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adam2434

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Everything posted by adam2434

  1. I interpreted Moray's statement below to mean that the adhesive that was specifically designed for the melamine had the the issues. So, if the panels did not have melamine, seems like Klipsch would use standard their standard wood glue, which I would think would not have adhesion issues. Who knows though? This is ~25 years ago, so the story is probably difficult to reconstruct. I may run a series of bass test tones, maybe 20 to 200 Hz and see if I get any panel vibration. Thanks, Adam
  2. I found a few threads that talk about melamine on the KLF's being the cause of the loose baffle issue. Here is one of them: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/144757-issues-with-klf-20/ The first pic in the earlier post today shows that both the front and back baffles have a black interior surface in that speaker. I'm thinking that the black coating in that pic is the black melamine mentioned in the thread I linked above. If this is true, mine simply don't have the black melamine, so should not have the loose baffle issue...at least that's what I'm hoping. 🙂
  3. Thanks for the input. Regarding gluing the panels with removing them, do you mean getting some glue into the seam/joint that I marked in green in the photo a couple posts back? I did test pretty loud with some bass heavy music and could not hear any vibration. I will do more testing. However, is it known whether the melamine was used in all the KLF production runs? The reason I ask is because I found the first KLF-20 photo below on this forum, and it shows that the interior surfaces of the front and back baffles are black. Black melamine, I presume? The second photo is taken through the port on my KLF-20. The interior surface of the front baffle is a tan color. Maybe raw MDF? So, I'm wondering if some versions of the KLF's won't develop the loose baffle issues because they don't have the melamine. Or, do mine have a tan colored melamine maybe?
  4. Hi, I made a couple posts in the thread linked below, but maybe posting in this forum will be better. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/123955-klipsch-klf-20-loose-front-and-back-panels/ I recently picked up a pair of KLF-20 and I am curious if there are known production dates/versions that do not have the baffle separation issue due to lack of adhesion to the melamine surface, which I have been reading about. I saw a thread with someone fixing the issue on their speakers. In that thread, the photos showed that the inside surfaces of the front and back baffles were black. Looking through the ports on mine, the inside surface of the front baffles is a tan color, maybe raw MDF, not sure. Mine are medium oak, by the way, but I would not think that Klipsch would have different interior baffle colors for the different exterior veneer colors, right? This makes me wonder if perhaps some versions of the KLF series didn't have melamine on the baffles, and thus may never develop the baffle separation issue. I did test mine and I can't hear any baffle separation. Maybe I got lucky with this pair...for now. Or, maybe some versions will never develop the issue due to different materials of construction. Any thoughts or knowledge would be appreciated.
  5. I tested the KLF-20's today and all the drivers work. I also don't hear any baffle rattling when I push the volume. I found the thread below, and the insides of the baffles are black. Looking through the ports on mine, the inside surface of the front baffle is not black. It is a tan color, maybe raw MDF, but I can't be certain. This makes me wonder if some KLF-20 baffles do not have the melamine coating that is reported to be the cause of the glue adhesion issue that causes the baffles to rattle. Could it be that some versions of the KLF-20 don't and won't have the baffle rattle issue because the baffle inside surfaces are not covered with melamine? Am I barking up the wrong tree here? https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/132208-klf-20-cabinets-exposed/ Also, mine have inspected and tested signature labels with English names on the backs, so I assume they were made in the US, right?
  6. Hi, been I while since I visited the forum. A friend a of my brother-in-law gave me a pair of KLF-20 yesterday. He just wanted them out of his garage and I helped him with some audio consulting in exchange. I also own a pair of Forte 1 and RF-7 III. I have not had a chance to test the KLF-20 yet, so I don’t know if the drivers all work properly. I also don’t yet know if the front and back baffles are loose from the known gluing issue on the KLF series (which I have been reading about). If the front and back baffles are loose, I’ve been thinking of ways to secure them without removing and regluing them. Aesthetics aside, could the following work? I am not worried about the aesthetics of the below because the front would be covered by the grill and the back is, well, the back. Run screws (pre-drill holes) around the perimeter of the front and back baffles (blue circles in pic), spaced maybe every 6-8 inches. Isn’t there a wood lip that the baffles sit on, maybe around 3/8 inch wide that I could screw into all around the perimeter of the baffle? To ensure air-tightness, run a small/neat bead of black RTV sealant in the joint/gap (green line in pic)? Would the above work to fasten and seal the baffles? These speakers are medium oak and have some scratches in the veneer, so they are not going to be used in a living room anyway. They would be man cave or garage speakers where their appearance doesn’t really matter.
  7. Old thread, but relevant title... Used in a 2-channel system, I first owned RP-280F, then RF-7 II, and now currently RF-7 III. I found the RP-280F to be very bright/piercing at times, the RF-7 II less so, and the RF-7 III to be pretty even and neutral. This is all just my opinion based on the 3 different pair in the same room with the same electronics. For those with direct experience, how do the RP-8000F sound vs. the RP-280F? Are the RP-8000F (and 6000F) toned down at all in the upper mids and highs vs. the RP-280F? Reason I ask is because I am thinking about changing L/C/R speakers in the 5.1 system (separate system in different room). The 8000F or 6000F with the 600C center are in consideration, but are a bit down on the list because of my experience with the RP-280F.
  8. I keep this little, cheap battery powered Dayton amp in my car just for the purpose of testing speakers at thrift stores, CL, garage sales, etc. I just plug my phone in for the source. Not much power, but enough to determine if all drivers are functioning. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-1-class-d-ac-dc-battery-powered-mini-amplifier-15-wpc--300-380?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw5dnmBRACEiwAmMYGOTCsROEiM9TtXXAZPIXNBdjP7KwVSQ_xt7XtKfcKja34MZjc0W8TLRoCLGoQAvD_BwE
  9. I'm not familiar with the OP's speakers, so I can't say if they are inherently bright. However, I have owned (and since sold) speakers that I thought were excessively bright and fatiguing (some Klipsch and some from other brands), even in rooms that have a decent amount of absorption. I'd say don't be afraid to try some treble control reduction and/or EQ. Assuming you ran the Audyssey calibration, for starters, you can try Audyssey "Reference" (which applies some HF roll-off EQ) and play with DEQ on/off. You can also further adjust the treble control if needed.
  10. I was thinking that you could just temporarily tape some thin plywood or something else rigid to the back of the cabinet, assuming some type of tape will stick well enough.
  11. To my knowledge, the Powergate does not have any crossover built-in. Were you previously driving the AW6500's with a different amp? Might also want to verify that you have speaker wire polarity correct. I don't have any bass complaints with a Powergate driving NHT SB3 bookshelf speakers. Now, its wi-fi streaming reliability, that's another story...not good at all in my experience. I've resorted to using a Chromecast Audio connected via optical. You might consider picking up a Chromecast Audio (discontinued, but still available on eBay). The Chromecast Audio has bass and treble controls for a bit of sound tweaking. Regarding the heat, I have mine sitting on top of an AC Infinity fan with the air blowing up. Keeps it cool.
  12. Yep, you are right. Tone controls are still available with Audyssey on the Marantz AV7704. I will research into and experiment with bass tone control increase vs. sub level increase.
  13. OK, thanks anyway for posting that. I'll do more research in this area and report back if I learn something significant.
  14. Yep, what you posted is basically what I discovered on my own, except that I've been playing with +6-7 dB sub(s) boost, and I am doing it in the source-specific "Options-Channel Levels" menu, rather than globally in the test tone settings. I already discovered that the SLA setting on the AV7704 is not the best to use, because it does not adjust from the calibrated level as a starting point. Can you point me to that AVS thread? I'd like to determine if there is more background on the recommended 5 dB sub boost. Thanks.
  15. Those "After" curves are predicted, not measured from what I understand. I don't think Audyssey is that good in reality. 😊 Adjusting sub levels up is a way to increase the bass below the LPF point - guess it would create a bass shelf in the summed curve. Not sure if Tone Controls are available when Audyssey is enabled - will need to check that out. Thanks.
  16. The nice thing about the MultEQ editor app is that one can limit the correction range to Schroeder (say somewhere between 200-300Hz), and leave the mids and highs uncorrected/filtered. If it works as intended, it would flatten the bass peaks and valleys a bit, and leave the rest alone. I think the issue with this is that a rising bass room curve is often preferred, and Audyssey targets flat bass. I believe this is why many folks then bump their sub levels several dB to get the rising bass response (kind of brute force and probably not the best way to get the intended room curve), but hopefully "better" bass response because major room-induced peaks and valleys are reduced. As a newbie to Audyssey and the MultEQ app, that's at least how I think of this at this point.
  17. Posting similar stuff at AVS, but thought I’d bring this topic to the Klipsch forum for additional input. This topic is more of a 2-channel music priority for me, but since it involves XT32, thought I'd post it here. Recently picked up a Marantz AV7704 pre/pro (coming from an Outlaw 975) and am using XT32 and the MultEQ Editor app for the first time. So far, I have found that the MultEQ app calibration without further adjustment sounds very thin and bass shy with 2-channel music, unless I boost sub levels (dual subs) about 6-7 dB. I believe this is due to the flat bass response that is targeted. This seems to be a common observation/complaint. I believe that I might prefer a more typical house curve (Harman-like, perhaps) with a rising bass response. This would be in the context of combined L/R/subs curves. BTW, I set my L/R to small and 80 Hz crossover after the calibration. My L/R in this system are Polk LS90 floorstanders. Subs are dual Outlaw 12" models. So, I’m curious if other folks feel that the bass needs tweaking after calibration and would like to know what you’ve done to tweak. I don’t have REW capabilities (yet) and realize that this is probably needed to really understand the baseline and impact of adjustments. The MultEQ app curve editor provides the ability to tweak the individual channel curves, but I know that I’m probably shooting in the dark without REW. I know that some folks have bumped L/R bass frequencies with the curve editor and bumped sub level(s) to achieve a smooth rising bass response (and they confirmed this with REW). Just looking for some experience and insight on this topic. Thanks. For reference, I attached screenshots of the L/R and subs "Before" curves from 2 separate app calibrations. Assuming these "Before" curves are accurate, looks like the room transition is at around 250-300 Hz.
  18. Yeah, the Forte I are on risers in the unfinished portion of our basement. I'm standing most of the time in this area, which is mainly the home gym and workshop area. Also, they are raised to clear some utility and storage stuff in this area. I use them in a 2.1 configuration now, with dual subs. I also use this system to evaluate other speakers (bookshelf speakers sitting on top of the Forte 1) in 2.1. This system is a bit of a "test rig" I've used to play with dozens of speakers over the years. I previously had RF-7 II where the RF-7 III now reside (first floor open concept area). The RF-7 II were a bit bright. The RF-7 III are more balanced, IMO. I don't feel the RF-7 III have a depressed midrange at all. I really like the RF-7 III, which is why I'm considering moving them down to the 5.1 system in the finished portion of the basement, where I feel they would get more use. The RF-7 III are closer to 100 lb. each, but moving them is not a problem. I'm a pretty big guy with an able-bodied 17 year old son for back-up (😊). It's the fine-tuning of position that is a pain with the RF-7 III on carpet. I will remove the spikes for this the next time I move them. I'm pretty curious about how the Forte I will sound where the RF-7 III reside. I need to make some time to do this, as trying this will be the only way to know how I feel about the Forte I in this room vs. the RF-7 III. I realize this thread is probably a bit confusing because it involves swapping speakers in 3 separate systems, but ultimately it's about the comparison of the currently-residing RF-7 III vs. moving the Forte I into this location.
  19. Not doubting your observation, just find it interesting that the Forte I and Forte III would have significantly different bass. I think I just need to bite the bullet and try the Forte I in System 3. If they sound good and have adequate bass in this large, open family room, I will really consider moving the RF-7 III to the finished basement room 5.1 system (and purchase the RC-64 III). So, the net would hopefully be an upgrade to the 5.1 system (System 1), without a downgrade to System 3.
  20. Interesting, I have never heard Forte III, but I would not describe my Forte I as having "loose" bass. Again, I have no comparison to the Forte III though. However, I have never listened to my Forte I in a "normal" room/placement. They are in the large, unfinished section of our basement, and are on risers to get the tweeters near ear level while standing (which I know reduces bass output). I have used them in 2.0 and 2.1 (bass managed at 80 Hz) in this system (System 2 in my sig). If it was not such a pain to move and place the RF-7 III, I would just move them out of System 3 and try the Forte I there. However, sounds like the Forte I would would give up some bass performance to the RF-7 III in 2.0.
  21. I wonder how the Forte I and Forte III compare, in terms of bass. Probably similar?
  22. I’ve been thinking about doing some speaker rearranging in my systems. Please note the systems in my sig. I’m considering moving the RF-7 III from System 3 (2.0) to System 1 (5.1), and picking up a RC-64 III. I would then move the Forte I in System 2 or the Polk LS90 in System 1 into System 3. System 3 would remain 2.0. System 3 is in a large, open area that consists of a family room, informal dining area, and kitchen – around 18’ x 50’ and open to other rooms. So, the question is whether the Forte I will struggle vs. the RF-7 III in this space, especially in terms of bass output in 2.0? I like to push the volume at times with the RF-7 III, and feel like they really maintain their composure while putting out very satisfying bass in 2.0 in this large area. My gut tells me that the Forte I, with less woofer cone area, may not be able to achieve the same bass impact in this area. Thoughts?
  23. Someone should post that link on whatever site he posted that misinformation. In addition to JBL's consumer products, I assume he would also consider Revel's consumer products to be "junk" too? They are under the Harman name, you know.
  24. Do you have DLNA server software installed and running on your NAS? If so, you should be able to select that server in Hi-Fi cast, and select the CCA as the renderer. BTW, I've had good experiences with Minimserver for FLAC files on my PC. They have a page for installation on Qnap. Might be worth a try. https://minimserver.com/install-qnap.html
  25. To paraphrase him... Klipsch does not have an engineering staff... Klipsch is 100% sales and marketing... Klipsch products are all made in factories in China... He has lost all credibility with me. I mean, what type of "industry expert" spews total misinformation like that? Burns me up a little.
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