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RoboKlipsch

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Everything posted by RoboKlipsch

  1. Ok the info helps in pointing you towards your solution. Seating position is critical. Answering any questions about your room are guesses based upon best practices. Measuring is easy and fun but time consuming and a step too far for many people. But the caveat to any advice is that the only way to know whats best in any room is to measure. Some pros can hear well enough to get close but I certainly can't. So that said general principles -- The rule of thirds says split the dimension in 3 and sit on or close to the front or back third line. In a large room this might mean sitting at the line about one third from the front wall. In many rooms the back third is more appropriate. Your screen size and viewing distances for optimal response should also be considered. Adding room aesthetics to the equation the "best" starting point for the couch is roughly where the footrest is right now, about a third forward from the back wall. The optimal seating range for your projector is very important too...I would ideally start the couch at a third from the back wall and then either leave it there or move it forward just to the point that its also in the ideal viewing distance for your screen size and resolution. If you measured you would quickly find where the response is flattest while having very good bass response. Where the couch is allowed to be in the room will determine what you can set up with it and where to place it. For example if you decide the couch has to be on the back wall creating a 7.2.x environment becomes very hard. And good 5.2.x is hard to achieve on the back wall. Once it is a few feet off the back wall there is some flexibility where because you can easily add some acoustic panels back there if you sit close to it(within a few feet). Take some time to find where you can put the couch. Listen to the existing front speakers as a rough guide for where it sounds better and worse and look and listen for the best placement. Rob
  2. First I agree with you OP that the speakers are improperly placed. Clearly the previous owner believed having speakers as wide as possible insures all seats are in the "zone". Its a logical idea but misguided. As you know, a speaker, especially Klipsch, has something directing the high frequencies typically a waveguide or horn. The horn spreads sound up down left and right and does so with specific angles in mind. There are some acoustic panels next to the fronts, a recognition to absorb early reflections but once speakers are poorly placed the absorption just improves it a little. How much or whether to tow the speakers in at all fully depends upon the speaker, the room and the seating. No doubt the fronts and backs are poorly placed. Second, get the couch off the wall. If you are up for turning the theater as suggested you have a much easier time placing the couch in the room. But you would be covering the windows. If you want to go this route lets discuss that as it changes everything. Assuming you don't...couch off the wall. More the better at least a few feet. Looks bad? Fix that but don't compromise on seating position. Its a big big compromise on a wall. No matter what u do I suggest a 7.x.x system. 5.1 is fine but 7 1 is better and hardly complicated or difficult. You would need perhaps one or 2 side surrounds on stands which would look fine. Back surrounds are placed MUCH closer together than they are now. Chris has diagrams for 7.1 also. Atmos is an option as long as you are making changes. A whole additional conversation. May sound crazy but DONT BUY ANYTHING yet! Figure out your room and strategy then execute. Selecting speakers is fun and easy when you know what u want exactly. Believe it or not, the room setup is way more important than which speakers. Flooratanding speaker could be used in any of your locations, or in wall or on wall. All will look great in your room. The previous owner valued aesthetics and knew what he knew but limited himself with speaker placement. My suggested plan: 1. Determine what you and/or the family want the room to be. Is appearance top priority or making it a perfect theater room? 2. What orientation will you use? Facing the windows loses the windows, but if you really want a great theater dark is required. You could add acoustic panels over the window wall and place any floorstanding speakers you want. If u keep existing configuration that's fine too just need to decide. 3. Where will you sit? Get off the walls. I could explain for 20 more paragraphs 😨. Dont do it. 4. 5.1? 7.1? Atmos? Multiple subs, 1 sub? 5. Will you treat the room any further (a few acoustic panels to help)? 6. What speakers do you want and what do you need? Thats all 😈
  3. 125hz if using shelf mode 80hz in flat mode Gain is how loud you are setting the sub. It sends more or less signal to the sub overall i.e. if you cross at 100 everything under 100hz is raised or lowered with that gain knob. The crossover sets where the sub begins to cut off. If the bass is very thin in a spot or bloated but just in one area...you should raise or lower the crossover to get a smooth flat response. A mic measures this best but your ear can be sharp too. All the above assumes you are not using an avr. If you do, set the crossover on the sub to max and use the avr to set it as i mentioned above.
  4. Issues with center channels are typically room related. Putting in a bigger channel can by brute force add some dbs and presence but it doesn't solve the room issues. If the center channel sounds weak, turn it up a few dbs, it's that simple. Installing a larger center channel will just add the same dbs. Now if the quality of that center is better, that is another issue -- and a real issue. If the quality of your center channel bothers you, consider upgrading all 3 front speakers to another line. Because changing just the center will sound better, perhaps, but not match your other 2 front speakers. That's my 2c. I very much disagree with the 99% who all say just buy the biggest center channel When all 3 front speakers are the same, it is not louder or clearer. It is seamless. Louder and clearer are controlled by the room and the output of the speaker. Since the speaker you currently use has plenty more output, then the only benefit of an upgrade is sound QUALITY. And if you change your center (which I think you would like)...you also should then change your other 2 front speakers.
  5. I do not recommend picking a center based upon anything else besides what best fits the front 3 speakers. Ideally they all match. If not, the matching center from the series is the right play. Now, I can easily argue, as someone who had r28fs and a r25c that the rp250c sounds better than the r25c. but I can also argue that the front speakers, if you get rf52s, rp250fs or pretty much most any other klipsch front speaker you will like the quality even more. So to me the issue is more, what are you really going for? if you want a recommendation for a great front 3 that doesn't break the bank, I and others have many suggestions. If however you want to match your existing speakers, the r25c, which you can find super cheap used or inexpensive new, matches, and sounds nice. You can get one for about $100 or so.
  6. in the current market 400 is high for a used pair of 52s. i am seeing 300 max 350 these days. imo 52s,which i own, are plenty. you wont notice much difference imo. what u would perceive as the benefit -- larger drivers, more spl, are mostly cancelled out by the fact they are mounted onto walls. the midbass is huge when on a wall and audyssey or any other correction system will pull it down to balance them out. mine are pulled down big time, 62s would just be more eq imo. if u dont run correction than the 62s will boom even harder imo, which could be good or bad depending upon preferences.
  7. Ive got a dinosaur of a phone, an s4 and am ready to upgrade. Its been too long since i got a phone and im old enough now not to be in tune with all the trends. I need some help....is an s7 good...or do i want an 8? Dont really care all that much about features. Email phone web pandora mostly cover it. Any auggestions on where to buy? new or refurbed? Tips....pitfalls to avoid? Thank you in advance. Rk
  8. my take on the measurements is they are suspect. ive taken enough changing crossovers to know the response should be affected way more. not sure if you are running full range on the fronts but it looks like it and also that the gain on the subs is almost zero -- look at the change in response....there isnt any and almost no phase change as for where to cross ill say this -- its not a contest to cross the lowest subs usually have more midbass than a pair of fronts...the lower you cross the less midbass you get overall because of this imo i would rarily reco crossing less than 60 and preferably closer to 100...but the overall system response -- including feel -- should determine the crossover point i COULD cross at 40hz easily but have always found multiple subs to outperform mains up to about 80 or 100hz....120 is actually very good too imo but the sub has to support it measure just the sub at multiple positions to learn the subs true response then you can find that best crossover point. unless you have monster mains i wouldnt cross low and even then would prefer the benefit of the subs and mains playing together in that critical range around 60 to 120hz edit: actually the measurements are not suspect for sure but the scale is. 45 to 95db scale with 5db increments sbows you whats really going on....50db graph lines show no detail
  9. To me it all hinges on what "enough" means in this instance They are excellent down to 20hz which when they came out was great response. In todys home theater my opinion is 15hz is really necessary and 10hz is preferable. There is movie content down there worthy of reproduction. SVS is one of several excellent ways to get that.
  10. The couch up against the back wall is very common from a design standpoint but creates many issues when it comes to audio. If you can move it off that wall a foot or two it will dramatically improve -- Bass which builds up along walls....it will negatively color the sound very bassy on that couch and sound like no bass elsewhere.... And surounds are compromised against a wall....and so are even the mains. The proximity of your head to the wall allows reflections to smear what you hear so.... Move it off the wall if you can Consider a few acoustic panels behind the couch on the wall to absorb reflections and then.... Any of those options would work. The 14 is mini id say no...the 42s are good enough but id reco either -- Rs52iis...same as 42s but larger and more in line with your fronts Or rb81s if you have several feet from the sides of the couch to the side walls. What you need to know imo is room design and layout has a larger impact on audio than the specific speakers you buy. Most people spend more on speakers than they need to and never realize their issues are their room...not their equipment.
  11. I had one of the r10s yes gain was maybe 4 or 10oclockish. The r10sw is OK it plays down to 30ish and often booms in the 40 to 50hz range due to the room. Simply take an spl reading using a phone app playing a 2khz tone then play a 50hz test tone from youtube and adjys5t tg6e sub gain so the spl readings are the same. Lol i love the amaze trailer i use it everytime i do autocal
  12. I get the appreciation for horn subs, esp if you like music. But 10k cft is gigantic and my personal view is if you want feel you need several ported subs. I would plan on 4 subs and all at least 15" and preferably 18" My pref is DIY....ultimax 18sin large ported enclosures if ID subs i reco Seaton, Rythmik, SVS or PSA Your choices imo are not enough firepower for the room but are fine subs
  13. I would let them know your exact situation and see what they can do. Theres no doubt if you are willing to wait they can get you a cherry one. If not i would return it and contact Klipsch directly through the web and explain the same. I know if I ran the company and I had a customer overseas with a complete Klipsch setup I would want to support him and get him what he needs. Black would not look bad....but I agree with your sentiments that you deserve a matching center. If it could fit, a discount on a 450c would be a fair compensation imo. It wont overwhelm soundwise.
  14. i would test it on another circuit/outlet...if it keeps doing it i would have it checked.
  15. I was on the show in Chicago as a kid. Of course like many of us also I also played bozo buckets at numerous birthday parties. Great show for the time!
  16. If you sit within 10feet of the speakers any amp is enough. Amazon does not know as much about Klipsch as the Klipsch forum knows. only if you crank music or theater at very high levels...105+ all the time will it leave you short. at 10feet you would have just about 105db sit closer you have more, sit further less most people listen to music from 75 to 95db
  17. If u have workable surround speakers then get the 2nd sub and change surrounds later. I find the wide dispersion surrounds to be the coolest part of the klipsch lineup but they are really beneficial if the main listening spot is about 6 feet or closer to them because it helps prevent the sound from blasting right in your ear. But even still a bookshelf will work imo up until about 4 feet away at which point its too close.
  18. I have 10 subs in 2 theaters yet i would argue that surround sound is more important than a 2nd sub...esp if you like gaming. Games use surrounds even better than movies. Id buy some surrounds and get the 2nd sub at a later date.
  19. If more than one person is in the room it is very difficult to have consistent bass with 1. In that case 2 subs is imo a big help. The Geddes paper which is a landmark study suggests that 90% of the maximum benefit from placing say 50 subs can be achieved with 2 subs. 4 subs is better than 2 but has that large diminshing return. But to make a room almost perfect within a listening area 4 seems to be the key number. 1 sub is required to do HT. 2 subs adds say a 50% improvement to flat response across multiple seats...4 subs another 10 or so.
  20. The RF7s are special imo because they combine the ability to reproduce complicated detailed music beautifully and at the same time can play HT at any level without any issues. The high end with the large tweeter driver is unreal...it sparkles with music and will blow your ears off in HT. Audiophile music abilities with pro level HT capabilites. Magnificent. The 82imo shows it has a smaller tweeter driver. It sounds good...not nearly as good at high levels as the rf7. It is terrific with theater but is not as detailed with music. Solid. The rp280 is like the 82 but has a better higher end detail, i think, because of the redesigned horn with dampening. Capable like the 83, better high end sparkle than the 82...but not capable of the rf7s level. Solid and refined. If the rf7i s 100 Then the 82ii is 80 And the rp280 is 85
  21. Sorry im late to the thread....i have 15ms. Like with all speakers proximity to any wall structure will create reenforcement and gain particularly in the lower frequencies. By moving them further apart they are closer to side walls...by moving them down they are closer to the floor. Both have impact. You likely prefer the sound without much bass with these...where they were before. My guess is the extra reenforcment caused gain at frequencies you werent getting at the old position. They are specd to about 60hz and in most rooms should play to 50s....with the move they are likely playing lower. MAKE SURE you have them set to small in the AVR! Moving them forward or up will reduce the issue.
  22. https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/ele/d/klipsch-rt-10d-subwoofer/6523902486.html no affiliation but heck of a price
  23. I can understand wanting it buried for apearance but a weatherproof sealed sub on the surface in a garden like the speakers at a theme park at first thought would seem more effective. No sound benefit to burying the sub that i can imagine. Proper materials it would seem much better...curious what the pro would say.
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