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Everything posted by geoff.

  1. @Westcoastdrums, I resurrected an old PM, last time we spoke you were sharing a cache of Klipsch speakers from a closed cinema with the community for a song.
  2. @John kal, those are nice speakers and a damn fair price with those “upgrades”, ESPECIALLY up here. That’s like a minimum $400 CDN upgrade after exchange, shipping and duty. About what you will spend on gas to see them, lol. But you may find them a little “bright”. Some serious solid state watts will excite the woofers to be sure. Where are you located and what speakers and amp are you using now?
  3. I immediately noticed the the red and black, in and out leads to the autoformer. That just makes sense. Not choking the capacitors with tightened zip ties makes sense too.
  4. Question? What value cap would I shunt across the woofer If I wanted cross at 400hz using the 2.4mH inductor in series? And would I need to change the polarity of any drivers?
  5. There is an ALK B crossover schematic floating around somewhere. I bet it would be worth a try in these.
  6. Pictures man, for posterity. ...plus, I can’t be the only one curious as to their looks
  7. @Tanner., where are you located? If you are up for a project, keep your eyes peeled for Klipsch Pro gear, something packing the K-48 woofers would not fail to please.
  8. ...you will never know until you try it for yourself, have fun! Besides, your room accounts for as much of what you hear as your speakers. And where you sit in relation to the room’s effect. But as mentioned, just don’t fry your amp.
  9. ...that is a project, not a “set of history” too many red flags on the deal, for me and I love red flags, painting them yellow, and then ignoring them
  10. Well that’s a check mark in all the right boxes! Passive, so the bass comes on strong right out of the gate? You don’t need to goose it to get it thumping.
  11. Very interesting! What’s in the sauce?
  12. Wow, thanks Mike. I was not aware of the effect the tweeter filter has on the squawker as a voltage divider when it comes off of the same capacitor, until now.
  13. Hello @Ap112233 and welcome to the forum. Was there a particular model you were looking at trying? The bass impact from your RF7s will be tough to match from most speakers with less than a 15” woofer. But once you hear the midrange (truth) from a Klipsch 3-way you may find it hard to live without. Ideally you would find a pair you are interested in and listen to them with familiar source material and let your own ears decide.
  14. Should the last capacitor before the tweeter in a constant K crossover be changed to three times the value of the first? For instance, the AA crossover would have a 2uF capacitor and the second 2uF capacitor would be replaced with a 6uF (or better). I have seen several posts over the years, the oldest by ALK, stating it is prudent to do this but it doesn’t seem to be “driven home”. Is that because it is common knowledge to most? I am in the process of recapping/cloning some crossovers and this just ran through my head.
  15. ...just don't call me cracker, I prefer the term "Saltine-American"
  16. @bribassguy, the A/4500 crosses from the woofer at 400(-ish) hz to the K-400/401 in a Klipschorn, La Scala, maybe a Belle. The mid driver in a Cornwall will be very unhappy about trying to cross that low instead of 600hz to the K-600/601. It has to do with the size of the horn. Larger horns can safely cross lower.
  17. There are different schools of thought on the 68uF cap. I think you are leaning towards an electrolytic(100V), as was originally used. Some suggest a film and foil in that value as well. The ones I see are rated 250V or 400V. I always found it odd that the driver that gets the most power has the lowest rated capacitor. You could parallel two 33uF electrolytics for a higher rating too. Klipsch does that very thing in the Khorns and La Scala crossovers. Something I read recently on here suggested always using the same values (ie. 33 + 33) when paralleling capacitors though. That jibes with my OCD. Another post suggested reversing the orientation of one of the paralleled caps as well. Something to do with the construction of the capacitor. Don’t forget the 2 x 2uF caps for the tweeter circuit. And if you have not soldered much, even if you have, leave the leads as long as they come so you don’t “fry” the guts of the capacitors when you are soldering them. Heat is the number one killer of capacitors.
  18. Where's the "holy f...!" emoji on this thing?
  19. There was another post I bumped shortly after this one, so I could find it in “my activity streams”, “content I posted in” and it has disappeared, like a witness for... Anyway, it was started by ALK, and another member had just posted some plots after I bumped it. I hope he’s ok!
  20. Is there a way to change the woofer filter on the AL-3 to 400hz? The AK-3 woofer filter uses a 4mH inductor and two 50uF caps instead of the two 68uF caps in the AL-3. The FH-1 bin does go 100hz or more higher than the La Scala so maybe there is something there as well. Did you try your A/4500 crossover on them? Just don’t crank it if you keep the K-77s in the mix.
  21. Is that a Super MWM? Fibreglass, no less? (bump)
  22. 200 ohm, 25 watt I think it says in the schematic on the second page of this thread. You should take a screen shot of that schematic, or otherwise save it, as things seem to randomly disappear on here, lol.
  23. Does anybody know where you can get them now? I believe I read in another post this week that the supplier, has stopped supplying.
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