Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

67 Excellent

About karlson3

  • Rank
    Forum Veteran

Recent Profile Visitors

1753 profile views
  1. The L-pad should sound good enough and add some flexibility if the speaker is moved - - just mark its level position(s). The tweeter could be placed "back" in the plane of the midrange driver. If so then use felt or perhaps carpet on top of your 811 horn to reduce reflections. Here's an L-pad calculator https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/DriverAttenuationLPadCircuit/ say you wish to attenuate your 811 by 3dB - then enter the nominal impedance of your driver and the amount of attenuation (and a wattage - if interested) Then the calulator will show the series and parallel ("shunt") resistors plus the power the driver receives. For instance when 16 ohms and 3 dB attenuation are entered, the calculator shows the values below. One would use typically whatever 5% value is closest. With the adjustable pad you can dial the amount of attenation in by experiment then if wanting to make a fixed L-pad, measure the pad's series and parallel resistance with a multimeter and find which fixed resistors to purchase.
  2. how about putting a 16 ohm L-pad "before" your driver/horn combo? You could take an adjustable L-pad and find a setting which sounds / measures right to you then replace the series and shunt Rs with fixed resistors of decent quality. (811 and 511 make good midhorns)
  3. I'm going to take just a guess - that a number of "high end" tube amplifier products were/are the result of listening rather than following exact rules of the longest AC loadlines and best-positioned operating points per Radiotron manual vs tube characteristics and that perhaps ARC, and Quicksilver have done this practice and certainly Bruce Moore and Scott Frankland. (It would be good to have a scope to hunt down potential oscillation problems - my 8417/417A tube sure oscillated enough to block the signal) I once had a modified Dyna Stereo 70 which had probably been modified per Eisenson's "TU-BE OR NOT TU-BE" and for some reason it would LF "motorboat" on a box speaker - but would play on the resistive Magneplanars. Some designers seem not to be so fixated on things. Grommes designer Al Hart in a note to me seemed glad to see tubes dead and happy with an op amp RIAA stage with global feedback. Stu Hegeman in later years had a similar preamp. (I'm sure the HAPI is about forgotten vs his Citation I & IV tube units) I like to see those who are passionate and experiment (Jeff included) The Japanese "Ultra-Fi" movement several decades ago imo was a very good thing for those who love horn loudspeakers. Jeff could easily throw high H chokes on the chassis, series pass regulators, big caps - - but apparently has found something which works better for his* sense of how music should sound. (* people don't hear/perceive things the same) FWIW I've heard "a little" hum from commercial tube (and solid state) amps in my lifetime. Audio - like other hobbys, politics, religion, can bring out strong opinions. Maybe its best to use that phrase - "lets agree to disagree" .
  4. certainly impressive and the gorgeous case must aid in reducing sensitivity to microphonics. I've heard (and owned) a few preamps through the years including Bruce Moore stuff, Tube God's NB1, P-F, Theta, etc. and some homemade stuff. Although loop feedback isn't popular, it might be fun to do a Stu Hegeman tribute with cascade feedback pair driving passive RIAA per Citation I and IV, but throw out the 1000 contacts and superfluous stage stuff. I like the idea and sound (and idea) of an anode - follower with low gain vs cathode follower. My fingers/hands are numb these days and doubt if could solder for more than a few minutes. I've got a mu-follower RIAA preamp (lumped passive RIAA) w. stepped attenuator laying on the floor gathering dust. It needs some caps soldered and coin cell batteries for one stage's bias.
  5. I've had only 2 hr sleep so mighta botched something - here's power response of a Kappa12C in LS vs K33E and vs a JBL M151 guitar 15. I'd have to have a single segment expansion to get the directivity Do PWK's bifucated folds tend to be able to go higher for a given bulk horn than single path?
  6. for horns - Danley and his MEH provided one of the best leaps in SQ. For the capable DIYer and amplifier above flea power, that's one way to go. (is there a good and available substitute for the little MISCO sealed back mids ?)
  7. re: liquid rubber dip - that does sound like a better idea as rope putty eventually dries out - if there is a significant peak then that's good to LC(R) trap as seen the magnitude pretty high and peak that forms an interference source with the tweeter ( unless you like the sound - lol)
  8. I've never had LS (do have Khorns + H1) - seems to me the original with capacitors which flavor it best to one's taste (perhaps on the budget, KBG, MBGO or decent motor run poly battery biased) when fed with a good source (for me - no op amp in the DAC or preamp) would be about as good as it gets. FWIW I would want no particle board, and prefer stiffness from bracing rather than thick walls. K400 (and 700) seem to do better with rope putty than 511B. Also - if there happens to be a peak in the upper range of the midhorn/driver combo and there's no midrange lowpass L , it would not hurt to apply the old "p-filter" trap using RTA or repeated sweeps to properly center the LCR filter. K55v was a pretty good driver overall. Its discouraging to see new chunky compression drivers in the $100-$150 range but none to do the work and lower range needed in the classic Klipsch midrange horn setup. What the world needs is a great $100 phenolic 1 inch (and larger) format horn driver. (I remember when High Fidelity published their A447 review ) Here's that review:
  9. here's ~ a Mini - Punch sim with Delta Pro12 450 (and compared to LS/K33E) It probably would be better to seek a driver with higher Re if using with low/zero global feedback tube amps. Bet it can sound real good on vocals if everything else is matched up well. The second sim is the Mini Punch with back chamber sealed and set the same volume (~58 liters) as the stock La Scala. Sealed MP
  10. the DJK (RIP) vented La Scala mod if adding about 2 cubic foot to the back chamber and tuning to ~33Hz should look pretty much like the sim below. A final qts of ~0.31 for the woofer after inductor DCR and amplifier source impedance are factored would fit the 6th order reflex treatment closer.
  11. (I've got a Dixielander with mouse eaten 8 - it won't take a 10 plus the back chamber is vented) it takes good skill to do a Classic's throat (my hands are numb and couldn't do it when young) FWIW - a comparison between 0.83 scale Classic with Delta 12 Pro 450A and La Scala with K33E spec
  12. an 0.8 scale University Classic for a 12" driver would be about 19 inches deep
  13. FWIW - can't stand my Heresy I with grills on - nasty reflections and vague - muffled sound. With them off, mounted high on a wall, and driven by an inexpensive SE UL EL34 amp , the mids and highs are pretty good and never shrill (caps are 2uF KBG) - my only beef is the blend between the woofer and K700/K55V (a change in the lowpass might fix things?) Fritz Wunderlich (EMI lieder CD) sounds great - - Jimmy Martin sounds great. I'm a fan of PWK's exponential horns.
  14. not to highjack, but offhand, are there any currently made little cone drivers which will horn-load satisfactory (sensitivity and top end response) for Klipsch - type application using passive xover ?
  15. an 8/15 scale Klipschorn would be very cute - and pretty potent at ~128dB for 20v input down to 100Hz. A K700 could represent K400. Tighten the back chamber to 3 liters and add a series 200uF cap and it should go a bit lower at the expense of higher excursion in the 80Hz region. Further reduce the back chamber to 2.3 liters, use a 200uF series cap and 3mH 14R shunt and it will handle 28.3v input without exceeding 8pe21's 2.5mm xmax for around 130dB
  • Create New...