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MercedesBerater

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Posts posted by MercedesBerater

  1. Yes, try throwing a heavy blanket over the steamer trunk & see if that helps a little?

    And try this experiment to test your toe in preferences. This is what I did to figure out what I like. (It's easier for you to move around then keep fussing with the speakers)

    Sit in front of your steamer trunk (near field listening) And see how your imaging sounds and what your perceive for the high freq's you are trying to tame. Do you like this sound ? Has it improved dramatically? Then toe your speakers OUT and go back to your normal couch position and sit down... Listen again. Better?

    Did you dislike the sound? Then toe your speakers IN and go back to couch and listen again... Better?

  2. That's almost the amount of distance I have for my 7's.... Which move A LOT more air... You might try another few inches.

    It could take you 50-100 hour break in... And 25-50 to find your sweet spot.

    I still fidget with mine just to see what happens.

    For high frequency... Do you have a hard coffee table in between you & the speakers? That may be reflecting high freq's right at you.

    Do you have any photos of the room so we can all see what's going on in there??

  3. Welcome to the club.

    Before you write off the 280's... Try toe adjustments and see what that gives you.

    My 7ii's can be a bit bright if not toed correctly.

    Keep in mind too-- depending on what you're used to.. The horn design can be very efficient & revealing. Both can be huge pro's, And cons.

    If you have a crap recording... You'll have a crap reproduction .

    Maybe your old speakers were not as clear and the higher freq's were veiled and now you're hearing them truly for the first time??

    I'd still try toe adjustments..

    • Like 1
  4. -- if you want a good laugh.... I've obsessed over every other detail in the room just like this.

    I probably stared at the side walls for hours trying to guess where I wanted lights & columns... Then I picked the location of lights and columns. Now... Lights 4" off walls, or 8" off walls... Column 4" deep, 6" deep.. Hmm how wide? 10" 12" 14" 8"?

    What amount of curve to the front stage.. Flat sides with a center curve, while curve, whole flat? Etc etc...

    This project has been an experiment in what it'll take to drive myself insane.

    • Like 1
  5. I have a client that owns a recording studio and has all the really cool mic's amd measurement devices... He has offered to come measure my room for free.

    I just am trying to get a grasp on everything.. And waiting on carpet before I have him come over. I want to be prepared, and sound educated.

    And know what product to go with as soon as I have data.

  6. Followed up with AcousticalSolutions on their product compared to AcoustiMac.

    He said they use roxul & theirs performs much better - as almost all NRC ratings are computer models and not actually tested.

    I hope me sending the quote from AcoustiMac his way gets him to drop price considerably...

    From first email:

    You can send me the other quotes and I will see what I can do for you no problem. Just keep in mind that if you are going with a 2” thick fiberglass panel, you won’t get a better NRC. They all say “1.15, 1.30…etc” But what that means is 100% absorption of speech frequencies. Anything over “1” is just a result of lab testing of a 3D item when the lab computer can only test a 2D surface. It adds in the thickness of the panel to compensate. If you need clarification on this, just let me know.

    From second email:

    Basically what I was going to talk about is that we are using a higher quality product than AcoustiMac. They are using a Roxul fill which is a very inexpensive, and frankly, cheap alternative to Johns Mansville Whispertone Wallboard.

  7. I have considered a rear wall with diffusion and absorption that's much thicker than the remainder of the room... Say 6-8" thick... And then doing a big.. Say two 4x6' diffusers.. Made up of 2x2" blocks cut at random lengths from 1"-8" so the overall depth equals the thickness of the absorbers 8"

    And I think I'll be forgoing any ceiling treatments.. Hoping that the "live" ceiling will give a sense of height spaciousness

  8. 75% movies

    25% music

    When I do have music going it's not critical listening.. It's listening for enjoyment. Just kick up the feet, close eyes and enjoy.

    Eventually I'll get some bookshelf speakers upstairs for enjoying music around the fireplace... And then the theater will be 100% movies

  9. I've done the "THX clap test" in my room, no carpet, all drywall.

    I bet my decay times is OVER 3 seconds!!!

    I doubt I have the power required to build that kind of pressure to move the frames from the walls... Just paranoid since the guys that CAN move stuff made me wonder.

  10. Silly question... Because I don't think I have the power required to do such a thing.. But maybe as I haven't moved speakers into their final home yet.

    If these panels aren't secured to the wall... Let's say using a wire hanger style like MetroLake suggested-- is it possible that the panels will vibrate or bounce a little off the wall and cause noise? Should they be glued & impaled in a perfect world?

  11. I would presume you do a 'Marine Corps rack fold' Or 'hospital bed fold'

    Those do look nice...

    But Max2's company he used is 1/2 the cost of the Acoustical Solutions... They're sending a color swatch for me to compare to the color I really wanted.

    At 1/2 the cost... A little color difference I'm sure is juuust fine.

    • Like 2
  12. I could do much thicker on the front and rear walls... But would probably keep to 2" on side walls for appearances sake.

    What are thoughts on making the rear riser a broadband absorber.. That could be a 10foot x 13foot x 8" absorber! -- if enough pressure can get in through the perimeter vents. In addition to corner bass traps. Which are maybe 8-10" thick??

    • Like 1
  13. Any pictures of your work?

    There's a pic or two around here somewhere, I'll try to find something.

    Isn't there some merit to commercially available and measured panels?

    Not that I can tell in terms of performance. I don't think you're going to gain anything significant.

    Or should I really try and buy the fabric from that company for the exact color I want or try to source from a fabric store and attempt my own build? If DIY do you use rockwool or O.C703 or something more exotic?

    I like Knauf because the lower frequencies have slightly better absorption plus they don't use formaldehyde, their manufacturing process is a little better for the environment.

    Other than appearances / uniformity & time saved.

    So ceiling treatments... So far has a 50% vote

    And commercial panels... So far has a 50% vote

    :/

    Maybe I'll order ONE small panel and just see what's what.. And if I THINK I can match it pretty close in material & color & craftsmanship

    • Like 1
  14. Any pictures of your work?

    Isn't there some merit to commercially available and measured panels? Or should I really try and buy the fabric from that company for the exact color I want or try to source from a fabric store and attempt my own build? If DIY do you use rockwool or O.C703 or something more exotic?

    • Like 1
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