were not long enough. Hope that clears that up, have any other ideas?
  6. John...Thanks for the information, by patch cords I assume you mean to rig up a connection coming from a walkman into the speaker outputs? How bout patching a DVD player straight into the speaker? If it is the amp on the speaker I assume that's fairly easy to replace under Klipsch's warrantee?
  7. I'm having a problem with one of the powered subs on a set of RP3's that I believe is *blown.* First a little setup: My father-in-law has a full reference line surround setup all tied into a new Sony AVR, (STR-DE995.) I personally have the same setup for the exception of a older Harman/Kardon 520 AVR so for the most part I mimicked my setup for his but I'm not experiencing the problem he's having. The Problem: When I hooked up all the speakers to the back of his bran-new Sony I'm not getting anything out of one of the subs. I have the subs hooked up the correct way from what I understand; output from the amp to the LFE in on one tower, then LFE out on that tower to the LFE in on the opposite tower. I get bass response from the *slave* tower but nothing from the tower where I have the output coming from the amp. I next took just the interconnect cable from the amp going into the LFE in on the suspect tower and got nothing from either a sound field test or from music/video. I suspect a blown sub but the father-in-law doesn't know when this problem occurred. I originally setup his speakers up with, at the time, an older Sony AVR amp which served him for a couple of years until he wanted to upgrade. Anyone have any ideas or see a potential setup problem? As I said I have the exact setup minus the amp difference but my H/K has a similar sub output as his Sony. I thought it might have to do with the Sony's setup but like I said I ran the sub output directly into the suspect tower with nothing coming out. The other tower behaves normally with the green light engaging when it receives signal when set to automatic. The other towers amp light stays red even when its hooked directly into the AVRs sub output, when I set it from auto to auto the green light lights up but Im still not getting anything from the sub. Any advice would be helpful....
  8. Ok, not to start a flame war here between the two speaker wire camps I have a few questions about bi-wiring and with what type. First of all let me state I have a VERY modest audio system, as stated above I have a set of RP3's mated to a Harman/Kardon 510 AVR receiver. I've noticed since install my H/T stuff last year that periodically I would receive some feedback in my speakers, basically what sounded like a crackle of static. I wasn't too concerned but slowly I've been upgrading to better quality cables and doing away with the cables supplied by various equipment manufactures, in hopes to eliminate that issue. Recently I've decided to move my components around in my room and properly hide my rear surround RS-3's wires from view using wire channels. For this task I bought a bunch of bulk 12ga wire at Lowe's but noticed one side of the run doesn't appear to be pure copper, at the time I thought it might be nickel. Before I wired my rear's up I decided to make a bi-wire set for my RP-3's, when I connected them up I noticed two things. One, my subs would not detect signal and *turn-on* automatically. Second, it sounds like I've lost some of my high-end signal from some of my favorite music/movies I tried out after the switch. This could be my imagination but I don't think so, I now believe that cable had a high content of Aluminum. Ok, to my main questions now. One, Hopefully I didn't damage my speakers by using this Aluminum cable or by bi-wiring the set; thoughts? Two, has anyone tried DIY speaker cable based on CAT5e? If so, how does this sound? I have a ton of this stuff laying around so the cost to experiment is negligible. My final question is where can I buy say 100ft spool of the AR 12ga wire? I had bought some a couple years ago at Lowe's but it seems they've stopped carrying it, I'm not into Monster due to the rip-off they get away with. I know many of you would suggest buying some specialized *boutique* cables but frankly I can't justify the price per performance, for myself at least. I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions in advance....
  9. Don't forget the Harmon/Kardon reciver's...I have the AVR510 mated to my RP3's.
  10. No that was a typo...I meant I have RS-3's, I feel dumb now...
  11. Everyone, I'm going to move my surrounds from behind me to the sides of my room where they should be. I have a lofted wall on one side that's 10ft high so I want to use brackets to angle the speakers. My question is what kind of bracket's should I get?
  12. So you saying RCA connect cables to the RCA connections in back then leave the wireing like it is? I'm not sure I understand, bare with me I'm a hifi novice. Care to email me so we can talk more about it, you have my curosity peeked now. atl_diver27@hotmail.com
  13. Everyone, What advantage would biwiring my RP 3's afford me? I've done a little bit of reading on this but I'm not sure I understand the advantage. Currently I have 12ga Monster Cable wired into the + and - of each with the gold bridge installed on each speaker, essentially the factory hookup. I'm quite happy with the sound but I've recently talked with "audiophile" friends of mine that suggest biwiring, I know the RP's can handle that but I'm not sure the advantage is worth the possibility of blowing it out. Thoughts?
  14. Mike, I was leaning towards that however my fiancé' thought they would look dumb so I succumbed. Now armed with some sound advise I can override her. BTW, for now I only have a 5.1 reciever.
  15. Everyone, I recently purchased a set of new RS-3's to augement my H/T setup. My room isn't large (22' by 14') but it's a vaulted space going up two stories. I mounted the RS-3's on the back wall approximately 8' up on the wall. These speakers so far have really blown me away, just in a few hours I can tell that the "warmth" of sound is incredible. With that said I'm debating if I should mount them on the side walls on either side of the listener instead of behind. I have them mounted about 6" away from the joining wall and even though these are bipole I want to make sure I have the optimum setup. The guy at the local H/T store where I bought these said behind was find but I've always been told to the side is better. I'd like to have everyone's thoughts, thanks in advance. Sean
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