hogwylde09

The very reason I am a firm believer in tube stand alone amps. Mono blocks or 2 channel power amps. Then the all important preamplifier with tone controls. Even use the loudness contour on my McIntosh C20 and couple of Heathkit SP-2. My 1961 CW pair absolutely knock the socks off with a Dynaco ST-70 and any tube preamp I have. H H Scott 130, Heathkit SP-2 (2) PAS 2 un-modded. The Aric Audio unlimited has less bass, no tone controls.

No words, just thought I’d post this pic.

Wasn’t via “Garage Sale” per this forum. But instead was contacted by a member that has attended many Pilgrimage. And most likely a member of this Forum. Scammed for $300.00. My own fault for sending funds via PayPal F&F. This person knew I wanted the CF4 horn drivers won as a Pilgrimage door prize a few years back. Contacted me on Messenger. Money sent then plainly ignored. I won’t mention names unless the great people I’ve met in Hope and GP need this information. Oh well, screw it. Name is shown in the photos.

I’ve certainly seen cleaner chassis. You don’t have a fortune invested at your purchase price. Certainly do have this completely rebuilt and at least IBAM for individual output tube bias. Just my 10-c-

The resistance measures in the high 5 ohm range, reason I raised the question. If anyone knows what impedance specs were during the time period of their manufacture. I’ve read CW came in 4 and 8 ohm. In the back of my mind I believe I’ve read that.

In the kitchen, dining room for initial listening. Holy crap. Also having,Klipschhorns Belles, CF4’S, CF3’s, KLF30’s. (the kg5.5’s found a new owner yesterday). It’s getting difficult to judge the “TOP DAWG” now. May just be the room dimensions. And the way they disperse into the longer area.

Added more Heritage to the collection. According to the seller @Arno 1961 Cornwalls. Brought my Fluke 77 with me for resistance measurements. Total impedance at speaker terminals measured a little over 5 ohms with a small deviation from one speaker to the other. i was able to narrow it down to the K77 in one enclosure. One ohm’d around 13 while the other closer to 8. But no sign of distortion or other side effects. They sound terrific in fact. At one point, I was told the cabinets painted blue. And that was over white. The backs are still blue. While that doesn’t bother me, what does is the fact, the factory tags have been painted over. The only solution to trying to remove paint to make them legible again without destroying them altogether would be trying to carefully scrape lightly with a razor blade. If anyone has better suggestions, I’m all ears. Also would anybody know if 4 or 8 ohm during this time period? I will add some photos, reduced size with my iPhone later.

Can’t get link copied and pasted....

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Thanks @henry4841MC 30’s pushing CF4’S back wall, MC 75’s on the Belles.

Personally I believe a ST-70 is worth putting a good notched plate GZ-34 in. Sometimes can pick up a decent used Hammond labeled. Of course does not have to be notched plate. I have picked up some Valvo NOS a bit cheaper then Mullard, Amperex, etc.

Now if I could only be as lucky. I’m missing one also. Also think the factory copyright one looks better.

Ok, so finally got a little spare time. Someone has been in these before. Wires are labeled. And some type of dampening material throughout the box. What is this stuff? And the glue there now look redone at some point? I put blue painters tape around the back, pushed into the seam a bit, just in case the Gorilla Wood Glue tries to seep through. One top, from a corner, to maybe half way down same side all that was loose. That’s the area I focused on now. Will see how it holds. Found the 12” driver mounting screws loose as well. I don’t like skimping, but I’ve too many irons in the fire atm.

Sick of hearing the greats leaving us. Jim McCarty once got pissed, thought Tim was playing too much “lead” on bass. RIP Tim B.

Trying to do the math. Guess it doesn’t matter much..it was October 1970 IIRC Sam Houston Colosseum. First concert of my life. Mom took my best friend and myself. Black Sabbath opened. They were good. From our balcony box seats situated stage left, just perfect to see the largest guitar slinger I’d ever seen waddle up the steps to the stage. It was Leslie West. Needless to say Mountain did headline for a reason. That evening in this huge venue Mountain blew Sabbath back across the pond. I could write a short novel about everything from that night. I will remember it well etched into my brain! RIP big man Leslie. You’re playing style and vibrato is timeless and incredible. Oh, and the Marshall’s not arriving, leaving borrowed Sunn Colosseum Leads. Yes I was there.

Thanks to all for suggestions and photos. At the moment I’m in no rush to repair these. I still have @avguytx 3’s. My main concern either leaving all intact, just adding glue than knocking the panel out. With examining pics of just how little glue these left the factory, not too worried now. Didn’t know what can of worms I’d open. Bits and pieces of back and sides stuck together here and there. I think I will add the extra Oak reinforcement and screws. Excellent to know the front baffles are removable as well.

Thanks @EpicKlipschFan sounds like a plan. After digging back into the Epic threads I also found the info. Might as well do some crossover and port extension work at the very least while down.

@RandyH000 so I could remove the drivers, crossover, sound absorption foam then apply the glue around the perimeter of the back. From the inside? If so and the whole panel is still very much intact would I still need clamps or weight?

I found out during a living room remodel of sorts so let me explain while keeping it short and to the point. Moved all the big gear out to paint. I had the MC75’s driving Belles up front and Dynaco ST-70 on the rear CF4’S. C20 pre. Since the main sound imaging comes from the front I didn’t notice too much about the rear. I threw together a temporary fresh rebuild Fisher 400 and the CF4’S when I noticed the cabinet rattle. I’m much better with a soldering iron than woodworking. How do I approach removing the back from one has about 1/2 side maybe midway loose glue? I have KLF30’s that get little use, but took a pounding before I got them. No glue problems with them. I don’t think I’ve read the CF series have this? Ver. 3 or 4

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Klipschorns high sensitivity requires a deserving preamp with tone controls. That was the bottom line for taming the upper frequencies in my case. I tried Melose 110b, rolled many 6DJ8 varieties. Then tried my Aric Audio Unlimited with Telefunken 12AU7’s better. But still not quite there. In desperation pulled out the Dynaco PAS 2. NOW, getting somewhere. Bound and determined to make them work with the MC30’s I bought and rebuilt for my birthday present to myself last month. I knew damn well if these speakers could sound so good with a Marantz 2220b I had just completed a rebuild, I had to make them work with my 30’s. Because the 2220b sounded remarkably good even with the tone controls straight up 12:00. BTW, I have a McIntosh C20 preamp/MC75 mono’s/Belle Klipsch L and R front/CF4’S L & R rear (those driven with a Dynaco ST-70). I rely on the bass, treble and loudness contour heavily on that C20. IMHO There is no perfect room, treatment nor magic fairy dust capacitors, cables etc. for fixing a “bright” speakers’ with horns. I’m hooked on Klipsch Heritage, Epic, Legend and some of the kg series. Just not straight wire gain. Must have tone controls OR room Correlation. As in the Jubes. I don’t know why preamplifier manufacturers have all gone that way. At least I have never found one that worked for me. Last but not least, I am not going to say none are out there, CJ, AR and other high end preamps must be doing something right as they get high praises. But also look at the “other” brands of speakers they are usually pair with. YMMV I am a faithful Klipsch Fanatic and will remain the way. And have found what works for MY tastes. Have a great day gents, I’m going to turn on some music. Loud music! Jimmy

For a total black silent background, I had resort to something better. If you are handy with a soldering iron and a bit creative. Look at the CNC MM for moving magnet or the other MC phono amplifier. Boards available already assembled or DIY. Lots of threads about it on Audiokarma. Phone stage in my C-20 just too much noise. Tube rolling helped but didn’t get me there