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Here's the family basement HT that I use mostly for 2-channel listening. My son also has his PS4 and gaming chair down here. I have a refurbished Chexx Hockey with the players painted as the current Blackhawks vs a team of Detroit Redwings all-stars (the plexiglass bubble does cause some early sound reflections, but it's a small price to pay.) Keen viewers will also note the black cat asleep in the been bag chair enjoying Diana Krall this morning. He's a big Bill Evans fan too .

Disconnect the speaker from the amp. Unhook the LF bin first, then spin the top hat around for easy access. Unscrew the wood screws around the perimeter and then use the terminals to slowly pull/tip the whole board outwards towards you. You'll see where the tweeter is connected to the crossover on the "label" side of the board via push-on terminals. Make a note of how they are connected before disconnecting them. Then, disconnect the midrange connections from the back of the squawker driver itself - making a note of positive/negative. Free up the LF wires and you can remove the whole board. Just take your time - can't hurt anything.

I have H3's in a different room, voiced similarly to your CW3's afaik, and the H3's midrange and highs are more forward than my stock LS2's. I can tell this both from listening and also the REW data measuring at 1M from the speakers shows this as well. So my initial thought is that the LS2's are a more laid back presentation than what you are used to, but your other comments about sounding like an ice cream truck make me think there is something more serious going on. The nutcrackers sitting on top of the LS2's can't be helping matters either :-)

Hmmm. I'm at a loss. Did you purchase them new?

How do they sound with Audyssey off? i.e. "Stereo direct" or whatever your receiver calls it? I have LS-2's but don't use Audyssey or any kind of room correction.

Apple Airport - $100. Might make more sense to use Apple stuff if you already have an iMac. I'm using this right now: iMac (iTunes) --> Airplay over Wifi --> Airport --> DAC --> AMP/receiver The DAC is optional - the Airport has a built-in DAC that's decent.

yes

Ok I'm back on the CT120 bandwagon in my La Scala 2's.

Agreed - faulty. I had to return my first pair due to a funky SPL imbalance between the two speakers. My second pair has been solid.

Understood - we want to see if the speakers are working at all with any input and remove the TT's and mixing board from the equation. (referring to a few posts back when he connected his laptop via USB and got nothing.)

If you are using a MAC and connect via USB, make sure you 1) select the USB input on the speakers (whitish light) and 2) you select the Klipsch USB as the output device in your sound settings.

You should be getting some sound out then. Can you try playing another source to see if the speakers are working? Connect the headphone jack on your phone or laptop directly to the speakers line-in? or maybe hit the usb button on the remote to get a flashing blue light on the speaker, then connect your laptop or phone via usb?

On the Klipsch remote, hit the phono button and a purple light should turn on the front of the right speaker. This indicates the phone/line input is selected. just making sure we have this basic step covered.

Is the input on the Klipsch set to purple?

You could try setting the TT's to line, then plug them into the line-inputs on the mixing board, and keep the master RCA cables going to the phono input (set to line) on the Klipsch.

So if you are going from the master on the mixing board to the phono on the Klipsch, you want to change it (the Klipsch) to line I believe.

If your TT's are connected to the mixing board, and then your MB is connect to the R-15PM via RCA cables, make sure the phono input is set to LINE. I do the same thing with my R-15PMs except instead of TT's, I have microphones into my MB. Works great. Another thing to try is playing something via bluetooth or directly connecting your laptop/iphone via headphone jack to the phono input (set to line) on the R-15PM.

I don't think we're getting the full picture from this article. If you are any good in IT and have relevant IT skills, especially in Silicon Valley, companies are banging down your door to hire you. There is a dearth of qualified IT employees in this country. The trick is, much like Moore's Law, you must learn something new every 18 months. That doesn't mean getting laid off in 2002, kicking back on unemployment, and then expecting to find a company looking to hire you for your skills "honed in the 1990s." Even the choicest prime beef spoils quickly outside of the refrigerator. He admits his skills are stale - that's good, at least he knows. And I can see getting laid off in 2002 and 2009 - tough times in IT for sure. But it's troubling he can't hold down a steady IT job this century - companies don't fire good skilled IT employees even in these times of outsourcing and The Cloud - good IT employees are somehow kept on-board. There's something else wrong here.

The CT-120 is a fine modern crystal clear tweeter for sure, but the crossover it's paired up with makes a huge difference in how it behaves. In the case of the AL-5 in my La Scala 2's, I found the CT-120 a little too hot above 8Khz and difficult to tame because it's SPL output steadily increases from 6Khz to 16Khz. I tried some open-cell foam in the throat of the CT-120 to knock down SPL by about 3db across the entire frequency range of the tweeter (green line), but this resulted in missing dynamics in the 5khz to 8khz range and still too sizzly highs above 8Khz compared to the K77-D (blue line). I guess I too am an old fart because I've been running the K77-D's now for the last two months or so.

that sounds awful. to paraphrase my old high school band director: "I could break wind through that saxophone and it would sound better." I'm an old-school antique guy, but I think I'll take the modern version in this case.

Start with the basics and make sure you have the speakers wired correctly, then double check the settings on your AVR to make sure it doesn't have the speakers set or room-eq'd incorrectly. Finally, hook up your laptop or phone via the headphone jack to the AVR in straight mode to see if it still sounds bad with the nvidia shield out of the picture.

This is a good read: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

Does your phone support Apt-X like the YBA-11?

With all the different wireless and portable speaker offerings from Klipsch these days, I don't see the need for permanently mounted outdoor speakers unless you're having a giant party or Rush is coming over to play in your backyard. I'm building an outdoor pergola / patio right now and plan on carrying my R-15PM's out there when I want music. Just throwing it out there for you.

IMHO, your receiver is fine with those Klipsch speakers and it contains very nice DACS. However, I think your weak link is the Bluetooth connection from your phone to your receiver. That YBA-10 dock uses BT 2.0 which probably isn't very good for sound quality because it can't feed the DACS inside the receiver a clean digital stream. The first test I would try is to get a headphone-to-RCA cable and directly connect your phone to the audio1 input on the receiver. See if it makes a difference. The downside is you will be using the DAC inside the phone, but on the plus side, you eliminate the BT connection. If this does make a difference, then I would look for ways to stream a non-lossy digital stream over WIFI directly to your receiver. If your phone is an iPhone, you can use Airplay to stream to an Airport, which will relay the digital stream over optical Toslink to the DACs in your receiver. The next step up would be to have the Airport relay the digital stream over optical Toslink to an external DAC, like a Schit BiFrost, then send the analog signal to the receiver. This is the setup I have with a BiFrost 4490. The BiFrost Multibit is the current model. First step is to eliminate BT and see if it makes a difference.