Bob01464

Up in Shirley but I work in Concord. So either area

I have a KD-16-K from a Chorus II. Its in good shape. Optimally looking for $50 plus shipping from MA. Figured someone might have a need.

Thanks Moray that's kind of what I was thinking also. I plan on photo etching some new crossover boards so maybe I will install both coils and make it switch or jumper select-able between the two. Would love to know why they designed the filter the way they did with 2 equal caps. Everything I see has the second cap at about 3 times the value of the first. I'm sure they had a good reason but I am curious.

Just wondering if anybody would have a good idea if the 160uH coil in the tweeter high pass portion of the crossover was replaced with a 100uH coil. I was hoping to push the crossover point up to about 7K in support of Ti Mid diaphragms. It seams to be a third order 18db filter used but Klipsch looks to be approaching it from a different way with the matched 2uf caps. I don't have a accurate way to calculate what the coil change would do to the crossover point, but think it would put me in the ballpark. I have brand new caps from Crites and it would be great if I could utilize them. Any thoughts?

Well I'll be damn...LOL. Bob's design is real close to what I was thinking in my head.

Thanks Moray I do appreciate your input. One of reasons I asked was if I was to build a custom cabinet would it be better to get closer to the optimum size. Was thinking of something along the lines of the Klipschorn corner placed enclosure but done a conventional forward firing woofer and maintaining the 3 way layout. Bracing would be a major consideration. Luckily do have the room to do it. I will admit some of this is just thinking out loud and seeing what other peoples thoughts and experiences are.

Just wondering if anybody had put the Chorus k-48 into a larger enclosure. After running the numbers it look like the optimum ported enclosure size should be around 8 to 9 cu ft. That's about double what the Chorus cabinets provide. Would there be a trade-off for the lower tuning? If it seems like a win win I might have to give it a shot.

Hey nothing to be sorry for. Much appreciated

Yea I did take a look at the JBL 15" passive but most were going for 150+. Alot of money for something that might not even be optimum

If these were some nice oil finished cabinets I would be more hesitant on any mods but they are the black version that have been around the block a few times.

The 15" is no longer available through parts express. Totally agree on the lining and polyfill.

Thanks CECAA850 I hadn't considered that. I'll add it to the option list...LOL

Wow great information. Seems that the PDF posted by nd-irish147 is pretty spot on. Thanks!!!

Yea I did consider PVC but 4" Schedule 40 PVC is huge and heavy. I also wanted to utilize a flared port. I think my intention will be to make a panel the complete size of the back thereby covering the existing cutout, strengthening the entire rear structure and my 4" flared ports won't require huge cutouts in the existing cabinet to clear the flares.

I'm shying away from that approach due to the port calculations I'm getting. What I'm coming up with is a min port dia of 5.5". A pair of 4" ports puts me at about 8" apiece and a single 6" port would be approx 8". This would run right into the woofers magnet. So my thought was to use 2 4" flared ports on the rear of the cabinet in the upper corners. Hopefully getting at least 1 Dia distance from the surrounding structure. Also my gut feeling and I don't know if any fact supports this, is to put some distance from the woofer to the ports.

Found this in another post: Specs seem to be different from the PDF above. Chorus and Chorus II both use the same K-48 woofer. Can't confirm if they are actually accurate.

Watching closely as I have much the same questions.

Had some good input over on the Garage Sale board. Going to shift it back to this board. My current thought is to block the PR holes and rear port at the top corners. 2 - 4" flared ports between 8" and 10" Figured the rear porting might give me a boost as these will be in the corners of the room (20' x 22'). Also I won't have to cut into the motor board. I had thought about putting the ports where the PR used to be but they would extend too far into the cabinet due to the woofer magnet occupying that area. So a couple of questions. - Whats the optimum tuning frequency for the enclosure. Was figuring around 37Hz but does going lower have any advantage. I know you don't get something for nothing. - Does flaring the port internal to the box provide any benifit or just take up space. - Would adding any internal bracing say mid cabinet provide any benefit - Any other mods I should be considering. Mid horns might get some new Crites diaphragms (Not the Ti one's at this point). Thanks alot Bob

Hey thanks everyone.

Thanks Moray, I actually have a post in the Tech section asking that same question

Yea unfortunately it is missing in its entirety.

Thanks Mark, I took your advice and posted a WTB. Still would love to hear anybody else's thoughts on the subject. Is the PR better then a properly ported configuration.

Just wondering if someone might have a Passive Radiator from a Chorus ii they are willing to part with. Thanks Bob

Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum but have been doing a lot of reading on it the last month or so. I currently have a pair of Chorus 2's that were given to me probably close to 6 years ago (Yup free of charge). Well I recently got them out of storage as they finally have a place to go in my office over the garage I'm building. The problem is one of them is missing the passive radiator all together so I have a 15" hole in the back. Its one hell of a port...LOL. So I'm looking at my options here. I have not been able to track down a stock replacement passive. What are the thoughts of covering the hole in the back and placing two 4" ports in the front as the original Chorus had. Only tuned to a enclosure frequency of around 37Hz (If that's the best recommended freq). Would that give me more flexibility in placement also (Might not be a issue as they will be in the corners). Might the ports be better off higher on the motor board or maybe rear ported. The other option that seems to be readily available is the 15" JBL Passives that are available on Ebay (Expensive though). Of course I have no idea if they would even be a good match and are close mass wise. I do have 4 4" flared port kits sitting in the garage just asking to be used so its tempting as all hell...LOL. I did purchase the Crites (Great Guy) Ti Tweeter drivers and crossover repair kit. I will be installing these once I have decided on which direction to proceed in. Are there any other mods that would be recommended while I have them torn down. Let me just thank you in advance and welcome your thoughts Bob