RoboKlipsch

Every ported design has a 1st port resonance, a frequency which you want to try and cross roughly an octave below or more to avoid. In designing subs its in the software....many horns have this issue and thus are crossed lower i.e. 80hz 100hz max. But each design is different. Sometimes its 500hz and is itrelevant.

Definitely sounds like an avr software setting. Rerun calibration each time it should be near identical.

No doubt! Even more impressive is the basic technologies are similar to what they were 50 years ago...just in some cases now better materials and more precise engineering.

i am interested but am dealing with some personal issues...spring is better for me but i will do my best to attend whenever it is planned i have rp160ms which would be excellent for 2 channel

pay close attention to dolbys basic setup instructions. there is a vast difference between a no compromise well reasoned setup and one done to make the room just look good audioholics is a wonderful site for setup also. height of speakers...distances from walls....and clear listening paths to all speakers are key to great surround system setups nothing replaces trial and error. what anybody or any site suggests does not supercede how it actually sounds test your placements before making them permanent mount on boxes or ladders or similar to actually hear it...then tweak it up down etc a bit and listen again it should take a week or so of testing to get a semi permanent layout dont be stubborn and just guess and leave it the fun work of learning on your own is a hugely rewarding experience goodluck and ask questions many here such as Yman have or had exactly the same speakers and similar rooms and can point you in the right direction the WHY of it all is invaluable and will make you feel truly empowered Happy Holidays!

MO is you can do better integrating them in the crown and using 1 input

Excellent thread although nobody provided a detailed review of the IIIs 😓 I will admit i am a derrick disciple so my opinions mirror his a key to keep in mind is all autocorrection systems are ROOM CORRECTION software unless you have an outdoor setup the room itself is what causes the rf7s to sound different than the testing lab most owners become used to their rooms...and only a few can or are willing to treat it Audyssey and MCACC and Dirac all strive to recreate the original sound by correcting room problems

In a ported box a woofer wants a specific size enclosure to have a smooth response. You would want to measure the box dimensions, estimate the displacement of the slot port and drivers and subtract those in order to come up with a net cabinet volume. Then search for a driver that has -- the same size cutout, a lower Fs (-3db spec) and models well in that net volume. Since there are 2 subs per box make sure to divide the net by 2 to get the volume per driver. You could have a hugely improved set of subs but as described above it will require some searching to find a suitable driver. The tip above about a low rider may give you a nice shortcut if the specs work in those boxes. What you have now is a pro style sub setup built for big volume and not a lot.of low end.

In general subs should all have the same phase setting. However i have seen many occasions where one sub needs its phase 180 out for best integration. Phase and distance are not exactly the same thing either, so ideally each sub can have its phase and distance set independently. A simple test is measure one sub by itself. Add another sub and measure. Flip the phase of that extra sub and measure again. One setting usually has a much higher overall output which is "correct." Then add another sub and repeat...measure, flip the phase and choose the better/higher output. If you have trouble differentiating them then leave them in the same phase. The choice to change subs is not related to phase settings so dont change with that idea in mind. The 18 should be in or out of phase with the others based upon measurements...but generally speaking all subs should be in the same phase setting. In one of my theaters one of 4 subs is out of phase with the others and the output difference is quite large....out of phase its a much smoother higher output...in phase its choppy and lower. You wont be able to tell just by ear with 4 subs theres too much going on.

It sounds like you have 2 good questions -- Is Atmos cool and does Klipsch do it well Is Klipsch an upgrade from where you are Yes to both

Every point is valid but you are talking around your original question. will you benefit from more HEADROOM from the larger 450c you will get 1-2db of headroom that may or may not free up the other channels depending upon how the power supply works. and you already have a bunch of headroom based upon how you listen at those levels. Externally amp the center and suddenly your 80watt max could be 400watt peaks...representing over 7db of headroom. and if you think different amps have no benefit be sure to ask the same people in this thread how many have Emotiva or other external amps...or just look at signatures. i have the very same speakers as you and have more power available. i run 7 channels and denons are discrete. i do not run an external amp on them. for me, there was a reason i chose rp160ms...after having giant floorstanding speakers. you could upgrade your rp160ms to rf7s and get more headroom that way too. but my long but simple take is there is no benefit headroom-wise to the rp450c. is there benefit to a larger center qualitatively? yes potentially. but the greatest benefit in that regard would not be an rp450c but in fact another rp160m. it would be superior qualitatively to either the rp250c or 450c because in your well treated room you would have a seamless soundstage.

Thank you for being so polite and cordial. Very nice to discuss with you. 42s would be great but 52s and then 62s are a big step up imo

You cannot make the entire room sound good with one sub. Its possible sometimes but you have tested and proven it to be no. The goal in any room is to make an area around the listening position sound good. So if you have the couch sounding good you have succeeded. If you want the entire room to sound good you would need likely 4 subs. And you would need bass traps because the areas close to walls build up bass. So if i were calibrating i would focus only on the couch for now. Position it and the sub for max performance at the couch. The rest of the room is what it is.

The rs52 or rs62 would be amazing. The rb61 or rb51s are also matches. For best balance of cost and coolness i would say rs52s but the deal on rb61s would make them tempting also. Newer rp240s or rp250s or rp150m or rp160m would also work but are not the matching series and will cost more.

ok you did everything right and found the very dead center of the room is a null. we could spend a while discussing the theory but truth is dead center of a room often has this issue. the couch itself is not absorbing it all the waves are bouncing off the walls and cancelling! move the couch forward or back to roughly 1/3rd from the front or back wall do the crawl again it should be amazing and awesome when u find it

in theory it is ideal of all speakers to have either the center of the tweeter or the middle between the tweeter and highest driver beneath it in a vertical configuration. since most horizontal centers are used under a tv its assumed it will be tilted up or down to point as mentioned above. there are adjustable feet under the center for tilting up or down. an rf7 has a big horn and GENERALLY will point close enough to your ears you dont need to adjust. in addition, trying to tilt a floorstanding speaker or put it on a platform can have issues. the best height is where the center of the tweeter points. if you can make your seating like this its ideal. now when it isnt like that its normal and how almost everybody uses them. there is flexibility of say 10 to 15 degrees where it will sound pretty much the same. so unless you are way above or below the rf7s, klipsch intended just about anyone sitting at least 8 to 10 feet away to hear the tweeter perfectly. the center should be mounted as close to ear height as possible. but as long as the rc64 isnt on the floor it will likely tilt and sound great. the rf7s help lock in the higher image from the center too.

True but at what point do you get more power vs larger speakers? In the 90s youre about as high as it gets in most consumer equipment. Theres far more value imo to getting an external amp for your existing speakers than getting a bigger speaker. The dynamics of the avr cannot match another amp. Food for thought. Its not just headroom of course. Kudos on treating your room.

No problem. If used up front it might be noticeable. As surrounds no.

i use a pair now as back surrounds 13ft away. imo they are surprisingly nice and i see no issues with you blowing them up i also agree with the opinions that the wide dispersion surrounds (double faced speakers) are beyond awesome. for value go r15m or rb51s for coolest best surround go rp240s or rp250s or rs52ii...they are all excellent

at 11ft i compute the center can do 105db continuously and roughly 112db peak...if sent that much power you are currently listening at a level using 90 to 100db of that 105db capability if you start listening at 0 to -5 then you might want to upgrade

imo there is little benefit. more drivers then the avr just turns them down anyway ill repeat this forever....yes you can try to overcome clarity issues by forcing more spl out of a source but clarity comes from reducing near reflections not by increasing spl or speaker size. my room is 30ft deep and the 250c kicks axx and can be clearly heard beyond that in the kitchen and theres almost no treatment in that room you have tons of headroom. try turning the center up 8db to hear. dont leave it that way....but youll hear it. buying a bigger center wont be clearer or louder in this case but you might turn up your center say 2db if the room is not treated its a good solution to a more complicated problem 2 more drivers increases the potential output.....at already insane levels the only other difference is the crossover which matters but wont sound different in this case

Google sub crawl and try it. This is a common issue

It did. I dont know what they do but it did 😁

Thanks to all for great suggestions. Im trying the Harmony Hub and its cool but even with a computer degree i feel like an idiot programming it! Ill try for another week and report back.

Happy Thanksgiving. Enjoy and give it a while to see. The open spaces make it much harder to get impactful bass...thats why some people get used to lesser subs and like them...they boom hard in open rooms or closed rooms. In a few weeks you will adjust ime.