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pat_in_dfw

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Everything posted by pat_in_dfw

  1. I have ONE with the driver and horn. I picked up the front speakers from a theater that closed and I got all the bass bins, but they had sold the L/R horns already and only had the center left. Not much I can do with only one horn, so if you want a full L/C/R set you've got three horns here.
  2. I have LaScalas for my mains and those go pretty strong down to around 50hz. I was hoping to use these AS a subwoofer to extend the bass from the LaScalas down lower while accenting the "thump" factor. I'm going to be moving in June, so I probably won't even get a chance to set these up until after I move. I'm getting them now because the previous owner is moving and needs them gone. I'll likely try the MCM driver with DSP knowing that I can return the MCM within 30 days. I wish I could get an answer sooner, but it will likely be mid summer before I get any useful data.
  3. If they were built for those drivers, can you explain the performance and why the low end virtually disappears below 50hz? I've attached the response graph for the K33 in that cabinet. I was looking for a driver to extend the low end further. Even without EQ the MCM driver extends almost 10hz lower than the K33.
  4. I still have 2 of these that I used in my old house as part of the whole house audio distribution system. "New" house wasn't technically new so I couldn't run the cables where I needed for audio in every room so I'm not using the amps now.
  5. I have a pair of Quartets that are very similar in sound to the Heresy. It would be a tight fit with their 12" depth which would only leave a bit less than 2" for the passive radiator. I think those need to be at least 6 inches from the wall so those might work. I also have a pair of KG3s which have a very nice sound and aren't very deep (11") if you are interested. Since you're in DFW you could come listen to them before making a decision.
  6. I just ordered a badge for less than $20. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322463632699
  7. It wasn't the fact that it was the cheapest. I don't have unlimited funds so I was looking at the best performance/price ratio. I looked at the best performance that I could get regardless of cost without changing the port tuning and that came from the Lab15 at a cost of $285 per driver ($1140). That gave a response down to 32hz with a slight boost at 40hz that should help the low end. The MCM drivers start to fade around 50hz but are -3db at 42. There is one factor that makes the decision look better once I explain it. It's not just the cheapest speaker, but it's also the best performing. The big factor that might be easily overlooked is the sensitivity. The MCM driver is 10db higher than the Lab15. The actual response of the MCM is -10db at 28hz while the Lab15 is -3db at 32hz. To illustrate this I've overlaid the MCM freq response with the Lab15. I can use a Biamp DSP (I have several Nexias laying around) to pull the levels down starting at 30hz and above to make it completely flat from 30hz to 100hz. Given the Lab15s sensitivity of 88db, the MCM's in-box response is -3db at 28hz given 1w power measured at 1m and flat at 88db from 30hz to 100hz. With the aid of the Biamp DSP the MCM drivers are -3db at 28hz with a flat response up to 100hz. For a total cost of the drivers of less than $130. That's the reason I am leaning toward the MCMs - not just because they are cheaper.
  8. I don't know that many horn loaded designs that will give much bass extension other than the Khorn that won't take up half the room. The price on the DBBs are right (free) so I'm trying to come up with a driver to maximize the cabinet. The power ratings were RMS and meant to show a comparison between drivers.
  9. I sent this message in a p.m. to a member previously because we were having a discussion but I thought it would be a good conversation topic for the entire group and hopefully I can get some Brains involved who are much smarter than me to offer their input. I am going to pick up a set of DBBs this coming weekend. They don't have drivers so I need to find ones that work. Previous comments have been to use the Emminence Kappalites or the K33 Cornwall driver but I want to extend the bass and use this as a subwoofer to complement LaScala mains. I based my model off a 6 cu ft volume and tuning of 34hz. If these values are not right please tell me. I've looked at the Kappalite as well as others. I'll list what I found. Crites: I looked at Crites Cornwall replacement woofers mainly as a price reference. I couldn't find the T/S parameters but I'll admit that I didn't look hard either. Our CW1526C 15 inch Cast Frame Woofers. Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, and Cornwall. Shipping is $25.00 by FedEx in the US. (Not for the LaScala). Model CW1526C Pair: $275.00. Our CW1526 15 inch Stamped Steel Frame Woofers. Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, Cornwall and LaScala. Shipping is $25.00 by UPS in the US. Model CW1526 Pair: $240.00 Our CW1526F has the same specs as our CW1526. Difference is that the CW1526F has a thinner front gasket and a second gasket behind the frame. This woofer works better for flush mounting in a motor board such as that on the Cornwall II. It also works well for rear mounting for the Cornwall 1. Shipping is $25.00 per pair in the US. Model CW1526F Pair: $260.00 Based on the box volume of the Cornwall (6 cu ft) and a tuning frequency of 32hz-34hz I ran the following drivers with the results as shown: Klipsch K33e (Emminence 15162) (cost ??) (300w RMS per cabinet) SPL dB 96.6 F3 of 50hz with 34hz port tuning (not great - I can't see using the stock K33e for low frequencies) Eminence Kappalite 3015LF ($199 each) (900w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 96 dB F3 of 52hz (not really that low - I couldn't see using this) Emminence Lab15 ($285 each) (1200w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 88.5 dB F3 of 32hz (nice, but at that price it's almost $1200 for 4 drivers) Dayton Audio DCS380-4 15" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm ($87 each) (500w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 93.6 dB For this I would have to lower the tuning frequency to 19hz by making the port opening smaller or adding to the length. Final results of F3 at 30hz Goldwood GW-15PC-4 ($88 each) (550w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 94.9 dB F3 of 34hz with no adjustments to tuning frequency Goldwood GW-15PC-8 ($89 each) (550w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 92.3 dB F3 of 35hz Dayton Audio UM15-22 15" Ultimax DVC ($189 each) (1600w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 86.5 dB Would have to change the port tuning to 22hz by closing off some of the port opening or changing port length. F3 of 24hz with adjusted port tuning Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 15" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm ($155 each) (1000w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 91.2 dB Would have to change the port tuning to 22hz. F3 of 24hz with adjusted port tuning Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm ($165 each) (1600w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity 92.8 dB slightly adjust tuning frequency to 29hz F3 of 28hz with adjusted port tuning MCM Audio Select (55-2953) ($32 each) (400w RMS per cabinet) Sensitivity (1W/M): 98 dB (very nice) F3 of 42hz at 34hz port tuning With all of this data I think I can toss out the idea of using the stock K33 driver because it would have a low end F3 of barely 50hz. I don't know how the Cornwall claims a low end of 34hz unless it's -10db at 34hz. Based on the price vs performance I'm leaning toward the MCM 55-2953. It only handles 400w RMS, but with the efficiency of 98db I don't think it will need very much power to reach high levels. I can live with an F3 of 42hz at that price. To get what I really want I would have to use the Dayton HF sub with a change in the port tuning to get a F3 of 24hz. But $155 per driver vs $32 per driver is quite a big difference. Given a 3bd increase every time power doubles the output for the MCM driver would be: 1w = 101db (two drivers coupled together gives a 3db increase) 2w = 104db 4w = 107db 8w = 110db 16w = 113db 32w = 116db 64w = 119db 128w = 121db 256w = 124db 400w = 125db or 126db That means by spending $130 I could get 125db levels......not bad. What are your thoughts?
  10. I have 3 of the industrial LaScalas for my theater and I haven't opened then up. The seller of the L/R told me the caps were changed in 2016 and the L/R use a Crites tweeter. Patrick
  11. So that means they would have a B3 crossover, right?
  12. Based on serial number, when were these made? Pic attached.
  13. I have a pair of 85 LaScalas that I'm bringing to sell. It has the original crossover. Since the crossover is easy access without opening the cabinet this would be a good one for the re-cap demo / training. What would I need to buy? I know Crites sells a kit but is that the best route vs finding caps that are the correct value from elsewhere? What value caps would I need to buy and what quantity? Patrick
  14. Yes I am going to the Pilgrimage. I have several speakers to sell there and I wanted to know if I needed to re-cap before selling if it would add value. Or alternately if NOT recapping would adversely affect the value. I have a set of Cornwalls and LaScalas of my own that have original crossovers. Based on what has been said it seems like those need new caps regardless. Thanks for the advice and info. The recap training session sounds like a great idea. Patrick
  15. I have several pairs of older Klipsch speakers as well as other brands. Given the age of some, I would suspect that new caps are in order. But how can you tell if they need to be replaced? I listen to each set and they sound great. Without having a new pair of a given speaker to A/B compare, I can't tell if what I'm hearing is how they are supposed to sound or if something is wrong. Being in my mid-40s and working in pro sound for so many years have not been kind to my hearing in the upper frequencies. I've EQ'd enough rooms and run test tones to know that my hearing tops out around 12k or 13k. What exactly is the sound to listen for if caps are bad? Thanks, Patrick
  16. A pickup at Goodwill that isn't working......could be a million things that might have happened. If you could spend $100 or less on repairs I'd do it. Anything more and I don't think it would be worth it given that you don't know the history and something else might be going out on it soon. These are good amps, but like anything - if they have been abused I wouldn't want to take the risk.
  17. Shipping would be tough. These are heavy and would be hard to pack. I'm going to bring them out to Hope to the Pilgrimage if you're going to be there. Patrick
  18. No - I think it's just bad lighting.
  19. PA subs are more for high output and to get decent response on the low end you would need a DSP with some EQ to boost the low end. I have some JBL cinema subs with dual 15s and the specs are similar. But they handle a massive amount of power. I have the low end boosted and smoothed out from 30hz - 50hz by boosting at 30-35 and cutting from 50-80. It doesn't handle 1600 watts now but I'm only pushing it with 600w and it sounds pretty good.
  20. I noticed a couple of people mentioned something about less than good condition of these speakers. I want to know what you're seeing that makes then less than top condition. I want to get the most that I can so I'll do whatever I need to make sure they are in top shape. I saw something on the front edge of the right speaker that looked like a little white spot on the corner. I'm not sure what it was but it wiped off with the wet rag easily. I'm probably should have wiped them down before I took the pictures but I literally just unplugged them and took the pictures as they were. I got the other badge yesterday and I put it on. That was the only blemish with the speakers. The drivers are literally perfect. What would I need to do to make these a very good or excellent condition seeing as how I'm not sure what's wrong with him now that seems to be a detraction? Thanks, Patrick
  21. Gone. What was it? If you see anything in the Dallas area send me a PM.
  22. Why would someone drive a Ferrari when they had a Honda before? Nothing wrong with a Honda but the Ferrari is so much more fun. Basically because the Cornwalls blow the doors off the Quartets. They are bigger and better in every phase of the sound.
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