Maximus89
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Posts posted by Maximus89
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5 minutes ago, Peter P. said:
I can't answer to all the issues, but I will make suggestions on some.
Regarding the paint removal OF THE DRIVERS: You'll have to use a paint stripper. Try the "safer" strippers first; those that are environmentally friendly, such as Citristrip Safer Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel. Brush some on the hidden side of the horn as a test and see how it reacts; sometimes multiple applications are necessary to remove multiple coats of paint. They sell plastic paint scrapers that would be perfect to scrape the softened paint off the drivers without scratching the horn.
Try the paint stripper on an inconspicuous part of the cabinet such as the bottom, to see if it raises the grain of the wood. If not, apply the Citristrip, and after using the plastic scraper to remove the bulk of the white paint, use a pad of #1 steelwool, in the direction of the grain, to remove the paint.
The full strength strippers that contain methyl chloride may be too strong for the plastic.
If the Citristrip reacts with the backside horn plastic, then I would give up on removing the paint and just try to sand smooth the existing finish.
Paint on the cabinets, as you've seen, looks like crap. Use spray paint. Spray paint will preserve the look of the grain better than a rolled on finish. Don't use a brush; as you can see the results...
Of course, the litmus test on the drivers is to play music through them. As long as sound is coming out of the driver and there are no usual buzzes or sounds, you're good, as are the crossovers. You could put a voltmeter across the speaker terminals and measure the resistance of the driver. It should be within 1 or 2 ohms of what's stamped on the driver.
Oh, and you better post photos of the finished speakers!
How am i supposed to see the grain of the wood? It's a black ..duratex i guess?
I was already looking at the Citristrip stripper so i'll go with that one.
Any recommended spray paints? Different one for the cabinets and a different one for the horns?
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So last night I made a great deal where I came home with 4 La Scala Split Industrials. 1 of the pairs just fine and already hooked up. The other pair are fixer uppers that he basically just threw in.
Here's what is 100% certain according to the previous owner and what I can see.
- 4 total Fuses + 4 Fuse Caps are needed.- 1 Tweeter diaphragm needed(paint got deep in there).
Everything else is unknown to me and unknown to the previous owner. I've never owned any La Scalas or any industrial Klipsch speakers, so I need guidance if driver removal is beyond simply unscrewing the front of the top and sliding it out and unscrewing the bottom of the bass bin and sliding it out. Tutorials on process of removing everything?
Not sure how I test each driver for functionality and testing the crossover other than manually swapping out with the good pair in my house(seems like there's got to be an easier way). I'm not savvy at this stuff. But, making sure I know what parts need to be replaced is my first priority.
From there, I obviously need to remove the white paint(Church?) that is depressingly all over the horns and tweeter.
Tips for removal? Just any stripper will do? Metal or plastic scraper?
Then from there, how do I go about painting it? Spray paint? Brush? What type and color? What material are these?
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is that a good price for that condition and AL-3 crossover? He says the AL-3 xo was put in 7 years ago.
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Could the parts from a Heresy pro fit right into a Heresy 1 cabinet? What about the crossover cup?
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Sounds like a good deal. I would have jumped on that a few months ago bc I wanted RC-7 for surrounds and use a closer match in extended heritage up front with my Chorus II, but I'm happy with my 1 RC-7 center and i'm looking into either upgrades for my Chorus II or getting Quartets for surrounds.
Good luck with your sale!
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Just now, Grizzog said:
I wouldn't say people are against them. There are a lot of members that have those diaphragms. The issue with the titanium mid is that you have to install a bandpass to avoid overlapping frequencies - the phenolic had a natural rolloff so it wasn't originally in the crossover.
Yeah I get that, but I mean most seem to say they are too harsh even after have the bandpass, but the people who like them really seem to love them. Oh well. Only way i'll ever know is if I try it myself.
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19 minutes ago, Grizzog said:
Yep!
So why are people so against titanium mid diaphragms in the Forte I/II, Chorus I/II, Quartets?
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Are these going to use titanium diaphragms for the mids and tweeters? Sorry if it has already been answered a billion times.
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39 minutes ago, bobdit said:
@Maximus89 Have you got the woofers replaced? How does it sound? I am thinking of replacing mine too. Are you planning to sell your good old woofer? Thanks.
bob, I've had them replaced a few months now and to my ears they sound great other than maybe a bit of harshness at loud levels, but that's not an issue with the woofers. I've never heard the original stock RC-7 to compare as I received it with a bad woofer which was my reason for replacing both. They assured me that they tested for use in the RC-7 and I trusted their word. I also think they look aesthetically much better and could match any of the newer line of Klipsch speakers including the new RF-7 III with the black front baffle.
I'm sorry, but I have sold the working original woofer.
The site where I ordered it from has 1 in stock, and more on the way this month. You can send them a message on facebook and they are pretty good at speedy responses.
* They make a note "You may need new slip-on connectors to use in these models. You can request that we send slip-on connectors in the notes section of your order if using for one of these alternate models." I guess I was the first to try it because I brought it to their attention that the original slip on connecter from the RC-7 wires were too small, so do ask them for the proper ones and then you will have to crimp them on yourself.
http://reconingspeakers.com/product/klipsch-1011974-rf-82-mkii-woofer/
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This is the good one which is in excellent condition:
This is from the one with damage to the cabinet and grill:
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nevermind. I'll use Photobucket. One moment please
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I was able to upload the damage but it won't let me upload more photos bc of size
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Houston, Tx. Local pick up only. These will only be up as long as another pair of speakers are out there that I want, but need a bit of cash for. If those sell, I'm taking these off the market.
1 of the speakers has taken a tumble and has slight damage, all drivers working.
Original boxes.
Uploading photos right now...
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Man, I want some RF-7 II's. I'd sell my Chorus II for some RF-7 II's. I just love the aesthetics and i'm sure they sound amazing(actually never even listened to them) and my entire music library is digital so maybe a better match for me than Chorus II? Maybe I won't day dream as much if I upgrade the crossovers in the Chorus II's?
Congrats on your purchase!
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I tried Audyssey on, off, flat and whichever that other option is and I feel each one has a flaw that I don't like. I usually just go pure direct mode, but I only have a JBL ES250P sub and it just doesn't sound good with my Chorus II for music(I've tried it crossed over at 80, 60 and 40hz). Prefer the tight natural bass of the Chorus II on their own. I'm new to all of this so I am still contemplating getting smaller bookshelf speakers to use as L/R in movies with the Marantz SR7007 and just use the Chorus II as stereo with some vintage equipment. But, like is said, i'm new to all of this and I don't know how much of a hassle it is to own and have to service vintage stereos or replace tubes if I went the tube route.
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So this is just the bin and crossovers? No horns and drivers? That's a steal? Crap. How much are Jubilees? For some reason I always figured they were around the same as older K-Horns that go for around 1800 to 2500. Never seen em, never heard em. Ignorance is bliss.
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47 minutes ago, JohnJ said:
Maximus89, I know the tweed multicolors on the previous page seem beveled. Pic on the first page is like silver luster with gold lighting on it, that and the wool cloth seem flush.
The matte black with multicolored grill that looks beveled was maybe an early photoshop using the Forte II and the one from CES is the actual grill which is flush? That's my guess anyway...
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Are those grills beveled like the original or are they flat and flush? Looks flush in some and beveled in others. An option?
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the grills are really thick material. My Fortes weren't like that at all and the badges on both have odd discoloration, any idea how to fix that?
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24 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
Don't try to sand the black out of the curved piece of the risers, you won't find a pretty veneer. If anything, sand it a little bit, and put a fresh coat off black matte spray paint. Trust me, the black curved piece really looks nice between the risers and the cabinets.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
2Yeah..just not my kind of riser. I guess I've got no choice either way. The veneer on the riser I just took off is pretty badly chipped. The speaker looks so much better without that riser, but it's so short without it. In the future, I want to do a riser in the style of the Heresy III but no slant.
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Before:
Congrats on the cabinet looking nicer snooka and on your new crossovers.
I finished one and about to start the other. I really regret not just buying another wood filler to properly fill in the broken off veneer areas. I have 1 full edge band that needs to be replaced and I'll probably go with band-it. I also need to find 10 of the screws that go in the mid horn.
Also need to do the rejuvenating oil, but I'll do that next time I take everything out to do the passive mod of adding 2.5oz and getting Titanium mid Diaphragms and Crites crossovers.
After I sand all the black finish out of the next cabinet and put 1 coat of Danish Oil tonight, I'll move on to the risers. Not sure what to do with them. Getting the black out of the top section is really hard for some reason even with 100 grit sandpaper. I want them to look presentable for now til I can get someone to build custom risers. Wanted to go with all of it sanded raw so I could do the same walnut danish oil, bc that black strip of the riser gives it an outdated look imo.
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1 minute ago, jimjimbo said:
After you are done with the tinted Danish Oil, I would certainly recommend the rejuvenating oil, which is clear and works to feed the wood. After a couple of applications over the course of a day or two, I think you will realize the benefit. Get a small can, and apply a light coat every once in a while.
Okay great, I will check out Home Depot this evening. Will I benefit from using a power buffer? I don't know why I am so anxious to use it.
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Also does anyone have recommendations for an edge band veneer(preferably a stick on) that could fit the Chorus II?
I have 1 edge band veneer that is just way too far gone for me to try and fix with wood filler. Looks hideous and needs to be replaced.***snooka, I really hope you don't mind me posting in your thread instead of creating my own. I was hoping we'd both benefit from 1 thread where we can ask all the questions and get the answers we need in 1 place.***
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34 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
Completely agree. Watco Rejuvenating Oil
Is rejuvenating Oil from Watco necessary for me after recent applications of Watco Danish Oil? It seems like it's more for older furniture. Will it make a difference for me?
La Scala Splits Restoration
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I'm not quite sure what's going on with the fuses....are they not necesarry? I can basically connect the positive and negative to a receiver and they will start playing? I was under the impression that i cant get any sound unless i get those fuses. Is this correct? If so, i can go plug them in and listen to see if all the drivers are working.
I guess if that's the case, i'd still like to know what the purpose of the fuses are.