Maximus89
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Posts posted by Maximus89
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Just now, Grizzog said:
I wouldn't say people are against them. There are a lot of members that have those diaphragms. The issue with the titanium mid is that you have to install a bandpass to avoid overlapping frequencies - the phenolic had a natural rolloff so it wasn't originally in the crossover.
Yeah I get that, but I mean most seem to say they are too harsh even after have the bandpass, but the people who like them really seem to love them. Oh well. Only way i'll ever know is if I try it myself.
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19 minutes ago, Grizzog said:
Yep!
So why are people so against titanium mid diaphragms in the Forte I/II, Chorus I/II, Quartets?
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Are these going to use titanium diaphragms for the mids and tweeters? Sorry if it has already been answered a billion times.
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39 minutes ago, bobdit said:
@Maximus89 Have you got the woofers replaced? How does it sound? I am thinking of replacing mine too. Are you planning to sell your good old woofer? Thanks.
bob, I've had them replaced a few months now and to my ears they sound great other than maybe a bit of harshness at loud levels, but that's not an issue with the woofers. I've never heard the original stock RC-7 to compare as I received it with a bad woofer which was my reason for replacing both. They assured me that they tested for use in the RC-7 and I trusted their word. I also think they look aesthetically much better and could match any of the newer line of Klipsch speakers including the new RF-7 III with the black front baffle.
I'm sorry, but I have sold the working original woofer.
The site where I ordered it from has 1 in stock, and more on the way this month. You can send them a message on facebook and they are pretty good at speedy responses.
* They make a note "You may need new slip-on connectors to use in these models. You can request that we send slip-on connectors in the notes section of your order if using for one of these alternate models." I guess I was the first to try it because I brought it to their attention that the original slip on connecter from the RC-7 wires were too small, so do ask them for the proper ones and then you will have to crimp them on yourself.
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/klipsch-1011974-rf-82-mkii-woofer/
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This is the good one which is in excellent condition:
This is from the one with damage to the cabinet and grill:
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nevermind. I'll use Photobucket. One moment please
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I was able to upload the damage but it won't let me upload more photos bc of size
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Houston, Tx. Local pick up only. These will only be up as long as another pair of speakers are out there that I want, but need a bit of cash for. If those sell, I'm taking these off the market.
1 of the speakers has taken a tumble and has slight damage, all drivers working.
Original boxes.
Uploading photos right now...
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Man, I want some RF-7 II's. I'd sell my Chorus II for some RF-7 II's. I just love the aesthetics and i'm sure they sound amazing(actually never even listened to them) and my entire music library is digital so maybe a better match for me than Chorus II? Maybe I won't day dream as much if I upgrade the crossovers in the Chorus II's?
Congrats on your purchase!
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I tried Audyssey on, off, flat and whichever that other option is and I feel each one has a flaw that I don't like. I usually just go pure direct mode, but I only have a JBL ES250P sub and it just doesn't sound good with my Chorus II for music(I've tried it crossed over at 80, 60 and 40hz). Prefer the tight natural bass of the Chorus II on their own. I'm new to all of this so I am still contemplating getting smaller bookshelf speakers to use as L/R in movies with the Marantz SR7007 and just use the Chorus II as stereo with some vintage equipment. But, like is said, i'm new to all of this and I don't know how much of a hassle it is to own and have to service vintage stereos or replace tubes if I went the tube route.
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So this is just the bin and crossovers? No horns and drivers? That's a steal? Crap. How much are Jubilees? For some reason I always figured they were around the same as older K-Horns that go for around 1800 to 2500. Never seen em, never heard em. Ignorance is bliss.
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47 minutes ago, JohnJ said:
Maximus89, I know the tweed multicolors on the previous page seem beveled. Pic on the first page is like silver luster with gold lighting on it, that and the wool cloth seem flush.
The matte black with multicolored grill that looks beveled was maybe an early photoshop using the Forte II and the one from CES is the actual grill which is flush? That's my guess anyway...
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Are those grills beveled like the original or are they flat and flush? Looks flush in some and beveled in others. An option?
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the grills are really thick material. My Fortes weren't like that at all and the badges on both have odd discoloration, any idea how to fix that?
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24 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
Don't try to sand the black out of the curved piece of the risers, you won't find a pretty veneer. If anything, sand it a little bit, and put a fresh coat off black matte spray paint. Trust me, the black curved piece really looks nice between the risers and the cabinets.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
2Yeah..just not my kind of riser. I guess I've got no choice either way. The veneer on the riser I just took off is pretty badly chipped. The speaker looks so much better without that riser, but it's so short without it. In the future, I want to do a riser in the style of the Heresy III but no slant.
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Before:
Congrats on the cabinet looking nicer snooka and on your new crossovers.
I finished one and about to start the other. I really regret not just buying another wood filler to properly fill in the broken off veneer areas. I have 1 full edge band that needs to be replaced and I'll probably go with band-it. I also need to find 10 of the screws that go in the mid horn.
Also need to do the rejuvenating oil, but I'll do that next time I take everything out to do the passive mod of adding 2.5oz and getting Titanium mid Diaphragms and Crites crossovers.
After I sand all the black finish out of the next cabinet and put 1 coat of Danish Oil tonight, I'll move on to the risers. Not sure what to do with them. Getting the black out of the top section is really hard for some reason even with 100 grit sandpaper. I want them to look presentable for now til I can get someone to build custom risers. Wanted to go with all of it sanded raw so I could do the same walnut danish oil, bc that black strip of the riser gives it an outdated look imo.
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1 minute ago, jimjimbo said:
After you are done with the tinted Danish Oil, I would certainly recommend the rejuvenating oil, which is clear and works to feed the wood. After a couple of applications over the course of a day or two, I think you will realize the benefit. Get a small can, and apply a light coat every once in a while.
Okay great, I will check out Home Depot this evening. Will I benefit from using a power buffer? I don't know why I am so anxious to use it.
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Also does anyone have recommendations for an edge band veneer(preferably a stick on) that could fit the Chorus II?
I have 1 edge band veneer that is just way too far gone for me to try and fix with wood filler. Looks hideous and needs to be replaced.***snooka, I really hope you don't mind me posting in your thread instead of creating my own. I was hoping we'd both benefit from 1 thread where we can ask all the questions and get the answers we need in 1 place.***
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34 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
Completely agree. Watco Rejuvenating Oil
Is rejuvenating Oil from Watco necessary for me after recent applications of Watco Danish Oil? It seems like it's more for older furniture. Will it make a difference for me?
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3 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
Wow, that looks like walnut, throw an oil on that and it will look amazing
Yep! I used Watco Danish Oil in Medium Walnut.
Thats only the 2nd coat which I just applied. I'm going to wet sand the next coat and I think I'll stop there.
is there anything I can put on after that I can buffer and make it look beautiful smooth satin?
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1 down. 1 to go. Plus the risers. Don't know if I'm just going to refinish them black and see if I like that, otherwise I'd rather leave them without risers until I can find someone to build custom risers(I hate the risers on these models. Way too cheap 80s furniture looking.)
the wood filler i used was too dry and didn't stay on and it dried really white. I'm hoping a walnut paint marker will paint over it to match.
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very nice!
Hey Snooka, I decided to get all the drivers out now to start sanding tomorrow. My only experience was with a center channel. If you haven't already done it, removing the 15-inch woofer is tricky, it's very heavy. I did it while the speaker was standing, but there's got to be a better way because it almost slipped out of my hands. I imagine it's slightly easier to lay the speaker down to put the woofer in, but i don't know about removing it.
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32 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
To make faded woofers/passive radiators look like new, you can use duplicolor's vinyl and fabric black spray paint from an auto parts store.
Wow, really? Very interesting. Figured anything wet was a no-no.
Do you have photos of your newly reconed passive?
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57 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
I've found the screws for the mid-range drivers at my local ace hardware store. As far as the passive radiators, simply speakers in Tampa Florida or Midwest speakers in Minnesota (?) can recone the passive for you. I'm awaiting both of my passive radiators from Midwest speakers.
Good to know, thank you. I'll check out ACE or Lowes.
Getting the passive reconed will be with different materials? Will it be obvious that the stock will be different looking from the reconed one?
Can RF-82 II woofer fit an RC-7?
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Sounds like a good deal. I would have jumped on that a few months ago bc I wanted RC-7 for surrounds and use a closer match in extended heritage up front with my Chorus II, but I'm happy with my 1 RC-7 center and i'm looking into either upgrades for my Chorus II or getting Quartets for surrounds.
Good luck with your sale!