RoboKlipsch
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Posts posted by RoboKlipsch
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1 hour ago, richw said:
i have read that the best spot for side surrounds should be 2 to 3 feet over your ear.. can you tell me exactly where i should mount the rp-250s on the side wall to my ear..should front driver be slightly behind me or should the center of speaker be lined up with ear.. there is 2 feet behind where i sit
Placement guidance still requires that you test first. Directly to the sides of the seating or back behind slightly is recommended. A foot above ear level is a good starting point. Maybe 2 feet above if it sounds better.
Use boxes or stepladders....test first then install after you find the magic.
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The intro for Edge of Tomorrow is worth a 200mi trip by itself. Transformers is scary good.
Each time I have visited i have turned up my volume by about 10db its like an unintentional shaming i receive when i go there. I would guess we hit 120db easily in his room and only our ears were maxed...not his system.
Then D switches to music mode and can keep up or surpass most 2 channel setups. Rf7s and his are set up beautifully.
D is also a very gracious host, and a good person in general.
At this point the sub forum is so slow we NEED a build thread. Im out of commission build-wise for a while....someone needs to step up. Carl did but was too fast, we need a nice slow build with lots of pics and discussion. 👌
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On 3/9/2018 at 12:00 PM, dross said:
How does it sound compared to the R12-SW?
R10 R12 sound like your average somewhat boomy and limited subs. Nice booms and crashes but poor fidelity and weak low end.
The entire R11xSW series is night and day better. Better smoother response nice low end and worthy of a good Klipsch setup. 115 is the best of the bunch. 115 hits nicely below 20hz and imo is the only one truly worthy of a full home theater experience although the 112sw is pretty close.
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I would use something to raise the tv enough to put the center on the stand as it will be much closer to having all the tweeters at a similar level. i did this at a friends home and it worked great.
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Besides u know what happens when you have less subs....somehow new ones appear....😈
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Although Mike, eng-399 may see this....I still will argue that your system has the most impressive bass Ive ever experienced.
Eye watering everything shaking cant stop laughing because its so amazing is my description.
Mike gets points for an awesome nearfield that truly represents gunfire as reality...but thats different.
Id replace the driver and simply alter whatever caused the problem....higher hpf or less power etc.
Dont change a thing. Its the standard in bass overkill as far as i know. Ill never forget the first time i saw the cabinets ☺
8 full size fridges
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I had an auto detailing company. I would look for a product that protects only. The cleaning chemicals will dry it out a bit before the protection portion works. Similar to how to polish and wax a car....turtle wax combines cleaner and polish and wax....not as good as separate products.
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In the dsp version gain is set both on the knob and in the dsp settings. Could this be your issue?
Make sure dynamic eq is off, check all dsp settings....no filters etc, no eq to start.
The amp takes what its given you dont set the ohms....if you send 4 it is amping 4...etc
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I say the same thing all the time but it's the room. No doubt a room and setup can work without treatment but imo its the reflections that can destroy a clear centered image. I do not think the speaker matters all that much. When one speaker sounds better in the same room its the room characteristics combined with that speaker, not the speaker. I do acknowledge huge differences in speaker quality and design but dont buy that the speaker makes the difference for imaging. Quality for sure but good centered image is all about room and setup imo.
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Larger subs allow for lower frequencies.
More subs equals better consistency in response throughout the listening area and higher spl.
more larger subs allows for more consistent, deeper response and more spl.
placement is generally best distributed throughout the room, corners tend to be beneficial with 1 or 2 subs, and midpoints of walls...front back or side to side provides better consistency but less reenforcement from surrounding walld...more walls in a corner.
these are generalities but should help you get started
klipsch subs...big difference in quality between the series....r112sw much better than r12sw
best rule is 2 subs is 90% benefit of multiple subs...i.e. 4 subs or 8 subs isnt a huge leap over 2 compared to 2 over 1
buy quality over quantity then add quantity as cash allows
dont buy little subs...nothing under 10 or 12"
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Avsforum currently considers the benq ht2050 the best bargain projector under 1k.
Every projector is a compromise, trading certains benefits for drawbacks. I think garyc pretty much said what i could add. Good post gary.
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They would not be brighter by specs alone. Horn size and ability to point the tweeters where u need them are very important imo. In walls look great but as mentioned by wise poster abive u are stuck once installed so be sure before u install if u go that route. Both can work very well thats why they are both offered.
So in walls look good and sound good but if they point directly ahead in an untreated room may not sound as good as the 160s toed in to the mlp. But if you have sound treatment or furniture well placed then that difference goes away or lessens.
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Subs are not limited in where they go in a room except by furniture. They can be hidden in many places and if u use 2 or more placement flexibility goes up. Sub placement is at least as important as where the mains are.
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Tweeter type is a deep dive, major differences in sound quality, frequency range, dispersion patterns and sensitivity.
Klipsch uses horns, which when well designed -- and Klipsch are -- results in a high sensitivity tweeter capable of excellent controlled dispersion. JBL is another pioneer in horn tweeter designs.
Each type has benefits and drawbacks, what often draws many of us to Klipsch is a very good response, excellent directivity and ability to drive them either with very little power...or, with a lot of power to easily reach reference volumes in theaters. Many of the other designs are not capable of very high volumes or controlled dirctivity. But in other designs many audiophiles prefer the sound over horns.
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Thats a huge upgrade. Congrats i agree a great combo 👍
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craigslist at least in chicago is full of insane idiots asking crazy prices
gets tiring to bother...i guess a few just dont know better but get the sense most are just axxxxxx looking to fleece somebody
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10 hours ago, ACV92 said:
So, I'm looking to add another Umax 15 to the low end. After some checking, I just wanted to be clear that I'm not missing something with the wiring. Currently, I'm running the (1) Umax in series at 4 ohm (DVC 2 ohm) and the amp in bridged mode. So there's no way to get (2) DVC 2 ohm subs to be able to run at 4 ohm bridged, it's either 2 ohm (series/parallel), or 1 ohm (parallel), correct? The manual for the 3000 does not show it can handle a 2 ohm load bridged, it can in stereo, but again, I can't get (1) DVC 2 ohm sub to 2 ohms, just 4 ohm (series) or 1 ohm (parallel), right? So, basically my only option with this amp and (2) DVC 2 ohm subs is to run them at 4 ohm on 2 channels. If so, looks like I'll be looking into a different amp next. Let me know if I'm missing something. Thanks.
That is correct. While I understand that for various reasons everybody wants every last drop of power to go to their subs that last doubling...say 800 to 1600 is just 3db. My subs are all ported, i dont run power past their rms ratings...15s get about 800 and 18s get 1000. Instead i max out the low end with this power and change the hpf and slope to get more bottom end.
If your subs are sealed them i would perhaps agree more power especially with eq...but dont rush to get a 6000. Adding another sub already gets you 3db and if you are doubling the power another 3db. And u are doibling power with the 2 unless you ran the bridged 15 at max all the time. So 6db with the 2nd 15.
Your math is correct. In my case my 15s have 2 4ohm coils so i run them at 2ohm per channel on a 3000dsp...but like i said even though max is supposedly 1500watts each i still use about 800 max. I just have no need for maxing them out. With my 4 subs id guess maxing out would be about 130db. Id guess reference requires maybe 200 or 300watts each....4 subs nets about 10db boost in my room. That comes to 64watts each but wth eq and peaks maybe 2 or 3x that at a few frequencies.
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3 hours ago, vasubandu said:
I don't want attention. I do want information and help. My singular goal is to learn. I want to learn how speaker work on a physical level, I want to learn how to build a good subwoofer, I want to learn if I can accomplish something by doing things differently, I want to learn if Chinese companies make decent audio equipment, I want to learn about box and tube enclosures for subwoofers, but I also want to learn and infinite baffle and open baffle subwoofers, I want to learn if a much larger subwoofer would do the bass what larger woofers did for my audio in general.
I don't want attention in the sense that I so not care what anyone else thinks about me. That was something that my father ingrained in my when I was in junior high (middle school). One day, he said to me, "Son, you are a weirdo. You always have been a weirdo and you always will be a weirdo. The question is whether you are going to be a happy weirdo or a miserable one. And that depends on one thing, whether you care what other people think about you. Because if you care, you are giving them power, and since you are weirdo, they are going to use that power against you." It tool me a while, but I do not recall caring what anyone thought about me unless I decided to. I care what my wife thinks about everything, including me, and I care what my kids think, although they would deny it. I care what a very few of my friends think, and beyond that, I just don't give a ****. That does not mean that I don't care about people because I do. It just means that I define myself and I am not going to let anyone else do it.
So I don't think that you are rude, and I am not offended. I think about what people say, and I adjust my behavior if I think that I should. I am sorry that my posts have affected you that way, and while part of me wants to say then don't read it, another part says that maybe you have a point and I should adjust things. By the way. looking at the list of posts that I started, I see this for February
2/28 Optoma Projectors
2/17 Dilemma about subwoofers
2/10 Followup on subwoofers
2/8 Crazy idea for subwoofers
2/8 Would this work (subwoofers)
2/4 Garage Sale
2/3 Integra question
I don't know if that is too many or not. Now, if you look at January, I was a complete mess. And people told me privately and publicly that I was overdoing it. When looked back at it, I had to agree. I probably could have put all the subwoofer stuff in a single post. I thought I had reasons for new posts, but I don't even remember what they were, so I think I will try to avoid that. I probably do post more than most here but that is because I am at my computer around 16 hours a day, and when something comes in I read it.
Bottom line is that I will consider your post and took it as a comment meant to help me.
I appreciate u taking the time to explain.
For 1000-2000 u can build the top sealed, ported or horn sub. Rivaling or equaling the best money can buy for up to 10k. For some reason you want to be a master builder of speakers but dont want to learn the basics by building something reasonable...instead you are proposing crazy builds nobody does because they dont make sound design sense. Ive said before and wont say again...walk before u run. If you dont really intend to build and are just learning it would be kind of misleading to say you are buying xxx and not really doing it.
If your goal is to learn then ask google questions and every answer you want is there for you. If you want to do a build be realistic pick a known design and ask questions about your specific build.
My 2c.
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Svs are excellent but i find the rp160ms to be far better...but everybody has their own opinions.
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Delete the drivers and go to behringers site and download both. Your laptop should then recognize them.
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Its confusing but r28fs and r26fs are called reference but are in fact a huge step down. I had 28fs and very sloppy sounding compared to true reference. Once the premiere series came out the new reference name replaced icons.
An rf52ii, 62ii or 82ii is the reference line matching the rb81iis. U can find used pairs in great shape very inexpensively. I highly recommend them all...82s are great but huge...i had rf52s and loved them. a great alternative to the bookshelves and if u dont watch many movies the low end is great...specd to 35hz but in room good to 30hz easily. 62s and 82s just larger woofers...nice for midbass but imo not a giant improvement unless a huge room
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Its been at least 10yrs since i had a slurpee..was in 7-11 yesterday and was close but stepped away....figured wouldn't be as good as carls 😎
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General rule of thumb is diameter of the port is minimum distance but youre correct crossing over higher lessens the need and same for not playing at high volumes. If port is say 4 inches 3 should be fine....if its 6 or 7 i would move it out a bit so sound is not colored
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16 minutes ago, avguytx said:
Oh yeah....those things are a given in not setting them back to far as to block the high end. I'm not completely sure how the built-ins will be built just yet but I can work around them. If the new ones only need a few inches behind them, I should be fine with either. Thanks for the input.
happy to give my 2c.
ive heard both and both are excellent.
klipsch does brillant design and the tweeters in the rp series are worthy of being the sucessor to the rb61/rb81
i get excellent response down to the rated frequency range
honestly ive never heard a better bookshelf speaker under 1000per
Short of performance with RP-250S
in Home Theater
Posted
Your room...how far away the walls are, are there open areas etc have a huge impact on surrounds. As i mentioned in the above post you really should test placements. Move them back a foot another foot...forward, up down. It makes a huge difference.